All posts in “Watches”

The Best Digital Watches That Aren’t the Apple Watch

Didn’t you know? Digital watches are cool now. First, in the 1970s, they were futuristic and expensive, then they became emblematic of inexpensive watches, then they were worn ironically…and finally they’ve reached a nostalgic status that’s seen vintage models thoughtfully reissued and gobbled up even by snooty collectors. Digital watches certainly can be cool.

Benefits of Going Digital

Most of all, digital watches are highly practical: First, a digital display is instantaneous and objectively easier to read than analog hands. Second, fewer moving parts means fewer opportunities for wear and damage from shocks, making them naturally robust. Last is that many digital watches can, of course, be very inexpensive — but, we hasten to remind you, simply having a digital display or quartz movement doesn’t mean a watch isn’t made with good materials or high-level craftsmanship.

What “Digital” Actually Means

The word “digital” can have two meanings: one which refers to the manner of displaying information and the other which refers to a type of technology. Since both can apply to watches, a little clarification is in order: When referring to display, digital means that the information is displayed as changing numbers which are read directly. The opposite is analog, in which hands point to numbers along a scale. (Watches that combine analog and digital displays are called ana-digi.) That’s simple enough.

On the other hand, “digital” also refers to technology that uses zeros and ones to represent information that’s conveyed via integrated circuits. For example, the Apple Watch uses fully digital technology but offers “faces” which display the time in a traditional analog format.

Most modern watches with digital displays also use quartz movements, so that’s what we’re focusing on here (see this piece on smartwatches). Just be aware that there are many examples of analog watches with electronic technology (quartz, batteries, integrated circuits) inside. Those with digital displays that are powered by traditional, spring-powered mechanics are relatively rare and often high-end today (see the Yema Digidisc for an affordable example), but were popular in the 1960s and well worth exploring as vintage collectibles.

What to Look for in a Digital Watch

Like any watch, you want something durable, comfortable, easy to use and visually interesting. There are, however, a few points to consider that apply specifically to digital watches.

Most digital watches use LCD displays, and those with dark text on light backgrounds are the most legible — and legibility is important for longterm watch enjoyment. Negative displays (light on dark) look cool, but take our word for it that they undermine the very purpose of a watch by being difficult to read. You’ve been warned.

Lastly, some digital watches offer supplemental technology which allows the batteries to be recharged by exposure to light (solar charging), and this feature adds significant value and is worth seeking out.


Casio G-Shock 5600

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Since debuting 1983, G-Shock has been the gold standard in indestructible, function-first plastic watches. Though it’s since been joined by multitudes of fashion-focused models, one particular G-Shock series still embodies these values and the original design: the 5600. It’s tough, affordable, light, comfortable, fun, unpretentious and kind of a perfect overall watch. When equipped with a positive display and Tough Solar, and the G-Shock 5600 (whether it begins with G-, GW-, GWX- DWE-, etc.) can’t be recommended highly enough. (For an alternative G-Shock classic, look for the same features in a 6900 series model.)

Price: ~$92

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Casio World Time

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If you just want a great throwback digital watch experience for everyday wear, the Casio World Time is worth checking out. For a paltry $15 or so (!) it offers one hell of a lot of watch. While the ultra basic but iconic F-91W is even cheaper, the World Time is better sized for modern tastes and has some extra features. It’s reasonably durable for its price, too — but if you break it you won’t be too sad and can easily replace it.

Price: ~$15

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Casio G-Shock Full Metal

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If the plastic G-Shock 5600 is the ultimate practical watch, the recent version that’s been rendered in steel has a more serious presence. It’s also got Tough Solar and all the premium traits you want, including scratch-resistant sapphire crystal (as found on luxury watches), radio synching for better accuracy and bluetooth connection. A steel bracelet even mimics the look of the original resin band. With the iconic look but a more luxurious feel, this is a digital watch with appeal to dedicated watch enthusiasts, though it remains reasonably affordable.

Price: $500

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Casio Databank

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Yes, it’s another Casio, but the Japanese brand clearly owns the digital watch space — and this a calculator watch! No, it’s the calculator watch. Once it was nerdy but now it’s cool, as long as you’ve got the personality to pull it off — plus, you can do calculations on it quicker than reaching for your phone. There are also multiple models offering different designs, colors, materials and price points.

Price: ~$54

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Timex T80

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Timex’s T80 collection is meant as a homage to the brand’s first digital watches. It’s stylistically and functionally similar to some Casio designs but it wears boldly and also features the brand’s own Indiglo illumination. The collection includes a range of finishes, colors, bracelet options and even a Timex x Pac-Man edition for that extra shot of ’80s flair.

Price: $59-$79

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Q Timex Reissue Digital LCA

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Whereas many of Casio’s digital watches have been continuously in production since the ’80s without any apparent sense of irony, Timex reached back into its archives to reissue a model with a little tongue-in-cheek nostalgic appeal. We like the resurrected Q Timex line for being proudly quartz, and the Digital LCA offers a throwback look with some nice details.

Price: $149

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Yema LED

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With an interesting history and modern watches that draw upon it in all the right ways, Yema is one of our favorite makers of tool watches and even their own in-house-designed mechanical movements. They also, however, make a reissue of their first LED watch from the 1970s as a “tribute to the historic quartz crisis” — it’s appropriately funky and shows another side of the French brand’s history and personality.

Price: $249+

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Nixon Regulus

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Although the Nixon Regulus has a negative display, it remains reasonably legible thanks to a large screen and bold font. It comes in several different case finishes and feels a bit retro and a bit modern at the same time — and not too similar to Casio’s oft-imitated design. It also has 100m of water resistance and is genuinely made to take a beating.

Price: $250

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Bulova Computron

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As offbeat as the Bulova Computron looks from a modern perspective, there was a time when many brands were making watches of this style, Bulova among them. It might be considered a type of “driver’s watch” because the digital display is situated on the side in order to face the wearer when his or her hands are on a steering wheel. With a steel case available in different finishes, this is one funky watch for today’s wrists, but one with some history too.

Price: $280+

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Seiko x Giugiaro Speed Master

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The Seiko x Giugiaro Design watches have been some of the most offbeat, interesting watches the Japanese brand has made — and that’s saying something. The Speed Master (no relation to Omega) is one of the most overlooked and forgotten models, but it’s known to have been worn by the legendary driver Ayrton Senna (better known for his relationship with TAG Heuer) — hence the tilted dial for driving (similar in purpose to the Computron above). Seiko did a faithful reissue a couple years ago as a limited edition which can still be found online with a little digging.

Price: ~$370

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Hamilton PSR

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Upon its debut in 1970, the Hamilton Pulsar Time Computer was the first digital LED watch, and it was positively space-age. The brand brought it back this year — now renamed the “PSR” — as a retro reissue. What’s coolest about it is that it’s executed as a luxury watch with a brushed finish and solid construction — and it’s well sized, too, at 40.8mm wide. While screens of early LED watches like the Pulsar remained dark (kinda like the Apple Watch today) until illuminated by the push of a button, the new PSR remains constantly on and can be further lit up in the same manner as the original Pulsars.

Price: $745+

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All There Is to Know About Quartz Watches

If you just want a solid, affordable watch to wear every day, there’s good news: you have tons of great options with quartz watches — those whose timekeeping is regulated with a tiny quartz crystal and powered by a battery.

Watchmakers of old strived to make their watches more accurate, reliable, robust, thinner, lighter, feature-heavy and economical to produce. Quartz achieves all of that, but it remains controversial in watch-collecting spheres where look down on the tech as less interesting than that of complex and expensive mechanical watches.

Maybe you just want to know what the real deal with quartz is. Or, perhaps you need practical advice on what features to look for or how to change a battery. To that end, we’ve collected topics that include everything from the technology’s history to the best brands and watches using it today. Everything you want to know about quartz watches and how to buy one is right here.

Everything You Need to Know Before Buying a Quartz Watch

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A primer on how quartz works, its benefits and examples of watches that use it well.

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Watch Collector on a Budget? Start With Vintage Quartz

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Seiko

More affordable and reliable than mechanical watches, vintage quartz watches make collecting less intimidating.

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5 Affordable Quartz Watches Even “Watch Guys” Want to Wear

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Henry Phillips

Long disdained by collectors with preferences for mechanical technology, sensibly priced quartz watches are finally in the crosshairs of connoisseurs.

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How to Change a Watch Battery

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Getting your quartz watch into working order need not necessitate an expensive trip to the jeweler.

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5 Watches Taking Quartz Movements to the Next Level

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Breitling

Increasingly, watchmakers are using quartz movements to push boundaries in the watch world.

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10 Watches That Prove Quartz Is Better Than You Think

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Quartz watches are often looked down upon, but they’re more reliable and accurate than their mechanical counterparts.

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The Best Watches Under $100

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Most of which are quartz.

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These Are the Best Watches Under $200

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Gear Patrol

A level up.

