All posts in “Watches”

The Timex Q Watch Keeps Getting Better and Better

Are you tired of the Q Timex line yet? Frankly, we’re not — these watches are affordable, battery-powered, good-looking, and available. Honestly, we say keep ’em coming, especially if they bring more people into the cult. (Ahem, we mean, the watch fold.) So what makes the new Q Timex 1978 Reissue Day-Date special? Check it out:

It’s A Perfect Size

At 37mm in stainless steel, the 1978’s case is ideal for men or women. A domed acrylic crystal keeps the vintage theme going, while 50m of water resistance provides enough protection that you don’t have to worry too much in the rain, or washing your hands. (Just don’t take it swimming, for Pete’s sake.)

timex 1978 battery hatch

Timex

It’s Stupidly Easy to Change the Battery

The 1978’s case includes — as do all the quartz-powered Q models — a battery hatch that you can pop open using a coin. This way, you don’t need to make a special trip to the watchmaker just to get the thing going again.

timex 1978 dial

Timex

It’s Got a Great Dial

With its silver-tone dial, black printing and day-date display, the 1978 looks straight outta — well — the late ’70s. It’s a simple, handsome design that, though clearly tied to a specific moment in time, easily translates to a watch dial in 2021.

It’s Incredibly Affordable

You can get the new Q on its black leather matching strap for $169 right now from Timex.com. No wait lists, no nothing. It’s the perfect watch to gift yourself or someone special. Another home run for Timex.

Price: $169

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Patek Philippe Completely Revamped Its Calatrava Watches

This year, the Watches & Wonders Geneva trade show is once again an online event — only this time, it includes brands such as Rolex, Tudor, Patek Philippe and more. Check back here often for our coverage of this horological mega-show to see all the latest watches.

Many fans of modern Patek Philippe are consumed with the Nautilus — and in particular, with the reference 5711, the steel, time-only variant that was recently discontinued, only to be brought back for a “victory lap” in green. But Patek is about much more than the Nautilus, which only debuted in the 1970s. Though it’s frequently overshadowed, the Calatrava is really the essence of the maison.

Upon its debut in 1932, the Calatrava fairly quickly rose to prominence as the platonic ideal of the dress watch: slender and simple, with a sub-seconds display and a precious metal case paired to an elegant leather strap, the diminutive 30.5mm reference 96 was an instant classic, and formed the base upon which modern Patek Philippe was constructed. Indeed for many watch enthusiasts, when they think of a “dress watch,” they think of a Calatrava.

The Calatrava, given its pricing, was long-considered the entry point into Patek Philippe, and indeed, may still be for many clients, depending of course on their taste. However, Mr. Thierry Stern, president of Patek Philippe, does admit that this is largely dependent upon a client’s personal taste: Some will of course prefer the uber-trendy steel Nautilus — others, highly complicated watches. But there will always be those who love the elegance of a Calatrava, especially one like the new manually wound 6119 (see below).

“I believe everybody has different taste,” he said. “Some people, yes, love the Nautilus, and for many different reasons — it could be fashion, it could be because of the style — but it’s the same for the other products. Some people love to have the design, like the Calatrava — which has now been updated — because they saw it on their father’s or grandfather’s wrist — and they like the mechanical movement, also. Not everybody likes to have an automatic movement. I believe it’s around 20% of our customers who are enjoying manually wound watches because it’s part of your life: You wake up, you wind your watch…it’s a process that you do, like doing sports. It’s part of your life, and they love that.”

“For me,” he continued, “having a new client come to Patek and start with a Calatrava, I would be more than happy because that client would see the whole mechanics — he would understand it also. It’s quite simple to understand. He would see the movement, which is quite beautiful. (This is why we always have a sapphire back.) Though I know that this will be only for 20% of our clients. The 80% who are left, they’re not also all going for the Nautilus. Not everybody likes (the Nautilus). It’s a trend, and this trend will end. We know that. I know it certainly, and I can end it myself if I want to.”

“We did it with the 5711 because I think it was too dangerous (to have a piece like that). But you should not be worried. Patek has been providing s0 many new models during all these years. Today we have over 190 models in the collection. We are able to create new models that will always be successful. This is our duty, and this is my challenge. This is what I do, and I’m very confident. I think the Nautilus is a beautiful watch, but there will be some other ones. The Calatrava is also a beautiful watch, and it will suit also many wrists. We all have different tastes — we should not forget that.”

So history marches on, trends change, and even a product line as enduring as the Calatrava must evolve. Given its 90th birthday next year, I fully expected 2022 to be the “Year of the Calatrava” (and it still may turn out to be…), but much to my surprise, Patek Philippe has debuted several new references with brand-new movements for the 2021 edition of Watches & Wonders — including both time-only variants and a stunning perpetual calendar. Let’s see what we have here.

Ref. 5236P-001

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Patek Philippe

This is the first time Patek has included an in-line perpetual calendar display in a wristwatch

The brand-new 5236P-001 is a perpetual calendar with a unique display: it shows the day, date and month in a single, centered window below 12 o’clock via a group of four numerical discs. This highly elegant, in-line display appeared on one of the company’s pocket watches in the 1970s but has never graced a Patek wristwatch before, chiefly because of space constraints in a wristwatch movement. (Remember: A perpetual calendar mechanically accounts for the different number of days in each month — as well as leap years and the phase of the moon.)

This unique display required a highly complicated, brand-new movement

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Patek Philippe SA

In order to fit the-line display into a wristwatch, Patek Philippe engineered a completely new caliber, the 31-260 PS QL. It features a recessed micro-rotor for automatic winding, the in-line display system (which alone requires 118 parts), and several additional apertures: one for the leap year indication, one for a day/night indication, and one for the moon phase disc.

All of this is packed into a wildly beautiful platinum watch

Measuring 41.3mm wide by only 11.07 tall, the hand-polished, platinum case of the new perpetual calendar looks truly stunning. With its deep blue, satin-finished dial, applied hour markers and baton hands in white gold and matching blue alligator leather strap, the 5236P-001 is a fitting addition to the Calatrava catalog, and should satisfy both fans of the line’s aesthetics as well as those fascinated by the architecture and engineering behind such a complicated movement.

Price: ~$130,110

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Refs. 6119R-001 & 6119G-001 “Clous de Paris”

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Patek Philippe

patek philippe 6119

Patek Philippe

Patek brought back a famous Calatrava bezel type — the hobnail

This type of bezel debuted on a reference as early as 1934 but really came into its own on the ref. 3919 in 1985, which was part of the maison’s catalog for over 20 years. Its design includes a series of concentric, pyramidal tips that makes for a striking look. However, since 2018, this “Clous de Paris” pattern has been noticeably absent from Patek’s catalog. The new 6119 marks its return to the fore.

The case of this unique-bezel Calatrava has been updated to 39mm

The first Calatrava measured just 30.5mm, which is much too small for a men’s wristwatch in 2021. The new 6119 measures a larger 39mm in diameter but retains an extremely thin case, at just 8.43mm, from crystal top to the bottom of the lugs. It features a sapphire crystal case back to display the new movement and is available in rose gold (“R”) and white gold (“G”) variants.

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PATEK PHILIPPE SA

It features a completely new hand-wound movement

There’s no dainty movement with limited power within the new 6119: Both references use the brand-new cal. 30-255 PS, an improvement upon the smaller, manually wound cal. 215 PS. Featuring dual barrels in a parallel configuration, it provides 65 hours of power reserve an increased torque for better power, reliability and accuracy. In short: it’s the movement dedicated horologists have always wanted to see in a time-only Calatrava.

Price: ~$29,570 (both references)

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The Cartier Tank Is Now More Accessible Than Ever

This year, the Watches & Wonders Geneva trade show is once again an online event — only this time, it includes brands such as Rolex, Tudor, Patek Philippe and more. Check back here often for our coverage of this horological mega-show to see all the latest watches.

Joining the Cartier Tank’s multiple sub-collections is a new range that’s quietly a highlight of the Watches & Wonders 2021 trade show. Its familiar looks are deceptive: these Cartier watches have received a subtle but winning redesign and are positioned as an accessible entry point to the brand. Some of them even unexpectedly feature solar-powered movements.

The new collection is wide ranging, and there’s likely something for everyone — including, yes, an automatic model. Although the new collection varies in size, color and other features, the Tank Must is identifiable by its newly rounded edges. Fans of the Tank (and we are many) won’t be disappointed.

The Cartier Must collection is intended as the brand’s most accessible range

cartier tank watches and wonders 2021

Cartier

Also known as the Must de Cartier, this is a range of products (not just watches) which was originally developed in the 1970s as a sort of sub-brand. Its purpose was to expand the Cartier’s appeal to a younger and more budget-conscious audience. That’s precisely what the new Tank Must watches do, and we love the approach the brand has taken with tastefully redesigned elements, new colors and models produced entirely in stainless steel. Prices should range from around $2,730 for the smaller quartz models to under $4,000 for the XL automatic with its in-house movement.

