Watches

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Now’s Your Chance to Buy a Little-Known Dive Watch Once Used by the French Navy

Though most of the world’s significant military watches are by now well documented by the collector community, there remain several lurking in the wings that rarely get the attention they deserve. One could argue that the Jacques Bianchi JB 200 is one such timepiece.

Developed in the south of France by craftsman Jacques Bianchi in the mid-1980s under his own name, the original JB 200 features a 42mm steel case in “destro” configuration (left-hand crown), 200m of water resistance and a French quartz movement. Uniquely, a silhouette of a diver graced the black dial. Limited at first to 100 pieces, the watch was eventually purchased by the French National Marine Department for use by clearance divers and personnel from the local naval air base.

Courtesy

Rather than rest upon his laurels, Jacques Bianchi (at over 80 years old) has decided to resurrect his one-time naval dive watch for a civilian audience. The new diver, while largely a recreation of the original JB200, features several upgrades: it’s now powered by a Seiko NH35 automatic movement in place of the original’s quartz movement; the old tritium lume has been replaced by Super-LumiNova; and the watch’s indices have been upsized slightly for better legibility. It will still ship on a Tropic-style rubber strap, much as the original did.

Should this military diver pique your interest, head on over to the Jaques Bianchi website for more information. A Kickstarter campaign will launch June 15th, when you’ll be able to put a deposit down for the JB 200 and grab a piece of (reimagined) French diving history. (For international buyers, Kickstarter pricing will be 495 EUR — or ~$600 — without taxes or shipping. The post-Kickstarter retail price will be 825 EUR, or ~$1,000.)

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June 14, 2021 / Comments Off

216

How Moon Phase Watches Work, and Why They’re Special

Timekeeping was born out of man’s desire to make sense of the movement of the sun, the moon and the constellations. When the early horologists graduated from the sundial to gears and hands, one of the important events they tracked was the lunar cycle. This is because although the sun’s arc dictates days and seasons, observing the moon was the first method of telling the passing of months. From new moon to full moon and back again is 29 and a half days, providing a regular cycle that has been the life cycle for any number of things over the centuries, from pagan celebrations to paychecks.

A moon phase watch shows the current phase of the moon as you see it in the sky. As our orbiting pet rock passes across the sky, so too does its miniature version in the watch travel around, displayed in an aperture on the dial. This type of watch is perhaps the most elemental in its graphical representation of the passage of time, as opposed to the more precise and sterile hands and numbers that other complications use. It is a more whimsical and artistic complication, one that is fun to own, linking us with our sky-watching ancestors and a lineage of watchmakers and artisans all at once.

A “moon phase” is the lighted area of the moon that is visible as it travels around the earth. The movement of the Earth and the moon’s position relative to us means that we are constantly seeing a different view. While astronomers have several names for the appearance of the moon throughout its cycle — “waxing gibbous” to “waning crescent” and others in between — there are really only four phases you need to know:

Christopher Ward

A “new moon” occurs when the moon and sun are in alignment on the same side of the Earth and thus there is no moon visible to us. As the moon travels through its monthly orbit, more of its surface becomes illuminated by the sun — known poetically as “waxing”. The second phase, known as the “first quarter”, is when the right-hand side of the moon is in the sun’s light. Next comes the “full moon” when the entire surface is lit up. Then it moves to the “last quarter” when the left-hand side is visible — waning — until it finally goes back to a new moon again.

This entire cycle of phases takes 29 and a half days, which is the average length of our calendar month. Given the moon’s regular movement, it is logical then that our modern calendar is tied to the phases of the moon. Thanks to some ancient Roman political and religious fiddling, days were added or subtracted days to certain months, which is why our 12 months aren’t all 29 and a half days. Besides, can you imagine starting a new month at noon on day 30?

The moon has always played a major role in man’s movements and daily existence, from the ebb and flow of tides to religious ceremonies, crop harvests and maritime navigation, which is why it has always been historically important to keep track of its orbit. Though the phases of the Moon were tracked thousands of years ago in crude fashion, the moon phase was commonly found in the more complicated pocket watches in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. When the pocket watch made way for the wristwatch, so too did the moon phase migrate to the wrist. The moon phase really represents the watchmaker’s connection to time itself; it is a sort of miniature version of the gear train that is our universe.

jaquet droz grande seconde moon anthracite

Hodinkee Shop

Behind the dial of a typical moon phase watch is a disc with two identical moons on it. This disc rotates one complete cycle every twenty-nine and a half days, with the waxing and waning face of the moon accounted for by the curved edges of the dial aperture. The moon disc is driven by a 59-tooth gear that is advanced one notch by a mechanical finger every 24 hours, thus corresponding to one full rotation for the entire lunar cycle — almost.

In reality, the moon isn’t this cooperative. The true lunar cycle lasts 29 days, 12 hours and 44 minutes, or 29.53 days. While this accuracy is good enough for the average person, watchmakers are a precise lot and not content with rounding up or down. Being off by .03 days per month means that the entire moon phase cycle will be off by one full day every two years, seven and a half months. To overcome the discrepancy between the measured lunar cycle and the actual moon phases, a more sophisticated mechanism was developed that incorporates a 135-tooth gear to drive the moon disc. This improvement increases the accuracy of the movement so that the moon phase complication will only be off by a day once every 122 years, meaning that your grandson might need to do some adjustment, hopefully remembering your generosity when he does.

Our lives may no longer be tied as closely to the moon’s orbit, just as the wristwatch has largely become an anachronism in this age of smart phones and smartwatches. Which makes it all the more fitting to own a moon phase watch: its timeless charm and whimsical artistry remind us that we’re all just spinning through space on this pale blue dot, orbited by a glowing rock, mere cogs in a bigger clockwork.

9 Great Moonphase Watches

Christopher Ward

Christopher Ward C1 Moonglow

christopherward.com

$1,995.00

Independent British brand Christopher Ward is known for its high bang-for-buck watches, and its C1 Moonphase is an example of one of the most captivating and affordable examples of this complication. Whereas most watchmakers will tuck a moonphase display into a discrete subdial, here it fully occupies half the dial. Even cooler is that it’s drenched in lume to glow brightly, while the lower half of the dial is tinted sapphire so the other side of the moon phase disk is also visible for a striking look.

Frederique Constant Geneve

Frederique Constant Slimline Moonphase Manufacture

frederiqueconstant.com

$3,995.00

Frederique Constant hangs its hat on building conservatively styled dress watches with complications and in-house movements at highly competitive prices. This alone makes its Slimline Moonphase Manufacture attractive, but as its name indicates, this is also a reasonably thin watch at 11.3mm thick and 42mm in diameter. Taking the popular and intuitive approach of combining the date and moon phase in a subdial at 6 o’clock, it’s powered by the brand’s own FC-705 automatic movement.

Courtesy

Montblanc Star Legacy Moonphase

montblanc.com

$4,300.00

If you want a traditional take on the moonphase, Monblanc feels like the right kind of brand to do it. Housed in their Star Legacy collection, this is no off-the-shelf design and shows that the brand’s conservative side doesn’t lack personality. It includes a Sellita SW200 automatic movement with a moonphase module by Dubois-Depraz, a fascinating guilloché pattern emanating from the brand’s star logo, and it all comes in a 42mm case made of sterling silver.

Ochs und Junior

Ochs und Junior Moon Phase

ochsundjunior.swiss

$7,400.00

Ochs und Junior prides itself on building “rigorously simple watches,” and its Moon Phase is a testament to this philosophy. Built upon the ubiquitous ETA 2824-2 automatic movement, the moon phase function looks overly simplistic but is actually the most accurate one available; in 3,478.27 years, it will only be off by one day. The watch’s dial and case are typically industrial, bordering on the elemental, but the latest versions come alive with strikingly vibrant colors.

Courtesy

Cartier Ballon Bleu Moonphase

cartier.com

$7,700.00

Cartier might be associated with Roman numerals and formal styles, but their designs are anything but boring. With a highly unusual interpretation of the moon phase complication, the display’s placement at 9 o’clock is unexpected but maintains a sense of balance with the unique crown design characteristic of the Ballon Bleu collection. Powered by an automatic movement, its 37mm case with short lugs should be highly wearable for a range of wrist sizes.

Hodinkee Shop

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Co-Axial Master Chronometer Moonphase Chronograph

hodinkee.com

$10,600.00

The Speedmaster Professional was the first watch worn on the moon, so it’s fitting that Omega fitted a version of its iconic chronograph with a moon phase complication. The brilliant blue dial is matched to a moon disc, and the date function is integrated into the 9 o’clock seconds sub dial. These differences don’t diminish the watch’s legendary utility; it’s powered by a METAS-certified Master Chronometer automatic movement and is 44.25mm in width. We think NASA would still approve.

Hodinkee Shop

Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Moon Anthracite

hodinkee.com

$15,200.00

Jaquet Droz’s signature, elegant figure-eight dial is only elevated by a moonphase that fits right into the overall design. The Grande Seconde Moon Anthracite is descriptively named with the larger subdial housing a sweeping seconds hand, date display and moon phase, while the hours and minutes are indicated by the smaller dial above it. The blue hands and moon phase disk contrast brilliantly against the sandblasted anthracite dial, and it’s all powered by an in-house movement in a 43mm steel case.

Courtesy

Arnold & Son Luna Magna

arnoldandson.com

$43,900.00

Arnold & Son has long stood out in the moon phase game for its Perpetual Moon watch which did the whole giant moon phase display well before others (like Christopher Ward above). It’s newest moon phase watch, however, takes a totally different approach, with the phase of the moon displayed via an actual orb which is half white marble and half aventurine glass. You can even see the other side of the orb through the case back, along with a secondary display for a more precise reading of the current phase as well as the beautiful in-house, manually wound movement.

Courtesy

Moser Endeavour Perpetual Moon

h-moser.com

$43,900.00

Moser’s always got a statement to make or artistic concept that seems to invite interpretation. Here, an aventurine dial employs its natural resemblance to a deep blue, starry sky. The view is unobstructed by indices for reading the time, leaving only a pair of hands and a moon phase display at 6 o’clock. The moon phase complication is regularly described as “poetic” and “romantic,” but here it feels more appropriate a word choice than ever. As long as you keep the manually wound movement ticking, the in-house movement promises that the phases of the moon won’t need adjustment for 1,027 years.