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These Watches Combine Quartz Movements and Mechanical Elements

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Yema

A small and strange part of horology, but one of the most affordable ways to get a nice-looking chronograph watch.

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Seiko’s Hybrid Technology Is Unique in Watchmaking

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Grand Seiko

Spring Drive offers the craftsmanship and wearing experience of mechanical watches and the accuracy of quartz. We examine how it works.

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How the Q Timex Swept the Watch World Off Its Feet

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Timex

We speak with Giorgio Galli, Timex Group’s Chief Design Director, about the brand’s quartz watch phenomenon — and their newest model.

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10 Great Solar-Powered Watches

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If you’re getting a quartz watch, one of the best features you can look for is solar charging.

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The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Is Turning 90

When considering the best-known “tool” watches — the Submariners and Speedmasters of the world — you come to realize that these are design objects that have been kicking around for quite a while already. They were born out of a post-War burst of creativity that enveloped the world, and they’re still going strong.

But consider some of the best-known dress watches of the last century or so, and you quickly realize that these timepieces are even older: Cartier’s Tank was born during World War I, and Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso, with it’s flippable case, will shortly be 90 years old. These are watches that remain more than simply popular today — they’re embedded within the horological and stylistic zeitgeist, not merely as historical objects, but as living, evolving icons.

We won’t recount the entire story of the Reverso here — for that, you can read this piece we wrote last year after a visit to JLC’s atelier in Switzerland. (The short story is: British officers stationed in India were breaking their glass watch crystals while playing polo. They requested a solution to this problem, and, very long story short, the Reverso was born. The watch could flip over to protect the glass crystal such that only the steel back was exposed — a unique solution to a fairly esoteric problem.)

However, we will say that the Reverso remains an icon well into the 21st century for several important reasons: it features a unique mechanism that allows the watch dial to be hidden and protected; its design allows for personalization of the case back with an engraving, enamel work, etc; and there are countless different sizes, colors, and complications that have been offered as part of the Reverso line. In fact, the watch has housed 50 different calibers since its debut in 1931.

Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Catherine Rénier spoke to the longevity of Reverso: “In a way, it’s the simplicity of the look — it’s pure, it’s symmetrical and well balanced. But the complexity to make it happen with a swiveling case…I believe these give it its timelessness. And a very strong code and design elements that have remained identifiable through the years have anchored around this image for Reverso, and this identity.”

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She continued: “There’s always this little magic when you turn the case over — even if you’ve seen it before, or it’s your own watch and you’ve done it a million times. Having a very personal message on the back or another face or complication is a unique feature and keeps surprising you. And for someone who’s never seen it before, it’s definitely a key feature of the piece. And I think that it’s timeless, for sure.”

There’s always this little magic when you turn the case over — even if you’ve seen it before, or it’s your own watch and you’ve done it a million times.

In celebrating the Reverso’s 90th anniversary, the maison is issuing a new limited edition timepiece, dubbed the Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano. Outfitted with a burgundy dial and a pink gold case, it pays homage to one of the earliest Reversos, which began using colored dials as early the 1930s. With a conventional 12-hour display on one side and a second time zone with 24-hour indicator on the reverse, this is the perfect Reverso for a frequent traveller. The lacquered burgundy dial and the silver guilloché of the second time zone dial are further enhanced by the addition of a burgundy strap by Casa Fagliano, an Argentinian maker of polo boots. (Fitting, considering the Reverso’s origins.) It takes Casa Fagliano roughly six hours to make a strap, which is padded with cotton canvas and cut from cordovan leather.

The DuoFace, which first debuted in 1994, is a unique envisioning of the travel complication: powered here by the hand-wound Jaeger-LeCoultre cal. 854A/2 with 42 hours of power reserve, it allows for monitoring of a second time zone without the need to have that functionality constantly visible. The watch appears, at first glance, like a simple, time-only dress watch, and it’s only upon further examination — and flipping the case around — that its utility as a travel watch is revealed. (Indeed, the DuoFace could be considered a sort of elegant tool watch.)

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Jaeger-LeCoultre

The Reverso has always been not only an icon, but a source of creativity and artistic design.

Rénier continued: “Over the past 90 years, the Reverso has remained very loyal to its beginnings — the style and design has remained key to the identity of the piece. It was always an opportunity for the maison to be very creative, starting right away in the 1930s with colored dials, one of which was a deep red that gave the idea for a more modern and contemporary burgundy that we are celebrating again this year with this new timepiece. The Reverso has always been not only an icon, but a source of creativity and artistic design.”

There are few timepieces that can truly be considered watchmaking icons, but the Reverso, now 90 years young, is certainly among them. Limited to 190 pieces, the Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano carries a price of $23,900 and is available exclusively from Jaeger-LeCoultre boutiques.

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The Virtual Watch Tradeshow That You Just Can’t Miss

When it comes to hunting for rare watches and reselling your favorite timepieces, there’s no doubt that eBay is king. The marketplace is synonymous with finding the watch of your dreams, and it has taken it to the next level by partnering with the International Watch & Jewelry Guild (IWJG) for the International Watch & Jewelry Guild Trade Show — coming online for the first time. Known for being the most active central exchange for acquiring, buying, selling and trading fine watches and more, the IWJC was founded in 1988 and has over 7,8000 members from 72 countries. Traditionally, you need to be an IWJG member to attend its tradeshow. But thanks to eBay, Gear Patrol readers can check out the show for themselves. The prices are truly one of a kind and, luckily for us, the event comes in right in time for the holidays.

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Turns Out Paul Newman’s Other Rolex Watch Is Also Worth Millions

This weekend, watches owned by Sylvester Stallone, Steve McQueen and Paul Newman each sold for eye-watering prices. The Phillips auction Racing Pulse featured even more celebrity watches, but these particular actors and their associations with watches make this an exceptionally notable watch event.

Even in a vacuum, without an iconic brand name or the celebrity of their former owners, these would still be cool watches. None, however, would be a multi-million-dollar watch by any stretch of the imagination. More than the movie-star status, it’s the deeper stories of each watch and how it fits into watch collecting culture that’s six-to-seven-figures special.

Paul Newman’s Rolex Daytona “Big Red”: $5,475,000

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Phillips

The actor and race car driver Paul Newman owned several Rolex Daytona chronograph watches. One of them auctioned for around $18m in 2017, making it the most expensive watch ever sold for a short time (until it was overtaken by this Patek Philippe). While the most famous and expensive “Paul Newman Daytona” (reference 6239) had an “exotic” white dial with black subdials, this “Big Red” (reference 6263) has the opposite color scheme (among other differences). Both were Rolex Daytonas owned by the actor, however, so why the huge delta?

The $18m Paul Newman Daytona featured in a particular, iconic photograph and single-handedly created nothing short of a scene among Rolex collectors. For around $6.5m, the Big Red’s hammer price seems almost (though not quite) cheap in comparison, but the buzz around “the” Paul Newman Daytona (the other one) certainly buoyed its value. Both feature the charming case back engraving “Drive Slowly,” this one signed by his wife, Joanne.

Steve McQueen’s Heuer Monaco: $2,208,000

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Phillips

Much like Newman and his Daytonas, actor and race car enthusiast Steve McQueen had several examples of the watch he made famous. It similarly featured in an iconic photograph, as well as appeared throughout the movie Le Mans. It was the Heuer Monaco chronograph, one of the first watches to feature an automatic chronograph movement and a watch with an undeniably distinctive look. The particular version auctioned here was given by the actor to his personal mechanic after the filming of the movie and includes a personalized case back message.

Sylvester Stallone’s Panerai: $214,200

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Phillips

Considering that legend of Sylvester Stallone largely”rediscovered” Panerai and was essentially responsible for the resurrection of the brand, one might have expected this watch to sell for even more. This is the exact watch that the action hero first wore during filming of the 1996 film Daylight. A known watch collector, Sly also put up several of his own Richard Mille watches for auction, but the Panerai reference 5218-201/A has unique meaning to the watch industry and to the collector community.

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Convert Any Table into a Watchmaking Studio with This Portable Desk

In an increasingly WFH era, you may have browsed products that convert your regular desk into a standing desk. There are plenty of good options for laptop stands and the like, but what if your work or hobby involves getting up close with small items like watches or electronics? The new Etablee OE1 may be just the thing for you — and it’s built to the standards of a luxury watch, to boot.

etablee

Etablee

The main thing that makes a watchmaker’s bench different from other desks is that its surface needs to be at chest level so watchmakers don’t need to lean forward all day. Rather than investing in a dedicated bench, the Etablee OE1 sits atop another desk to provide this surface. Made of lightweight materials (a total weight of just 1.86kg), it’s meant to be easy to set up and remove as necessary and yet to be completely sturdy. Created by a horology educator, it’s also intended to provide a level of craftsmanship similar to that which watchmakers are familiar with in luxury watches.

