All posts in “Watches”

5 Watches Taking Quartz Movements to the Next Level

Too often, quartz is disregarded as a cheap, passionless way to tell time. While mechanical watches are put on a pedestal as complicated high art (and to be fair, in many cases they are), quartz is labeled timekeeping’s easy answer. You can see how the perception takes root. High-end mechanical movements come from clean, brightly lit manufactures in the verdant Switzerland countryside; quartz-powered watches can be found for $50 at your local Big Lots.

But quartz watches shouldn’t be looked down upon. Many of our favorite affordable watches are made by well-regarded brands using great quartz movements. Even the high-end price range is home to some incredible quartz watches — spend four figures or more and you can have a watch that is not only more accurate than a similarly priced mechanical watch, but also comes with new features, and in impressive shapes. To put it bluntly, when watchmakers push the boundaries on what quartz movements can do, the result is some of the most technologically advanced timepieces you can buy. These five watches prove it.

Max Bill Mega

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Some of Junghans’ Max Bill-designed watches quietly sport some of the coolest quartz-powered technology around: radio-controlled quartz. These otherwise understated Bauhaus watches feature a special movement that constantly checks itself against radio time signals the world over to maintain an accuracy of +/- 8 seconds a year. What’s more, they’re solar-powered, meaning they sport a power reserve of up to three years, and the date will remain accurate until the year 2400. Not bad for a dainty little dress watch, eh?

Price: ~$974+

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Grand Seiko SBGN009

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Who said quartz can’t be beautiful as well as accurate? This GMT from Grand Seiko boasts all the high-end finishing and design typically associated only with mechanical watches, but matches it to the brand’s high-end quartz movement, the 9F. (The particular version of the movement used here, the 9F86, includes a GMT complication and date display.) Boasting a perfectly sized 40mm case with a gorgeous, dark blue dial and a pop of yellow in the hands and indices, the SBGN009 is accurate to +/- 10 seconds per year.

Price: $3,000

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Citizen Caliber 0100

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Upon its release in 2019, the Caliber 0100 became the world’ most accurate light-powered watch, with a stated accuracy of +/- one second per year. What’s more, the movement is completely autonomous, meaning it doesn’t sync to any sort of external signal, whether radio-controlled or otherwise. Though this tech doesn’t come cheap — the watch starts at $7,400 — it’s certainly unique: The quartz crystal within is shaped in something called an “AT cut,” giving it more stability and resistance to temperature and position changes, as well as an ultra-high frequency of 32kH.

Price: $7,400+

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G-SHOCK MRG-B2000SH Shougeki-Maru Rising Dragon Limited Edition

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Do we even have to say anything? Look at this f*cking thing. This is the watch Frodo probably wore on that trek to Mordor. It takes inspiration from the design of Japanese samurai helmets, called kabuto, and features a forged titanium bezel with unique color treatment achieved through the use of a sand die, brushes and a misting tool. The watch itself features all the best quartz-powered G-Shock goodies: access to 39 time zones, Tough Solar charging, 18 months of battery life and 200m of water resistance. In short: If this thing doesn’t turn heads, no quartz watch will.

Price: $8,000

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Breitling Emergency

high end quartz

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If you’re not familiar with the Emergency, allow us to blow your mind: This fully badass, quartz-powered watch will tell the time, sure, but it also features a dual-frequency emergency distress beacon that, when pulled, will alert a rescue team to your location. Powered by the Breitling cal. 76, a COSC-certified SuperQuartz chronograph movement, the Emergency is available in plain or DLC-coated titanium and features a rechargeable battery. Just don’t activate the beacon if you’re not, you know, about to die: in addition to the watch’s $16,475 base price, you’ll pay a hefty fine.

Price: $16,475+

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The 10 Best Watches Under $5,000

Setting your sights on a nice watch can land you in pricey, and sometimes confusing, waters. As price tags head north, value becomes that much harder to pin down. $5,000 is a common benchmark for buying a top-notch watch, one that you’ll wear for a lifetime and pass on to future generations. Unfortunately, this is the high-volume realm of entry-to-mid-level luxury watches, and it’s tricky to navigate.

Any watch you buy at this price should have a few key features that set it apart from the sub-$1,000 category. The biggest question mark, besides an overall look and style that suits you, is the movement: this is mechanical watch territory, so you’ll first want to decide if you want an automatic or hand­-winding movement. The higher the quality of the movement, the fewer the complications you’ll get for your $5,000. It’s a trade-off between complexity and in­-house prestige. Of course, the brand name on the dial will have something to do with it as well.

There’s a good mix of brands present in this category, from well-known names like Omega to smaller companies like Nomos. Unless you want show off the badge, you may find more value in some of the smaller guys. We’re here to help. These are our 10 favorite watches for under $5,000.

Tutima M2 Coastline Chronograph

best watches under 5,000

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The Tutima M2 chronograph is a compelling watch with a military history and unique look. It’s also a beast on the wrist, however, and the Coastline collection was introduced to offer a similar experience but slimmed down to 43mm. Though 43mm still isn’t dainty, a lightweight titanium case will significantly improve its wearability, and matched to an integrated titanium bracelet it’ll be ready for just about anything.