June 14, 2021 / Comments Off

273

With Citizen’s Vast Selection of Watches There Is Something for Everyone

For over 100 years, Citizen has been synonymous with technical precision, quality craftsmanship and design excellence. Today, the brand continues to create timepieces that are modern, sustainable and support an active lifestyle. Whether you’re looking for a gift to mark a special occasion or just something new to complement your wardrobe, Citizen has you covered. The brand’s watches are powered by Eco-Drive technology — which isn’t your standard watch power source. With Eco-Drive, Citizen watches can be powered by any available light source, continuously and sustainably, eliminating the need to replace watch batteries. Plus, in an effort to meet Citizen’s goal of zero-carbon emissions by 2050, one percent of all web purchases will be donated to 1% For The Planet.

Citizen Promaster AQUALAND & MX

The Promaster collection of watches is perfect for the everyday adventurer. From SCUBA diving to spending weeks on the trail, these timepieces are the ultimate adventure buddy. These sports watches can perform across air, land, and sea, and offer high levels of functionality and durability.

Promaster AQUALAND

Citizen

$795.00

This powerful Promaster AQUALAND has a black polyurethane band, stainless steel with DLC case and a black dial with red accents. It’s loaded with advanced features like a handy chronograph function, the ability to show time in 12- or 24-hour formats, a maximum depth memory complication and a power reserve indicator so you never have to wonder how much power you have left. Plus, with a water resistance rating of up to 200 meters, this is the perfect watch for a casual day at the beach or serious SCUBA diving.

Citizen

Promaster MX

Citizen

$575.00

Designed for sport racing enthusiasts, the Promaster MX features strong elements like a bold steel case with green and yellow accents that evoke images of racing and days at the track. The 43mm, stainless steel case houses a chronograph complication, perpetual calendar and the ability to show two time zones simultaneously.

Citizen

Promaster Nighthawk

Citizen

$495.00

This timepiece was designed to capture the sleek, sophisticated lines of a stealth helicopter. The olive green leather strap was inspired by military uniforms and the black dial evokes a cockpit at night. Plus with a slide rule bezel, Eco-Drive technology and dual time zone functionality, this watch is the ultimate adventure companion.

Citizen

Promaster Tsuno Chronograph Racer

This timepiece is a modernized version of a retro 1973 Citizen Bullhead model. The Tsuno Chrono Racer features a unique case design with a 1/5-second chronograph layout, which moves the pushers from the right-hand side of the watch to the top. The Tsuno is powered by a hand-assembled movement, and also comes with an alarm and date function. The watch is striking, and will certainly be a conversation starter when strapped to your wrist.

Citizen

Citizen Technology Collections

If style and technology are more your speed, look no further than Citizen’s Technology Collections. These watches offer incredible style and quality, and in the case of the Super Titanium™, an added punch of durability. The PCAT models with atomic timekeeping are perfect if you travel the world and want to make sure you always have the right time, or if you are diving to the depths of the ocean to explore, the GPS Satellite Wave dive model is just right for you. If you want something more unique, check out the Titanium Armor — a refined and sleek watch that makes the perfect weekend accessory.

PCAT

Citizen

$650.00

The feature that sets the PCAT apart from other watches is its atomic timekeeping function that offers synchronized time adjustment in 43 cities across the globe. But beyond that, the sleek package also comes with Citizen’s proven Eco-Drive technology, a perpetual calendar, power reserve indicator and a chronograph.

Citizen

Super Titanium™ Armor

Citizen

$550.00

With a Super Titanium™ band and case accented by a black dial, this bold and sleek timepiece will stand out from the crowd. The Super Titanium™ is made using a three-piece case design, making it a truly premium pick. Plus, it’s water-resistant to 100M which is plenty for everyday wear and swimming.

Citizen

PCAT

Citizen

$675.00

This timepiece is the definition of sporty elegance, with a timeless style that can be effortlessly dressed up or down. The modern design of the PCAT, which includes a blue dial, 43mm two-tone rose gold stainless steel case and a two-tone stainless steel bracelet as well as a chronograph function, is a perfect example of Citizen’s classic collection.

Citizen

Satellite Wave GPS Dive

Citizen

$1,395.00

Like the Super Titanium™ Armor, the Satellite Wave GPS is also made from Citizen’s durable Super Titanium™ with DLC coating, but the watch has more to offer than just resilience to wear and tear. It’s the world’s first light-powered watch with GPS satellite capabilities and a 200-meter water-resistance rating. The watch also puts diver safety first, with a specific dive mode that ceases all functions except the time display. This prevents accidental user errors like initiating one of the watch’s other features.

Citizen

Citizen CZ Smart

Citizen

CZ Smart

Citizen

$395.00

Inspired by Citizen’s iconic sport technical timepieces, the new CZ Smart marries modern technology with style and quality. The sport edition features a color touchscreen dial and black anodized aluminum top ring, framed and finished with a gunmetal, ion-plated stainless steel case and bracelet. The watch is powered by Google’s Wear OS and is compatible with both iPhone and Android phones to fit your lifestyle.

June 9, 2021 / Comments Off

228

This Is the Perfect Compromise Between Dive and Field Watch

Unimatic

You’re probably not going to improve on the concept of a basic tool watch by adding a lot to it. Boutique Italian microbrand Unimatic understands this, and their approach of simplifying and refining traditionally utilitarian watch styles even further has underpinned their success. The brand’s fourth and most recent watch collection is the U4, or Modello Quattro, and it takes another step in the reductionist direction that the brand’s already minimalist watches began. By subtracting, you end up with somehow more than a tool watch, as the U4 is eminently affordable with a hell of a look, to boot.

Key Specs:

Case Diameter: 40mm
Case Depth: 13.9mm
Water Resistance: 300m
Movement: Seiko NH35A automatic
Price: ~$515

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Notable

Unimatic’s debut offering, the U1 (or Modello Uno), was a strikingly pared down version of a dive watch, and the U4 is a pared down version of that, both in terms of aesthetics and functionality: Instead of a rotating diver’s bezel, it’s got a fixed bezel executed in plain steel with no markings. The result is a robustly built watch with an understated but sleek style. With a basic Seiko automatic movement inside, it’s also in the affordable range of automatic sport watches.

Who It’s For

Unimatic is straight-up one of the hippest watch brands around, generally appealing to a younger, design- and budget-conscious crowd. Though the brand stays true to the tool watch ethos with solid specs and build quality that’d surely hold up in the field, its appeal is more military-chic than that of a true “beater.” The U4 will satisfy the watch nerd that obsesses over design, fetishizes ruggedness and appreciates its under-the-radar, in-the-know status that the Italian brand has cultivated.

Zen Love

Alternatives

It’s hard to think of many watches that can be directly compared with the U4. With an aesthetic/use case parked firmly between a dive watch (like the Unimatic U1) and a field watch (Unimatic U2), the U4’s ideal owner might be interested in either of those broad genres, or neither. So what does the U4 offer specifically? A general tool watch with a minimalist, military-inspired design. That exact combination of elements might be hard to pin down, but there are some other options in the same price range:

Visually, the Victorinox INOX ($495+) has a similarly chunky footprint with a bold bezel and crown guards that take it in a more modern direction than the average field watch. It comes in a range of colors and iterations, including different case materials, as well as quartz and automatic options. What it lacks is Unimatic’s design sensibility and personality.

In a more traditional field-watch vein is Hamilton’s Khaki Field King that offers a slimmer profile and Swiss automatic movement starting at a retail price of $575. In the dive watch realm, a Seiko Samurai has some visual similarity with its angular case and can often be found for less than its retail price of $525.

Zen Love

Review

The Unimatic U4 is almost a dive watch. Although it’s 300m water-resistant and features the same case and bezel profile as the brand’s U1 diver, the bezel is devoid of markings and doesn’t turn. We’re left with a wearing experience that’s like that of a dive and a field watch at the same time, and yet neither.

Maybe we don’t have to worry about exactly what to call it aside from a handsome, affordable, rugged and downright stylish casual watch. Its specs and pragmatic design make the U4 reassuringly robust, but Unimatic ultimately stands out most for its tasteful design sense and the buzz that surrounds it.

Yes, the young brand’s production runs regularly sell out quickly, with models often trading on the secondhand market for above retail prices. Limited-edition, sometimes quirky collaborations further paint Unimatic as a phenomenon in the watch and fashion spaces — the brand’s “Made in Italy” angle doesn’t hurt their image, either.

Zen Love

In other words, Unimatic is one of the hottest microbrands around, and its popularity is built on a solid foundation of value and the principles that make classic sport watches themselves so enduring. The U4 feels solid and is highly legible, with a simple and clear dial with plenty of contrast and C3 Super-LumiNova that glows a pale green in the dark — though more brightly on the hands than on the indices.

Unimatic’s own website doesn’t blow smoke in your face about their simple formula and calls this Modello Quatro (U4) a “military take on the iconic Modello Uno” (U1). Its military theme is expressed through its generally stark, brutalist design, but is most overtly communicated by the olive-green nylon strap paired to its black dial. It nails the look, but I found the included strap slightly uncomfortable and immediately started wearing the U4 more often after switching it to a soft, green seatbelt-style NATO from B&R Bands ($25).

The U4 was made to be worn with a strap like this, but NATOs do tend to add bulk — and though measuring only 40mm in diameter, the case’s chunky proportions further amplify its presence: the bezel stands high from the case middle and the case back extends below. Slim-wristed wearers might want to try it on a two-piece leather or rubber strap to cut down on its height and visual heft.

unimatic u4 glow in the dark feature of watch

Zen Love

An overall angular design also makes it sit prominently on the wrist, and a closer examination of its all-brushed surfaces reveals some interesting details, with the bezel itself boasting multiple facets. The crown has a grippy texture and is decorated with a cool design. The same mix of stark elements and thoughtful design characterizes the dial: instead of the typical positioning of the brand name at 12 o’clock, placing it at 6 o’clock leaves the rest of the dial feeling very open — and somewhat reminiscent of unbranded vintage military watches.