The 65cm x 40cm surface is made of carbon fiber and its corners are curved elegantly downward to make for ergonomic arm rests. Sitting 20cm tall, it’s supported on a honeycomb-patterned aluminum frame with rubber foot pads. With technical materials and a sophisticated design, it’s an attractive appointment in and of itself and can be ordered directly from the brand for $1,195.

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The 10 Best Watches Under $10,000

If five figures is the hard cap for your next timepiece, you have some incredible watches to choose from — but it’s a choice you likely want to make carefully. This is, after all, the world of in-house movements, increasingly exotic (yet lust-worthy) complications, and some of horology’s heaviest hitters.

With that in mind, our favorite choices run the gamut: watches for divers, chronographs for drivers, timepieces for would-be CEOs and a few that dip toes in all waters at once. These are the ten best watches under $10,000.

Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Classic

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The Reverso probably belongs on any list of the most iconic watches of all time, and its modern version is as cool as ever. Not only is it brimming with history as one of the rare non-round watches to really have staying power, but it’s got a neat little gimmick that almost no other watch can match. Aside from its distinctive and handsome look, the case itself can be flipped around (on-wrist) in order to protect the dial. It’s got such a solid and satisfying action that you’ll just want to fiddle with it (rather than need to protect the dial from rough polo matches, as was its original purpose). Available in a wide array of variations, this Medium model has a manually wound movement that helps it wear nice and thin.

Diameter: 25.5mm
Movement
: Jaeger-LeCoultre 822/2 hand-wound
Price: $6,300

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Omega Seamaster 300

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Based on a dive watch that Omega originally launched in 1957, the Seamaster 300’s throwback look contrasts with the brand’s more contemporary and aggressive models like the Planet Ocean. Omega typically offers a strong value, and the Seamaster 300 is no exception with its impressive build quality and in-house automatic movement featuring its famous Co-Axial escapement. At 41mm, it’s just the right mix of sporty and conservative to constitute a perfect everyday watch.

Diameter: 41mm
Movement
: Omega 8400 automatic
Price: $6,500

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Montblanc Star Legacy Orbis Terrarum

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In the $5k-$10k range, watches from prestige brands like Rolex and Panerai are still going to offer only basic functionality. Brands operating closer to the entry-level luxury price tier like Montblanc, on the other hand, often offer incredible value with complications and interesting features that would cost an arm and a leg otherwise. The Montblanc Star Legacy Orbis Terrarum not only offers the handy world time complication courtesy of a modified Sellita SW350 GMT movement, but puts it in a visually compelling package.

Diameter: 43mm
Movement
: MB 29.20 automatic
Price: $7,100

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Grand Seiko Heritage Hi-Beat GMT

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At one time, Grand Seiko needed to explain its luxury pricing and what made its watches so many steps above the ultra affordable Seikos upon which the company built its reputation — not so anymore. On top of a supremely balanced design and high level of refinement, the brand’s Heritage line offers several models with an exotic hi-beat automatic movement (which operates at 5Hz rather than the more typical 4Hz) with a GMT function. With an in-house movement and lightweight titanium case to boot, you probably can’t do better for $7,400 for an everyday watch.

Diameter: 40mm
Movement
: Seiko 9S86 automatic
Price: $7,400

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IWC Portugieser Chronograph

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The often-sportily styled IWC Portugieser has stood the test of time as one of the most versatile chronographs available. The new 2020 models got outfitted with in-house movements that make the Portugieser ever more compelling. These are well made and nice-looking movements, to boot, which can be viewed through display case backs. Further, the new movements allow for a 41mm case, which is the magic size for many people. The entire design comes together with classic dials which retain their striking look with strong legibility and pleasing balance.

Diameter: 41mm
Movement
: IWC 69355 automatic
Price: $7,950

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Zenith Chronomaster Revival Shadow

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There is a sporty yet casual elegance to this timepiece that few marques can balance as well as Zenith. At 37mm, the case has a very retro profile, but its all-black treatment gives it a distinctly modern feel. Of course, Zenith’s claim to fame resides with its 36,000 vph El Primero automatic chronograph movement. Those extra oscillations (compared to the standard 28,800 vph) made the original 1969 El Primero a more accurate version of the world’s first mechanical chronograph, beating joint efforts by Heuer and Breitling.

Diameter: 37mm
Movement
: Zenith El Primero 400 automatic
Price: $8,200

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Frederique Constant Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture

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It’s rare to find an in-house, automatic, full perpetual calendar for under five figures. And yet Frederique Constant offers just that. Credit Frederique Constant’s dedication to delivering affordable luxury to clients and collectors more concerned with complications than marketing budgets. The FC-775 calibre came together over three years of development and its ease of assembly is what manages to keep costs surprisingly low. Now, it’s housed in a sporty new case with and integrated bracelet design.

Diameter: 41mm
Movement
: Frederique Constant FC-775 automatic
Price: $9,295

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Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph

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From 30 yards out, even the most casual observer can recognize a Navitimer — they would need to get much closer to actually read one, of course, thanks to the plethora of information contained within its busy dial. There’s a slide rule as well as three subdials for the chronograph which together amount to a striking and distinctive look. Typically, such a smorgasbord would be overwhelming, but the Navitimer has pulled it off with impeccable style since 1954 and continues to do so. Here with contrasting subdials to make it a “reverse panda” and an in-house movement, what’s not to love?

Diameter: 43mm
Movement
: Breitling B01 automatic
Price: $9,250

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Rolex Submariner

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There is little to be written about the Rolex Submariner that hasn’t been before. The Oyster Perpetual earned its reputation through associations with James Bond, Edmund Hilary and the Marianas Trench. As always, the new 41mm Oyster case iteration is machined from 904L stainless steel, a superalloy that contains more nickel and chromium in its composition — which makes for a more robust timepiece that holds its shine much longer. Powered by Rolex’s in-house 3235 calibre self-winding movement, this Sub is a certified chronometer that utilizes a Parachrom hairspring to maintain impeccable accuracy.

Diameter: 41mm
Movement
: Rolex 3235 automatic
Price: $9,550

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Panerai Submersible Azzurro PAM 1209

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Exclusively available to online, the Panerai Submersible Azzurro is practical and wearable as an everyday dive watch with an automatic movement with up to three days of power reserve and a delicious 42mm case. Though the basic Panerai design is rooted in dive watches for the Italian navy, the modern brand’s dedicated dive watch highlights that history and offers 300m of water resistance. Though brightened up with sporty blue, its handsome look is going to pair with straps of all kinds.

Diameter: 42mm
Movement
: Panerai P.900 automatic
Price: $9,800

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How to Be a Watch Guy

Are you struck by the coolness of dudes stopping in the middle of the street to take iPhone photos of their wrists? Do wonder how you can be more like them? Well, if you like watches then you’re well on your way to being a “watch guy.” All it really takes is an obsessive interest in these ticking little mechanisms — but the real question is how to get the most out of the hobby.

Watches are simple (and yet complex) little gadgets, but there’s a lot involved in collecting and appreciating them. As much as it’s a nerdy pursuit steeped in researching obscure reference numbers, it’s also a vibrant social scene. What are the best ways to meet fellow enthusiasts, and what the hell is a “Kermit?” How can I remove scratches from a watch case myself, and where should I go to take care of issues that require a trained watchmaker?

These questions and more are answered in our How to Be a Watch Guy series, a collection of advice and information that serves as a reference for the newbie and veteran watch guy alike. It’s also a fun read.

To Get More Out of Watch Collecting, Meet Other Collectors

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Chris Wright

The ins and outs of watch collector meetups.

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How to Talk Watches: 26 Slang Terms Every Wannabe Expert Should Know

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Hunter Kelley

Our guide to watch slang will arm you with the lingo you need to sound like an expert and hang with the #watchfam.

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How to Pick the Right Size Watch for You

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Cartier, Panerai, Rolex, IWC

You know those “rules” about which watch size is correct for your wrist? Forget about those.

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Have You Fallen Out of Love with Your Watch? Why Not Trade for a New One

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Chris Wright

If you’re stuck with a watch you don’t wear, trading it for something you love may be the ticket.

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How to Find a Watch Repair Shop You Can Trust

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It takes a bit of insider knowledge to find the right watchmaker.

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Why Buying a “Frankenwatch” Is Part of Every True Watch Collector’s Journey

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Arlington Watches

Getting duped — or at least taking a low-risk gamble — is part of the fun of becoming a collector.

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How to Remove Scratches from a Stainless Steel Watch Case

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Grand Seiko

Pesky little scratches on your shiny new watch are a bummer. Here’s what to do about them.

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This Traveler’s Watch Is the Ultimate Status Symbol

If you’re like us and planning your adventures for next year, don’t forget to consider your most important companion — the wristwatch. Whether you’re rushing to catch your next transfer or need to keep track of your next business meeting, having a watch that allows you to keep track of time in two locations at once is paramount. But beyond that, it’s all about reliability, legibility and functionality. With those considerations in mind, look no further than the Glashütte Original Senator Cosmopolite.