Movement: Valjoux 7750 automatic
Diameter: 43mm
Price: $3,600

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Massena Lab Uni-Racer

best watches under 5,000

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The brand Massena Lab often collaborates with other watchmakers, but the first watch of its own is the Uni-Racer. It’s based on a somewhat rare vintage watch, the Universal Geneve Uni-Compax, but updated in size to 39mm for modern tastes. Of course, it’s also got a modern movement, the manually wound Sellita SW510. It’s a pretty good alternative to the vintage original and costs a hell of a lot less too.

Movement: Sellita SW510 hand-wound
Diameter: 39mm
Price: $3,495

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Tudor Heritage Black Bay GMT

best watches under 5,000

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With in-house movements, top notch quality and a Rolex connection, Tudor watches offer phenomenal value for under $5,000. It’s no wonder they’re as popular as they are, and their success is led by the Black Bay line. And the collection just seems to grow and get better with the likes of bronze versions or the Black Bay Fifty Eight with its reduced size. One of the best reimagines the dive watch line as a GMT with the familiar “Pepsi” style, 24-hour bezel colored red and blue to indicate day and nighttime hours. It’s easily one of the most compelling watches for the money.

Movement: Tudor MT5652 COSC automatic
Diameter: 41mm
Price: $4,050

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Frederique Constant Manufacture Worldtimer

best watches under 5,000

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It’s truly rare to find a true world timer at such an accessible figure; but then, Frederique Constant seems to have a habit of doing these things. You would expect that their Manufacture Worldtimer would be powered by a decorated ebauche from some off-the-shelf supplier. Nope. The 26-jewel FC-718 is an in-house creation. Everything is controlled by the pumpkin crown, with the inner ring rotating to denote just which timezone you want to be tracking. The hours between 18:00 and 6:00 on the inner ring have received a dark blue treatment to denote nightfall and make at-a-glance time checks a cinch. A world map decorates much of the dial, save for the large date indicator at the 6 o’clock position.

Movement: Frederique Constant FC-718 automatic
Diameter: 42mm
Price: $4,195

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Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57

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The Superocean offers the sporty Breitling dive watch attitude with a little dash of throwback charm. With a 42mm case and Breitling’s excellent build and detailing, it comes in a few variations and is powered by the reliable ETA 2892 automatic movement. The brand took inspiration from an vintage model from 1957 and wanted to conceived of the watch as stylistically ideal for surfers with 100m of water resistance.

Movement: ETA 2892-A2 automatic
Diameter: 42mm
Price: $4,380

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IWC Pilot’s Watch Spitfire

best watches under 5,000

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The Pilot’s Watch series by IWC Schaffhausen is one of the most iconic timepiece lines in horology. Gracing the wrists of discerning flyboys since 1936, the range is characterized by its impeccable legibility and dedication to accuracy in extreme conditions. The Spitfire continues this tradition with a robust, new in-house automatic calibre inside its antimagnetic, soft-iron inner case. With a 39mm diameter it sits in the sweet spot, midway between IWC’s Pilots Watch 36 (36mm) and their Big Pilot (44mm).

Movement: IWC 32110 automatic
Diameter: 39mm
Price: $4,450

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Cartier Clé

best watches under 5,000

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The Cartier Clé is slightly overlooked but a compelling watch for those drawn to the brand’s classic style. Clé, which means “key” in French, refers to the non-round crown that’s meant to evoke the type of keys used to set and wind old clocks. Its got a somewhat turtle-like case shape but is excellently proportioned and well sized for a dress watch at 40mm. Inside, it’s powered by the brand’s own in-house automatic movement.

Movement: Cartier 1847 MC automatic
Diameter: 40mm
Price: $4,700

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Nomos Ahoi Datum

best watches under 5,000

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Nomos makes serious watches with award-winning design at a value. Their Ahoi Datum features an in­-house manufactured movement paired with a simple, Bauhaus-inspired aesthetic. The funky font and splash of color subtly adds personality, while the crown guards and 200m of water resistance promise durability. Nomos watches are made in Germany, in the historic town of Glashütte, and you can feel the level of attention that went into each detail.

Movement: Nomos DUW 5101 automatic
Diameter: 40.3mm
Price: $4,780

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Omega Seamaster Diver 300m

best watches under 5,000

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Omega‘s Seamaster Diver 300m has long been associated with James Bond, who likes to wear it with a tuxedo. If you can pull off that look, good for you — but the point stands that it’s pretty versatile as well as having a unique look among dive watches. The newest versions are refined and better looking than ever with a ceramic dial and bezel, and they include the latest technology with Omega’s excellent 8800 automatic movement.

Movement: Omega Co-Axial 8800 automatic
Diameter: 42mm
Price: $4,900

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Grand Seiko Heritage SBGA401

best watches under 5,000

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The Grand Seiko SBGA401 is easily the engineering marvel of this selection of watches. Powered by a self-winding Spring Drive movement, this Grand Seiko features a 72-hour power reserve and is accurate within 1 second per day. This combination of quartz accuracy and mechanical beauty is owed to Seiko’s ethereal, electro-mechanical Caliber 9R65 movement. The intricacies of the Spring Drive’s inner workings are a rabbit hole of horological geekery; it essentially combines elements of both traditional mechanical movements and quartz accuracy. It also offers a genuinely smooth sweep of its seconds hand.

Movement: Seiko Spring Drive 9R65 automatic
Diameter: 41mm
Price: $4,900

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Here’s Your Chance to Win an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

In celebration of the end of 2020, and in the countdown to 2021, eBay is giving away ten watches over ten days. It’s a giveaway series that you don’t want to miss, and one that can cap your year with a once-in-a-lifetime timepiece. Today, eBay is giving away an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. Visit eBay’s Instagram post below to find out how to enter.