“Simple, tough and functional” seems to describe Unimatic’s design approach, and it also describes pretty well the automatic movement they chose to power the U4: With a 41-hour power reserve, the Seiko NH35 is the same as the 4R35 that’s found reliably driving many modern Seiko watches in collections like Presage and Prospex. You really can’t complain about it, as more premium offerings such as the Miyota 9015 (and related) or Swiss movements would inevitably drive up the price.

Verdict

You’re going to get respect from watch guys and style-savvy types with something like the Unimatic U4 on your wrist, but even without that validation it should prove a fun and capable watch for those attracted to the aesthetic. It also does all this for not a ton of cash, and this reviewer’s respect for it grew over the time spent wearing it. It’s impressive that Unimatic makes such a classic style and simplified design actually stand out in a crowded space.

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June 9, 2021 / Comments Off

299

Seiko Should Bring Back its Classic, Affordable Field Watch

Seiko‘s sub-$100 automatic field watch is an unlikely icon. The Seiko 5 SNK, in all its color variations, is smallish and unflashy, with a military-inspired design and a very basic mechanical movement. But its ubiquity, quality, cool look and laughably low price have made it the starter mechanical watch for many an eventual collector, and a cult classic. Problem is, it’s not part of Seiko’s current collection.

As Seiko rereleases and reimaginines popular watches from decades past, why not bring the humble SNK back next?

Currently, the SNK line exists in a weird kind of limbo state. While still easily purchased online along with other inexpensive Seiko watches of recent decades, it appears that the collection is no longer produced. That would make sense as Seiko has made efforts to refine its image and move upmarket, but it also represents an opportunity.

It’s kind of hard to overstate this little watch’s outsized cultural presence: it’s loved and respected, but is also endlessly the subject of ironic memes. In many ways, it represents the extreme end of Seiko’s reputation from past decades for solidly built, high-bang-for-buck watches anyone could afford. The SNK is a core part of Seiko’s identity which should be embraced, and there’s a place for it in the modern brand’s lineup.

As Seiko began moving significantly upmarket in recent years, some fans worried the brand was straying from the everyman persona they’d fallen in love with. The recently relaunched Seiko 5 Sport line, however, is a model for Seiko to continue to make excellent, inexpensive automatic watches. It’s also an example for how the company can transform popular lines of the past — in this case, the Seiko 5 Sports collection and the classic SKX dive watch — into modern products that better fit the brand’s now more polished image.

A modern SNK wouldn’t be the first Seiko watch with a reputation as an inexpensive beater to be relaunched to enthusiasts’ delight. Seiko is actually good at listening to what its fans want and, like the rest of the industry, they’ve been resurrecting vintage watches left and right — many of them less well known than the SNK. The familiarity and existing buzz around the watch are surely enough to make an updated model land with a splash.

Seiko 5 SNK Watches on eBay

Seiko 5 SNK805

Seiko ebay.com

$105.00

Appropriately army green.

Seiko 5 SNK809

Seiko ebay.com

$97.22

The classic black SNK809.

Seiko 5 SNK809 on Bracelet

Seiko ebay.com

$108.99

On a steel bracelet? Why not?

Seiko 5 SNK807

Seiko ebay.com

$105.00

There’s blue, too! Collect ’em all!

The challenge, as with any reissue, is keeping it recognizable and true to the original while upgrading enough to justify its existence. Seiko’s modern movements such as the 4R36 (which is found in the new Seiko 5 Sports) are a great place to start. Hand-winding and hacking make the 4R36 feel instantly more modern. Stick close to the awesome dial and handset design, keep the matte-finished case in a size around the original’s 37mm diameter, give it a slightly bigger 4 o’clock crown, throw it on a NATO strap — and you’ve got a winner.

The SNK is simply a classic that shouldn’t be out of production. An affordable new field watch-style beater couldn’t be priced quite as dirt-cheap as the original, and Seiko might need to wait for the current stock of SNKs to start disappearing from Amazon and the like. But around $250 for full MSRP? That sounds plausible, and I’d be the first customer.

June 8, 2021 / Comments Off

249

Want a Breitling Navitimer? Here Are 3 Worthy Alternatives That Won’t Cost as Much

The Breitling Navitimer has been the quintessential aviation watch for over 60 years, and it’s the watch that many people imagine when they think of a “pilot’s chronograph.” A captivatingly busy dial with its jumble of subdials and scales makes this watch instantly recognizable and one of the most iconic watches of all time. It’s full of history with a technical look and bold, eye-catching presence all at once, and it makes you feel ready to grip the controls of fighter plane.

As you likely already know, however, a watch like the Navitimer is more than a tool: it’s a Swiss watchmaking masterpiece and a luxury statement that may be out of reach for many people. While Breitling makes its own affordable alternative in the form of the three-hand, time-only Navitimer 1 watch that starts around $4,400, the Navitimer that everyone knows is a chronograph. With a sourced automatic chronograph movement, you’ll pay upward of $6,000 from Breitling, but with the brand’s in-house B01 movement you’ll be starting at over $8,000.

But not to fret, as there are some great ways to get a similar experience for a fraction of the cost. Here are three of the best:

Drop

Seiko SNA411 Flight Alarm Chronograph

amazon.com

$245.00

“For $200, this is a hell of a watch.” That’s probably been said about countless Seiko watches, but it’s no less true of the “Flight Alarm” or “Flightmaster” SNA411. Its resemblance to the Navitimer is clear, with a chronograph layout, slide rule scales and notched bezel, but it’s got a charm of its own that’s made it one of Seiko’s many cult classics. You can set a second time zone as well as an alarm on the subdial at 6 o’clock, and of course you can expect highly reliable and accurate time-telling and chronograph functionality from the Seiko quartz movement inside.

Movement: Seiko 7T62 quartz
Diameter: 42mm
Water Resistance: 200m

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Hamilton

Hamilton Khaki Aviation Converter Auto

hamiltonwatch.com

$1,095.00

In its three-hand iteration, the Hamilton Khaki Aviation Converter is an excellent budget analog to Breitling’s own Navitimer 1 collection. It also comes in GMT and chronograph versions (both larger at 44mm), and the chronograph has the 6-9-12 subdial layout associated with movements like the ETA 7750 that’s found on some Navitimers — but it’s not quite as classic or symmetrical as the Navitimer 3-6-9 configuration. You’re still getting all the Swiss quality Hamilton typically offers, as well as features and aesthetics that just might scratch that Navitimer itch.

Movement: ETA C07.111 automatic
Diameter: 42mm
Water Resistance: 100m

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Sinn

Sinn 903 St

watchbuys.com

$3,520.00

Sinn legitimately bought the rights to the Navitimer dial design in the 1980s as the Quartz Crisis was in full swing and Breitling was in financial trouble. The vintage Sinn 903 watches are themselves sought after, but the brand has continued to tweak and produce its version of the Navitimer up to the present day. One notable element that’ll help you spot the difference right away between a Navitimer and a 903 is that Sinn’s interpretation has a crown at 10 o’clock for turning the inner rotating bezel (where as Breitling’s bezel is directly manipulated), as well as a 41mm case.

Movement: La Joux-Perret 8000 automatic
Diameter: 41mm
Water Resistance: 100m

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June 7, 2021 / Comments Off

221

Seiko’s Tough New Quartz Dive Watch Is No Cheap “Beater”

If you want the toughest, most purpose-built dive watch you can find, look no further than the Seiko “Tuna.” And if your reasons for getting the legendary diver are truly practical (presumably it’s not for its elegant aesthetics), quartz is the way to go. Just because these are quartz-powered and made to withstand abuse, however, doesn’t mean that a model like the new reference S23635 is anything like a cheap “beater.”

Seiko’s first hardcore dive watch that would later be nicknamed the “Tuna,” due to its can-like case shape, was introduced in 1975, and the first quartz version came out in 1986. Now, 35 years later, Seiko is marking that very specific quartz anniversary with a new, relatively high-end limited edition. Officially called the Prospex 1986 Quartz Diver’s 35th Anniversary Limited Edition, it’s full of premium features and new details.

Many Seiko watches featuring the Tuna Can case design look similar in pictures but, confusingly, often have different measurements — for example, the new S23635 measures 49.4mm wide and long, as well as 16.3mm thick. These dimensions sound chunky, but the design’s lack of lugs makes it surprisingly wearable, and lightweight materials used in this limited-edition version make it even easier on the wrist: the case is in titanium and the outer “shroud” is zirconia ceramic.

Visually most notable about the new Tuna is a dial that fades from dark blue to black, reminiscent of diving deep into the ocean — but also of Rolex’s Deepsea Sea Dweller. Other new design features include a yellow crown stem to alert the wearer when the crown is unscrewed, as well as yellow “lock” text on the crown with an arrow indicating the direction for screwing it in to ensure its 1,000m water resistance. The 7C46 movement inside is was designed by Seiko expressly for use in dive watches and made using exclusively metal components.

This is a lotta watch, but if you want Seiko’s ultimate tough diver, it won’t come at the prices of the affordable “Turtle” and “Samurai” watches we all love: Available from July 2021, there will only be 1,200 examples made for this limited edition at $2,600 each.

Courtesy

Before ceramic watches were popular, IWC created the all-black 3705 chronograph. It bombed upon release but later became a grail among collectors. This modern re-creation updates the case to a 41mm version in Ceratanium, the brand’s proprietary ceramic-and-titanium material, and includes an in-house, automatic movement in place of the original Valjoux 7750.

Diameter: 41mm

Movement: IWC 69380 automatic

Price: $11,900

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June 4, 2021 / Comments Off

325

Review: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono

Tudor Black Bay Chronograph, $4,900+

We know, we know — this is far from the first Black Bay Chrono you’ve come across on the pages of Gear Patrol, or elsewhere: there were black ones, special ones, steel and gold ones, etc. We get it. But this one is different.