Glashütte Original Senator Cosmopolite

A Refined Watch Built for Travel

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Gear Patrol Studios

gps

Gear Patrol Studios

gps

Gear Patrol Studios

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Gear Patrol Studios

The Senator Cosmopolite is feature-packed, offering tons of functionality not just for the world traveler, but for the executive working remotely, who needs to stay on top of a calendar that spans multiple time zones. The watch features Glashütte Original’s in-house Caliber 89-02 movement, and displays two time zones on the in-house dial manufactory in Pforzheim. Each hand and hour mark is also inlaid with Super-LumiNova allowing it to be easily read either on your wrist in the dark or on a bedside table. And if you forget to wind it for a while, not to worry. The Senator Cosmopolite features a 72-hour power reserve.

As far as styling, the watch is finished in a stunning galvanic blue dial with sunray finish. Not to worry if you prefer a steel bracelet or leather, the Senator Cosmopolite is available with either. The blue Louisiana alligator strap is available in either a pin buckle or fold fastener and the stainless steel bracelet is built with an eight-step fine adjustment mechanism.

  • Case size: 44mm
  • Movement: Caliber 89-02
  • Power reserve: 72 hours
  • Dial: Galvanic blue dial with sunray finish
  • Price: $21,500

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    Gear Patrol Studios

    gps

    Gear Patrol Studios

The Astor & Banks Fortitude Is One of the Best Field Watches of 2020

Astor & Banks Fortitude, $525-$550

Yes — you’ve long been able to buy yourself a decent field watch for not too much money. But what about a decent field watch for not too much money and that has a whole lot of character? That’s harder to come by. For that, you might want to look into buying American.

Key Specs:

Case Diameter: 38.5mm
Case Depth: 11.9mm
Water Resistance: 200m
Movement: Miyota 9015 automatic
Price: $525-$550

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And no — we don’t mean one hundred. percent. American. made. (There isn’t really such thing in watches.) But we do mean American-owned, and American-designed, and American-assembled. We’re talking about Astor & Banks out of Chicago, and their new Fortitude field watch. Available in four dial colors (plus a special edition for Chicago-based retailer BLVDier Custom Clothier), it’s well-sized, handsome, automatic, and it comes on a great bracelet. Oh, and did we mention it’s less than $600 at the moment?

Notable

Finding a watch that features the aesthetic sensibilities of a category of timepieces and yet doesn’t feel particularly derivative of any one model can be a challenge. The Fortitude, though it takes cues from classic brands like Rolex and from significant, historical tool watches, is very much its own design. What’s more, it’s eminently affordable despite its premium features, which include anti-magnetic shielding, a sapphire crystal with anti-glare coating, an automatic movement adjusted in-house, 200m of water resistance, and a matching steel bracelet.

fortitude

Vincent Lions

fortitude

Vincent Lions

Who It’s For

Whether you’re looking for an everyday watch or a watch to specifically wear outdoors, the Fortitude is an appropriate choice. While devotees of blue chip brands will likely stick to their Rolexes, Omegas and IWCs, those newer to the watch hobby or operating on a tighter budget would be delighted by the Astor & Banks design sensibilities. Hell, even those seasoned watch guys (and gals — there’s a mother-of-pearl dial available on the Fortitude) may find this watch to be the perfect travel watch, weekend “beater,” or casual watch.

Alternatives

So many. This price range — the sub-$1,000 one — is ripe with interesting watches these days. You might try the newly released Merci X Hodinkee collaboration watch ($495), which features similar dimensions for similar money (though it’s handwound and doesn’t come with a bracelet). Hamilton’s Khaki Field Mechanical ($495) is of course another great option, though again — no bracelet. If you want a bracelet, you might try the Seiko Alpinist SPB117 ($750), which, though a bit more money than the Fortitude, comes with the cachet of a large brand and has a useful inner compass bezel.

Review

Andrew Perez, founder of Astor & Banks, sent over three Fortitudes for review: the blue dial, the white dial, and the mother-of-pearl dial. The 38.5mm, stainless steel case is fairly complex for a ~$500 watch, featuring a mix of brushed surfaces with a polished bevel on the lugs and a brushed bezel with vertical grain. Deep Watch Nerds will be delighted to hear that it features a punched case with lug holes for easy strap changing.

The case otherwise features a solid case back, a screw-down crown and a flat, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. Attached to the case is a cool, flat-link steel bracelet, somewhat of a mix between classic Omega and Rolex models. It features a folding clasp with micro-adjust and ships with extra links, and if I had one complaint, it’s that it’s actually a bit too tough to open — I found myself having to use the folded metal underside as leverage in order to release it when on my wrist. Hopefully this will ease up with wear.

astor banks fortitude side

Astor & Banks

The Fortitude’s dial is where all the action is. Each color has its own draw — I personally love the blue’s ambiguity, while the white is also handsome and slightly reminiscent of a Rolex Explorer II — but the dial features remain the same across each iteration: You’ve got applied, wedge-shaped indices, a recessed date window ay 6 o’clock (in place of an applied index), sword hands, an outer 1/5th-seconds track, simple branding executed in different colors depending upon the dial color, and that’s largely it. The dial itself is split into an inner and outer circle by a faint recess, which gives it the illusion of some more depth.

It’s a handsome, legible design, and given ample Super-LumiNova on the indices and hands, you should have no trouble seeing it at night in low-light conditions. My one quibble is that the date window is far enough recessed from the main dial that on the white model, it can be slightly difficult to read, depending on the viewing angle. (There’s better contrast on the blue-dialed model, I think.) But this is hardly a deal-breaker for me, and other wearers may have no problem at all.

astor banks fortitude lume

Astor & Banks

Given the cases’s 38.5mm diameter, the Fortitude could be perfectly appropriate for female as well as male wearers, and Perez even offers the watch with a mother-of-pearl dial. While not something I personally gravitate to, it’s well-executed and pretty — especially as it’s offset with blued steel hands.

On-wrist, the Fortitude is super comfortable. I have to say, despite the watch’s affordable price tag, the accompanying bracelet is among the more comfortable I’ve ever worn on a tool watch. The links articulate well and envelop your wrist, rather than protrude from it, all of which is helped along by a watch case that measures only 11.9mm tall, including the crystal. The size is just perfect, and the thing looks killer. What more could one ask for?

fortitude green dial

Vincent Lions

While I didn’t wear the Fortitude on a strap, its 20mm lug width mean it should take comfortably to any type that you pair it with, from NATO to leather to rubber. (The watch actually ships with an extra leather strap, a strap-changing tool and a Horween leather pouch.) And while not a dive watch, 200m of water resistance and a screw-down crown mean you can absolutely take it in the pool or the ocean with you. (Just be sure to clean it properly afterward.)

Verdict

The Fortitude is a great choice in mid-priced field watches. So long as the bracelet clasp loosens up a bit over time, it would make a perfect everyday watch, a perfect field-specific watch, a perfect vacation watch…I could go on. And multiple dial colors — including a fun, mint green — mean there’s a Fortitude for every type of buyer. Our advice: buy one now at introductory pricing ($525-$550) before the MSRP increases a hair to $650-$695. Though even at those numbers, the Fortitude is a home run.

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Everything You Ever Wanted to Know About Rolex Watches

The status and power of the Rolex brand are larger than life. You wouldn’t be alone in feeling its charismatic pull — or in being a little intimidated by the high prices, the hype, the plethora of models and information.

And who could blame you? Rolex sometimes seems like a world unto itself: Experts speaking in reference numbers about why tiny red lettering on a dial makes one particular model so sublime, why scratched-up old cases are superior, or why you often have to pay above retail for new Rolexes…What does it all mean? And how the hell do I get one on my wrist?

All your burning questions shall be answered, and more. Here, we’ve gathered every Rolex sub-topic that you’ve ever wondered about (but were perhaps afraid to ask), from a comprehensive overview of the brand and its current offerings to more in-depth looks at history, iconic models and specific topics like navigating your watch purchase. Dive in below.

The Complete Rolex Buying Guide: Every Current Model Explained

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Rolex

We distill down the world of modern Rolex to something easily decipherable to help give you a leg up for your next purchase.

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How to Buy a Rolex Watch

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Buying a Rolex may sound simple, but that’s not always the case.

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Everything You Need to Know About Rolex’s Most Popular Watch

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Rolex

From languishing on shelves to becoming the hottest watch in the world, Rolex’s Cosmograph Daytona has had a wild ride, indeed.

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Want a Rolex Daytona? Here Are Three Worthy Alternatives That Won’t Cost as Much

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These three handsome chronograph watches offer attractive alternatives to the Rolex Daytona experience, with versatile appeal and strong value.

