Welcome to Watches You Should Know, a biweekly column highlighting important or little-known watches with interesting backstories and unexpected influence. This week: the Rolex Military Submariner.

If the Rolex Submariner is the most famous dive watch, then the Rolex Military Submariner, or MilSub, is the most famous military-issued dive watch. What is now a highly sought after piece of watch history — and one of the rarest collector’s watches ever — was once merely Ministry of Defense (MOD) standard issue equipment.

The Brits were one of the early militaries to use divers for offensive purposes during wartime, complementing ongoing recon and defensive missions. Coming out of WWII, the MOD realized a robust and reliable dive watch would be absolutely necessary for diving units. At the time, Rolex was the clear leader in waterproof watch technology, catching the attention of the MOD and marking the first appearance of a military-issued Submariner.

Around 1957, when the MOD was ready to commit to the Submariner, Rolex was several years and several upgraded references into the Submariner’s history. The 6538, which would become known as the Bond Submariner for its time on Sean Connery’s wrist, was made into a MOD-spec version, the A/6538.

HQ Milton

According to Mike Wood, one of the world’s preeminent collectors and authorities on MilSubs, the MOD required certain features that would differentiate the civilian and military Subs: fixed bars, requiring a nylon strap and ensuring the watch case isn’t leaving your person without an arm attached to it; a larger bezel, allowing gloved divers more gripping power; and a bezel material of German silver (a copper alloy not containing silver), which would typically dent upon impact, versus cracking or breaking.

The factory-installed dials with luminescent markers powered by radium had to be re-lumed by MOD watchmakers due to their unsafe radioactive levels. Tritium was used for the re-lume, signified by a circled “T” above the depth rating — making this likely the only vintage watch worth just as much or more with a re-finished dial.

It seemed as though the beefed up Submariner was to receive its own reference number, 6540, given the amount of modifications, but, likely due to the small production run, the reference defaulted to A/6538. In fact, documented examples show a crossed-out “6540” stamped inside of the casebacks, with “A/6538” stamped alongside.

HQ Milton

After the Omega Seamaster served MOD divers from 1967 to 1971 as the issued watch of choice, the MOD approached Rolex and asked that they produce a reference 5513 Submariner with some of the same modifications found on the Omega. What resulted was three different MilSubs: the 5513, the 5517, and a double-stamped 5513/5517. All examples were to leave the factory with the MOD specs: fixed bars, the tritium “T” on the dial, sword hands, and a 60-minute bezel, which has a hash mark for each of the 60 minutes versus the first 15 minutes on your average diver.

However, over time, many MilSub examples have felt the effects of time and are often found with replaced parts, i.e., Mercedes hands or the standard bezel — a product of servicing. In other cases, the mismatched parts are a sign of an untrustworthy seller pawning off a “Frankenwatch” to naive buyers.

While the three 5513-based MilSubs are very similar, their subtle differences are based on markings and date of release. The early 1970s saw the release of the 5513 MilSub, which, as you can guess, is stamped with a 5513 between the lugs. As the mid-70s wore on, the 5513/5517 began production, adding a small 5517 marking on the backside of one of the lugs — hence the term “double-stamped”. Finally, the most sought-after reference, the 5517, followed the 5513/5517 and replaced the 5513 marking between the 12:00 lugs to simply read “5517.” Clear as mud, right?

HQ Milton

The MilSub is one of the priciest vintage Rolex watches, the result of having serious military provenance combined with such low production numbers. All told, from 1971 through 1979, only about 1,200 MilSubs were issued, of which an estimated 180 or so still exist today. Regardless of whether it’s a 5513, 5513/5517, or 5517, purchasing a MilSub takes patience, lots of research, a trustworthy seller, and a healthy bank account. In good condition and with documentation, don’t be surprised to see a MilSub fetch six figures. That’s a lot of coin for a modified Submariner that can only be worn on a nylon strap.

Trying to understand the MilSub from an outsider’s perspective, the high prices and obsessive collectors may seem odd, maybe even ridiculous. But after digging into the details, the picture gets somewhat clearer; the history is there, and it’s nothing short of impressive. Over a short span, MilSubs provided a clear link between watchmaking and world history. As the existing examples get lost with time, the link slowly fades away with them. So, you know what? Forget the Queen. God save the remaining MilSubs.