This one resurrects the “panda” dial and the “reverse-panda” dial, classic, mid-century configurations that represent the pinnacle of chronograph aesthetics. Also — this version is thinner than past versions, which is welcome news for those of you with slimmer wrists, or who simply prefer the look and feel of vintage models. Let’s dive right in.

Key Specs:

Case Diameter: 41mm
Case Depth: 14.4mm
Water Resistance: 200m
Movement: Tudor Cal. MT5813 (COSC)
Price: $4,900+

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Notable

The two new models — panda (white with black sub-registers) and reverse-panda (black with white sub-registers) — are each available in three configurations: on bracelet, on a “Bund”-style leather strap, and on a fabric strap. This gives the user a choice of two different price points as well as different band options. The case size has also been slimmed down somewhat to 14.4mm, which, while still chunky, is thinner that that of previous iterations. In short, this is a handsome, classically inspired take on the midcentury chronograph that should provide a great alternative to sister brand Rolex’s Daytona. It also stands well on its own.

The white “panda” dial in all its Daytona-inspired glory.

Henry Phillips

Who It’s For

If you want a Daytona but you can’t find one, or you can’t afford one, or you don’t wanna be yet another dude wearing a Daytona, then this is the watch for you. If you dig midcentury chronograph aesthetics — especially the whole “panda” dial thing — then this watch is for you. If you just like chunkier, hefty tool watches, then this watch is for you. If you like to time things, like pasta boiling on the stove or how long you can stand on your head, then this watch is for you. In short: this is a watch for many, many different types of people.

Alternatives

Well, you could go for a Daytona. (LOL.) If you can get your hands on one of those in steel at retail, it’ll set you back $13,150. Despite a price difference of over 2x, there are still a fair number of similarities: sizing, dial configurations, in-house movements, etc. Though of course the Daytona uses a triple-register layout and leaves out the date.

Zenith’s Chronomaster Sport is a page out of the old Daytona book, and thus a good alternative to the BB Chrono — though it’ll run you $10,000 on a bracelet. Moving a bit downmarket but sticking with the dual-register-plus-date configuration, we’ve got the Intra-Matic Auto Chrono from Hamilton for $2,195, though it comes on a leather strap. The layout and similarities in look are striking, however. Another good reverse-pandal option is Yema’s Speedgraf, an awesome, affordable mechanical chrono with a dual-register layout and an uncommon movement from Seiko. They’re about $1,500.

Review

We’re talking about a 41mm chronograph with a 14.4mm depth and, on my review model, a matching steel bracelet. So first things first: this thing has some heft to it. And that’s welcome, frankly — a svelte, dressy Patek 1463 or 1518 this most certainly ain’t, but you also don’t have to worry about banging it around.

The exciting upgrade to the BB Chrono is two new dials in panda and reverse-panda configurations, so let’s start there. And what’s with the whole bear-themed thing, you ask? Well, a “panda” dial just indicates a white dial in which the sub-registers are black; a “reverse-panda” is the opposite. (You can no doubt guess why in both cases.) In the case of the review model I have here, we’re talking about a panda configuration.

A running seconds counter at 9 o’clock and a 45-minute counter at 3 o’clock adorn the dial.
Henry Phillips

And a handsome panda dial it is: we’ve got applied, lume-filled dot indices and “snowflakes” hands — a handset unique to Tudor watches — plus two registers (one for running seconds at 9 o’clock and one 45-minute counter at 3 o’clock) in addition to a recessed date window at 6 o’clock and a minute and 1/5th-second track around the dial edge. Then there’s an outer black tachymeter scale with silver printing, and some branding on the dial. (The water resistance rating is printed in red, for a nice, vintage Rolex-inspired touch.) A domed sapphire crystal tops it all off.

Both crown and pushers screw down for 200m of water resistance.
Henry Phillips

Of course, given that Tudor is Rolex’s sister company, we have handsome case-work: the steel case features nicely beveled edges, brushed tops and polished sides, plus a largely blank case back that’s perfect for engraving. (The case is not punched, meaning there are no lug holes — you have to get a spring bar tool behind the lugs in order to swap straps.) On the right side of the case is a large, screw-down crown and two screw-down pushers, ensuring water resistance of 200m.

The “rivet”-style bracelet is well built, and a blank case back perfect for engraving.
Henry Phillips

And the matching bracelet? Everything you need and nothing you don’t: it’s a brushed, “rivet”-style strap, vintage inspired but featuring a modern clasp and three micro-adjustment positions. I can’t speak to the other two strap options, but to my mind, one should almost always buy the bracelet-equipped version and then spring for extra straps – which are relatively inexpensive — later.

The thing about a chronograph with screw-down pushers is that, to operate the chrono, you have to, you know, unscrew the pushers — which is much easier done with the watch-off wrist. Once you do operate the chronograph on this particular watch, it’s oh-so buttery smooth, courtesy of the in-house Tudor cal. MT5813 (COSC) developed in conjunction with Breitling, which provides 70 hours of power reserve. Of course, you could leave the pushers unscrewed if you, like me, actually use your wristwatch to time stuff fairly often. You just have to be cognizant of water ingress.

Verdict

Ok, so here are my honest feelings about this watch, which, for better or worse, mirror my feelings for many other watches: I love it, but I still feel like it’s slightly too big.

Yes, yes, I know — the case depth has been shrunk down to 14.4mm on this version. (Thank you, Tudor.) And the thing wears great in short sleeves, I must say. I checked out my wrist in the mirror like some vain psychopath just to make sure.

But I don’t want a 14+mm-tall watch, nor do I necessarily want a 41mm-wide watch. I think men are finally coming around to the fact that the ’90s, with their oversized Panerais, JNCO jeans, Oakley A Frames and XXXL t-shirts, didn’t exactly set a sartorial standard that looked good on anybody. People are coming around to smaller watches again, and we should let them. Even Tudor acknowledged this with their 39mm BB58, a wildly successful watch (and deservedly so).

The BB Chrono on-wrist.
Oren Hartov

All I’m saying is, though I love this watch (and I’m not just saying that — I truly think it’s killer and would wear the shit out of it), I want a smaller, more wearable version. I have a permanent indent in my left wrist from the crown of my Sub — just imagine what the onion-sized steel crown on this thing is going to do to me! Tudor, if you’re listening, I know you can do this: Give us the 39mm, 13mm-thick version of this chronograph. I would buy one in each color.

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June 3, 2021 / Comments Off on Review: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono
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Japanese Textile Straps Make These Seiko Dive Watches Feel Premium as Hell

The modern reinterpretations of Seiko‘s earliest dive watches look, in a word, dope on their existing bracelet and rubber strap options — but, like many tool watches, these Seikos also perfect for mixing up straps. As no-nonsense dive watches, a NATO-style strap is always a good option, but Seiko went the extra mile to offer something uniquely cool and infused, as always, with an extra Japanese touch.

Two Prospex models are now being offered with new textile strap options: they are the SPB239 based on the 1965 watch known as the “62MAS” and the SPB237 based on the 1970 watch nicknamed the “Captain Willard,” after the character who wore one in Apocalypse Now. The watches themselves aren’t so much new, but the NATO-style straps have have an unusual weave and texture with an interesting pattern and distinctly premium feel.

As with many Seiko releases, there’s a “traditional Japanese technique” behind the straps: the fabric’s braiding style is said to be the same as that used for kimono sashes’ decorative cords. It just so happens that this technique also works particularly well for dive watches with properties that make it flexible, breathable, resistant to degradation from light and give it a “tensile strength nearly four times that of regular Seiko fabric straps.”

The straps include premium hardware (a nicely finished steel buckle and keepers) and a Prospex logo patch. Each of the watches is offered with the textile straps in two color options: The SPB239 will be available with a black or tan strap, and the SPB237, with green or gray.

Kevin Norris

Courtesy

Interestingly, the straps are positioned as premium options, and springing for one brings the watches’ prices close to that of steel bracelet-equipped versions (whereas they’re a couple hundred dollars less on rubber straps). Available later in June 2021, the 1965 recreation SPB239 will be priced at $1,200 and the 1970 recreation SPB237 will be $1,300.

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June 2, 2021 / Comments Off on Japanese Textile Straps Make These Seiko Dive Watches Feel Premium as Hell
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This Man Is the Patron Saint of Dive Watches

A version of this story first appeared in Gear Patrol Magazine. Subscribe today for more stories like this one, plus receive a $15 gift card to the Gear Patrol Store.

In the sixties and seventies, Doxa, Aquadive and Aquastar made the kinds of serious watches you’d find for sale in dive shops rather than at jewelers, while Tropic and ISOfrane made waterproof rubber straps that came standard on many such watches. It was a time when sport diving was still young and dangerous, and watches from this era have a special appeal to today’s vintage collectors. After these brands faded into obscurity, Rick Marei brought each back to life, one by one.

Resurrecting defunct dive-watch brands was a natural extension of Marei’s passion as a collector. It all started in the 1990s, when most collectors were hunting for pocket watches — few were interested in the mechanical workhorse timepieces from the 1970s the way he was. Marei became obsessed with recreating a famous Doxa dive watch, the 1969 SUB 300T Conquistador, which was developed with the legendary oceanographer Jacques Cousteau. Its unique design — which includes a bright orange dial for increased underwater legibility — helped it later become a cult classic.

Marei left Doxa to resuscitate a handful of iconic dive brands, like Tropic straps, seen here
Jay Mitchosky

And chunkier, technologically advanced, ISOfrane straps.
Chandler Bondurant

Marei, who spent the first decade of his career working for Microsoft, cashed in his stock options and offered to buy 1,000 units for resale if Doxa remade the SUB 300T. Following three years of negotiations, they finally did so, and Marei went on to help steer the company to newfound success using e-commerce. Other manufacturers sought him out to replicate this success, but he was simply too busy to help them.

The reissued Deepstar diver’s chronograph, from fan-favorite brand Aquastar, is the latest in a long list of Marei’s projects.
Aquastar

After two decades of work with Doxa, Marei parted ways with the brand, and has now moved on to resuscitate a range of other companies under his Synchron umbrella. The reissued Deepstar diver’s chronograph, from fan-favorite brand Aquastar, is the latest in a long list of his projects, which also includes Tropic and ISOfrane rubber straps. And while Marei is based in Europe, he’s benefitted from big interest in recent years from this side of the pond: “If it weren’t for the U.S. and the American watch-buying mentality, none of this would be possible,” he says.