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6 Questions With the Man Who Sold the Holy Grail of Vintage Watches

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Phillips

James Cox shares how he got Newman’s Rolex Daytona, his own history with the watch and his feelings on its sale.

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Why Do People Go Crazy for Vintage Rolexes?

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Henry Phillips

Making sense of the rapidly growing market for old Rolexes.

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What Makes Rolex’s GMT-Master The Best Travel Watch Ever?

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Rolex

This two-timer from the jet age is technically and aesthetically the mother of all GMT watches.

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Everything You Need to Know to Buy a Rolex Datejust

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Rolex; HQ Milton

The Rolex Datejust, in continuous production since 1945, is one of the most popular watches in the world.

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How Rolex and the Date Window Changed the Face of Watches

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Rolex

The common 3 o’clock date display window originates from none other than the Rolex Datejust introduced in 1945.

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3 Ways to Get a Modern Rolex on Your Wrist for Less Than You Think

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Rolex

Rolex’s overlooked models offer a ton of value and a (relatively) accessible entry point to the iconic brand.

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Here Are Some of the Crazy Nicknames Given to 10 Famous Rolex Watches

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.

“Kermit,” “Snowflake,” “Hulk” — what is this, a Guy Ritchie film?

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History of the Rolex Submariner: How the Dive Watch Has Changed Over Time

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We take a look at how the world’s most famous watch has evolved over the past three generations.

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Three Cheaper Alternatives to the Rolex Submariner

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Rolex

These three handsome dive watches offer attractive alternatives to the Rolex Submariner experience, with high quality, versatile appeal and strong value.

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Sean Connery Put the Rolex Submariner on the Map

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The legendary Scottish actor, who passed away at 90, will forever be remembered as the first — and best — James Bond.

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Rolex’s New Oyster Perpetual Is Already Generating Controversy Among Watch Fans

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Rolex

The new Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41 — available in a range of colors — replaces the 39mm version, which was a fan favorite.

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Why Is There a Domino’s Pizza Logo on This Rolex?

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Antiquorum

How did one of the world’s foremost watchmakers end up producing a watch for the official pizza of high-school pizza parties?

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This Is the Most Important Rolex Watch You’ve Never Heard of

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Phillips/Abbrescia Santinelli

The Rolex Submariner and Daytona can both trace their roots to a single innovative — and largely unknown — watch.

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Add This Vintage Rolex Book To Your Library Right Now

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Vintage Rolex Field Manual

The Vintage Rolex Field Manual: Chevalier Edition is required reading for any serious Rolex enthusiast.

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John Mayer and G-Shock Teamed Up on a New Watch

What do you get when you throw Japanese watch manufacturer Casio, Grammy Award-winning guitarist and songwriter John Mayer, and watch enthusiast website Hodinkee into a (proverbial) blender? Evidently, something that looks like the above watch.

Cool, right?? The new ref. 6900 is inspired by the Casiotone SK-5 sampling keyboard, a 1980s favorite of musicians young and old that Mayer played while growing up. (Many musicians have cited the Casiotone line as an early musical inspiration.) The G-Shock ref. 6900. first launched in 1995, is beloved by watch devotees of all stripes and often serves as the backdrop for streetwear collaborations.

jm g shock

Hodinkee

In bridging the gap between vintage musical inspiration and modern horological standout (both of which are made by the same company), Mayer chose to highlight the SK-5’s Dayglow-esque palette of yellow and teal on the new watch’s slate grey body. Said Mayer: “When Casio approached me about the possibility of working together on a G-SHOCK, it actually timed out really well. I had already been pretty deep into wearing the ‘Mudmaster’ models, and something felt cosmically right about a G-SHOCK being the first watch collab I’ve ever done. Casio keyboards came to mind as much as the watches did. Then I remembered how important the Casiotone SK-5 was in my life, and it got exciting really fast. It’s the perfect bridge between my double life as a musician and a watch enthusiast.”

For those unfamiliar with the ref. 6900, it features a 53.2mm-wide resin case, a Japanese quartz movement, and is chock-full of functionality, including a 24-hour clock, a stopwatch, a countdown timer, a multi-functional alarm, and more. They’re also so tough that they’ve become a military favorite. (Mine still has mud in the buttons. And it still works.)

The limited edition Casio G-SHOCK Ref 6900 byJ ohn Mayer is available now from the Hodinkee Shop, G-Shock’s website, G-SHOCK Soho and select G-SHOCK boutiques for $180.

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How the Q Timex Swept the Watch World Off Its Feet

Adapt, or die.

Such was the choice facing the watchmakers of the 1970s. Quartz technology — the regulation of a wristwatch via quartz crystal and a battery, rather than a hand-wound or automatically wound spring, had arrived, and it wasn’t going anywhere. The future of the mechanical wristwatch looked grim, and those who weren’t prepared to hop on the technological bandwagon faced extinction. Many firms indeed went extinct.

Of course, the mechanical watch never really went away. Now, we live in a world in which hand-wound and automatic timepieces are once again appreciated, to the point where now-vintage examples of classic references can command prices in the seven or eight figures at auction. And with an incredible variety of quartz watches (and now, smartwatches) available, both the watch enthusiast and casual consumer have never been more spoiled for choice.

But back to quartz for a moment. So many adherents of mechanical watchmaking today deride the humble quartz movement. “It’s soulless,” they say. “It’s mass-produced,” they complain. But what of the technology itself? It’s worlds more accurate than its mechanical counterpart. It’s cheaper. It’s easier to service (most of the time, it’s in fact easier to simply replace a dud quartz movement.) And because it’s so affordable, you can collect quartz watches in a way that simply isn’t feasible with mechanical watches.

This is where Timex fits in. Long champions of affordable watchmaking, the American firm has been in business since 1854, first producing mechanical timepieces, and then, in the 1970s, quartz. Most of their production is still quartz-based, though they’ve been introducing more and more mechanical wristwatches lately.

Timex’s affordable wares are many a young person’s first watch. Think of the Weekender — the horological patron saint of collegiate life. These affordable quartz watches were the gateway for many people now firmly ensconced in the watch world.

q timex

Timex

But things changed further with 2019’s introduction of the wildly popular Q Timex. Based on a model dating to the 1970s and featuring a blue dial with day-date display, a colorful, Rolex-inspired 12-hour bezel and a fun, lightweight mesh bracelet, the Q was an instant smash hit, and sold out several times over. Its easily accessible battery hatch celebrated rather than derided quartz, and people loved it.

So much so, in fact, that Timex continued to riff on the design and release numerous Qs throughout 2020: the original in myriad bezel and dial colors; the 1978-inspired Falcon Eye; and an outlier, the automatic M79, which retained the Q’s looks but added a mechanical movement. People were hooked, it would seem, and Timex was happy to oblige its fan base.

So where does Timex go from here? Despite its forays back into mechanical watchmaking with models like the M79, fun, affordable quartz watches have clearly been embraced by the public at large, and continue to earn Timex a seat at the cultural table. The company is embracing this reality, and has recently added the latest Q model to the collection, the 1975-inspired Marmont. With a seemingly endless supply of vintage models in its archive, the American-founded horological powerhouse can afford to reissue them ad infinitum. (Or at least for now — it’ll be an interesting day indeed when the vintage well does in fact run dry.)

q timex falcon eye

Timex

We had the chance to speak with Timex Group’s Chief Design Director, Giorgio Galli, once again to discuss the Q line, the new model, and what the future holds for this wildly successful model that’s popular with newbies, aficionados, and everyone in between.

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This interview has been edited for length and clarity.


Many watch companies focus their heritage releases on mechanical products. Can you explain the original inspiration to look specifically into Timex’s quartz archives?

Our recent reissues celebrate a major defining moment in Timex history — the Quartz Crisis, or better known as the “Quartz Revolution” at Timex. The 1970s brought our first range of quartz watches out of necessity, but it also changed the way we designed watches forever. That ’70s look and its appeal is just as strong today as it was more than 40 years ago. Mechanical watches and reissues are also part of our brand strategy today, and in addition to the extensive line of Q releases we have done to date. There is also the MK1 and the Marlin hand-wound and mechanicals that riff on this heritage. For now, though, we see the most strength in our Q collection reissues.

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Timex

q timex gold

Timex

Are each of the models fairly faithful to their inspiration, or have you upgraded or improved the designs to suit the modern wearer?

We have tried to replicate the aesthetic values of the original watches as closely as possible. The case designs and measurements are per the original watches and the movements have been selected to replicate the original functions (or recreated in the case of the Q Timex Reissue Digital LCA). However, we have upgraded the case materials to stainless steel and in the case of some functions, such as the lighting system on the LCA, we have replicated the look of the single bulb to the side of the display as used decades ago, only this time using a single LED bulb.

The first Q reissue was an instant hit, selling out multiple times. Were you at all surprised by its incredible success, or did you anticipate its resonance with the Timex audience?