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READ ABOUT THE BEST GYM SHORTS

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TaoTronics LED Desk Lamp

TaoTronics amazon.com

$17 OFF (28%)

This desk lamp is packed with features that will make you wonder how you lived without it. Aside from its lighting, it utilizes RavPower’s groundbreaking HyperAir technology for ultra-fast wireless charging and has a USB port for any other devices you might have. 

READ HOW TO WINTERIZE YOUR BEDROOM

<a class="clickable-image-link clickable-image-embed-item clickable-image-product-link" href="https://go.skimresources.com?id=31959X896062&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.hydroflask.com%2F32-oz-wide-mouth%3Fcolor%3Dspearmint&xcust=deal-gallery" target="_blank" data-vars-ga-product-sem3-brand="" data-vars-ga-product-sem3-category="" data-vars-ga-product-brand="" data-desturl="https://go.skimresources.com?id=31959X896062&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.hydroflask.com%2F32-oz-wide-mouth%3Fcolor%3Dspearmint&xcust=deal-gallery" data-id="" data-order="15" data-vars-ga-product-price="$31.00" data-vars-ga-product-id="1d95cc53-e5ec-4453-b474-b4f6f985dd7a" data-vars-ga-media-role="" data-vars-ga-product-sem3-id="" data-vars-ga-outbound-link="https://go.skimresources.com?id=31959X896062&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.hydroflask.com%2F32-oz-wide-mouth%3Fcolor%3Dspearmint&xcust=deal-gallery" aria-label="$31 $45 Hydro Flask 32-ounce Wide Mouth Bottle”>

Hydro Flask 32-ounce Wide Mouth Bottle

$14 OFF (31%)

Hydro Flask really needs no introduction at this point, so when you can get a 32-ounce wide mouth with its Temp-Shield insulation at 31 percent off, you do it.

READ ABOUT THE BEST WATER BOTTLES

<a class="clickable-image-link clickable-image-embed-item clickable-image-product-link" href="https://go.skimresources.com?id=31959X896062&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.bodum.com%2Fus%2Fen%2F1928-57-chambord%3F___store%3Dus_en&xcust=deal-gallery" target="_blank" data-vars-ga-product-sem3-brand="bodum" data-vars-ga-product-sem3-category="" data-vars-ga-product-brand="bodum" data-desturl="https://go.skimresources.com?id=31959X896062&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.bodum.com%2Fus%2Fen%2F1928-57-chambord%3F___store%3Dus_en&xcust=deal-gallery" data-id="" data-order="16" data-vars-ga-product-price="$23.99" data-vars-ga-product-id="426d6f99-cdf3-4a95-84d7-4e7f11a0059b" data-vars-ga-media-role="" data-vars-ga-product-sem3-id="" data-vars-ga-outbound-link="https://go.skimresources.com?id=31959X896062&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.bodum.com%2Fus%2Fen%2F1928-57-chambord%3F___store%3Dus_en&xcust=deal-gallery" aria-label="$24 $40 Bodum Chambord French Press”>

Bodum Chambord French Press

bodum skimresources.com

$16 OFF (40%)

Making more coffee from home now? So are we. Ditch the Mr. Coffee and unlock all the flavor your freshly roasted beans have to offer with a french press. It is super simple to use and really does make exceptional coffee. 

READ ABOUT THE BEST COFFEES OF 2021

<a class="clickable-image-link clickable-image-embed-item clickable-image-product-link" href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087XBR564?linkCode=ogi" target="_blank" data-vars-ga-product-sem3-brand="Stasher" data-vars-ga-product-sem3-category="" data-vars-ga-product-brand="Stasher" data-desturl="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087XBR564?linkCode=ogi" data-id="" data-order="17" data-vars-ga-product-price="$39.50" data-vars-ga-product-id="0c1b2ce7-432d-4fea-b1d1-5899cb3e1935" data-vars-ga-media-role="" data-vars-ga-product-sem3-id="" data-vars-ga-outbound-link="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087XBR564" aria-label="$40 $50 Stasher Reusable Storage Bag 4-Pack” data-affiliate=”true”>

Stasher Reusable Storage Bag 4-Pack

Stasher amazon.com

$10 OFF (20%)

Stasher bags are one of our favorite alternatives to single-use plastic wrap and bags. They keep your food fresh, contain no BPA and are dishwasher and microwave safe. Plus, you can also use them for marinades or sous vide thanks to their Pinch-Loc seal. 