Solar-powered Cartier watches?

cartier tank watches and wonders 2021

Cartier

Cartier isn’t one of the first brands you’d think would come out with a solar-powered movement, but that’s exactly what its done. Even more interesting is that the Solarbeat Photovoltaic tech was developed in-house, and the company says it took two years to integrate into the Tank’s design without compromising its famous elegance. How did they do it? Invisible perforations in the black Roman numerals allow light to reach the photovoltaic cells beneath.

There are 15 variations in the new Cartier Tank Must lineup

cartier tank watches and wonders 2021

Cartier

With quartz, solar and automatic models — many of which are available in different sizes (small, medium, large, extra large) — you’re not lacking options. (There are straps and steel bracelets as well.) The classic white-dial-and-Roman-numeral design is well represented here, but the most eye-catching is a range of quartz models: Three fashion-oriented watches feature rich shades of red, green and blue lacquer dials lacking any markers and come on matching straps.

Some new, higher-end Louis Cartier models also joined the Tank collection

cartier tank watches and wonders 2021

Cartier

In addition to the Must models, there are a couple new Tank models with high-end, manually wound movements and precious metal cases. They might be out of reach for many of the Must collection’s target demographic, but the Louis Cartier line has long offered highly refined variations on the basic Tank concept, and new versions with striking Art-Deco dials make for a hell of a look. Prices are around $14,000.

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Tudor Unveiled Its New Watches for 2021, and Nobody Saw Them Coming

This year, the Watches & Wonders Geneva trade show is once again an online event — only this time, it includes brands such as Rolex, Tudor, Patek Philippe and more. Check back here often for our coverage of this horological mega-show to see all the latest watches.

Tudor‘s new watches for 2021 are finally here, with chronograph and dive watches in the brand’s flagship Black Bay collection the stars of the show. You wanted “panda dials?” Tudor delivered. Gold and sterling silver-cased dive watches? That was somewhat unexpected, but it seems just about everything looks good on the massively popular Black Bay Fifty-Eight.

As Rolex’s sister brand and one of the hottest names in watchmaking, anticipation ran high, but it’s safe to say not many people saw any of these watches coming from Tudor. Each of them offers a fun, retro-inspired aesthetic, and will of course offer the strong value and incredible quality the brand is loved for.

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The New Black Bay Chrono for 2021

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The new Black Bay Chrono comes in “panda dial” versions

Contrasting black subdials on a white main dial is often colloquially called a “panda dial,” while the opposite is a “reverse panda dial.” The new Tudor Black Bay Chrono comes in both versions, and it looks pretty killer. With roots in motorsport, it’s a look that was popular in the 1960s and is experiencing a resurgence — along with just about everything in watches from that era. Contrasting subdials have been found on models in the past like the two-tone S&G models, but black and white has a very classic, retro look.

white dial watch face

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The Chrono’s case is now thinner than ever — but other features are unchganged

Chronographs tend to be chunky due to their complicated movements, so every bit of thickness that can be shaved off is appreciated. The new Black Bay Chrono’s case is now 14.4mm thick, but the 41mm diameter is the same as previous versions. The bezel is in black aluminum, and the movement inside is same the MT5813 which was jointly developed with Breitling.

Price: $4,900 (strap); $5,225 (bracelet)

The New Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 and 18k Watches for 2021

silver watch with taupe dial

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gold watch with green dial

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They feature new case materials, including uncommon sterling silver

The “925” in the new Black Bay Fifty-Eight dive watch’s name stands for sterling silver. Although often thought of as metal used in jewelry design, it’s an unusual material for use in watch cases. In order to make it most appropriate for watches, Tudor uses its own proprietary (and undisclosed) alloy, but it’s said to offer an especially “luminous” effect (distinguishing it from plain old stainless steel) and presumably avoids easy tarnishing. It’s matched to a taupe dial and aluminum bezel, for a distinctive but warm look.

A second new model, simply called the Black Bay 18k, is rendered entirely in 18k gold and matched to a green dial and aluminum bezel. (The Black Bay Fifty-Eight has been popular for its 39mm case size that offers a better wearing experience for many than the standard Black Bay at 41mm.) The entire case of both the silver and gold models is rendered with a brushed finish.

A display case back shows off the in-house movement

gold watch with view of movement

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Unlike other Black Bay dive watches, each of the new silver and gold Tudor Black Bay watches have case backs with a window displaying the excellent, COSC-chronometer-certified, in-house MT5400 automatic movement. Such a display case back poses some extra challenges to water resistance, but Tudor manages to maintain the perfectly dive-ready 200m rating. The price premium for silver above the impressive value proposition of steel isn’t outrageous, either — but gold is, of course, significantly more expensive.

Price: $4,300 (silver); $16,800 (gold)

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You Can Now Buy a Two-Tone Rolex Explorer

This year, the Watches & Wonders Geneva trade show is once again an online event — only this time, it includes brands such as Rolex, Tudor, Patek Philippe and more. Check back here often for our coverage of this horological mega-show to see all the latest watches.

Hark! The herald angels sing. The Rolex Explorer is 36mm again. Let all and sundry rejoice. (Go on — rejoice. I’ll make coffee while you rejoice and then be right back.)

Have your rejoiced yet? Great. This is the deal: The watch, in both Oystersteel and Rolesor is back to its original, 1953-ish 36mm case size. Which is GREAT. Here’s what you otherwise need to know about the new references:

They’re powered by the Rolex cal. 3230 automatic movement

rolex cal 3230

Rolex

This caliber, which debuted in 2020, is perfect for the Explorer: highly shock- and magnetic-resistant, it features a Chronergy escapement, Parachrom hairspring and special Paraflex shock absorbers. (Read: you can beat the shit out of your watch and it’ll continue to tick.) It’s also got a 70-hour power reserve, so you could conceivably put it down on a Friday evening, pick it up on a Monday morning, and it would still have many more hours to tick before it stopped.

They’re back to their original size

Ahh, the 36mm sweet spot. This was the size of the original Explorer I back in the 1950s, and the size of most of the references up until the 214270, which debuted in 2010 and measured 39mm in diameter. Folks seemed to really dig the 36mm case size, however, and bringing the new ref. 124270 (steel) and ref. 124273 (gold) back to that diameter just makes sense. Bravo, Rolex.

You can get a two-tone version for the first time ever

rolex 124273

Rolex

The new ref. 124273 comes in Rolesor, Rolex’s steel and 18 carat gold blend. (The watch’s smooth bezel, crown and inner bracelet links are made from yellow gold, while the black dial’s white indices also feature matching yellow gold surrounds.) This is the first time an Explorer — that most toolish of tool watches — has been given a 1980s livery.

Both feature a black lacquered dial with Chromalight lume

rolex exp i dial

Rolex

You’re getting a black dial with either reference, though that of the two-tone model features yellow gold surrounds — those of the steel model, white gold. All indices are now lume-filled…for maximim lume. These suckers should glow like crazy.

You’re getting a robust Oyster case with either model

100m of water resistance, fluted case back with hermetic sealing, Twinlock winding crown, virtually scratchproof sapphire crystal…this is a robust watch. (Even the two-tone version.) Hilary and Norgay would no doubt be proud to carry either one up Mt. Everest today.

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The Best New Watches of 2021

This year, the Watches & Wonders Geneva trade show is once again an online event — only this time, it includes brands such as Rolex, Tudor, Patek Philippe and more. Check back here often for our coverage of this horological mega-show to see all the latest watches.

Ripple effects of the COVID-19 pandemic were strong and wide-ranging. First, Watches & Wonders Geneva (previously SIHH) was canceled as an in-person event and moved online. Shortly afterward, Baselworld was also canceled and moved online. However, following Rolex, Tudor, Patek Philippe, Chopard and Chanel’s announcement that they were leaving in favor of joining W&W in Geneva, Baselworld ultimately collapsed. Suddenly, the century-old trade show was no more (though a future trade show in Basel, called HourVerse, was announced), and W&W became the world’s horological lodestone, both for Richemont-owned brands and others.

None of this is particular important for the consumer, of course, and matters more to members of the press and retailers. A race to catch up with e-commerce and an interruption to the regular product cycle probably have more of an impact upon the watch-buying public. However, these developments in the trade show world bring us to the current moment: this April, the great majority of the famed, old Swiss watchmakers will be releasing their flagship products for 2021 — all at once. So for the first time ever, you’ll be getting your new IWCs and JLCs dropping alongside your new Rollies and Pateks. Kind of an interesting moment in watches.

This makes for quite a lot of watches to talk about, and naturally, we can’t talk about them all at once. Here, however, we aim to bring you some of the standouts of the year, beginning with the newest models from Watches & Wonders 2021. Hopefully you’ll find something you like, and maybe even something to gift yourself (or someone else!) to cap off a year of quarantine, just in time for the world to begin reopening.

