Buck Mason’s newest t-shirt design demonstrates that vintage military uniforms are an endless source of inspiration for menswear.

Technically speaking, all t-shirts are based on military-issue undershirts from the early 20th century. But Buck Mason referenced the specific knit of a US Army “skivvy tee” invented a hundred years ago for the brand’s new Sidewinder Rib Ringer Tee.

a man in a green buck mason t-shirt
The Sidewinder Rib Ringer Tee goes through a double dying process, creating a sun-faded texture.
Buck Mason

History of skivvy tees

The original design was made from a rib-knit wool that provided breathability and moisture regulation. It was meant to be a base layer to help soldiers regulate body temperature in a wide range of climates. When it got too hot, servicemen would remove their uniforms down to that base layer, and the modern t-shirt was born.

By WWII, the wool ribbed knit was replaced with cotton jersey fabrics, which remain the standard for tees to this day. While jersey knits have benefits like a soft texture and easy production, some features were lost when ribbed fabrics were abandoned.