Rick Marei was not only far ahead of today’s vintage-watch reissue trend, but he pioneered online sales when such a concept was alien to watchmakers. The watch industry is only now catching up on both fronts, but Marei isn’t slowing down.

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June 2, 2021 / Comments Off on This Man Is the Patron Saint of Dive Watches
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281

A Favorite Pilot’s Watch Has Been Refined for 2021

Down-to-earth tool watches are Oris‘s bread and butter, but you can increasingly expect in-house movements from the independent Swiss watchmaker — as well as toughness and reasonable prices, of course. The latest to get the in-house treatment is a limited-edition version of the brand’s Big Crown pilot’s watch, refining the classic look that we love by bringing the benefits of some excellent mechanics inside.

Oris recently introduced its new Calibre 400 series of automatic movements, which offer an impressive five days of power reserve, antimagnetic properties and a 10-year warranty. In the new Big Crown Hölstein Edition 2021, the 400 has been tweaked to feature a small-seconds subdial and been dubbed the Calibre 403. Unfortunately, it’s not visible through the watch’s solid case back, which instead features an engraving of the Oris Bear just as the 2020 Hölstein Edition did.

As a way to mark the new watch as a limited edition and distinguish it from other models containing sourced movements, the Big Crown Hölstein Edition 2021 received some visual changes as well. The date is still indicated by a hand on the dial, but now it’s arrow-shaped rather than a crescent and, along with the seconds hand, its deep red (another Oris signature) offers a striking contrast with the gray dial.

Courtesy

Most notably departing from the existing Big Crown watches is that the case and bezel have been simplified as well: The collection’s signature fluted bezel has been replaced with a flat, polished one and the numerals have also received a subtle redesign based on early Big Crown models the brand has been producing since 1938. The biggest difference, however, is that the Big Crown’s typically 40mm case has been shrunk to 38mm.

All of these changes, from the simplified hand layout to smaller case and new bezel, serve to make the Big Crown more refined and dressy feeling than ever — an appropriate departure for the first model in the collection to feature an in-house movement. Available now but limited to only 250 examples, the Oris Big Crown Hölstein Edition 2021 can be yours for a price of $3,900 via the brand’s website.

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June 1, 2021 / Comments Off on A Favorite Pilot’s Watch Has Been Refined for 2021
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The Best Dive Watches at Every Budget

For almost as long as watches have been worn on wrists, watchmakers have strived to make them function in places they probably shouldn’t, and nowhere is that pursuit more glorified than it is regarding the dive watch. How could it not be? Imagine a tiny network of gears and springs, working flawlessly, shielded from the relentless pressure of the ocean and surrounded by an unfathomable amount of water.

The pursuit for a truly water-resistant watch began in earnest in the early 20th century. In 1927, Rolex debuted the “Oyster,” which is accepted as the world’s first water-resistant watch. In the late 1930s, Panerai developed the Radiomir, a large cushion-cased watch worn by divers in the Italian Royal Navy, meant to be worn for long periods of time underwater.

The Short List

The Smart Spend: Seiko SKX007

An affordable watch stalwart if ever there was one, this is one of the few ISO-rated dive watches you’ll find around this price and one of the first watches many will recommend if you want a mechanical watch, period. There’s not much to it other than the essentials — a simple but reliable movement, a proper bezel, a clear and legible dial and a case good for 200 meters — but that’s what makes it so damn endearing. (Note that the SKX007 has since been discontinued, and this has driven the price up to around $300 — but it’s still a hell of a deal.)

Price: ~$335

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Just Get This: Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight

Tudor’s Black Bay lineup is inspired by the Tudor-branded Submariners made during the ’50s, ’60s and ’70s, and the Fifty-Eight is the greatest tribute to that era yet, thanks to a vintage-inspired 39mm case and a dial with old-school gilt dial or this crisp new model in all blue. The movement, of course, is wholly modern, and features a 70-hour power reserve and chronometer-rated accuracy.

Price: $3,700

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The Step Up: Rolex Submariner

We all knew it would be here. This is because the Submariner is arguably the most influential watch of all time, inspiring countless other sports watches since its inception in 1953, and helping make dive watches into style statements outside the water. In its modern guise, it’s a clear evolution from the original, featuring a better movement (an automatic accurate to within two seconds a day), a ceramic bezel and a 41mm case water-resistant to 300 meters.

Price: $8,100

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The modern dive watch as we know it, though, didn’t arrive until 1953 when Rolex, Blancpain and Zodiac introduced their dive watch designs — the Submariner, Fifty Fathoms and Sea Wolf — all different but touting remarkably similar features. All three watches featured chunky water-resistant cases, legible lume-filled dials and rotating dive bezels that could be used to calculate the amount of time spent underwater. This final component is at the crux of why the dive watch became such a vital piece of SCUBA kit: it allows divers to know exactly how much time they’ve spent underwater and when it’s time to begin an ascent.

While they were originally intended mainly as tools for military and commercial divers, recreational diving became an exceedingly popular hobby in the decades that would follow, and more and more dive watches would arrive, following the same formula set in 1953 and featuring the same hallmark design traits. Though watchmakers continue to improve said formula — with tougher cases, more substantial depth ratings and other practical features — the many dive watches you’ll see today are still inspired by the ones first launched over 60 years ago.

The reality is this: the dive watch was usurped by the modern digital dive computer a long time ago. Today there are still holdouts (who likely wear one as a backup to a dive computer) but mostly dive watches are worn as style pieces rather than tools, which is just fine, because the best retain their old-school style but can still be used for their intended purpose if needed.

What Makes a Dive Watch?

Today, many watches can be worn and read underwater, but the best guidelines for what makes up a true diver’s watch are laid out by the International Organization for Standardization. The modern ISO 6425 standard stipulates a few criteria, chief of which are: a minimum depth-rating of 100 meters, a unidirectional bezel with markings at least every five minutes, a dial visible in total darkness and an indication in darkness that the watch is running — usually this is indicated by a running seconds hands with a luminous tip or counterbalance. ISO 6425 also stipulates the watch must be anti-magnetic and shock-resistant, as well as well as resistant to corrosion in seawater. The net result is a timepiece that’s rugged, reliable and legible.

Terms to Know

Bezel (unidirectional): A rotating ring surrounding the watch dial that only turns counterclockwise and features markings at least every five minutes. A diver will line up the marker at the 12 o’clock position with the current position of the minutes hand to track elapsed time on a dive. A unidirectional bezel on a dive watch only turns in one direction so it’s less prone to being knocked out of place, thus throwing off the tracked time (and making the diver think he has more available time underwater than he actually does).

Gasket: A soft rubber (or synthetic) ring found inside a watch that creates a watertight seal, keeping moisture from making its way into the watch case and damaging the clockwork.

Helium escape valve: Not a requirement, but useful on dive watches worn at particularly deep depths or worn by saturation divers. Breathing gas worn by these divers contains helium, which is so small it can work its way into a watch case. The valve allows this gas to escape once the diver has surfaced. If it were not there the helium could blow off the crystal from the watch case due to buildup and expansion at surface pressure.

Lume: A term used to describe the luminescent material applied to a watch dial to make the hands and indices/numerals light up in the dark. On older dive watches, radioactive materials like radium and tritium were used, though today most divers use a photoluminescent paint like SuperLuminova.

Screw-down crown: A type of crown that can be screwed in until it is flush with the watch case, creating a seal so that no water can enter the watch through the crown tube.

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Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight

tudorwatch.com

$3,700.00

Tudor’s Black Bay lineup is inspired by the Tudor-branded Submariners made during the ’50s, ’60s and ’70s, and the Fifty-Eight is the greatest tribute to that era yet, thanks to a vintage-inspired 39mm case and a dial with old-school gilt dial or this crisp new model in all blue. The movement, of course, is wholly modern, and features a 70-hour power reserve and chronometer-rated accuracy.

Movement: Tudor MT5402 automatic
Diameter: 39mm
Water Resistance: 200m
Manufacturer Info: tudorwatch.com

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Seiko SKX007

amazon.com

$372.00

An affordable watch stalwart if there ever were one, this is one of the few ISO-rated dive watches you’ll find around this price and one of the first watches many will recommend if you want a mechanical watch, period. There’s not much to it other than the essentials — a simple but reliable movement, a proper bezel, a clear and legible dial and a case good for 200 meters — but that’s what makes it so damn endearing. (Note that the SKX007 has since been discontinued, and this has driven the price up to around $300 — but it’s still a hell of a deal.)

Movement: Seiko 7S26 Automatic
Diameter: 42mm
Water Resistance: 200m
Manufacturer info: seikowatches.com

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Rolex Submariner

rolex.com

$8,100.00

We all knew it would be here. This is because the Submariner is arguably the most influential watch of all time, inspiring countless other sports watches since its inception in 1953, and helping make dive watches into style statements outside the water. In its modern guise, it’s a clear evolution from the original, featuring a better movement (an automatic accurate to within two seconds a day), a ceramic bezel and a 41mm case water-resistant to 300 meters.

Movement: Rolex 3230 automatic; Rolex 3235 automatic
Diameter: 41mm
Water Resistance: 300m
Manufacturer Info: rolex.com

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Baltic Aquascaphe

baltic-watches.com

€695.00

The French brand Baltic makes some of our favorite retro-styled watches, and its flagship Aquascaphe diver is no exception. With a fresh design but a vintage feel, this is a fully dive-capable watch with 200m of water resistance that stills wears easily (and handsomely) at 39mm. Powered by a solid Japanese automatic movement, we love the details and quality for its price.