Editor’s Note: These watches are organized by alphabetical order and not according to any sort of superlatives — we love ’em all. We’ll update this page throughout the show and throughout the year, so be sure to check back often.

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar

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Believe it or not, what you’re looking at is the first Lange 1 perpetual calendar…full stop. Like, without a chronograph or a tourbillon or a whiriygig or a whosamawhatsit. Ain’t she purdy? It comes in two versions: white gold (limited to 150 pieces) and pink gold (unlimited), and both cost a smidge over $100k. At 41.9mm, this is no small watch, but considering the amount of information displayed, it’s damn remarkable (time, digital jumping date, day, month, moon phase, layered leap year and day/night indicator). This is the type of watchmaking Lange is already known for, but to integrate it unburdened by another complication into the Lange 1 platform has been a long time coming.

Notable Features: Perpetual calendar and day/night indicator; two metal choices

Winding: Automatic

Price: $104,500 (pink gold); $116,000 (white gold LE)

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Breitling Premier Heritage B09 Chronograph 40

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Breitling released a new Premier Heritage collection featuring several different chronograph watches (each in a couple versions), all with a captivating 1940s aesthetic based on vintage examples. We love the complicated chronos in the collection with fancy complications such as split seconds and annual calendars, but the model known as the B09 Chronograph 40 has an appeal all its own. While it “only” features a chronograph and is offered in steel to keep it “relatively” affordable, it’s the steel version’s dial that grabs your attention. It’s in a shade of green the company calls “pistachio,” and it’s fair to say it looks pretty unique and unlike any watch from the 1940s — or from today, for that matter.

Notable Features: “Pistachio” green dial; in-house movement; 40mm case
Winding: Manual
Price: $8,400

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Bulgari Octo Perpetual Calendar

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Bulgari has already set multiple records for the thinnest watches in various categories. Their latest is a perpetual calendar housed in the brand’s distinctive Octo case, which was famously designed by Gerald Genta. Despite its mechanically accounting for every irregularity of the Gregorian calendar — including the different days in the months and even leap years — Bulgari managed to fit all the complicated clockwork required into a 5.8mm thick case in titanium or platinum, with movement only 2.75mm thick! The dial’s layout and retrograde displays seem to draw on the aesthetics of Genta’s retrograde watches, and the aggregate effect of all this masterful design and technical achievement is captivating.

Notable Features: Perpetual calendar; retrograde displays; 5.8mm thick case; titanium & platinum versions
Winding: Manual
Price: TBD

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Cartier Ballon Bleu 40mm

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If there’s a sweet spot for watch sizes, 40mm is probably it for a lot of people. Previously only available in 42mm or 36mm and smaller, a new version of the well-known Cartier Ballon Bleu slides right into that glaringly open space and will make its distinctive design instantly more wearable for a wider audience. It’s essentially the same highly original, elegant design with Cartier’s seal of prestige, and (as in other core collections) it’s powered by the brand’s in-house 1847 MC automatic workhorse movement. Available in different case materials and blue, gray or classic silver dial colors, each has (integrated) bracelet or strap options with a quick-change system.

Notable Features: 40mm diameter; in-house automatic movement; quick-change straps
Winding: Automatic
Price: $5,800+

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Chopard L.U.C QF Jubilee

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Chopard’s L.U.C range is the best-kept secret in watchmaking. There it is, I said it, the secret’s out…but it’s likely to remain under-the-radar and a strong value anyway. The brand’s newest watch is no exception to the understated but high-level craftsmanship, refinement and design that characterizes L.U.C. The QF in the name refers to the Fleurier Quality certification that’s comparable to the more famous Geneva Seal found on some of the most prestigious watches from the likes of Vacheron Constantin and others. The L.U.C QF Jubilee has a simple sector-style dial, the in-house manually wound movement is visible through the back, and it’s all housed in a 39mm steel case.

Notable Features: Fleurier Quality certification; in-house movement
Winding: Manual
Price: TBD

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H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Mega Cool

watches and wonders 2021 best in show

H. Moser & Cie.

H. Moser & Cie. is known for several things: its exquisite movements, its eye-catching dials and its occasionally cheeky attitude. The brand’s new “Mega Cool” watch has all of that. With a turquoise dial in the brand’s signature sunbrushed fumé (smoked) style, it joins the Pioneer Centre Seconds collection, which is already full of colorful watches. The cheekiness comes in with the name and what at first appears to be no branding on the dial — in fact, the logo is rendered in a transparent lacquer at 12 o’clock. Though elegant in style, the Pioneer collection has a sporty case design, Super-LumiNova lume and offers 120m of water resistance — and this is true even of the new tourbillon-equipped version..

Notable Features: “Blue Lagoon” fumé dial; in-house automatic movement, 120m water resistance
Winding: Automatic
Price: $15,300

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Hermès H08

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Though better known for its leather products, Hermès every so often comes out with a aesthetically striking and technically impressive watch — and many watch snobs are reminded that the French brand is indeed a bonafide watchmaker on par with many of Switzerland’s finest. The newest is simply called the H08, and it features a unique look with a cushion-like case, round dial and a distinctive style of Arabic numerals. It’s powered by the brand’s own in-house movement and comes in cases made of titanium or a black, carbon-based material called graphene.

Notable Features: In-house movement; titanium and graphene case options
Winding: Automatic
Price: $5,500-$8,900

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IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Edition “Mojave Desert”

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The sand-colored”Mojave” ceramic treatment remains one of IWC’s coolest. The previous version was a chronograph and this year also sees a Mojave perpetual calendar, but the time-only simplicity of the Big Pilot’s Watch allows the focus to remain on the materials, textures and colors. The entire watch, from the case to the dial to the hands, is matte-finished, which should make for strong legibility. Further making it easy to read (if less easy to wear) is its 46mm diameter — which only whets our appetites for the possibility of something like, say, a smaller Spitfire Automatic with the same treatment somewhere down the line.

Notable Features: Ceramic case; power reserve indicator
Winding: Automatic
Price: $14,800

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 Quadriptyque

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Forget about the absurdly long name for a second. Just think about the following: this is the most complicated Reverso ever. It’s the first wristwatch ever with four faces. (That’s, like, three more faces than normal.) It took six years to develop. It features three displays of lunar information, including the synodic cycle, the draconic cycle and the anomalistic cycle. (I don’t know what any of those are, but I think the middle one tells you how many dragons emerge from hibernation per month.) It’s got 11 complications, including a perpetual calendar and a minute repeater. It required 12 patents to be filed. It’s made of white gold and limited to 10 pieces. It costs 1.35 million EUR. It’s freakin’ DOPE.

Notable Features: First wristwatch with four dials; 11 complications; 12 patents

Winding: Manual

Price: ~$1.6M

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Montblanc Star Legacy Metamorphosis LE 8

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Montblanc’s crazy-complicated watches like the Star Legacy Metamorphosis are meant as a showcase and reminder of the brand’s impressive capabilities. With the press of a button and slide of a lever, the watch transforms between two different faces with a mechanical animation: The subdial at 6 o’clock displays world time with a rotating globe motif, but then it splits in half to open like shutters, revealing a three-dimensional moon in an aventurine sky. The balance wheel is visible at 12 o’clock all times, but when the shutters are opened, the entire tourbillon structure is revealed. The whole watch comprises over 718 tiny components, all handcrafted by Montblanc in its specialized facilities.

Notable Features: Transforming dial; tourbillon; world time; moon phases
Winding: Manual
Price: $253,500

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Oris Divers Sixty-Five “Cotton Candy” 38mm

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A new dial color: big whoop, right? Well, nobody will be yawning at Oris’s unique and striking new “Cotton Candy” colorway for its Divers Sixty-Five collection. Paired to bronze, retro-styled dive watch cases, the pale tones of blue, green and pink are unexpected but feel fresh and positive. They also feel unisex, with potentially feminine colors and 38mm sizes — but these watches are all about how you wear them. They come on bronze bracelets or brown leather straps and are powered by automatic movements.

Notable Features: Bronze case; unique colors
Winding: Automatic
Price: ~$2,335-$2,650

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Panerai Submersible e-LAB ID

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Panerai’s ties to the ocean — they’re a famed dive watch manufacturer, after all — mean that they take more than just a passing notice of the environment and the need to care for it. Their new Submersible e-LAB ID aims to take the concept of a “recycled” watch to its logical extreme: roughly 98.6% of its weight comes from “materials integrating a high rate of recycled elements.” Panerai even put together a sort of consortium of companies to produce many of the watch’s components, which includes titanium, luminous material and strap manufacturers. It doesn’t hurt that the watch itself is pretty darn cool-looking: manufactured from recycled EcoTitanium, it’s powered by an automatic movement housed in a 44mm case.