READ ABOUT KITCHEN ESSENTIALS

<a class="clickable-image-link clickable-image-embed-item clickable-image-product-link" href="https://click.linksynergy.com/deeplink?id=MUr5DrdBLP0&mid=44880&murl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.fully.com%2Ffully-desk-chair.html" target="_blank" data-vars-ga-product-sem3-brand="" data-vars-ga-product-sem3-category="" data-vars-ga-product-brand="" data-desturl="https://click.linksynergy.com/deeplink?id=MUr5DrdBLP0&mid=44880&murl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.fully.com%2Ffully-desk-chair.html" data-id="" data-order="18" data-vars-ga-product-price="$249.00" data-vars-ga-product-id="52e96ad1-9c5a-4e23-9160-6f7b11491e28" data-vars-ga-media-role="" data-vars-ga-product-sem3-id="" data-vars-ga-outbound-link="https://click.linksynergy.com/deeplink?id=MUr5DrdBLP0&mid=44880&murl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.fully.com%2Ffully-desk-chair.html" aria-label="$249 $299 Fully Desk Chair”>

Fully Desk Chair

linksynergy.com

$50 OFF (17%)

This is our pick for the best big and tall office chair, but that doesn’t mean it won’t work for those of us that are more vertically challenged. The ergonomics on this chair are excellent, ensuring that you stay comfortable for the long haul. 

READ ABOUT THE BEST OFFICE CHAIRS OF 2021

<a class="clickable-image-link clickable-image-embed-item clickable-image-product-link" href="https://go.skimresources.com?id=31959X896062&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.thenorthface.com%2Fshop%2Fmens-thermoball-eco-hoodie-nf0a3y3m-c1%3FvariationId%3DZU3&xcust=deal-gallery" target="_blank" data-vars-ga-product-sem3-brand="" data-vars-ga-product-sem3-category="" data-vars-ga-product-brand="" data-desturl="https://go.skimresources.com?id=31959X896062&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.thenorthface.com%2Fshop%2Fmens-thermoball-eco-hoodie-nf0a3y3m-c1%3FvariationId%3DZU3&xcust=deal-gallery" data-id="" data-order="19" data-vars-ga-product-price="$132.00" data-vars-ga-product-id="324e6b3e-332f-47b2-83a3-dac633553c1e" data-vars-ga-media-role="" data-vars-ga-product-sem3-id="" data-vars-ga-outbound-link="https://go.skimresources.com?id=31959X896062&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.thenorthface.com%2Fshop%2Fmens-thermoball-eco-hoodie-nf0a3y3m-c1%3FvariationId%3DZU3&xcust=deal-gallery" aria-label="$132 $220 The North Face ThermoBall Eco Hoodie”>

The North Face ThermoBall Eco Hoodie

$88 OFF (40%)

A midweight insulated jacket is a must-have in every outdoor enthusiast’s wardrobe. This one from The North Face is packed with features, including a DWR finish to fend off light rain, post-consumer recycled insulation and is packable for easy stowing (or for use as a travel pillow). 

READ ABOUT THE BEST SYNTHETIC DOWN JACKETS

<a class="clickable-image-link clickable-image-embed-item clickable-image-product-link" href="https://go.skimresources.com?id=31959X896062&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fshop.lululemon.com%2Fp%2Fmen-ss-tops%2FMetal-Vent-Tech-Short-Sleeve-Two-MD%2F_%2Fprod9661026%3Fcolor%3D46873%26sz%3DM&xcust=deal-gallery" target="_blank" data-vars-ga-product-sem3-brand="" data-vars-ga-product-sem3-category="" data-vars-ga-product-brand="" data-desturl="https://go.skimresources.com?id=31959X896062&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fshop.lululemon.com%2Fp%2Fmen-ss-tops%2FMetal-Vent-Tech-Short-Sleeve-Two-MD%2F_%2Fprod9661026%3Fcolor%3D46873%26sz%3DM&xcust=deal-gallery" data-id="" data-order="20" data-vars-ga-product-price="$54.00" data-vars-ga-product-id="63ee3d4e-3ab5-4f97-9c50-acd2a7fd9052" data-vars-ga-media-role="" data-vars-ga-product-sem3-id="" data-vars-ga-outbound-link="https://go.skimresources.com?id=31959X896062&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fshop.lululemon.com%2Fp%2Fmen-ss-tops%2FMetal-Vent-Tech-Short-Sleeve-Two-MD%2F_%2Fprod9661026%3Fcolor%3D46873%26sz%3DM&xcust=deal-gallery" aria-label="$54 $78 Lululemon Metal Vent Tech Short Sleeve 2.0″>