At the start, we chose styles for Q reissues that we thought would resonate most with watch collectors and Timex enthusiasts, so we were not surprised at how excited they were about the first Q Timex 1979 Reissue. We also choose reissue styles where the design aesthetic and functionality have a story to be told. We lean into classic ‘70s design elements such as the band style, unique colorways on the watch face and the recent gold and rose gold colors we launched. As you know, the Q story is one of our favorites and we are glad to see it resonate so well with fans, too.

The M79 is an interesting outlier in that it’s mechanical, but seems to fit within the “Q” collection. Did you sense a hunger for a mechanical version of the Q aesthetic after the original “Pepsi” model was released?

The M79 was born out of consumer demand for great styling but with an automatic movement. The M79’s origin goes back to traditional mechanical watchmaking, while maintaining a close tie to the design language of the modern Q Timex collection, which we’ve seen much success with and (for which) demand has been high. We just recently launched an all-black M79, which in this same vain is sleek and has been popular.

timex m79

Timex

Tell me a bit about the new Marmont and its gold-colored case. Were you inspired by Hollywood, given its name and opulence?

The Marmont has a very unique case design with a reverse and concave curvature on its top profile. And yes, it is Hollywood-inspired. You can think of old Hollywood — the Chateau Marmont or Once Upon a Time in Hollywood — when looking at this watch. The design has that kind of flavor that takes you back to that Hollywood/movie star era. It makes you dream, and it gives you a glamorous and chic look to go along with it.

q timex marmont

Timex

Where does this new model fit into the collection — do you imagine customers owning both the Marmont and something in steel, more for everyday wear?

The Marmont is special in its uniqueness and allure – you can tell just by the design that it is different from all other Qs before it. Some people will put it on to add glamour to their everyday look and for others, it may not be a watch for everyday use, but for special occasions. True fans will love it, appreciate its story, design, and know how to wear it.

There are now myriad iterations of the bi-color bezel Q. But are there many more available distinct quartz models within the archives to reimagine within this heritage collection? What’s the future of the Q line?

There has been a desire recently from consumers for automatic and mechanical (hand-wound) watches. The “Q,” instead, is a tribute to the quartz era and technology of Timex that deserves respect and appreciation. It is a celebration from a Timex period that was highly creative and dominant in the US market. The “Q” is becoming a permanent Timex collection, offering a category within a category, now inspired, and taken directly from the past but with an evolution for the future.

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Timex

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The Complete Guide to Watch Maintenance

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Watches are comparatively basic little machines that do a simple job and should bring you joy: nothing too intimidating or high-maintenance. At least, they don’t have to be. With a little care, the right tools and some basic knowledge, you can have a satisfying watch experience that lasts decades.

All the information out there regarding watch maintenance can be overwhelming sometimes, though — we get it. And that’s why it’s helpful to have the ABCs of watch care collected in one place as a handy reference. The following wisdom will help you avoid problems with watches, and guide you to the best solutions when issues do occur. (Even veteran watch collectors sometimes need to be reminded of best practices.) Whether your watch needs a new battery, a good cleaning or something more complicated and expensive, we’ve got you covered.

Here’s the place to start if you just got a new watch; and it’s the place to refer back to when you’ve got questions down the road.

A Complete Guide To Mechanical Watch Maintenance

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Rolex

Get an overview of how mechanical watches work and why certain practices are important.

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How to Find a Watch Repair Shop You Can Trust

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Courtesy

Unless you’re a trained watchmaker, don’t mess with the complicated insides of a mechanical watch yourself.

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How to Set a Watch, and Two Things You Should Never, Ever Do

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Chase Pellerin

This is super basic and something every watch owner should know (though many don’t).

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How to Change a Watch Battery

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Getting your quartz watch into working order need not necessitate an expensive trip to the jeweler.

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Watch Cleaning 101: How to Properly Care for Yours

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Worn & Wound

If you regularly wear a watch or if you’ve purchased one secondhand, it’ll need some cleaning.

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Why You Aren’t Supposed to Polish a Watch

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Henry Phillips

Hint: Polishing your watch can decrease its value.

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How to Remove Scratches from a Stainless Steel Watch Case

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Grand Seiko

Pesky little scratches on your shiny new watch are a bummer. Here’s what to do about them.

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How to Easily Remove Scratches from Your Watch Crystal

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Courtesy

A fresh scratch on an otherwise flawless crystal is a devastating sight.

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This Is How to Maintain a Dive Watch

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Hunter D. Kelley

A diver may be the ultimate “tool” watch, but it still needs some TLC.

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The Tools You Need For Your Watch

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Hodinkee Shop

There are just a few tools that watch wearers truly require…and a few more that maybe you want.

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No, You Don’t Actually Need a Watch Winder — Here’s Why

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Barrington

While some are willing to pay for the convenience, the idea of a watch winder as an essential tool of watch ownership is largely unfounded.

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6 Questions With the Man Who Sold the Holy Grail of Vintage Watches

It would be an understatement to call Paul Newman’s actual ref. 6239 Rolex Daytona one of the most important timepieces to go up for auction in recent memory. It’s certainly been the most talked about. For years, its whereabouts were unknown to the public until news broke this summer that, since 1984, it has belonged to James Cox, who’d been dating Newman’s daughter Nell at the time. Not only that, Cox would be putting the watch up for auction.

A “standard” 6239 “Paul Newman” is rare enough as it is, with examples selling at auction for well over $200,000 in most cases, but Phillips — the auction house tasked with selling off Newman’s watch — expect the Hollywood legend’s watch to exceed $1 million. According to Bloomberg, some enthusiasts speculate it will surpass $10 million. Here’s hoping it does, because according to Cox, “the lion’s share” of the proceeds will be going to Nell Newman’s foundation, which carries on Paul Newman’s own legacy of philanthropy by giving resources to small nonprofits worldwide. (Editor’s note: This interview took place before the sale of the watch in late 2017.)

But beyond the press coverage, the rarity of the watch and the (presumably) astronomical sale price, there is the very personal and human story of Paul Newman’s generosity. I recently spoke with Cox over the phone to hear more about his own history with Newman, the Daytona and his feelings on selling the “holy grail” of vintage watch finds.

Q: Tell me the story of how you got the watch.
A: I was eighteen years old, and working for Paul helping him build this treehouse; this was a summer job so I could make some money for college. I think Paul had thought it out beforehand. He was the kind of guy that rolled so cool and so apparently spontaneous, that I think in this particular case when I came over he fully had the intention of giving me the watch. You know, he was an actor and he could just make this environment super cool, whether he had scripted this or actually forgotten to wind it. He asked me for the time, and I said, “I don’t have a watch, I don’t know what time it is,” and that’s when he said, “If you remember to wind this it tells pretty good time.” And then he handed it to me. And there’s Paul, you know, he may not have wound it the day before so that this would play well. Or it could have been spontaneous, but I think the gift was very genuine.

He spent some time showing me how to roll the winder and screw it down, and he did try to explain that it was a chronograph, a timepiece great for racing. When you look at photos of Paul racing, he’s always got the sleeves rolled up, and so he’s really using it. This Daytona was used in that way and was important to Paul when he was racing, which maybe makes it even more special that he gave it to me.

This Daytona was used in that way and was important to Paul when he was racing, which maybe makes it even more special that he gave it to me.

Q: When did you realize the kind of value the watch really had?
A: I think it was when I had gone to an outdoor retailer trade show in the early ’90s. A Japanese guy who didn’t speak much English saw my watch and said, “Paul Newman watch, Paul Newman watch!” And I said, “Yeah, Paul Newman’s watch,” and we couldn’t communicate well enough to move on beyond that back-and-forth, and I thought, “God, how does this guy know this is Paul Newman’s watch?”

Then a few years later, I was walking by a Rolex dealer in Monterey, and there’s a guy standing outside with a Rolex lab coat on, smoking a cigarette, and in the window were a couple Daytonas. I asked him, “What’s retail on those Daytonas?” He looks at me and says “Oh, well, it’s probably about $60,000 to $70,000 on that one, and we have a few more Paul Newmans in back.” And that was my second clue that these guys are calling the watch a Paul Newman, so that’s when I started putting it together. I asked, “What if you had Paul Newman’s actual watch, what would that be worth?” He said maybe about $300,000.

Q: Did you wear it a lot?
A: It was my daily wear through most of college after it was given to me. I was extremely careful with it and I always knew where it was for every day I’ve owned it. I’ve really had no other watches of real significance. So if I was traveling and I knew there was a wildfire in California, and I knew the watch was in my house, it was the first thing I was concerned about. I think to own this thing, it became a responsibility once I realized how important it was to the watch world and how iconic it was. That was six or seven years ago. I said, “Wow, I need to put this thing in a safety deposit box and be careful with it.” I was traveling a lot and didn’t want to wear it and have something going wrong — I just thought it was too risky.