Notable Features: Recycled components; open-source manufacturing
Winding: Automatic
Price: ~$71,235

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TAG Heuer Aquaracer 300

watches and wonders 2021 best in show

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The latest generation of TAG Heuer’s Aquaracer dive watch introduces a range of tweaks while remaining recognizable. The changes incorporate multiple subtle improvements to ergonomics and user experience, and these notably include an overall thinner and lighter case. The most visually obvious changes are the bezel’s now grippier texture — which is in line with that of typical modern dive watches — and the 6 o’clock date display topped with a circular magnifier (“cyclops”) lens. The seven new versions include 43mm and 36mm variants, and a couple of notable models are in titanium” one with a green dial/bezel and one with a retro/military dial evoking that of the Aquaracer from 1978, the ref. 844.

Notable Features: Thinner case; titanium editions
Winding: Automatic
Price: $2,800-$4,350

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Ulysse Nardin UFO Clock

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I know what you’re thinking: Today is Wednesday. But you’re also thinking that this is not a watch. And you’d be right. But contemplate with us for a moment just how darn cool this clock is: Built from 663 components and boasting an incredible one year of power reserve from six extra-large barrels, UN’s UFO clock can display three time zones simultaneously. It takes inspiration — like many of Ulysse Nardin’s pieces — from the ocean, and the gentle swaying of the waves. To that end, the clock’s bottom is rounded and actually swings back and forth up to 60 degrees from its axis due to a tungsten mass built into the base. If it weren’t limited to just 75 pieces at a price of $41,100, I’d buy two.

Notable Features: One-year power reserve; three time zones; unique balancing base

Winding: Manual

Price: $41,100

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Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Ultra-Thin

watches and wonders 2021 best in show

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There are chronographs, and then there are chronographs — this is the latter. The Traditionelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Ultra-Thin Collection Excellence Platine (we actually shit you not) is so refined it’s almost silly, and it’s probably why the maison is only making 15 of them. Crafted almost entirely from platinum — down to the threading in the leather strap — this 42.5mm beauty celebrates Vacheron’s 260th anniversary and includes a split seconds mechanism, which allows the wearer to time two events simultaneously. Due to the ultra-thin design of the in-house caliber 3500, the watch is amazingly only 10.72mm thick despite automatic winding.

Notable Features: Platinum construction; split-seconds chronograph
Winding: Automatic
Price: TBD

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We Haven’t Seen a Breitling Watch Like This Since the 1940s

When you see a triple calendar chronograph watch today, it’s usually an actual vintage example from the 1940s or ’50s. Even as everything vintage is fresh again, most modern watchmakers don’t bother with the cost and complexity of this elegant combination of features.

Collectors still love them, however — and Breitling‘s latest resurrected model is a primo example.

Honestly, we didn’t think we’d get such a cool 1940s-styled Premier when we wished for it just yesterday in predicting what the Watches & Wonders trade show might bring. (This is how you know you’ve had your head in the watch world too long.) In fact, the new-again Breitling Premier B25 Datora 42 is even cooler than we’d hoped for, and it joins a range of several models based on 1940s chronographs.

The layout is as classic as it gets: two windows at 12 o’clock for the month and day of the week, and a 6 o’clock subdial for the moon phase indicator and date. (The rest of the functions are typical time and chronograph features.) The chronograph and annual calendar features each require complicated mechanics, and together they display a good deal of information. It’s testament to great engineering and design that it can all come together so elegantly.

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breitling

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The watch is available in two versions. A steel model steals the show with a copper dial (some might call it “salmon”), but a red gold-cased version has a very classical feel, thanks to its cream-colored dial. Both are 42mm wide (a bit smaller would’ve been nice) and run on the brand’s own in-house B25 automatic movement. The new movement is based on the Breitling B01 and was developed in collaboration with the Swiss company Concepto.

It shouldn’t be surprising that complicated mechanical watches are expensive; the steel version runs into five figures and the one in red gold is more than double that. Considering its complexity and in-house movement, however, a price difference of a couple grand between these and simpler chronographs in the collection doesn’t seem unreasonable. Both are available directly from the brand or from the Hodinkee Shop, at a price of $10,250 in steel or $22,850 in red gold.

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You Can Get This Premium Watch for Under $500

Pompeak is back with a range of stunning watches at a price point that defies its premium feature set. Its first-ever dive watch, the Sub-Aquatic, has been designed, refined and tested over the last 12 months and the result is a stunning fusion of British design, high-quality materials and a Swiss automatic movement. It’s made of 904L stainless steel and features a scratch-resistant ceramic bezel insert, which will stand up to any bumps and jolts you encounter throughout your day. The Sub-Aquatic is available in two impressive dial options, a deep blue/black gradient for a stunning yet clean look or a 3D-textured finish with bold hands. Plus, with a 200m water-resistance rating, you won’t ever have to take it off this summer.

Price: ~$536+

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5 Things We Could See from Rolex in 2021

This year, Rolex will announce its new watches on April 7th. Let the annual swirl of hype, speculation, rumors and general giddiness surrounding the Swiss brand’s releases begin. In fact, the predictions began weeks ago, but official release time is now almost upon us — and we can’t help but take a stab at The Great Rolex Guessing Game.

Never mind that the rest of the watch industry is also making its major announcements around now, as all that seems insignificant in comparison. With the decline of Baselworld, Rolex now joins the growing Watches & Wonders trade show (previously known as SIHH) which, of course, is taking place virtually.

Though Rolex releases are guarded like state secrets until their big reveal, we’re not going in blind: There are discernible cycles and patterns to the brand’s strategy, and the collective expertise of the internet has predicted new products with remarkable accuracy in the past. Teasers help, too. Although nothing is certain, here are some likely releases we could see, some we’d like to see but probably won’t, and some shots in the dark.

An Upgraded Explorer II

After wide speculation that the Explorer II would be this year’s big announcement, it was essentially confirmed by a teaser video the brand released last week featuring dial closeups and imagery of spelunking — the activity for which the watch was intended. Introduced in 1971, how could Rolex ignore this popular sport watch’s 50th anniversary? That it got an update 10 years ago for its 40th anniversary is just one more reason to expect something new for its 50th. But what kind of updates might we see?

Just as it got a new movement in 2011, the the Explorer II is ripe for a movement upgrade again — and this has been the treatment other collections have recently received. New movements, new bracelet options and tweaked case size are favorite ways for Rolex to update a model. Currently at 42mm, it would be surprising for the Explorer II to get any bigger, and it doesn’t seem likely it’ll shrink either — considering the brand doesn’t seem to be trending toward smaller cases like the rest of the industry, having upped the sizes of key models last year.

Aesthetically, vintage and vintage-inspired is the order of the day in the watch industry, and even Rolex isn’t immune to that. Might a new Explorer II bring back cues from the original reference 1655? The current design is clean and reflects core elements of Rolex’s sport watch identity, so it would be surprising to see the Mercedes handset and dot hour markers replaced with the 1655’s stick hands and indices. Rather, the brand might offer a nod to the vintage model in a more subtle way, such as through tweaking dial text and fonts.

Other sport watches in Rolex’s “Professional” collections (Submariner, Daytona, GMT Master II, etc.) have been treated to the likes of colorful dials and gold cases. That kind of thing just wouldn’t fit the Explorer II, as the collection has remained focused on its tool watch roots. So it’s a little hard to imagine how new models can be visually differentiated.

But that shouldn’t stop us from exercising our imaginations and pontificating on what could be a cool update for the beloved spelunker’s watch, so here are a couple spitballs: What about a black ceramic bezel? It would change up the look of the Explorer II that’s always had steel bezel, but it just might fit its character. Or…what if — just what if — the watch’s famous orange highlights were also available in blue or Rolex green??

5 things we could see from rolex in 2021

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A Daytona With a New Color Scheme

This seems quite plausible as a secondary release. Rolex releases new models in multiple collections each year, after all, even if it typically focuses on a single collection for its big announcement. There have been totally unsubstantiated internet rumors floating around of a blue-bezeled Daytona, which would be expected in a precious metal like platinum. Swanky or exotic new versions of the Daytona would be unsurprising, especially if other collections satisfy consumers’ craving for 904L stainless steel.

An Upgrade for the Humble Explorer

Rolex often focuses on a certain collection for its major updates. So, even though it’s a very different watch from the Explorer II, it’s interesting to imagine the simple, often overlooked Explorer getting an upgrade. As one of Rolex’s entry-level, historical sport watches, the Explorer is due for a new movement and deserves a little attention.

To make a splash and to capitalize on all the vintage enthusiasm — if you’ll humor my fanciful thinking — a modern interpretation of the original’s honeycomb dial would be just so damn cool. Though here’s why that won’t happen: It would be a relatively big move for a brand that is notoriously conservative, and Rolex tends to save the spotlight for one release at a time. If it were to happen, 2023 would be more opportune as an anniversary of the original (honeycomb-dialed) 1953 Explorer. Something like a change in diameter or a white dial version (as the Explorer II offers) seems more likely.