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Terms and conditions apply. To view the terms of the giveaway, click here.

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Here’s Your Chance to Win a Rolex Daytona “Panda”

In celebration of the end of 2020, and in the countdown to 2021, eBay is giving away ten watches over ten days. It’s a giveaway series that you don’t want to miss, and one that can cap your year with a once-in-a-lifetime timepiece. Today, eBay is giving away a Rolex Daytona “Panda”. Visit eBay’s Instagram post below to find out how to enter.

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Terms and conditions apply. To view the terms of the giveaway, click here.

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Here’s Your Chance to Win a Rolex Submariner “Hulk”

In celebration of the end of 2020, and in the countdown to 2021, eBay is giving away ten watches over ten days. It’s a giveaway series that you don’t want to miss, and one that can cap your year with a once-in-a-lifetime timepiece. Today, eBay is giving away a Rolex Submariner “Hulk”. Visit eBay’s Instagram post below to find out how to enter.

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Terms and conditions apply. To view the terms of the giveaway, click here.

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Here’s Your Chance to Win a Rolex GMT-Master II “Pepsi”

In celebration of the end of 2020, and in the countdown to 2021, eBay is giving away ten watches over ten days. It’s a giveaway series that you don’t want to miss, and one that can cap your year with a once-in-a-lifetime timepiece. Today, eBay is giving away a

Rolex GMT-Master II “Pepsi”. Visit eBay’s Instagram post below to find out how to enter.

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Terms and conditions apply. To view the terms of the giveaway, click here.

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This Is the Watch to Wear to Take Your Mind Off Watches

So Labs Layer 1, $175

Key Specs:

Case Diameter: 38mm
Case Depth: 11mm
Water Resistance: 30m
Movement: Miyota quartz
Price: $175

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Sometimes (read: every. damn. day.) I think we might take this whole “watch” thing way too seriously. We scream at one another in online forums about movement provenance, case diameter and other design nuances. We criticize one another’s choices. Why? Watches are no longer a necessity in our lives, so shouldn’t they be fun?

So in the spirit of fun, we bring you the So Labs Layer 1. Inexpensive, quartz-powered, colorful, and different, it’s perhaps not typical GP fare — and that’s exactly what attracted me to it. It could be a watch for the design-obsessed; it could be a watch for kids; it could be a watch for those simply seeking a fun weekender, a respite from the seriousness and worry of watches that cost much too much for what they are. Without further ado, let’s get into it.

Notable

We tend to think of quartz watches as a) cheap, fashion brand junk or b) over-built stuff for the military or professionals. (Ok, maybe we don’t all think this way, but consider the dichotomy for a moment and you may find that it rings true.) The Layer 1 fits into neither category: it’s relatively inexpensive, to be sure, but only compared to its mechanical cousins — it’s certainly not so cheap that you’d be hesitant to purchase it for fear that it’s garbage. And it’s incredibly thoughtfully considered, from the case to the dial the diameter and strap. That’s something worth taking notice of, especially when you’re looking for a gift for someone.

Who It’s For

Ok, the Layer 1 may not be appropriate for the Wall Street set — fair. But walk into most modern offices with one on your wrist and you’re sure to pique someone’s interest. I could see anyone with slightly adventurous tastes loving the Layer 1. Given it’s size (38mm), it’s a perfect unisex watch, and it would also work well for kids and teens (especially given its colorful appearance). Given its price, it could function well as a gift for anyone interested in art, design or fashion.

so labs model 1 inline

So Labs

Alternatives

The alternatives to something like the Layer 1 are precisely the type of things you’d find in a design or museum shop. To wit: the Redundant Watch ($190) from the MoMA Store, based on a 1990s clock design by Ji Lee, is exactly the type of thing someone in the market for a “fun” watch would appreciate. Virtually anything from British watchmaker Mr Jones is also a good pick, but especially so their Colour Venn ($325), which uses colored discs to display the time. Perhaps the coolest alternative to something like the Layer 1 is Paul Smith’s collaboration with Braun ($225) — a subtle twist of the brand’s classic quartz watches. However, it’s sold out at the moment, so you’ll have to wait ’til it returns.

And it goes without saying that virtually anything from Swatch is also a worthy alternative, both in styling and in price. It’s hard to pin down a specific model given the Swiss juggernaut’s vast catalog, but the entire point of the brand was to make fun, affordable quartz watches from all.

Review

The Layer 1 is the brainchild of designer Rick Cosgrove and his business partner Andrew Perez, whom you might know as the principal at Astor & Banks. It comes in five colorways, each of which consists of five Pantone colors but otherwise uses the same dial design. The case itself is 38mm and made from transparent acrylic, allowing the wearer to glimpse all the dial layers sandwiched one atop the other. (The case back, however, is steel and engraved with an individual number, so there’s no peaking at the quartz movement beneath. Perhaps this would’ve been a cooler approach, but here, at least, you get your individual serial number.)