PhotoCredit_Douglas-Kirkland-_-Corbis-via-Getty-Images-Ambiance
Douglas Kirkland / Corbis via Getty Images

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Q: A lot of people are calling this a “holy grail” of watch collecting. Would you agree?
A: I think that there were definitely times where I questioned that, because it’s just surreal to think that I am in possession of such an iconic thing. We’ve all heard stories where someone had some special car in their garage and didn’t know it, or there’s this very valuable thing that appears in the marketplace, and sometimes the people aren’t aware of the backstory or how amazing it was. Those stories sound really crazy to me, yet I’m one of those stories now, and it’s just hard to kind of get a handle on it. I think it’s because it’s such a personal item for me, that has helped to keep it more grounded.

I think it’s because it’s such a personal item for me, that has helped to keep it more grounded.

Q: So what does that watch mean to you personally?
A: It represents one of the sweetest times in my life. I was in college, I had a great new girlfriend, I’m living at the Newmans’ house. I grew up humbly, and this was a family who was really classy with a lot of resources. They weren’t, as a lot of people imagine them, a famous Hollywood couple with how they behaved; they were just a very down-to-earth family — but they were doing cool things. I went from my very modest upbringing into an environment that was filled with thinkers. Thinkers and people who cared. They read a lot, and there were interesting people around the house, and that, to me, was such an exciting time. And when I look at the watch, it was symbolic to me of that era and this cool family. I mean, my girlfriend’s dad just gave me this gift that was the most important thing I had.

Q: How do you feel about selling the watch?
A: People wonder how I could let it go if it’s that personal, and I think, for me, it is because I knew Paul well enough to know that he didn’t hoard things. He would’ve wanted me to do something amazing with it. When people found out I had it, some tried to buy it from me, but I didn’t want to sell it privately then see it appear on the market shortly thereafter and not be in control of that.

If people knew how great it felt to give their money away, they wouldn’t wait until they’re dead to do it.

The responsibility of selling this is not just that of bringing it to the watch community and letting them share the excitement and see the watch, but also bringing the attention to Paul Newman. He was one of the coolest guys on the planet, but I feel like so many people have forgotten about him. A lot of people in their twenties don’t even know who Paul Newman is, yet in this world right now I think we really need a hero, and I think Paul represents what a hero is about. It’s about humility and walking with grace, and how the world rewarded him for that. Paul would say, “If people knew how great it felt to give their money away, they wouldn’t wait until they’re dead to do it.” I think anybody who wants to be cool and have cool shit should pay attention to how Paul rolled.

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The Best Watch Releases of November, 2020

While we can’t conceivably cover every great new watch release, we do our best to highlight some our favorites each week, and now, we’ve decided to collect them in a monthly roundup for your viewing pleasure. From Hodinkee’s field watch collaboration with Merci to Braun’s team-up with Paul Smith to Oak and Oscar’s new all-black take on the Olmstead, these are some of the best watches in November, 2020.

Merci LMM-H01 for Hodinkee

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One of our favorite French boutique watchmakers did a super sharp and well priced mechanical interpretation of its field watch for Hodinkee. It’s limited to 1,500 examples.

Price: $500

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Seiko Credor Eichi II

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Seiko’s haute horlogerie sub-brand Credor only seldom comes out with new watches. Now, the cult favorite Eichi II’s newest incarnation features a blue dial and platinum case.

Price: $54,000

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Christopher Ward C65 Sandstorm Chronometer for Worn & Wound

watch releases 11 19

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A British watchmaker and an American watch enthusiast website collaborated on an awesome, limited-edition tool watch.

Price: $1,085

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Braun Watch & Clocks for Paul Smith

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One of the most iconic Bauhaus-inspired watch designs is from Braun, and it’s even cooler for being ultra affordable. New, limited-edition versions for retailer Paul Smith are some of the best yet. (Also check out the $80 wall clock and $45 alarm clock.)

Price: $225

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TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Jack Heuer Birthday Gold Limited Edition

jack heuer interview

TAG Heuer

TAG Heuer is honoring the creator of the famous Carrera on his 88th birthday with an interpretation of his “favorite watch” in gold.

Price: $18,450

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Breitling Superocean ’57 Outerknown

breitling superocean outerknown

Breitling

Breitling partnered with one of our favorite makers of surf-centric gear and apparel, Outerknown, on a retro-inspired dive watch with an eco-friendly strap.

Price: $4,380

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Oak & Oskar Olmsted Matte

watch releases 11 19

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A new version of Chicago-based microbrand Oak & Oscar’s 38mm field watch, the Olmsted, has a matte-textured, ceramic-coated case.

Price: $1,475

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Ming 19.05

watch releases 11 19

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Enthusiast favorite watchmaker Ming has introduced the final model in its 19 series featuring a titanium case and a high-end movement. Only 15 examples will be made.

Price: ~$10,920

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Hublot Big Bang Unico Berluti Cold Brown

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Hublot

Hublot’s ongoing partnership with leather expert Berluti has yielded a new version of the Big Bang Unico watch that incorporates patinated Venezia leather in its dial and bezel — and also its strap, of course.

Price: $26,200

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Bremont Hawking Collection

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Bremont has released a collection of watches that incorporate small discs of wood taken from the late scientist Stephen Hawking’s desk.

Price: $9,995+

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Chopard Alpine Eagle Wempe

watch releases 11 19

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Chopard’s luxury sport watch, the Alpine Eagle, might look its best yet in this special version with a silver dial and blue hands/indices for retailer Wempe’s 5th Avenue boutique.

Price: $12,900

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Panerai Luminor LAB-ID PAM1700 Watch

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Panerai

Panerai’s newest dive watch is full of exotic materials such as carbon composite and the latest generation of improved luminescent paint, called Super-Luminova X-1. The watch also comes with a 70-year warranty.

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Montblanc Summit 2+ Smartwatch

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Montblanc

Montblanc’s newest smartwatch comes with upgrades like cellular connectivity, meaning independence from a companion phone.

Price: $1,170

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Timex x Face x Anna Limited Edition Watches

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Timex

Timex collaborated with a Japanese-Taiwanese artist named Face and the Japanese magazine Anna on a fun series of limited edition watches.

Price: $89

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Grand Seiko Elegance Watches

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Grand Seiko

Grand Seiko celebrates a couple anniversaries this year, and released some high-end models to celebrate each one: the rose gold SBGW260 marks 140 for the company, and the platinum SBGZ005 is for 160 years since the founder’s birth.

Price: $28,900+

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Marloe Atlantic Chronograph Watch

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Marlowe

Scottish watch brand Marloe released a new collection of chronographs powered by automatic Seiko movements.

Price: $1,100

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Patek Philippe Ref. 6301P Grande Sonnerie

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Patek Phillippe

Patek is really good at making really complicated and stunningly refined watches, especially those with calendar and chiming mechanisms. And they’ve done it again.

Price: On request

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Longines Legend Diver Bronze Watch

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Longines

Longines’ super compressor-style dive watch gets a bronze case and green dial. And it looks dope.

Price: $3,000

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Christopher Ward C65 Chronograph

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Christopher Ward

If you bought a Nivada chronograph in the 1960s, it might’ve looked something like this when it was brand-new. British watchmaker Christopher Ward’s new C65 Chronograph is vibrant, has a modern Swiss automatic movement and is perfectly sized at 41mm.

Price: $2,055

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Geckota Sierra Zero One Phalanx Watch

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Phalanx

This is a watch with a story. But it’s also got a mean look, some serious specs and a reasonable price.

Price: $906

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MVMT Minimal Sport Watch

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MVMT

Minimal in design, maximal on style.

Price: $145

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Farer Pilot Watches

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Radio

Traditional, no-nonsense pilot watches meet British brand Farer’s typically vibrant design sense.

Price: $895

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Rado True Square Designer Collection Watches

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Radio

Rado is doing some amazing things with ceramic, including producing watch cases in this tone of yellow. It’s just one of a new series made in collaboration with prominent designers.

Price: $1,800+

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Alpina Alpiner Regulator Automatic Watch

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Alpina

Regulator watches separate the displays of hours, minutes and seconds to emphasize the minutes. It makes for an interesting look when mixed with Alpina’s typically sporty personality.

Price: $2,173 (on bracelet)

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Zenith Defy Classic Carbon

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Radio

The contemporary side of the Zenith personality is manifested in a skeletonized watch with case and bracelet in lightweight carbon.

Price: $19,500

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Junghans Meister S Chronoscope

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Junghans

Famously minimalist German watchmaker Junghans is looking unusually sporty with a new automatic chronograph.

Price: $2,595+

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Save Up to 30% off Professional Rolex Models on eBay

It’s time to buy your dream adventure watch: a Rolex that fits in both the boardroom and the jungle. It can be difficult to know where to start, but thankfully eBay makes the process not only approachable, but affordable. The retailer has sales of up to 30 percent on Submariners, Milgausses and Explorers, each of which have adorned the wrists of the most prominent explorers this world has ever seen. And while you may never summit K2, it’s easy to find a Rolex that could with eBay’s Authenticity Guarantee. Need we say more?