5 things we could see from rolex in 2021

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The Submariner on a Jubilee Bracelet

More Rolex sport watches have been offered on Jubilee bracelets for recent years’ releases, so the Submariner feels like a candidate for this treatment. Though it’s born of use as a diver’s tool, it’s long since outgrown that function to serve more often as a status symbol today. Witness all the “fancy” versions with cases in gold and dials of various colors: they’d look perfectly appropriate on a relatively fancy-feeling Jubilee bracelet instead of the straight-ahead Oyster. If Rolex goes this route, it’ll likely only be for certain higher-end models (rather than the steel-and-black-dial classic), and they’ll surely pair it with something tasteful.

Possible Discontinued Models

Rolex giveth, and Rolex taketh away. Though it might not be considered newsworthy by the masses, the Rolex cycle also means some watches quietly go away sometimes. The brand doesn’t want to be a mess of overlooked models and more options than anyone can keep track of. (We’re looking at you, Seiko). It’s hard to predict which will cease production, and it might simply be certain variations from within collections. In terms of major possible discontinuations, the poor old Air King has often remained in the shadows. It should probably either be updated or retired. It could also be retired for the time being only to return as an all new refresh six years from now for its — yes — anniversary.

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Looking for a Luxury Watch to Add to Your Collection? Start Here

watchbox watches

WatchBox

For those interested in the world of watches, few times of year are as exciting as Watches and Wonders (formerly known as Baselworld and SIHH). It’s a time when incredible timepieces are released by the world’s most well-known watchmakers like Rolex, Panerai and Tudor. Unique and limited-edition watches released at the show have the internet buzzing, but most will never even make it to dealers — and getting your hands on one is near-impossible. But strapping a highly-sought-after luxury watch to your wrist is actually easier than you think. WatchBox, the world’s leading watch house, offers an incredible collection of pre-owned luxury watches, all certified authentic and collector quality. The retailer has some of the most desirable timepieces out there on offer, like the Rolex Submariner Date 16610, Grand Seiko Heritage Hi-Beat 36000 GMT SBGJ213 or the Panerai Luminor Marina 8 Days Acciaio PAM 590. Of course, WatchBox also offers far more than just those listed here. For a few of the notable collections worth exploring, read on below.

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Rolex Professional Collection

The Rolex Professional Collection is home to some of its most classic and recognizable models like the Submariner Date 16610 or the Explorer and Explorer II. The Submariner, first released in 1953, was the first watch that could claim the title of being waterproof to 100 meters. The Explorer and Explorer II, as their names suggest, have adorned the wrists of some of the most notable explorers in history like Sir Edmund Hilary, Tenzing Norgay and Ed Viesturs. If you are looking for a watch that will never go out of style and will look great with just about anything in your closet, the Rolex Professional Collection is the way to go.

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Panerai Luminor and Luminor 1950

The first time that the Panerai Luminor was available to the public was in 1993, but the watch has a deep history that starts long before that. The brand’s Luminor watches were originally only available to the Italian military. The first Luminor was released in 1949, and referenced the self-luminous material applied to the dial that was safer and brighter than the brand’s Radiomir lume. Today, Panerai watches are instantly recognizable by their case shape and crown protector.

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Tudor Black Bay

Tudor has long had a history of making highly durable, highly accurate watches that perform in the toughest environments. The brand notably provided watches for one of the first scientific expeditions to Greenland, the British North Greenland Expedition. The brand’s Black Bay line of watches embodies that perfect mix of durability, accuracy and style. If you need help with where to start when shopping for a Tudor, take a look at the GMT, a perfect daily driver or the Black Bay Bronze, which offers a beautiful bronze case on a black and bronze NATO strap.

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Grand Seiko Heritage

In terms of finish and quality, few watches live up to the reputation of Grand Seiko. Its watches have long been favorites of in-the-know watch enthusiasts and collectors alike. But it doesn’t take a watch enthusiast to appreciate the styling of the brand’s Heritage line and models like the Spring Drive GMT SBGE209 or the Hi-Beat 36000 GMT SBGJ213.

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Omega Speedmaster

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These Excellent Watches? All Seen on Famous Wrists at the 2021 SAG Awards

The entertainment industry’s many, many awards ceremonies are always about more than the best movies and television. They tend to have an impact in everything from politics to fashion; indeed, these events themselves become entertainment events worthy of sitting back and enjoying with a bucket of popcorn.

That’s no less true for avid watchers of wristwatches. Celebrities, of course, not only have the means to choose from some of the most rare and interesting watches, but such ceremonies are the perfect time for them to show off their taste.

Here are a few of the best watches we spotted on famous wrists at the 2021 Screen Actors Guild Awards on Sunday.

Eli Goree: Girard Perregaux Vintage 1945 XXL Date and Moon Phases

eli goree is seen in his award show look for the 27th annual screen actors guild awards on april 1, 2021 in los angeles

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Eli Goree — nominated for his role as Cassius Clay in the film One Night in Miami… chose for the event a complicated watch called the Vintage 1945 XXL Date and Moon Phases by Girard-Perregaux. The rectangular design is typically associated with formalwear, and it fits the occasion perfectly.

Price: $13,400

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Eddie Redmayne: Omega Seamaster Aqua Terrra

eddie redmayne wearing suit

Omega

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One of the Swiss watchmaker’s most prominent celebrity ambassadors, Eddie Redmayne, as ever, wore an Omega. Specifically, it was a classic Seamaster Aqua Terra, here outfitted with a blue dial, sporty rubber strap and the brand’s excellent caliber 8900 automatic movement. Redmayne was nominated for Outstanding Performance by a Cast in a Motion Picture for the film Trial of the Chicago 7.

Price: $5,500

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Henry Golding: Patek Philippe Nautilus

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SAG Awards

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Via video, actor Henry Golding presented the award for Best Female Actor to Youn Yuh-jung for her role in the film Minari. On his wrist a Patek Philippe Nautilus could clearly be seen as he gesticulated, and it appears to be none other than the most classic reference of them all, the now-discontinued 5711/1A. The steel sport watch is legendary and one of the most potent prestige symbols in all of watches.

Price: $33,710

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Steven Yeun: Omega De Ville Trésor

actor steven yeun

Omega

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Steven Yeun was nominated for two awards for his role in the film Minari: Outstanding Performance by a Male Actor in a Leading Role in a Motion Picture and Outstanding Performance by a Cast Ensemble in a Motion Picture. The actor wore just about the dressiest watch Omega makes: the De Ville Trésor in 18k yellow gold.

Price: $16,200

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What Kind of Dress Watch Is Right For You?

Watch buyers often start with a very broad question: sport watch or dress watch?

If it’s a sport watch, then the choices branch in a hundred directions like a choose-your-own-adventure novel. Clearly defined genres of sport watch include dive, pilot and motorsport watches as well as military watches and more, each seemingly with its own sub-genres. In this context, it makes sense to define a watch by its intended purpose, but this leaves dress watches — ostensibly just for “dressing up” — lumped into a single ill-defined mass despite the variety that exists.

Aside from its pragmatism and simplicity, a dress watch is primarily identified by its design and aesthetics: you more or less know a dress watch when you see it. This is subjective, of course, as watches made for action in the past may today be viewed as “dressy.” There are, however, a range of different (though often overlapping) types of dress watches available, and being aware of the most common traditional styles will help any potential buyer narrow down their search.

Classical Dress Watches

If a dive watch is rock-n-roll, think of the classical style of dress watch as a string quartet playing Bach: the feel is very conservative and perhaps even of another time. Typical traits might include Roman numerals or simple stick indices, thin hands, monochromatic colorways and traditional decorative techniques like guilloche.

Modern Minimal

The minimalist approach to watch design is naturally understated and easy to fit into a dressy theme, even though it can also have a casual feel. German and Scandinavian brands seem to have a knack for this genre, as exemplified by the Bauhaus movement. Pared-back dials with thin cases can feel fresh and contemporary compared to those of more traditional watch styles.

Complicated Dress Watches

Many dress watches are characterized by simplicity, but this doesn’t have to be the case. If rendered in an elegant way, dress watches can incorporate a range of complications, features and information — and this offers a whole new wearing experience. Calendar information and moon phase indicators are popular features, but even chronographs are fair game.

Rectangular Dress Watches

Square and rectangular watches were once much more popular, but today the vast majority are relegated to formal styling. The proportions are key to getting a good fit, so remember that these watches wear larger than their diameter would suggest. Thin cases also help, and when you get the proportions right the look is as classic as it gets.

This Popular Vintage Chronograph Watch Is Back — in Bronze

Regatta-style chronograph watches often stand out from the pack due to their colorful subdials — and you don’t have to race sailboats to appreciate this quirky but purposeful look that fascinates vintage watch collectors. Timepieces made specifically for timing regattas began proliferating in the 1950s, and Yema’s examples from the 1960s have long stood out.