A signed, push-pull crown offers only 30m of water-resistance, but we don’t expect anyone will mistake the Layer 1 for a dive watch anytime soon and plunge headlong into a lake. Each case is paired with a comfortable suede strap with quick-release pins and brushed steel hardware — a premium appointment on a watch at this price point, to be sure.

so labs layer 1 inline 1

So Labs

The dial, however, is where most of the action is on the Layer 1. Eschewing the use of traditional watch hands, each consists of several parts: a flat sapphire crystal, a seconds disc, a minute disc, an hour disc, and a die-cut dial. Together, these layered parts form the time-telling apparatus that is visible as a watch dial. The Pantone colors, in turn, contrast from and compliment each other well, making for bright dials that beg for closer examination. (Indeed, the Layer 1 is perhaps not the watch to wear if you’re trying to fly under the radar.)

Though it’s by no means the first watch to replace hands with revolving discs, the Layer 1 is surely amongst the most playful and least expensive. I wouldn’t spring for one if you needed the most easily scannable watch dial possible — indeed, the seconds indicator is easy to miss, seeing as it’s simply a tiny dot on the innermost dial ring. However, these aren’t meant to accompany you while you execute a coordinated, platoon-sized attack on a machine gun nest. They’re meant to be fun.

On-wrist, the Layer 1 sort of literally disappears into your body, given its transparent case. Given its dimensions (38mm x 11mm), it’s incredibly comfortable, especially with its leather strap. Slipping easily under a cuff (thought you’d doubtless be wearing one with a t-shirt), it’s a watch so light and well-sized that you sort of forget that you’re wearing it. (Needless to say, others will likely remind you — this is the type of watch that elicits comments and compliments wherever you go.)

The watch’s packaging, though perhaps not the eco-friendliest, is also interesting and different from that of many watches: Within a cardboard box with a foam insert is a large plastic disc — sort of like an oversized petrie dish — transparent and with a transparent top. The watch head sits within the center of this disc within another foam insert, and the strap, separated into its top and bottom halves, has its own cutouts beneath the watch head. A label on the outside of the “dish” gives the watch’s specs and individual number. It’s a cool design and easily wrappable if you’re giving the Layer 1 as a gift, so extra points there.

so labs layer one inline 3

So Labs

Verdict

The Layer 1 is just plain cool. It’s not stuffy, it’s not geared at anyone in particular — it just wants to be worn and enjoyed. Affordable enough to be gifted but well-built enough to be worn regularly, it helps round out a market that tends to focus disproportionately on overly serious designs for people who probably don’t wear their watches in overly serious ways. If you’re looking for a plain ol’ fun watch, definitely give the Layer 1 a try.

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Here’s Your Chance to Win a Cartier Tank

In celebration of the end of 2020, and in the countdown to 2021, eBay is giving away ten watches over ten days. It’s a giveaway series that you don’t want to miss, and one that can cap your year with a once-in-a-lifetime timepiece. Today, eBay is giving away a Cartier Tank. Visit eBay’s Instagram post below to find out how to enter.

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Terms and conditions apply. To view the terms of the giveaway, click here.

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The Most Affordable Watches of 2020

This story is part of our end-of-year series This Year in Gear rounding up the most notable releases of 2020. For more stories like this, click here.

2020 wasn’t, perhaps, the optimal year in which to purchase your dream watch. Hell, if you survived 2020 with your health and insanity intact, then you’ve already come out on top.

But maybe you actually have need of a new watch, or you’d like to gift one to somebody, or you’d like to gift one to yourself for surviving 2020. Thankfully, this year produced plenty of cool watches that are eminently affordable. So, without further ado, here are a few of our favorites.

Q Timex Marmont 1975 Reissue

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The new Marmont brings a chic, gold-colored aesthetic to the popular Q Timex line, changing an inexpensive quartz tool watch into a more refined, 70s-inspired piece that’s perfect for a night out. (Should those ever return.)

Price: $169.00

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Swatch Sistem51 Hodinkee Generation 1990

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For the fifth time, watch website and retailer Hodinkee has partnered with Swatch on a fun, colorful creation that’s both affordable and watch-snob-friendly. With the celebrated Sistem51 model as its base, Hodinkee has taken inspiration from a Swatch model from 1990 and given it a fresh redesign.

Price: $170

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Huckberry X Timex “Cola” Sport Watch Limited Edition

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A fun spin on the Q Timex line, the Cola watch is a limited edition produced in partnership with Huckberry. With its vintage-inspired lume, black and red dive bezel and integrated bracelet, it’s the perfect first watch for someone new to the collecting hobby.

Price: $189

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Dan Henry Dragster Chrono

this year in gear best affordable watches

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While you might not be able to afford a $40,000 vintage chronograph from Universal Genève, you can certainly capture the look affordably enough: The Dragster Chrono from Dan Henry approximates the design in a lovingly faithful way.

Price: $200

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Seiko 5 Sports (Fixed Bezel)

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Initially launched with a dive-watch-style design and a ton of color variations, the Seiko 5 Sports line has now expanded even further with versions that forgo the rotating bezel in favor of a more traditional (and perhaps more versatile) look.

Price: $275

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Paulin Neo

this year in gear best affordable watches

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Produced in collaboration with none other than anOrdain, the Neo is striking, funky, and just plain fun. Housed in a 38mm steel case with drilled lugs and powered by the Seiko NH35A automatic movement with date, it features a gorgeous anodized aluminum dial, manufactured in Scotland and hand-dyed in Glasgow.

Price: ~$528

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Orient M-Force AC0L

this year in gear best affordable watches

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Automatic and outfitted with a shock-resistant outer shroud, the M-Force revives an Orient favorite. Its oversized 45mm case may not be for everyone, but for those with the wrist to pull it off, it’s a force to be reckoned with.