Movement: Miyota 9039 automatic
Diameter: 39mm
Water Resistance: 200m
Manufacturer Info: baltic-watches.com

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Zodiac Super Sea Wolf

The Sea Wolf isn’t the only original diver design from 1953 you’ll see on this list, but it is the most affordable and the watch is a spot-on take on a vintage Sea Wolf. While many dive watches on the affordable end of the spectrum tend to rely on bulky cases to remain water-resistant at deeper depths, the Sea Wolf is relatively svelte at just 40mm in diameter and 11mm thick.

Movement: STP 3-13 automatic
Diameter: 40mm
Water Resistance: 200m
Manufacturer Info: zodiacwatches.com

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Seiko Prospex SPB143

ebay.com

$1,200.00

There’s a great Seiko diver out there for just about any and every budget, from impressively cheap to those competing with high-end luxury brands. The series which includes the SPB143, however, is sits right in the middle and strikes a remarkably adroit balance between vintage and modern. Seiko reinterpreted its famous 62MAS dive watch from 1965 for a more current look, and they got it just right — from its mix of features and price to its 40.5mm diameter.

Movement: Seiko 6R35 automatic
Diameter: 40.5mm
Water Resistance: 200m
Manufacturer Info: seikoluxe.com

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Oris Divers Sixty-Five

hodinkee.com

$2,100.00

Much like the Zodiac, the Oris Divers Sixty-Five is a super-accurate reinterpretation of a classic dive watch design. The watch is similarly compact at 40mm in diameter and just under 13mm thick (thanks in no small part to the use of a domed crystal), and features an of-the-era 100-meter depth rating — less than that of most other dive watches on this list, but more than enough for most watch enthusiasts and recreational divers. The Sixty-Five has been released in myriad iterations in the few years it’s been on the market, so whether you’re a bracelet or strap person, there’s a version for you.

Movement: Sellita SW200-1 automatic
Diameter: 40mm
Water Resistance: 100m
Manufacturer Info: oris.ch

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Sinn U50

sinn watchbuys.com

$2,430.00

Sinn is synonymous with tough, German tool watches, and the 1,000m-water-resistant U1 dive watch epitomizes that image. Its 44mm case, however, precludes it from being worn on smaller wrists and a range of situations (read: with sleeves). That’s why we love the U50 with its smaller 41mm case that still retains all the badass-ness and the same type of high-strength, seawater-resistant steel used for German submarines and the U1. It’s water-resistant to 500m, which is far more than the feeble human body can withstand, but Sinn wears the overkill well.

Movement: Sellita SW 300-1 automatic
Diameter: 41mm
Water Resistance: 500m
Manufacturer Info: sinn.de

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Doxa Sub 300T Professional

doxawatches.com

$300.00

Not that your dive watch has to be orange, but when Doxa does it at least there’s history behind its attention-grabbing look. The 300T is an evolution of the legendary Doxa divers of the late ’60s and early ’70s and carries the brand’s iconic decompression limit bezel and orange dial — ostensibly to aid in legibility, but it’s an iconic design trait more than anything.

Movement: ETA 2824-2 automatic COSC-certified
Diameter: 42.5mm
Water Resistance: 300m
Manufacturer Info: doxawatches.com

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Longines Legend Diver Black

hodinkee.com

$2,700.00

Based on a dive watch design from the 1960s, the Legend Diver reissue has been a longtime watch enthusiast favorite since its debut over 20 years ago. Longines further gave the design the all-black treatment, as well as an upgraded movement with a whopping 80-hour power reserve. The watch manages to perfectly combine a modern all-black aesthetic with a vintage look thanks to the cleanness that the internal bezel provides.

Movement: Base ETA A31.L01 automatic
Diameter: 42mm
Water Resistance: 300m
Manufacturer Info: longines.com

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Omega Seamaster Diver 300M

hodinkee.com

$5,200.00

Omega’s Seamaster 300M, first launched in 1993, got a major overhaul for its 25th birthday. At first glance, you might not see the changes — it keeps much of the watch’s ’90s-tastic charm — but look closer, and you can see the subtle enhancements made throughout. The bezel insert and dial are both made from ceramic, and the wave pattern hallmark is etched by lasers. The movement used now is Omega’s “Master Chronometer” co-axial automatic and the watch now features a helium escape valve.

Movement: Omega 8800 automatic
Diameter: 42mm
Water Resistance: 300m
Manufacturer Info: omegawatches.com

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Panerai Submersible PAM 682

panerai.com

$8,900.00

Early Panerai watches helped pave the way for the modern diver, but they lacked the crucial rotating bezel. The Submersible rectifies this while retaining the brand’s iconic Luminor silhouette, complete with a locking crown guard that protects it from knocks while submerged. The watch features the brand’s excellent P.9010 automatic with a three-day power reserve.

Movement: Panerai P.9010 automatic
Diameter: 42mm
Water Resistance: 300m
Manufacturer Info: panerai.com

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Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Baracuda

blancpain.com

$14,100.00

The Fifty Fathoms debuted at the same time as the Rolex Submariner and Zodiac Sea Wolf as the first dive watches of their kind in 1953. Having outgrown its tool-watch roots, however, Blancpain now offers one of the most luxurious high-end dive watch experiences available. Though the majority of Fifty Fathoms are boldly sized, the Baracuda model offers a compact package at an eminently satisfying 40.3mm wide. With an excellent in-house movement and a high level of refinement, it costs well into the five-figure price range.

Movement: Blancpain 1151 automatic
Diameter: 40.3mm
Water Resistance: 300m
Manufacturer Info: blancpain.com

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June 1, 2021 / Comments Off on The Best Dive Watches at Every Budget
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This Omega Watch Played a Special Role in World War II

Welcome to Watches You Should Know, a biweekly column highlighting important or little-known watches with interesting backstories and unexpected influence. This week: the Omega Suveran.

Military watches are plenty cool for their utilitarian design, hard use case and often limited production, but they’re not the only subset of horological wares deserving of historical interest.

The Omega Suveran (“Sovereign” in Swedish) is one such watch that deserves a closer look by the collector community — and indeed, anyone with a glancing interest in the Second World War. This interesting model, produced by Omega exclusively for sale by the Swedish government, was used to partially fund the country’s economy during the war. That’s right: it’s a sort of like a horological equivalent to war bonds.

S.Song

Available in numerous dial configurations, the Suveran was housed in a roughly 35mm anti-magnetic stainless steel case with a screw down back, which bore either the “SUVERAN” signature in a startlingly modern typeface, or the words “ANTIMAGNETISK, VATTENTAT, STÖTSKYDDAD (“anti-magnetic, waterproof, shockproof”). Powered by the manually wound, 15-jewel Omega cal. 30T2 PC AM, a version of the vaulted 30T2 with the addition of Incabloc shock protection, it was a highly attractive, simple workhorse of a watch.

Different dial designs included black, military-style faces with blocky Arabic numerals; white dials with Roman numerals and a dressier aspect; black and white “tuxedo” dials; and numerous others. (They would, of course, have featured radium on luminous models.) Most seemed to have featured pencil hands, though perhaps a few used leaf hands. All featured a sub-seconds display within a sub-register at 6 o’clock and shipped, most likely, on a plain leather strap.

Stem & Bezel

Stem & Bezel

Most references have a ref. number of 2400-X (i.e. 2400-1; 2400-5, etc.) and a production date of between 1943 and 1945. While exact production quantities are unknown, production is certainly fairly limited considering the use case, which was exclusively for the Swedish government. Prices have certainly increased in the past several years with the increasing mania for both vintage and military watches, but the fact that you can obtain such a fascinating (and unique) bit of horological and WWII history for between $1,500 and $3,000 — that isn’t necessarily a military watches meant for soldering — is pretty darn cool, if you ask us.

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June 1, 2021 / Comments Off on This Omega Watch Played a Special Role in World War II
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Citizen’s Limited-Edition Promaster Could Be the Perfect Summer Watch

Talking Points:

Citizen Promaster AQUALAND Special Edition

Any true watch enthusiast has a special place in his or her heart for Citizen, a pioneering titan of timekeeping. The brand’s iconic Aqualand dive watches, first dropped all the way back in 1985, have been a favorite of divers and dive-watch-lovers since then. This year, Citizen is celebrating that legacy with the Promaster Aqualand Chrono 200M Dive special edition set. And it’s not just a beautiful packet of steel-sportswatchery. It’s a diver’s dream. Here are the details that make this watch one to put on your wish list.

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Citizen

Citizen

Dive Grade

The limited-edition Promaster AQUALAND is a true diver’s watch with advanced features like Auto-Start Dive Mode, maximum depth memory, depth display to 50 meters and a one-second chronograph measuring up to 50 minutes. It’s also rated to a depth of 200m, is fitted with a screw-down crown and thanks to its Eco-Drive system, is powered by any available light.

Endless Summer Look

This big, bold watch makes a statement in and out of the ocean. Its two-tone blue aluminum bezel halos a dial that elegantly packs tons of dive watch utility. Its Max Depth Memory ring alone deserves some awards. Its dive-grade luminous dials are both eye-catching and visible in the murky depths, or when the campfire’s going out. And yes, you indeed can rock that 46mm diameter in style, my friend.

Life-Saving Accessories

As if the bold timepiece on your wrist wasn’t already badass enough, the limited edition set comes with the Lifeline® JAWZ™ titanium rescue tool. The tool allows you to easily cut rope, monofilament line, netting, webbing, or other materials a diver might find themselves tangled in with just one hand. The set also includes a carabiner to clip the tool to the dive suit, a spring-loaded sheath that keeps the tool in place and a USB drive loaded with tutorials and videos showing you the tool in action. A legendary tool watch set that might also save your life — now that’s something you might want to have.

Price: $1,095

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Gear Patrol Studios

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June 1, 2021 / Comments Off on Citizen’s Limited-Edition Promaster Could Be the Perfect Summer Watch
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Vacheron Constantin Completely Remade a Watch from 1921, Piece by Piece

You may remember a recent release from Watches & Wonders Geneva that recalls a century-old piece: the Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921. Available in several configurations and metals, it’s a gorgeous dress watch that revives a whimsical design from the beginning of the Jazz Age.