Now, Yema has resurrected a 1966 model for 2021. Unlike those older models, though, the latest watches pack some modern twists — not least of which is a bronze case and 300m of water resistance.

Why the distinctive looks? Yacht races begin with a five-minute dash toward the starting line that has to be carefully timed; if you jump the gun and your vessel crosses the line early, you’re penalized. That’s why the Yachtingraf’s subdial is clearly broken into five-minute segments, resulting in an asymmetric look and a pop of color on the dial. (The watch’s running seconds subdial at 3 o’clock is much smaller than the yachting subdial.)

Yema captures the vintage regatta chronograph vibe well, but the watch likely won’t be mistaken for an actual vintage piece. Why? For starters, its 40mm brushed case is made of bronze, a material which simply wasn’t “a thing” in watchmaking back then. There’s also the fact that the chronograph subdial in question is at 9 o’clock rather than 3 o’clock as on vintage Yema Yachtingrafs.

Then, there are updates that are expected of reissues, such as sapphire crystal and a modern movement. Here, said movement is the same Seiko NE86 automatic chronograph caliber — automatic chronographs weren’t a thing yet in 1966, either — that powers the brand’s recent reissue of its motorsport chronograph, the Speedgraf. (It’s an interesting but still uncommon movement, even within Seiko’s own product lines.) Finally, water resistance of 300m essentially makes this a diver’s chronograph — although its bezel seems more geared toward general travel with its 12-hour markings.

When Yema reissued the Yachtingraf previously, it had an ETA 7750 movement, a steel case and a significantly higher price. When compared to the Speedgraf, the Yachtingraf’s premium features (case material, water resistance, etc.) make its mere $200 price difference seem very reasonable. You can pre-order one of the 200 limited-edition examples directly from Yema now for $1,699.

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How to Change a Watch Battery

The battery is dead. Long live the battery.

If your quartz watch takes a licking but actually stopped kicking, never fear: you can easily change that battery yourself. All you need is a few tools and a new battery.

Everything You’ll Need

Step 1: Know what you’re working with

If your watch has a screw back, you should see several notches or a raised edge that’s used in conjunction with a tool to open it. If it’s a snap back, there will be a small notch or lip that’s used to pop it off. If you’re very, very lucky and you own something like a CWC or MWC watch (or certain Timexes), there might be a battery hatch.

Step 2: Open the case back

First, figure out if your watch has a screw back or a snap-back. If it has a screw back, follow these steps to open it. If it has a snap back, follow similar steps until you get to the point where you need to actually open the case (i.e. seat the case back holder in a vice, and seat the case in the case back holder). Now, find the little notch in your snap back case and slide the case knife in there. Apply some upward friction, and the back should pop open.

If your watch has a battery hatch (like in the below image), grab a coin and twist that sucker off.

cwc g10 back

CWC

Step 3: Choose the right battery

Now the battery should be exposed — read the serial number and order a replacement. (It’s even better to determine this beforehand by looking at your watch’s documentation, or, if you don’t have it, looking online.) To replace the battery, pop out the old one (or use a toothpick to do so) and simply snap the new one in place. Make sure it’s oriented correctly.

Step 4: Close the case back

Re-thread the case back and use the tool to close it; or snap it back on with your hand; or re-thread the battery hatch.

Voila!

You should see your watch ticking happily away now. If not, you may have oriented the battery incorrectly, or you’re using the wrong battery. Worst case: the watch itself is damaged. If this is the case, you may be able to order a new movement for the watch and have a watchmaker replace it — though because quartz movements are so inexpensive, it may be more cost-effective to simply buy a new watch.

If You Only Buy One Dive Watch, Buy This One

Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight, $3,375+

Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight (Pre-owned)

Skip the heavy lifting and go straight to what’s best. Just Get This is our no-nonsense guide to the gear you need, now.

Look, we don’t want to tell you what to do — that’s not our job here at Gear Patrol. But go out and get yourself a Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight. Why? Because we sort of think it’s the perfect watch. Not even the perfect dive watch — just the perfect watch.

For those of you who lust after a Rolex Submariner but can’t stomach the thought of paying over $8,000 for one, there’s the BB58 at less than half that cost. For those of you who desire a well-sized watch that’s still legible but doesn’t dwarf your wrist, there’s the BB58 at 39mm. For those of you who wants something you can wear in the water, when traveling, to the office, or maybe even with a tuxedo (shit, James Bond did it once or twice…), there’s the BB58.

For those of you who appreciate fine watchmaking, the BB58 features an in-house Tudor cal. MT5402, which is chronometer-certified. For those of you who like a good old-fashioned steel bracelet, you can get the BB58 on one of those for $3,800. For those of you who prefer it on a fine leather or fabric strap, you can nab it on one for $3,375. Oh, and it comes in both black/gilt and blue colors.

Do we have to keep going? Fine, we will: here’s more of us waxing poetic on the charms of the BB58, and a few reasons why we think it’s the right watch for you — whoever you are:

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It’s The Perfect Size

Rolex upped its Submariner to 41mm last year. Whyyyyy. They had such a good thing going. Anyway, the BB58 is 39mm. 39mm is just like 40mm, but one better. (“It’s one more loud.“) Seriously, though, this is the Goldilocks size for dive watches. Throw one on and you’ll agree. I haven’t met a single person who’s tried one on who disagrees. Now if we only get them to make a damned 39mm GMT

tudor black bay fifty eight watch

Tudor

It’s Got All The Fixins

In-house movement, chronometer certified. Matching rivet-style bracelet. Awesome-looking snowflake hands and highly legible design. 200m of water resistance. 70 hours of power reserve. Awesome aluminum bezel insert. Oh, and it also tells the time.

It’s Beautiful

I mean, just look at that gorgeous gilt dial. And if that isn’t enough to get your heart racing, then what about that new blue version? Tudor just gets it. Their design team understand proportion, nuance and restraint, and the result is a watch that only an evil step-parent could hate. (I think I got that metaphor backwards, but you get it. The watch is sexy.)

tudor guide

Tudor

It’s Available in Different Versions

For the first two years of its existence, you could only get the BB58 in a black dial with “gilt” printing. If that vintage aesthetic isn’t your thing, however, you can now get your hands on a beautiful blue version with white printing and indices. It’s unique to have both vintage-inspired and modern options within one modern watch reference, and what’s more, you can get either model on different straps.

Tudor

Black Bay Fifty-Eight

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The Best Chronograph Watches Under $5,000

hamilton intramatic chronograph h

Hamilton

Add the stopwatch feature to your typical time-only watch, and you’ve got a chronograph. And yet, this is no simple equation, as chronographs are so much more compelling than the mere sum of their features: they’re sporty and technical looking and filled with history. Most of all, of course, they’re useful. All this and their complexity, however, comes at a price significantly higher than that of their more basic counterparts. The good news is that if $5,000 is your cap, you’re well into the territory of some excellent mechanical chronos.

You are, however, in something of an in-between spot. While there are some value-packed mechanical chronograph watches under $2,000 and plenty of quartz ones in the triple digits, many of the most iconic chronographs like the Omega Speedmaster, Zenith El Primero, Breitling’s various well-known chronograph collections and, of course, the Rolex Daytona are all in the next tier up. It can admittedly be a challenge to find the best watches between $2k and $5k, but the good news that there are compelling options around than ever before. Check out some of our faves:

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Hamilton Intra-Matic Chronograph H

Coming in at just over $2k, the Chronograph H is the latest evolution of Hamilton’s Sixties-inspired Intra-Matic series that we love in all its forms. With a proprietary, manually wound ETA movement, this version feels more mature than ever. The popular “panda dial” style and 40mm case top off a compelling package.

Diameter: 40mm
Movement: ETA H-51 manual
Price: $2,095

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Tissot Heritage 1973

Like its Swatch Group sister brand Hamilton, Tissot is known to offer a hell of a value. As its name suggests, the sporty Heritage 1973 takes inspiration from a historical model. It also offers automatic winding and a unique racing style that’s not easy to find even among today’s many vintage reissues.

Diameter: 43mm
Movement: Valjoux A05.H31 automatic
Price: $2,100

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Fortis Flieger F-43 Bicompax

Amid so much cream-colored lume and midcentury references, Fortis’s series of contemporary-leaning pilot’s watches offer a crisp breath of fresh air. The F-43 Bicompax chronograph, in particular, looks little like anything else on the market and yet offers a classic instrument-like feel at the same time.

Diameter: 43mm
Movement: Sellita SW510 automatic
Price: $3,120

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Longines Avigation BigEye

So named for its asymmetrical dial with one boldly sized subdial alongside two more regular-sized ones, the Longines Avigation BigEye is offbeat-looking in just the right way. The 2021 version, however, takes it a step away from its no-nonsence, black-dialed military roots with a gradient blue dial and the very modern case material of titanium.