Price: $565.00

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Here’s Your Chance to Win an IWC Pilot Chronograph

In celebration of the end of 2020, and in the countdown to 2021, eBay is giving away ten watches over ten days. It’s a giveaway series that you don’t want to miss, and one that can cap your year with a once-in-a-lifetime timepiece. Today, eBay is giving away an IWC Pilot Chronograph. Visit eBay’s Instagram post below to find out how to enter.

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Terms and conditions apply. To view the terms of the giveaway, click here.

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This content is created and maintained by a third party, and imported onto this page to help users provide their email addresses. You may be able to find more information about this and similar content at piano.io

Here’s Your Chance to Win an Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch

In celebration of the end of 2020, and in the countdown to 2021, eBay is giving away ten watches over ten days. It’s a giveaway series that you don’t want to miss, and one that can cap your year with a once-in-a-lifetime timepiece. Today, eBay is giving away an Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. Visit eBay’s Instagram post below to find out how to enter.

LEARN MORE

Terms and conditions apply. To view the terms of the giveaway, click here.

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This content is created and maintained by a third party, and imported onto this page to help users provide their email addresses. You may be able to find more information about this and similar content at piano.io

The Bucket List Watches of 2020

This story is part of our end-of-year series This Year in Gear rounding up the most notable releases of 2020. For more stories like this, click here.

Whooohooo! 2020 is donezo!

But what if it weren’t? (Cue Twilight Zone theme music.) What if 2020 was the last year ever…and we had to choose our bucket list watches. And we had unlimited cash. What would we go for?

Thankfully, besides being a no-good, rotten, all-around shitty year, 2020 was at the very least filled with some awesome watches from brands large and small. Some of these were announced previous to 2020 and had much anticipation building around their release. Others came seemingly out of the blue. All were dank.

So here, then, are our Bucket List Watches of 2020. Celebrate the death of 2020 and the coming of 2021 with a new timepiece, or merely gaze upon them in wonder. It doesn’t matter! Have some fun, damnit.

Panerai Radiomir Venti 45MM

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In celebration of the 20th anniversary of the Paneristi website, the Italian-founded, Swiss-run company released a special limited edition Radiomir in a 45mm stainless steel case. Dubbed the Radiomir Venti (PAM2020), it features the Paneristi insignia on its dial and case back.

Price: $6,500

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Nomos Lamda 960.S1

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The Lambda, which has always been an outlier in the Nomos catalog due to its precious metal case and $20,000+ price, just got a steel makeover. Available in white, black and blue dial variants, the new, limited-edition — which celebrates 175 years of watchmaking in Glashütte, Germany — is one handsome watch.

Price: $7,500

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Frederique Constant Highlife Perpetual Calendar Red Bar Edition

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Frederique Constant teamed up with the watch enthusiast group RedBar to create special edition versions of its new Highlife watches. A perpetual calendar model and a time-only automatic model are available, each of which features special touches and highlights and is limited to 10 and 100 examples, respectively. (We say go for the QP.)

Price: $9,295

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Ming 19.05

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Enthusiast favorite watchmaker Ming has introduced the final model in its 19 series. Featuring a titanium case, a sapphire crystal and a high-end movement with a hand-anglaged micro-rotor (trust us — it’s fancy), it’s a pretty special thing. Only 15 examples will be made.

Price: ~$10,920

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Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Day Date Desert Edition

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A stunningly beautiful new entry in the Bathyscaphe line, the Day Date Desert Edition features a dial inspired by the Nevada Desert. A limited edition of 500 pieces, it’s powered by the Blancpain 1315DD automatic movement and ships on a sand-colored, sail canvas strap.

Price: $12,700

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Zenith Defy El Primero Black and White

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The modern look of Zenith’s Defy collection isn’t merely stylistic, but also represents the truly innovative movement technology inside. New versions of the Defy 21 chronograph and Defy Classic are among the most striking yet, with ceramic cases and bezels in a contrasty black-and-white colorway that wouldn’t look out of place on a Star Wars stormtrooper.

Price: $13,600

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Omega Speedmaster 321 Stainless Steel

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The new caliber 321, which replicates a movement that’s been out of production for 50 years down to its tiniest detail, now powers a thoroughly modern Speedmaster. And though the watch is based on a reference that preceded Omega’s iconic Moonwatch, it satisfies those ardent fans who have long been waiting for an authentic modern Speedy.

Price: $14,100

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Memovox Timer

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Cell phones make for convenient alarm clocks, but if you’re tech-fatigued, why not substitute yours for a more classically inspired one: the new Jeager-LeCoultre Master Control Memovox Timer. It updates the famed Swiss maison’s mechanical alarm watch with a new function — namely, the ability to set a countdown timer by selecting the number of hours until the alarm rings.

Price: $15,600

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Cartier Privé Tank Asymétrique

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Reviving an unusual model that debuted in 1936 (and has since seen several updates), the Tank Asymétrique turns the watch’s formal rectangle into a rhomboid and rotates the dial elements by 30 degrees — resulting in a natural reading angle for the wearer. With Arabic numerals executed in a playful font, the Asymétrique has a unique appeal unlike that of any other dress watch.

Price: $26,400–$30,100

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Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6007A

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The 6007A-001, which celebrates the opening of the maison’s new building in Plan-les-Ouates, features a gorgeous new blue dial with outer minute and inner hour tracks and applied white Arabic indices, plus a smaller concentric railway track with triangular hour markers. A distinctly modern take on a classic dress watch.