Vacheron has now gone one step further in its quest to revisit the eccentricities of this historically important model by issuing a pièce unique — a single timepiece that, in this case, serves as a nearly one-for-one recreation of the original, save a laser-engraved hallmark necessary to conform to modern customs law.

romain levrault

The Vacheron Constantin 1921 Pièce Unique took over a year of development and saw the maison utilizing long-obsolete tools in the quest to make a watch that is barely distinguishable from its namesake, from the movement to the case to the dial. 31mm in diameter by 8.75mm thick, the Pièce Unique is small by modern standards (much like the original) and features a yellow gold case, a hand-wound caliber with 30 hours of power reserve, and a gorgeous grand feu enamel dial.

Oriented with the crown and 12 o’clock marker at the upper lefthand corner of the case, the 1921 is particularly suited for use while driving, as it allows the time to be easily read with one’s hand situated on the steering wheel. Beautiful Breguet numerals and blued steel hands complement the elegant white dial, while a brown, hand-sewn calfskin leather strap finishes the entire package off. The word is still out as to whether this special watch will reside in Vacheron’s archives or whether it will be offered for sale, but either way, it represents a special achievement not only in fine watchmaking, but in the art of reproducing a vintage model.

romain levrault

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May 25, 2021 / Comments Off on Vacheron Constantin Completely Remade a Watch from 1921, Piece by Piece
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The Complete Buying Guide to the Rolex Sea-Dweller

Welcome to Brand Breakdown, a series of comprehensive yet easy-to-digest guides to your favorite companies, with insights and information you won’t find on the average About page.

The Rolex Sea-Dweller is like the famous Submariner, only more so: it’s beefed up, specced out and all-around badass. While the Submariner is a capable dive watch, it’s so handsome and versatile that the vast majority of units sold will probably never get very wet. The Sea-Dweller, on the other hand, is resolutely made for extreme underwater use — it’s the OG hardcore dive watch.

When the Sea-Dweller debuted in 1967 it existed within the Submariner line. It was rated to go significantly deeper (610m) than the existing Submariner (200m water-resistant at the time) and it incorporated a helium escape valve — a feature created specifically for professional divers living underwater (or in pressurized environments) for extended periods. It was among the earliest watches to offer this niche feature, along with watches from brands like Doxa.

Though it offered generally badass appeal even to the casual consumer, the Sea-Dweller was developed for specific technical use. Various organizations at the time of its creation were experimenting with saturation diving, and watches were among the necessary equipment for that dangerous pursuit. The problem that the Sea-Dweller aimed to solve was that helium in the pressurized environment divers lived in would enter the watch and then pop the crystal off when decompression caused the molecules to expand. Rolex patented the valve designed to expel the gas, and this feature (along with an extreme depth rating) differentiates the Sea-Dweller from its dive watch sibling, the Submariner.

Whether you’re interested in collecting vintage Sea-Dwellers or just want the most solid modern Rolex dive watch you can get, you’ve come to the right place.

Rolex Deepsea – Oystersteel
Rolex

Rolex Sea-Dweller Collector Terms to Know

Single Red: The earliest prototypes had a single line of red “Sea-Dweller” text on the dial. They’ve become well known due to their rarity and resulting high auction prices.

Double Red: Also called DRSD for Double Red Sea-Dweller. The earliest production models had two lines of red dial text — they read: “Sea-Dweller” and “Submariner 2000” in reference to the watches’ water-resistance rating of 2,000ft or 610m. They’re not as unicorn-rare as Single Reds, but still tend to be very highly valued.

Mark Dials: Specifically, they are Mark 0 through 7, and they chronologically denote differences in Sea-Dweller dial variations. The lower numbers are older and typically more valued. Those designated 0 through 4 are original dials, whereas 5 through 7 are Rolex replacement dials.

Rail Dial: Now, look closer. Look at the two lines of text “Superlative Chronometer” and, below it, “Officially Certified.” Are the letter Cs of “Chronometer” and “Certified” aligned? If so, you’ve got a Mark 2 and a “Rail Dial,” which carries a premium. Why? Produced for a short time by the Stern Company, Rail Dials deviate from the typical configuration and are rare.

Triple Six: Another name for the reference 16660 (discussed further below).

Patent-Pending: In the context of Rolex Sea-Dwellers, this refers to certain early models that were introduced before Rolex’s helium escape valve patent was approved, and “patent pending” is denoted on the case back. It’s another feature that adds value for vintage Rolex collectors. (Models made after approval say “Rolex Patent.”)

Great White: The reference 1665 produced from 1977 to 1983 is called the Great White because its white text replaced red. (Also, it’s a dive watch so, ya know, the shark reference kinda fits.)

Comex: The French company Comex (Compagnie Maritime d’Expertises) was one of the players that pioneered saturation diving, and they commissioned watches from Rolex. Sea-Dwellers that feature the Comex logo on the dial are now so rare that they’re probably too valuable to be worn. These dials are found on references 1665 (Great White), 16660 and 16600.

Gas Escape Valve: A valve which allows helium molecules in a watch case to be vented during decompressing from the pressurized environment used in saturation diving. Also called a “helium escape valve” or “HEV.”

A Sea-Dweller Timeline

1967-1977: Ref. 1665 “Double Red”

Courtesy

The first Sea-Dwellers were produced in 1967, but not available to the public until 1971. They had the same look and 40mm case of the Submariner but with greater water resistance and the signature gas escape valve. The valve on the side of the case, the text on the dial and the lack of a magnifier lens (cyclops) over the date display would’ve been the primary ways to visually distinguish the Sea-Dweller from a Submariner of the time.

Diameter: 40mm
Water Resistance: 610m
Movement: Rolex 1575 automatic
Price: ~$40,000-$90,000

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1977-1983: Ref. 1665 “Great White”

Courtesy

The “Great White” marks the Sea-Dweller losing its Submariner branding on the dial and in some sense becoming a distinct line. Other than that, the primary difference between the Double Red and Great White, as their nicknames indicate, is the dial text color — they share the same reference number, after all, so the basic specs and features are expectedly close. For some collectors, however, the difference is significant. A standard Great White might be less valuable than a standard Double Red, but this is where you’ll begin to find rarified variations that collectors covet like “rail dials” and “Comex dials.”

Diameter: 40mm
Water Resistance: 610m
Movement: Rolex 1575 automatic
Price: ~$18,000-$39,000

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1978-1989: Ref. 16660 “Triple Six”

Courtesy

Some consider 1978 to mark the line between “vintage” and “modern” Sea-Dwellers. With the new reference number, the Sea-Dweller also doubled its water resistance, got a new movement and was one of the first Rolex watches to feature a sapphire crystal (replacing the previously used plexiglass). The new movement offered higher frequency and a quick-set feature for the date, and other small changes included a white date disk, as opposed to the outgoing silver one. The earlier Triple Six examples had the same matte-textured dial as their previous Sea-Dwellers, but later models got a glossy dial like modern Rolex watches, as well as white gold surrounds on the hour markers.

Diameter: 40mm
Water Resistance: 1,200m
Movement: Rolex 3035 automatic
Price: $10,000-$35,000

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1989-2009: Ref. 16600

Courtesy

The 16600 got an updated movement, but was remarkably similar to its predecessor. Over its 20-year production, it also got a couple upgrades to its dial luminescence: dials that say “T Swiss T” at the bottom use tritium, while a “Swiss dial” means it uses LumiNova, and “Swiss Made” indicates the use of modern Super-LumiNova. This Sea-Dweller was discontinued in 2009.

Diameter: 40mm
Water Resistance: 1,200m
Movement: Rolex 3135 automatic
Price: ~$9,000-20,000

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2008-present: 116660 Deepsea

Courtesy

If the Sea-Dweller is like a souped-up Sub, then the Deepsea is a souped-up Sea-Dweller. The Deepsea upped the case to a beefy 44mm and its water resistance rating to an impressive 3,900m deep. Its lume is Chromalight, its bezel is now ceramic and its sapphire crystal is 5mm thick. Named in reference to the experimental Deep Sea Special watch Rolex made in 1960, this watch marks the Sea-Dweller evolving into a broader collection containing both standard Sea-Dwellers alongside Deepsea models.

There are four modern variations of the Sea-Dweller today, and two of them are Deepsea models. The first has a black dial, while a second model (released in 2014) has a gradient blue dial to commemorate the 2012 expedition in which James Cameron piloted a submersible craft called the Challenger Deepsea to the bottom of the Mariana Trench. Rolex had made a special prototype Deepsea watch that it strapped to the robotic arm outside the vessel to prove its water resistance. That watch was a whopping 51.4mm wide and 28.5mm thick, but it survived down to 10,908m.

Diameter: 44mm
Water Resistance: 3,900m
Movement: Rolex 3135 automatic
Price: $12,900+
Manufacturer Info: rolex.com

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2014-2017: 116600

Courtesy

Though the Deepsea seemed to have replaced the standard Sea-Dweller for a few years, Rolex brought it back in 2014. It was familiar and consistent with the previous size, depth rating and movement, but now it featured a ceramic bezel. The 116600, however, wouldn’t last long, perhaps because it was too similar an offering to the Submariner to stand out or justify its price premium to many buyers.

Diameter: 40mm
Water Resistance: 1,200m
Movement: Rolex 3135 automatic
Price: ~$13,300+

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2017-present: 126600

Courtesy

The current Sea-Dweller is a bold 43mm wide and is offered in two variations: one in a traditional steel case and the other with a two-tone steel and yellow gold case (Rolex refers to mixed steel and gold watches as Rolesor). The inclusion of red “Sea-Dweller” text on the dial is a nod for collectors to the earliest models. It also breaks with 50 years of tradition by including a cyclops (magnifier) over the date window — which is a controversial element on any watch, but more so on a Rolex icon, of course.

Diameter: 43mm
Water Resistance: 1,200m
Movement: Rolex 3235 automatic
Price: $11,700+
Manufacturer Info: rolex.com

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May 22, 2021 / Comments Off on The Complete Buying Guide to the Rolex Sea-Dweller
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Want a Panerai Watch? Here Are 3 Worthy Alternatives That Won’t Cost as Much

You can spot a Panerai watch from across a room. Not just because of the brand’s typically bold sizing, but also due to its distinctive design and Italian swagger that seems to seep into the wearer’s skin. That image is only boosted by the brand’s exclusivity factor, with prices well into luxury territory.