Diameter: 41mm
Movement: ETA A08.L01 automatic
Price: $3,225

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Junghans Meister Pilot

Though German watchmaker Junghans gets more attention for its minimalist, Bauhaus watches like the Max Bill, the brand also made a pilot’s watch in the 1950s for the German Armed Forces. The the current version has all the upgraded features expected of a modern watch, like sapphire crystal and automatic winding.

Diameter: 43.3mm
Movement: ETA 2824 automatic w/ Dubois Depraz 2030 chronograph module
Price: $2,495

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The 25 Best Chronograph Watches

Spanning prices from a few hundreds bucks to over $100k, these are our favorite time-writers.

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Sinn 103 St Sa G

Sinn’s 103 chronograph is another classic, utilitarian model that’s receive a contemporary aesthetic treatment. Every bit as tough and functional as previous versions, the latest model has a shimmering metallic-green dial matched to a green aluminum bezel as well as a movement from a less commonly seen maker.

Diameter: 41mm
Movement: Concepto C99001 automatic
Price: $2,530

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Tutima M2 Coastline Chronograph

The Tutima M2 has a hell of a badass look and backstory, with military origins and a whopping 46mm diameter, to boot. That’s why the M2 Coastline series was welcomed by slimmer-wristed individuals for its 43mm case and bracelet made of lightweight titanium.

Diameter: 43mm
Movement: Valjoux 7750 automatic
Price: $3,600

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TAG Heuer Carrera

One of the most iconic chronograph watches of all time is the Heuer Carrera. There have been many variations over the years, and examples like this aren’t the newest, but they still capture the Carrera’s handsome pragmatism well — and they’re still a great choice within the $5k range.

Diameter: 41mm
Movement: ETA 7750 automatic
Price: $4,200

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Frederique Constant Flyback Chronograph Manufacture

Frederique Constant offers features that would typically cost significantly more, such as the in-house chronograph movement with exotic flyback function that powers this watch. It sounds simple, but not having to stop the chronograph before restarting adds significant complexity and, here, remarkable value.

Diameter: 42mm
Movement: Frederique Constant FC-760 automatic
Price: $4,295

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Tudor Black Bay Chrono

For (just) under $5k, you can get a chronograph watch with a fantastic movement from Rolex’s sister brand. Granted, it comes on a strap (as a steel bracelet bumps it over the $5k mark), but this is one of the most compelling values in all of watchdom. The movement is Tudor’s modification of the excellent Breitling B01 — which you can’t even find from Breitling at this price.

Diameter: 41mm
Movement: Tudor MT5813 automatic
Price: $4,900

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A NASA-Branded Velcro Strap for Your Omega Speedmaster? Done

Just when you thought you’d outgrown velcro, along come NASA-branded straps straight from Omega made especially for your Moonwatch. Yes, that loud ripping sound you identify with your first watch just might take on an entirely new appeal when it’s attached to the very same watch models astronauts wore to the moon (and on many other space missions) over the years.

Instead of the long single-pass design that was built to NASA specifications (which was designed to fit over spacesuits), Omega‘s new version has a distinctive two-piece design: The short end features the NASA “meatball” logo, while the longer end has Speedmaster branding. Each attaches to spring bars, and the long end loops through the short end’s keeper. Though quite different from the design of most straps on the market today, it should offer a very precise and comfortable fit.

The famous Moonwatch that accompanied the first humans to the moon in 1969 has been in production (and an irresistible value) ever since. In recent years, however, there have been efforts to offer an ever more faithful and authentic Moonwatch experience; this NASA strap paired with the latest-generation Speedmaster Professional watch featuring its upgraded 3861 movement is arguably as close as a modern watch can get you to those used on the historical space missions.

Omega’s new strap will enhance Moonwatch ownership, but it’s only part of a culture and cottage industry fetishizing the Speedmaster and NASA missions. (For example, you can now even get the Komfit bracelet on which NASA personnel were also known to wear their Speedmasters.) Available only in 20mm widths to fit the Speedmaster’s lugs, the new Omega x NASA straps come in black, white and silver variations, at a price of $190 each.

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The Zenith El Primero Chronograph Never Looked So Good

Zenith Chronomaster Revival El Primero A385, $7,900-$8,400

Key Specs:

Case Diameter: 37mm
Case Depth: 12.6mm
Water Resistance: 50m
Movement: El Primero cal. 400 automatic
Price: $7,900-$,8400

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If you were alive in 1969, the year probably recalls significant cultural and sociopolitical events, such as Woodstock and the Vietnam War. If, however, you’re a weirdo watch nut like I am, you probably also think of the race to develop the first automatic chronograph movement. (I also wasn’t alive in 1969, but that’s neither here nor there.)

Zenith was one of the companies at the fore of this race, hence the name of their now 52-year-old automatic caliber, the El Primero. When El Primero-based watches were first released, customers could choose from several case shapes and dial designs, among which was the tonneau-cased A384 and A385, and the more conventionally round A386. The A385 was unique, however, for its brown fumé dial, which fades in intensity from the rim to the center of the watch.

In reviving these famed references, Zenith has sought to show reverence to the original models by changing as little as possible, and has even brought back the famed “ladder” bracelet to accommodate the A385. But how does this vintage-inspired, tonneau-cased, fumé-dialed beauty stack up? Let’s find out.

zenith

Henry Phillips

Notable

The A835 is absolutely a vintage throwback to the original, hence the full name: the Zenith Chronomaster Revival El Primero A385. Given its dimensions (37mm, just like its namesake), brown fumé dial and ladder bracelet, it would be tough to tell the watch apart from the original at more than a foot or two away. (There are some differences, which we’ll get to in a moment.)

Who It’s For

Whether you’re a Zenith devotee or you simply love the watch’s funky tonneau case or interesting dial, the new A835 remains an attractive proposition. At $7,900 on leather or $8,400 on a strap, it’s certainly not inexpensive, but given today’s luxury market and the truly special timekeeping technology powering the watch, such numbers are to be expected.

Alternatives

If you want to stay with a Zenith product but prefer a newer design, you could do worse than the new Chronomaster Sport ($9,500-$10,000), though you’re going to pay quite a premium for a watch meant to compete with the Rolex Daytona. If you’re looking for another automatic alternative closer to the A385’s price, the 39mm TAG Heuer Monaco ($6,350-$6,750) comes to mind. (Originally powered by the Caliber 11, the Monaco was another of the world’s first automatic chronographs). And though it’s hand-wound, Omega’s newest 3861-powered Speedmaster Professional (another watch first launched decades ago) is a solid alternative, especially at it’s new pricing of $6,300-$7,150 on a redesigned bracelet.

Review

The A385’s resemblance to its namesake is frankly uncanny from almost any angle (with the exception of a view of its case back, which is transparent, to show the movement ticking away inside). Beginning with the steel case, it’s sized like its vintage counterpart at 37mm (a wonderful size), and features a thick, radially brushed bezel with a handsome polished bevel, horizontally brushed sides that angle down sharply to accept the bracelet (or strap), and pump chronograph pushers and a signed Zenith push-pull crown. Personally, I don’t need to see the relatively unadorned El Primero cal. 400 movement and would’ve preferred an option for a solid case back, but that’s just me.

Moving onto the dial, the A835 Revival’s is truly a showstopper and is difficult to tell apart from that of the original save for one detail whose relevance is questionable even to me: It’s been a while since I’ve held a vintage example, but it seems from comparing images that the subdials on old A385s were more of a silver color, possibly with a concentric, brushed surface. The subs on the new A385 are most certainly white. If the original watch had white rather than silver subdials, than this is a spot-on recreation. However, I do have to say that the subs are the one thing that bothers me with the dial — with their flat-white color, they almost look like they were hastily printed from an inkjet, and I wish they had more dimension.

zenith

Henry Phillips

Other than this detail — which, admittedly, may very well only matter to me! — I just love the dial on this watch. The brown fumé treatment is beautiful and so different from that of most sports watches, while the unique El Primero handset only serves to further differentiate it from its contemporaries. That the modern Super-LumiNova lume has been colored on the hands and applied indices doesn’t bother me in the slightest — I think it looks killer — and even that *$%^#$! date window at 4:30 doesn’t kill me, simply because it’s placed where the date was on the original El Primero. (Points are deducted for including it on the Chronomaster Sport, however, which was built from the ground up and doesn’t need to concede to this travesty of design.) An outer tachymeter scale rounds out the look, while a domed sapphire crystal takes the place of the acrylic original.