Price: $28,351

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A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Thin Honeygold “Homage to F. A. Lange”

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No one does simple elegance quite like Lange. The new 1815 Thin Honeygold, with a white enamel dial and 38mm solid honey gold case, is stunning to behold, with an exquisite hand-wound movement visible through a display case back.

Price: $34,400

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Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 7234G

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The new Patek Philippe Travel Time Ref.7234G, a sporty Calatrava Pilot with roots going back to the 1930s, is highly pragmatic but refined to the nth degree. It has familiar features but also feels even more practical than ever in a smaller, 37.5mm size.

Price: $48,500

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Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept

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Piaget announced the Altiplano Ultimate Concept back in 2018 as the thinnest mechanical watch in the world, but at the time, it was just that — a concept. Now the AUC is available as a full production model in over 10,000 possible permutations; buyers can customize the watch’s dial, handset, bridge and more.

Price: Upon request

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    Here’s Your Chance to Win a Breitling Navitimer

    In celebration of the end of 2020, and in the countdown to 2021, eBay is giving away ten watches over ten days. It’s a giveaway series that you don’t want to miss, and one that can cap your year with a once-in-a-lifetime timepiece. Today, eBay is giving away a Breitling Navitimer. Visit eBay’s Instagram post below to find out how to enter.

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    Terms and conditions apply. To view the terms of the giveaway, click here.

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    This Is the GMT Watch We’ve All Been Waiting For

    The GMT, that most romantic of complications, how we love thee so. Deceptively simple yet oh-so-useful, the GMT — which displays the time in two or more time zones — has been intriguing travelers since Rolex debuted its GMT Master way back in 1954. Rolex’s models have always been the gold standard for GMT watches, and for many years, there weren’t very many affordable options in the space for those who wanted a mechanical travel watch, but didn’t want to spend thousands.

    Not so anymore, however. Since the dawn of the “microbrand” revolution, seemingly every small horological concern the world over has gotten into the GMT game. Many of these — most? — are also incredibly affordable. What a difference a few years makes in the watch world!

    Baltic, a French brand that’s been churning out beautiful, vintage-inspired watches since early 2017, has finally debuted its own take on the GMT, which it’s calling the Aquascaphe GMT. Based upon its Aquascaphe dive watch platform, it’s a 39mm, retro travel watch inspired in no small part by Rolex, but that certainly stands on its own. And given its design, its price, and its synthesis of vintage and modern elements, it may be the best GMT watch of 2020.

    Key Specs:
    Case Diameter: 39mm
    Case Thickness: 12mm
    Water Resistance: 100m
    Movement: Soprod C125 GMT
    Price: ~$1,105-$1,200

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    Notable

    Baltic already created a great platform to house its GMT in the form of the Aquascaphe — there was no need to reinvent the wheel. And this wheel is a damn good one: it’s 39mm wide, just 12mm tall, it has a beautiful dial, three different bezel options, and it’s well-priced. It also ships (optionally) on one of the most comfortable beads-of-rice bracelets available right now. The best part, however, is the price: You can get into an Aquascaphe GMT, with the bracelet, for $1,200.

    Who It’s For

    For those who have been looking for an affordable, mechanical GMT (automatic, to be specific) and want some vintage styling to go with it, the Aquascaphe GMT is your watch. Water-resistant to 100m, it’s perfect for those on the move or those who want to vacation with a travel watch, but not necessarily worry about a $10K Rolex on their wrists. While not a dive-specific watch (the GMT has a 24-hour bezel, rather than a dive bezel), you could easily take it in the pool or the ocean without worry.

    aquascaphe gmt

    Vincent Lions

    aquascaphe gmt

    Vincent Lions

    Alternatives

    Like we said, you’re sort of spoiled for choice right now, which is a great problem to have. You could go for the Atlas ($1,950) from American boutique brand Monta, though this watch is nearly $1,000 more expensive than the Aquascaphe and doesn’t use a rotating bezel. (The brand’s Skyquest does, however, at $2,190.) Then there’s the Crooms from British brand Farer at $1,485 — this has a feature set roughly on par with that of the Aquascaphe GMT for similar money, thought the stock bracelet is a Milanese. Finally, for $1,499, there’s the Superman Heritage GMT from French brand Yema, available in several colorways.

    Review

    There are going to be folks out there who see an image of this watch and are immediately turned off by its vintage Rolex/Tudor cues. And I get that. (Just wait ’til you see its outer and inner boxes.) However, if you’re willing to keep an open mind and consider 1) the artificial scarcity of new Rolex sports models 2) the price of both vintage and new Rolex models 3) that not everyone who enjoys the Rolex aesthetic can necessarily afford it (indeed, most cannot at 5-figure prices), then you can better appreciate the void in the market being filled by watches such as the Aquascaphe GMT.