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One of the Year’s Coolest Timex Watches Is Back in Stock

The Q Timex, Timex’s 1970s-inspired quartz diver, is now available in several different colors and styles. But if you were searching for something a bit more monochromatic — or something with more of a definitive (non-Rolex inspired) vintage inspiration — you should check out the new Todd Snyder X Timex Q Bracelet Watch.

If you’ve ever done a deep dive into the depths of eBay late one night, looking at vintage watches, you’ve no doubt come across similar-looking Timex models: baton hands, red-tipped seconds hand, stick markers, folded-link steel bracelet, etc. All of those features are present here and more: you get a domed acrylic crystal, a rotating, dive-style bezel, a reliable quartz movement with day-date display, a handsome black dial, lumed hands and a battery hatch for easy swapping. The watch is also sized perfectly at 38mm and is water-resistant to 50m.

It’s strange to see the old folded-link style employed on a modern bracelet (in place of solid links), and we have to say, we love it — there’s something immensely satisfying about the jangle and feeling of one of these bracelets once they’ve been truly worn in. For $179, there’s little to argue with here. Vintage aesthetics, modern tech, a great look — it’s all present in this new version of the Q.

Learn More: Here

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The 10 Best Vintage Watches Under $1,000, According to Experts

With demand for vintage timepieces steadily on the rise, it might be tempting go out and spend thousands on a classic Rolex Submariner or Omega Speedmaster. While they’re great timepieces, there’s something to be said about dipping your toes into vintage collecting with something a bit more … accessible.

Fortunately, the vintage marketplace is teeming with undervalued timepieces, from big names and forgotten brands alike. The problem is picking something from that expansive lot. Here, three vintage watch specialists — Eric Wind of Wind Vintage, Nick Pardo, previously of Analog/Shift and Hamilton Powell of Crown & Caliber — opine on the best timepieces that can be realistically acquired for less than a grand.

Vulcain Cricket


Both Wind and Powell recommend Vulcain Crickets. Pioneers of the mechanical alarm complication, they were relatively ubiquitous — multiple U.S. presidents even wore them. “They were extremely popular when they were introduced as people loved having an alarm they could carry with them. It was sort of the iPhone of its day in terms of demand and usefulness,” Wind says.

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Omega Seamaster


Wind, Pardo and Powell all agree that vintage three-hand Omegas — especially the early Seamasters — are incredibly undervalued and, as such, serve as gateways into vintage collecting. “They offer handsome, timeless designs, high-grade in-house movements and a recognizable name at an affordable price point,” says Pardo, while Wind notes that, “I have seen many of people that started with Seamasters quickly get the vintage watch bug.” All three note that they’re especially great as dress watches, with their charismatic designs and slim cases sliding easily under a shirt cuff. “They’re smart, sophisticated and very Don Draper-esque,” Powell says.

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Bulovas


Throughout the ’60s and ’70s, Bulova made loads of unique watches that are picking up steam within the collecting community because they can be acquired on the cheap. Pardo personally recommends the 666 Diver, which came in a smattering of different configurations. According to him, “this is a great line of dive watches from the 60s and early 70s that range in size from slim 35mm time-only models to larger Valjoux powered chronographs. And who doesn’t love the ‘Devil Diver’ nickname?” Wind’s personal preference is for the more obscure Spinnaker, emblematic of some of the brand’s bolder design directions: “Bulova has made a number of daring and interesting designs over the years … the Spinnaker is an automatic watch that came in some very funky colors and with a strap painted to match the dial. It’s a really cool and well-made watch,” he says.

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Seiko Sports Watches


Pardo recommended vintage Seiko sport watches for our other list of great vintage watches, but Pardo says, “I can’t not recommend Seiko at this price point.” He’s right, few watches back as much history, innovation and design at their low, low price. “They’re funky, colorful, diverse, have bulletproof movements and are horologically significant,” he says. Pardo specifically likes the 6139 “Pogue,” 6309 “Turtle,” 6138 “John Player Special” and “Bellmatic Alarm.” Though recommends buying through a trusted dealer rather than eBay, as the latter is rife with frankenwatches.

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US Military GI Watches


While many companies are making vintage reissues of old general issue military watches, Pardo says you can get the real deal — specifically old Hamilton and Benrus watches — for just a few hundred bucks. “They’re simple, clean, have legible dials, reliable ETA-based movements with hacking, and a history of being used by American servicemen for decades,” he says. “These hold a special place in my heart as one was my first vintage piece.” Pardo also notes that the Benrus 3061, a civilian variant made popular by Steve McQueen, who wore it in Bulitt, is harder to find but still realistically attainable for under $1,000.

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Tissots


Today, Tissot is known for making some solid-value mechanical watches, but the brand’s commitment to value for money extends to its vintage pieces, too. Models like the Seastar divers, dressy Angtimagnetique and even the Navigator chronograph can be found well under $1,000. However, Powell likes funkier, more colorful models from the brand’s past. “I love the colors on some of these old vintage Tissots — lots of blues and orange,” he says. “They’re totally undervalued in my opinion.”

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Zodiac Sea Wolf


Despite debuting alongside the Rolex Submariner and Blancpain Fifty-Fathoms in 1953, the Zodiac Sea-Wolf doesn’t get quite as much credit it deserves for being one of the earliest dedicated dive watches ever made. As such, they’re relative bargains on the vintage market, especially considering its horological pedigree. “It’s such a cool model,” says Pardo. “It has a slim 35mm case, great looks and is easy to obtain under $1,000.”

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Generic Skin Divers


Following the growing success of dedicated dive watches like the Zodiac, many watchmakers built “skin divers,” generic lightweight divers that were dressier and had shallower depth ratings. All of them looked remarkably similar. “Any number of who-knows brands made these funky dive watches with a chunky stainless steel straight lug 37mm contract case and usually an ETA movement,” Pardo says. “They’re lots of fun, and usually well under $1,000.”

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Mechanical Timexes


“Most people have come to connote Timex with a crappy quartz watch but there are some really cool old mechanical Timex watches out there,” Powell says. While Timex has been producing primarily quartz watches for the last few decades, it made tons of mechanical pieces during the ’50s, ’60s and ’70s, including the iconic Marlin dress watch (recently reissued) and the sportier Sprite. Given their ubiquity, most can be found easily for under $100 making them great gateways into vintage collecting.

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Time-Only Heuers


While they’re hard to find, Heuer did make some time-only watches — many of them automatic — back in the 1950s. Since they’re not as well known, they can be found relatively cheaply, Wind says. “Most people overlook them since they are focused on vintage Heuer chronographs, but I really think their time-only watches were beautiful,” he says.

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A Word to the Wise Before Posting Your Watch Pictures Online

Welcome to Further Details, a recurring column where we investigate what purpose an oft-overlooked product element actually serves. This week: why people hide their watches’ serial numbers.

Every 2020 No-Date Rolex Submariner in Oystersteel will have the same reference number: 124060. Only the one on my wrist right now (if I were so lucky), however, has the serial number [REDACTED].

Wait, seriously? Why does that have to be redacted?

Many have wondered why you so often see pre-owned watch pictures online (if that’s how you spend your time) that hide the serial numbers. There must be a good reason, one would assume, but it’s not quite obvious what that is. Is this something you need to be careful about? Here’s what you need to know.

What Are Watch Serial Numbers Used For?

There’s usually the chance to register a watch when you buy it, and when you do so it’s identified by its unique serial number. This records information that can later be used to confirm authenticity, ownership and other details that may be useful in repairing or reselling it. (Here’s how to find your watch’s serial number.)

When buying a vintage watch, checking the serial number is part of your due diligence and can help you make sure everything else about the watch looks legit. You can also make sure a pre-owned watch hasn’t been reported stolen by checking on thewatchregister.com and mystolenwatch.com.

Why Hiding a Serial Number Is Considered a Best Practice

Perhaps many people hide serial numbers in their pictures online because they see others doing so and feel it’s better to be safe — even if they don’t know exactly why. By hiding the serial number, the actual owner of a watch is mostly avoiding potential inconvenience rather than material harm.

A scammer or counterfeiter can use a valid serial number to sell illegitimate products. For example, a scammer might use someone else’s pictures in selling a watch he doesn’t own, and a valid serial number would help it look more legit.

When that watch is then never delivered and reported stolen (on police reports, company documentation, insurance claims, as well as on community forums), the owner might find out later that he has to prove legitimate ownership — it might even be confiscated when he sends it in for servicing. This is a mere inconvenience if you have the papers to prove ownership, but if not it could be a bigger hassle. This is primarily a concern with higher-end watches.

So Hide Them!

While keeping your serial number private is mostly about averting potential inconveniences, it avoids aiding fraudsters and should be considered a “best practice.”

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