The El Primero cal. 400, an automatic, in-house movement with 50 hours of power reserve and a hi-beat frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour, is a modernized version of the engine that powered the original A385 from 1969. Here, it too powers a three-register chronograph laid out with running seconds at 9 o’clock, a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock and a 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock (plus the aforementioned date wheel at 4:30). It’s an accurate, high-tech movement that’s weekend-proof (meaning you can put it down late on a Friday night, pick it up on Monday morning and it’ll still be running) and comprises nearly 300 components. The argument against hi-beat watches like this — many modern luxury watches beat closer to 28,800 times per hour — is that their increased frequency puts more friction on parts and thus requires more frequent service, so this is something to keep in mind when considering such a purchase.

One of my complaints about the new Chronomaster Sport was that Zenith didn’t make its iconic ladder bracelet available as a strap option. Of course, for the sake of historicity, said bracelet is absolutely available with the A385, which I love. If you’ve ever held a vintage example of these bracelets, which were made by famed bracelet manufacturer Gay Freres, you can attest to the fact that they’re a fun, funky design, and of course, given when they were made, somewhat janky: at the time, bracelets were made with folded metal links, rather than solid ones, and the clasps were nothing to write home about in terms of security or refinement.

zenith

Henry Phillips

If I had one gripe with the new A385, it would probably be regarding the bracelet: I love that the brand included it as an option, but to my mind, if you’re going to include solid links rather than folded, then you may as well refine the clasp. Though the clasp on the new bracelet is a spitting image of that of the original, down to the placement of the branding, it’s just plain old cheap-feeling — you could accidentally cut yourself on the edge of the fold-over fastener and securing the clasp itself into place isn’t easy. It feels like a clasp on a $200 Seiko, not a nearly $10,000 Zenith. That being said, the solid links are excellent, and the bracelet is certainly comfortable, making for a great wearing experience. (I can’t speak to the comfort of the leather strap, as I only opted to review the bracelet model.)

Verdict

One of the best aspects of the original A385 and A384, to my mind, was the way in which the case shape anticipated the funkiness of 1970s design in the late 1960s: with its unique, tonneau-shaped profile, it catches your eye instantly without being overbearing or sitting on the wrist like a small dinner plate. The dial’s unique look — of which that damned 4:30 date is a part — contributes further to the overall feel of the watch, as does the ladder bracelet, making for an object that’s instantly recognizable from across the room.

Regardless of the angle from which you’re approaching the new A385 — design, technology, horology, etc — this is one cool chronograph. Are there small improvements that would’ve made it simply perfect, to my mind? Sure. But the same could be said of virtually any watch, and wouldn’t prevent me from buying one.

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Omega Just Revamped Its Seamaster 300 Dive Watch

There’s no other way to put it: Omega is hitting it out of the park this year. First, there was the revamped Speedmaster — truly the first Speedmaster I’ve worn that made me think, huh, maybe I really do need one of these. And now, though I haven’t tried one on in person, we have another reimagining of a classic model that has this watch reviewer scratching his head and asking, “Maybe I actually need another dive watch?”

Without further ado: meet the new Omega Seamaster 300 Master Chronometer.

To be sure, this isn’t the first modern throwback to the 1950s/1960s-era Seamaster 300 that the brand has created. Far from it. However, this version is in some ways even more faithful to the original design — or rather, it’s even more faithful to the idea of a vintage watch.

omega seamaster 300 metas

Omega

Let me explain. Whereas the last iteration of the 300 included a modern ceramic bezel, this new one ditches it in favor of more classic aluminum (or “oxalic, anodised-treated aluminium,” in the words of Omega — a highly scratch-resistant variety). It revamps the lollipop second hand, ditches the “Master Co-Axial Chronometer” text on the dial (the new dial simply reads “Omega” and “Seamster 300”), uses vintage Arabic numerals with “open” 6s and 9s, uses vintage-colored lume —and, most interestingly, uses a sandwich dial: a lower plate is filled with blue-glowing Super-LumiNova, above which sits the main dial with cutouts for the indices. (Fans of vintage Panerai, rejoice.) The result, taken as a whole, is pretty spectacular.

Of course, Omega didn’t stop there. Powering the watches is the Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8912 movement with 60 hours of power reserve. (Impressively, the watch is still slimmer than the previous generation; a domed sapphire crystal results in a thickness of 13.85mm for this 41mm-wide diver.) It also features a new conical crown, 300m of water resistance (hence the model name), and it comes in blue or black.

You also have the option of purchasing it on a leather strap ($6,150) or a matching steel bracelet ($6,500). A 21mm lug width means using aftermarket straps might be a bit more tricky, but we don’t see why you wouldn’t want to use Omega’s bracelet; it’s handsome, with brushed center links, polished outer links and a taper from 21mm down to 16mm at the combination polished/brushed clasp.

omega seamaster 300 bronze gold

Omega

Wait, wait, wait, though — there’s more. There’s also a Bronze Gold version. Yes, you read that right: a special version of the watch in a special, patent-pending alloy of bronze and gold (37.5 percent gold, plus palladium, gallium and silver and of course, copper, at roughly 50 percent). Omega developed this unique alloy to add to its already wide-ranging collection of special gold formulations in reference to an ancient Greek bronze alloy that used gold. Typically, modern bronze watches use a titanium or other case back in order to prevent the bronze from coming into contact with the wearer’s skin, which can discolor both skin and watch.

In this case, Omega wanted to formulate an entire watch made out of a single metal, which they did. The Bronze Gold alloy is uniquely resistant to corrosion and though it will patina, it won’t develop verdigris oxidation, that greenish crust that often appears on bronze. Soft pink in color, Bronze Gold was designed to sit somewhere between the brand’s 18K Moonshine and Sedna gold. The watch uses the same open-6-and-9 Arabic numeral as the steel models, but doesn’t feature a lollipop seconds hand, and features a brown ceramic bezel.

The price on this bronze beauty (which comes on a leather strap)? $11,200.

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Everything You Need to Know About Watch Complications

Many watches can do things besides simply telling the time. Whether it’s a stopwatch, a second time zone, an alarm or a range of other features, watchmakers can add functionality in addition to basic timekeeping, which are called complications. These require at least some additional complexity beyond the already intricate mechanical clockwork inside a watch.

Even the common date display can, technically, be considered a complication. Although there’s some variation in how the term is used, it mostly refers to functions that are added to the movement itself — hence, something like a dive watch’s rotating bezel doesn’t typically qualify. (On the other hand, a tourbillon is complicated, but it doesn’t add functionality and is rather a type of escapement rather than a true complication.)

Getting technical? Don’t worry too much, because we’ve gathered the range of common watch complications with clear breakdowns and handy lists of the best examples for your perusal. Below, you can find the complication you’re looking for, understand it in greater depth or just get a broader sense of the fascinating world of horology.

Simplifying Complications: All The Things Your Watch Can Do, Besides Tell the Time

m2w watch complications gear patrol lead full

Julie Kraulis

Many watches can do much more than simply tell the time — here are some common “complications” and what each one does.

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This Is How Calendar Watches Work

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Courtesy

Forget the Apple Watch. Complete, annual and perpetual calendar watches are the original smart watches.

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How a Chronograph Watch Can Actually Make Your Life Easier

how a chronograph watch can make your life easier gear patrol lead full

Henry Phillips

Chronographs are often billed as tools for the racetrack or cockpit, but their true utility is far more pedestrian.

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How a Chronograph Watch Works: Everything You Need to Know

chronograph descontructed

Hunter D. Kelley

The chronograph watch is for a man of action, but its mechanics are subtle and wonderfully complicated.

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How Rolex and the Date Window Changed the Face of Watches

how rolex and the date window changed the face of watches

Rolex

The common 3 o’clock date display window originates from none other than the Rolex Datejust introduced in 1945.

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The GMT Watch, Explained

rolex gmtii

Rolex

The GMT watch is brilliant not because of its complexity but because of its simple ingenuity. Here’s how it works.

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The Moonphase Watch, Explained

omega speedmaster coax moonphase gear patrol lead full

Henry Phillips

A moonphase watch reminds us that we’re all just spinning through space on this pale blue dot, orbited by a glowing rock, mere cogs in a bigger clockwork.

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This Unique Vintage Watch Offers a Complication You’ve Never Seen

dalil monte carlo muslim watch gear patrol lead full

eBay

These watches from the 1970s provided their intended customers with a reference for when to pray, and in which direction.

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Travel in Style with These Seven Incredible World Time Watches

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World time watches allow you to see the current time in any place in the world with just a quick glance at your wrist.

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What the Hell Is a Minute Repeater Watch?

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Image provided by A. Lange & Söhne / Lange Uhren GmbH 2020

Repeater watches occupy a special place in the hearts of watch enthusiasts.

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A Quick Guide To The Power Reserve Indicator

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A brief explanation of this unique complication and what it does.

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U.S. Presidents Relied on This Innovative Alarm Watch

watches you should know vulcain cricket gear patrol lead full

Vulcain

The Vulcain Cricket pioneered fascinating technical solutions, a mechanical alarm, and was the choice of mountain climbers and U.S.

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