    But let us put the “It looks too much like XYZ” argument aside for a moment and focus on the watch itself: It’s sized at 39mm wide by 12mm tall (including the slightly domed sapphire crystal), and is powered by the Soprod C125 GMT movement. For those unfamiliar, this is a Swiss-made movement with a 42-hour power reserve and an independently adjustable GMT hand. What does this mean, effectively? In short, it means the watch is (slightly) better for those keeping track of someone in a second time zone, rather than someone who is actually traveling, but effectively, it works just as well for either type of person.

    aquascaphe gmt

    Baltic

    So what’s the general design scheme going on here? Well, as I intimated, it’s Rolex family-inspired: You’ve got a glossy black dial with ’90s Tudor-looking circle and triangle lume plots; an outer “gilt” minute track; sword hands and arrow-tipped GMT hands; sparse branding; and a date window (though this has a matching black background and it situated at 6 o’clock, rather than 3 o’clock). Honestly, it’s a great-looking dial, clean and well-done. c1 Super-Luminova ensures night-time legibility and a double-domed, anti-reflective sapphire crystal offers modern robustness paired with a vintage profile. The GMT hand and “Aquascaphe” text is also matched to one color of the bezel in each colorway — a thoughtful touch.

    Speaking of the bezels, the Rolex police are going to show up again: there are three colorways — green and blue; grey and blue; and orange and blue — each of which does indeed give off Crownish vibes with its midcentury watch typeface. However, these bezels are sapphire, offering a Bakelite look without the actual brittleness of old plastic, and they’re bi-directional and 24-click. (If you’re a real watch nerd, you may also notice that the “4” is not a flat-font as it appears on many midcentury watches, but rather, a more conventional, curved 4.)

    aquascaphe gmt

    Vincent Lions

    A couple things worth mentioning regarding the Aquascaphe’s design that are rarely worth going into greater detail over: the case back and the bracelet. The former is sold stainless steel and features a cool world map graphic with different time zones detailed around the outer edge, giving the wearer an at-a-glance reference of all 24 zones. (It’s cool enough to warrant removing the watch once in a while and studying them.) The latter is, quite simply, one of the comfiest beads-of-rice bracelets available on a modern tool watch anywhere, complete with a fold-over clasp, micro-adjust, and quick-release, 20mm spring bars. It’s absolutely worth the extra $95 or so over the Tropic-esque rubber strap option, though this is a very good rubber strap in and of itself.

    The rest of the watch case isn’t terribly exciting. It’s well-proportioned, thankfully (actually, it may be perfectly proportioned for a sport GMT watch), but there’s only one surface treatment: brushed. One of my few asks for a more refined design would have been the addition of a polished bevel or something of the like — something to make for a more dynamic design. However, I am but a humble editor, and can’t honestly speak to the costs associated with adding a potential complicated step to the manufacturing process and what this would do to the watch’s MSRP, so I’m prepared to shut my mouth about it.

    Quite simply, the Aquascaphe GMT wears beautifully. It’s comfortable, fits well beneath a cuff, and the bracelet is great. What’s my biggest gripe? Truthfully, the movement — at least on my review watch. This may be user error (though I tend to doubt it, after 10,000 watch reviews), but screwing down the crown was an arduous task: unless it catches in a very specific way, I would begin to thread it downward, and it would continue advancing the GMT hand. I’d have to continue attempting to screw the crown down (and frustratingly advancing the GMT hand by accident) many times until I felt the crown “catch,” and only then could I screw it down without messing with any of the setting functions. I haven’t encountered this before on ETA or Sellita-based GMT movements and I’m not quite sure what’s going on here, but I’m hoping it was simply a problem with my review unit. Other than this, no gripes.

    Verdict

    Had the Aquascaphe GMT come out, say, three to five years ago, it would be a no-brainer of a recommendation under the “Affordable Automatic GMT Watch” category. Now, of course, there’s some stiff competition from all around the world. However, Baltic has always been great at one thing, which is offering a watch that looks “vintage-inspired” without directly recalling any one specific model. There’s clearly plenty of the GMT Master in this piece, but not enough that it should cause anyone to faint. (Though no doubt some will.) For the money, it’s absolutely one of the best buys in affordable GMT watches, and probably the best one to see the light of day in 2020, that most accursed of years. Would we recommend it? We sure would.

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    How Did the Rolex Daytona Go From Flop to Icon?

    Welcome to Watches You Should Know, a biweekly column highlighting important or little-known watches with interesting backstories and unexpected influence. This week: the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona.

    Vintage watches are more collectible and visible than ever, with auction reports gracing the pages of mainstream publications like the Wall Street Journal and The New York Times. Actually, when we talk about collectible vintage watches, what we’re really talking about is Rolex and Patek Philippe, because the chasm between the desirability and values of watches from these two brands and the rest couldn’t be larger.

    Today, the Daytona is one of Rolex’s most popular models, and no one is surprised when a rare vintage model achieves an astronomical price at auction. This is ironic, because not that long ago, Rolex dealers could hardly give these models away.

    While auction prices for the one time flop of a watch were skyrocketing, tales of the infamous wait lists for new models at Rolex authorized dealers swirled among watch collecting circles. Prospective buyers would be lucky to find a dealer with a one-year waitlist, and three- to five-year lists were not uncommon.

    Dealers couldn’t get nearly enough stock to satisfy the demand, and Daytonas were often held back for the best customers. It’s not too often that a watch goes from being a sales dud to a piece for which people will wait years (just for the honor of paying full retail price), but that’s what makes the Daytona such a fascinating story.