Lululemon Metal Vent Tech Short Sleeve 2.0

skimresources.com

<a class="clickable-image-link clickable-image-embed-item clickable-image-product-link" href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08TFSCNTM?linkCode=ogi" target="_blank" data-vars-ga-product-sem3-brand="iRobot" data-vars-ga-product-sem3-category="" data-vars-ga-product-brand="iRobot" data-desturl="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08TFSCNTM?linkCode=ogi" data-id="" data-order="21" data-vars-ga-product-price="$559.98" data-vars-ga-product-id="f7c4bce4-47c8-4f94-ab39-267a862edf88" data-vars-ga-media-role="" data-vars-ga-product-sem3-id="" data-vars-ga-outbound-link="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08TFSCNTM" aria-label="$560 $850 iRobot Roomba i6+ with Echo Dot” data-affiliate=”true”>

iRobot Roomba i6+ with Echo Dot

iRobot amazon.com

$290 OFF (34%)

This smart vacuum senses when it is full, locks itself back into its port and empties without any work on your end. It also keeps a record of its ventures into your home, making for more efficient journeys in the future. This combo includes an Echo Dot for only $10, which is a valuable add-on that has many more benefits than just the vacuum connectivity. 

READ OUR ROOMBA BUYING GUIDE

<a class="clickable-image-link clickable-image-embed-item clickable-image-product-link" href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0093162RM?linkCode=ogi" target="_blank" data-vars-ga-product-sem3-brand="Philips SmartSleep" data-vars-ga-product-sem3-category="" data-vars-ga-product-brand="Philips SmartSleep" data-desturl="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0093162RM?linkCode=ogi" data-id="" data-order="22" data-vars-ga-product-price="$79.95" data-vars-ga-product-id="f2ba8df6-3d85-4867-9ce0-d5471d9fa3cd" data-vars-ga-media-role="" data-vars-ga-product-sem3-id="" data-vars-ga-outbound-link="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0093162RM" aria-label="$80 $100 Philips SmartSleep Wake-up Light” data-affiliate=”true”>

Philips SmartSleep Wake-up Light

Philips SmartSleep amazon.com

$20 OFF (20%)

If you have trouble waking up, especially in the winter, getting an artificial light to simulate sunrise is a great option. This alarm clock features nature sounds to wake you up, tap snooze and an auto-dimming display. 

READ ABOUT THE BEST SMART ALARM CLOCKS

<a class="clickable-image-link clickable-image-embed-item clickable-image-product-link" href="https://go.skimresources.com?id=31959X896062&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.thenorthface.com%2Fshop%2Fseasonal-retro-denali-jacket-nf0a4qyk-c1&xcust=deal-gallery" target="_blank" data-vars-ga-product-sem3-brand="" data-vars-ga-product-sem3-category="" data-vars-ga-product-brand="" data-desturl="https://go.skimresources.com?id=31959X896062&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.thenorthface.com%2Fshop%2Fseasonal-retro-denali-jacket-nf0a4qyk-c1&xcust=deal-gallery" data-id="" data-order="23" data-vars-ga-product-price="$154.00" data-vars-ga-product-id="21ed497e-8327-42b5-9a85-504a79690bba" data-vars-ga-media-role="" data-vars-ga-product-sem3-id="" data-vars-ga-outbound-link="https://go.skimresources.com?id=31959X896062&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.thenorthface.com%2Fshop%2Fseasonal-retro-denali-jacket-nf0a4qyk-c1&xcust=deal-gallery" aria-label="$132 $220 The North Face Retro Denali Jacket”>

The North Face Retro Denali Jacket

skimresources.com

$88 OFF (40%)

This is one of The North Face’s most iconic silhouettes. Supremely warm, this jacket comes in four retro colorways and has a relaxed cut that is both street-ready and mountain-ready. 

READ ABOUT THE BEST PANTS FOR WINTER HIKES