For $4,500 you can get the Panerai name and familiar silhouette on your wrist in the Radiomir Base Logo, and the iconic Luminor case with its unmistakeable crown guard is $500 more. Those are the most basic models without bells, whistles or in-house movements — the vast majority of Panerai watches are significantly more expensive, even when they are functionally very simple (often indicating only the time). It’s the look (and quality), however, that continues to enthrall fans and garner some of the watch world’s most ardent followers.

Panerai’s genius is in its simplicity, and it’s quite possible that everyone sees something different in these watches, even if they’re equally captivated. Does a Panerai watch have to be big? Is it defined by its lume-sandwich-style of dial, its cushion case shape, Roman numeral font or the Luminor’s crazy crown guard mechanism? Or is it simply its bold, plainly handsome character? All of the above?

There are many Panerai knockoffs and homages out there, and we’re not here to introduce you to copycats. Rather we want something that offers a watch-wearing experience that’s somehow comparable to that Panerai magic — and I’m fully convinced that uniqueness is part of it. Though highly subjective, the three watches below each offers an attractive, affordable alternative to the Panerai feel in its own way.

Magrette

Magrette Moana Pacific Waterman

Magrette magrette.com

$300.00

New Zealand-based Magrette has been making affordable diving-focused watches for a lot longer than many microbrands. Many of their watches qualify as possible Panerai alternatives thanks to their cushion-like cases, legible sandwich-style dial and moderately bold sizing. This particular model measures 42mm wide and has a pretty reasonable price considering its Swiss automatic movement and premium features like sapphire crystal — oh, and its extreme water resistance of 500m.

Movement: ETA 2824 Automatic
Diameter: 42mm
Water Resistance: 500m
Price: $300 (preorder)

Nivada Grenchen

Nivada Grenchen Depthmaster

Nivada Grenchen nivadagrenchenofficial.com

$1,042.00

If you love the footprint of Panerai’s cushion case but not those bumptious sizes, check this out. The Nivada Depthmaster, also sometimes called “mini-Panerai” by collectors due to its case shape, was produced in the 1960s (when this case shape was more common) — and its modern version is essentially identical, right down to its size. (It also offers some of its own unique flare, too, particularly with its “PacMan” numerals.) At 39mm on an average-sized wrist, it’ll probably wear about the same as a Panerai does on Sylvester Stallone.

Movement: Sellita SW200 Automatic
Diameter: 39mm
Water Resistance: 100m
Price: $1,042 (available from July 2021)

Bell & Ross

Bell & Ross BR 03-92 DIVER

Bell & Ross bellross.com

$3,800.00

Hear us out: Panerai, at its heart and in its origins, is a maker of dive watches even if only their Submersible collection features the rotating bezel modern consumers expect on a dive watch. The Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver obviously has that diving character with its serious, legible dial, but it’s also got the big, unique wrist presence. Though it measures 42mm, its square case shape helps it wear a lot bigger and makes it a good option for those who consider size to be an essential part of Panerai’s charm.

Movement: Sellita SW300 Automatic
Diameter: 42mm
Water Resistance: 300m
Price: $3,800

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May 21, 2021 / Comments Off on Want a Panerai Watch? Here Are 3 Worthy Alternatives That Won’t Cost as Much
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The Rolex Oysterquartz Proves That Quartz Is Cool

Welcome to Watches You Should Know, a biweekly column highlighting important or little-known watches with interesting backstories and unexpected influence. This week: the Rolex Oysterquartz.

If Rolex is the ultimate symbol of prestige among watches, at the other end of the spectrum would be chap, battery-powered quartz watches. At least, that’s a perception common among many lay consumers — and even sophisticated, experienced collectors. Though not without foundation, this assertion is too simplistic: Not only can quartz watches be every bit as refined as mechanical timepieces, but even Rolex once made their very own: the Oysterquartz.

Rolex watches today exclusively use traditional mechanics, deriving power from a an unwinding spring rather than from batteries. Quartz watch movements, on the other hand, are battery-powered, and are found in the majority of inexpensive watches out there. You can often spot the difference because a quartz watch’s seconds hand will tick every second, while a mechanical watch’s will sweep continuously (usually). Quartz has come to have a low-end image, and the idea of a quartz Rolex watch might seem contradictory to some.

Quartz not only gets a bad rap because of the multituds of inexpensive watches it’s used in, but among watch enthusiasts it’s also a little resented because of the overall effect it had on the entire watch industry after the technology’s introduction to the market 1969. The “Quartz Crisis” killed many historic watchmakers who couldn’t keep up, and many illustrious brands hopped on the quartz bandwagon. But does this mean that those companies were suddenly making the type of low-quality, mass-produced watches that quartz is today often associated with? Far from it.

Rolex was one of them. At first, Rolex was among a group of 20 Swiss brands (the “CEH”) formed in 1962 to develop a quartz wristwatch movement. They released the Beta 21 in 1970 — losing the race to Seiko’s 1969 Quartz Astron — using it to power the first Rolex quartz watch, the reference 5100 Rolex Quartz. Those early quartz movements, however, were only the first generation of such calibers and left a lot of room for improvement (think: short battery life, thick… square!), and Rolex eventually left the consortium to develop its own movement in 1972.

Phillips

For brands that were wholly invested in traditional mechanical watchmaking, the leap to develop and produce a battery-powered quartz movement was no insignificant undertaking. It took the brand five years before its Oysterquartz was ready for market in 1977, and this then-futuristic-seeming tech called for a new look to distinguish it from traditional watches.

The Oysterquartz didn’t simply replace mechanical movements in all existing Rolex watches, but rather it formed a collection of its own. That’s why “Oysterquartz” refers not just to the quartz movement but the watches themselves. While the movement was still being developed, the brand had already settled on a new case style that would house it — and they even produced some mechanical watches (references 1530 and 1630) in this form to float the look. The Oysterquartz took established Rolex elements and integrated them into a case design that would have been seen as very modern at the time.

It was the 1970s, and Gerald Genta’s Royal Oak and Nautilus were introducing a new category of luxury sport watches to the market. The angular design of the Oysterquartz watch cases with their integrated bracelets fit right in with those Genta designs, even though the bezels and dials stayed true to Rolex’s existing Datejust and Day-Date watches. It’s as if you can see multiple watch industry trends of the 1970s all converging at once in the Oysterquartz.

There were variations on these watches over the Oysterquartz’s 24-year run with different bezel styles, dial elements like Roman numerals, as well as case materials and bracelet options — but they were more or less consistent with the Datejust and Day-Date lines. The cases have a cool look (IMO) and helped distinguish the collection, but it was the tech inside that was the big deal. How was the Oysterquartz movement different or better than other contemporary quartz examples?

Antiquorum

They operated at a frequency around four times that of the Seiko’s first Astron, were certified for accuracy by Swiss COSC as chronometers, and incorporated thermoregulating features — and the tech continued to evolve and improve in subsequent generations. Notably, and in stark contrast to the image quartz watches tend to evoke today, these Oysterquartz movements were even more highly finished than many of their mechanical counterparts. No green circuit boards here: rather, they featured beautifully Geneva-striped metal.

These Rolex Oysterquartz movements were clearly produced with great care and attention to detail — and the watches weren’t inexpensive. They were the cutting-edge, high-end option of their time, whereas mechanical clockwork was seen as an outgoing anachronism. (The script was later flipped when highly accurate and robust quartz movements became extremely cheap to mass-produce, and mechanical watches were rebranded as luxury items.)

Rolex stopped producing its Oysterquartz around 2001, and it’s believed that the brand made around 25,000 of them over their 24-year lifespan. Today, the Oysterquartz watches are largely overlooked, but present a side of Rolex that many people have forgotten. They also make a strong case for the argument that quartz watches can be high-quality and interesting luxury items. Even though Rolex no longer makes them, quartz watches just might be worth a second look.

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May 18, 2021 / Comments Off on The Rolex Oysterquartz Proves That Quartz Is Cool
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This Limited Edition Watch Gets All the Details Just Right

Among vintage watches you’ll sometimes find a type of dial with a compelling texture descriptively called “honeycomb.” It has an interesting look, it provides excellent contrast for a legible dial and collectors love it, so it’s kind of baffling that more brands haven’t brought it back as part of the boom in vintage-inspired watches. Now, two independent brands have combined forces to show just how great a honeycomb dial can look — and that it can work well on a totally contemporary watch.

The two brands are Massena Lab and Ming, both small companies with a collector cult following. While Massena Lab’s primary activity is collaborations, this is the first time that Ming has teamed up with another brand. The watch is Ming’s 17.09 with the brand’s signature density of design details, from distinctive lug shape to indices that appear to float above the dial.

Both Ming and Massena Lab were founded by watch collectors, so it’s no surprise to find these watches full of the type of interesting features enthusiasts tend to appreciate. These range from thoughtful design touches to ergonomics (the watch’s 38mm diameter is very wearable) and finishing. For example: those hour markers that appear to float are, in fact, etched into the underside of a sapphire crystal and filled with Super-LumiNova to glow strongly in the dark along with the hands. The Ming and Massena logos at 3 and 9 o’clock are also lumed.

Courtesy

Then, of course, there’s the striking dial with its three-dimensional honeycomb pattern, which comes in either a black execution or an appropriately “honey-colored” version. The design echoed on the case back, underneath which is a version of the Sellita SW330-2 modified by the company Schwarz-Etienne to offer an independently adjustable hour hand exclusively for the Ming 17.09. These are very much the kinds of features and details that elevate a watch’s level of interest for enthusiasts.

As you might expect from these brands, the watches are being produced only as a limited edition — and Ming watches tend to sell out quickly. There will be 150 examples of the black-dial version costing $2,595 each and only 50 examples of the honey-colored version at $2,795. Both will be available from the Massena website starting 11:30am (EST), May 20, 2021.

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May 17, 2021 / Comments Off on This Limited Edition Watch Gets All the Details Just Right
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