    Rolex had been producing chronographs for decades before the Daytona came along, but two significant aesthetic elements separate the Daytona from its predecessors: the external tachymeter bezel, and a contrasting color scheme for the dial and chronograph registers. Reference 6239, introduced in 1963, kicked off these two features and was the first Rolex Cosmograph.

    paul newman rolex daytona 6239 gear patrol
    The Daytona. Paul Newman’s own ’Paul Newman’ Daytona

    Phillips

    Here’s where the naming can get a bit confusing for the uninitiated, so we’ll break it down. “Chronograph” is the generic name for a watch that can time events with a stopwatch function that is separate from the main timekeeping function. “Cosmograph” is the trademarked name that Rolex gives to its chronographs, and “Daytona” is the name of the model line. Legend has it that Rolex chose the Cosmograph name due to the advent of space travel, which had captured the imagination for 1960s society.

    rolex collecting gear patrol lemon 1
    A 6264 ’Lemon Dial’ Daytona circa 1970

    Henry Phillips

    The inspiration for the Daytona name is more clear-cut. In 1964, Rolex began to sponsor the annual 24 Hours of Daytona race, later renaming it the Rolex 24 at Daytona. By doing this, Rolex had cemented the link between the Cosmograph and motorsports, a link that was later reinforced by spotting the watch on the wrists of famous drivers, and most notably, racing enthusiast and actor Paul Newman.

    The Daytona has always been a true sports watch that was meant to be worn and used, even under conditions that the typical chronograph wasn’t designed to endure. The famous Rolex Oyster case provided the watch a water-resistant enclosure that made it safe to use as a daily wearer, free from the fear of a getting caught in a rainstorm or taking a dip in the pool.

    In 1965, Rolex released the reference 6240 Daytona, the follow-up the 6239. It remained largely unchanged, with the exception of new screw-down chronograph pushers to improve water-resistance. Gaskets can protect chronograph pushers from water intrusion, but if a pusher is accidentally actuated while submerged, your ship is sunk.

    Between 1961 and 1991, the Daytona used a manual-wind movement source from Valjoux/ETA, the venerable Valjoux 72. This movement powered many of the 1960’s and 70’s best chronographs, and by all accounts is an excellent movement. Though its performance and quality is unimpeachable, the movement wasn’t a particularly user-friendly choice for the Daytona. The watch needs to be hand wound every other day to keep it ticking; this isn’t very practical in a watch with a screw-down crown. Couple that with the sudden and quickly overwhelming popularity of quartz watches in the 1970s and it’s clear why these watches didn’t sell.

    daytona
    An early 6240 Daytona, circa 1965.

    Phillips

    The most notable of the 6240 references are the “exotic dial” models, known by collectors as “Paul Newman Daytonas,” and the actual watch that led to that name briefly became the most expensive watch ever sold when it hammered at auction for $17,752,500 in 2017.

    These models have contrasting dials and chronograph registers like the standard models, though they also have a contrasting minute track around the outer edge of the dial that matches the registers. The minute ring typically has red printing, and the chrono registers have a unique design. These exotic dials were given the Newman moniker after being spotted on the actor’s wrist in photos, and they are now the most collectible of all Daytonas by a mile.

    In the 60s and 70s, these watches were the redheaded stepchildren of an already unpopular line, and few were sold. Of course, today this translates into rarity, which when coupled with desirability equals stratospheric prices. It’s hard to touch one for much less than $100,000, and for a gold model, well, if you have to ask you can’t afford it.

    A Revamped Rolex Daytona

    In 1991 Rolex released a completely revamped Daytona, the reference 16520. The case jumped up from 37mm to a more modern 40mm size, and the contrasting chrono register color scheme was dropped. The Daytona finally switched to an automatic movement, which Rolex sourced from Zenith.

    rolex
    A 16520 “Zenith” Daytona

    Phillips

    Zenith was well known for producing excellent chronograph calibers, though Rolex updated the base movements to bring them to their own specifications. The date function was eliminated from the base movement, and the balance’s oscillations rate was slowed down from 36,000 beats per hour to 28,800, necessitating less frequent servicing.

    The most recent version includes the 4130 in-house chronograph movement and a ceramic bezel. Getting an in-house movement in 2010 made the Daytona a Rolex inside and out for the first time ever. The Zenith movement was complicated and difficult to service, but the new 4130 caliber was designed from the ground up to be precise, long-lasting and simple to service, with a 72-hour power reserve. Rolex pulled out all the stops for this movement, and included all of the best chronograph features, such as a vertical clutch and column wheel.

    daytona ss cerachrom gear patrol lead full
    The current Daytona.

    Rolex

    The case size remains 40mm, and the metallic disks surrounding each chrono register make the modern model the flashiest steel Daytona yet, but that’s in comparison to its very understated predecessors. With the caliber 4130 movement, the watch offers style, heritage, collectability and fine watchmaking all for a relatively reasonable price (currently $13,150 in steel), so it’s no mystery why the watch is so in demand. Vintage models are essentially unobtanium for those of use without a seven figure net worth, but the automatic Daytonas should be high on every watch lovers’ wish list.

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    This Unique Feature Is Seldom Found in Affordable Watches

    With its simple, retro-tinged look and mechanical movement, Timex‘s Marlin seems designed particularly for watch enthusiasts. Now, two new versions offer a feature that’ll be familiar to to the horologically inclined: a combination of Roman and Arabic numerals in a style referred to as a “California dial.” Unlike so many other watches collectors clamor for, however, they’re as enticingly affordable as the Marlin Automatic watches before them.

    timex marlin

    Timex

    timex marlin

    Timex

    The new Marlin California Dial watches are offered in two versions: a silver dial variant and one with a gold toned case and black dial. Both feature the line’s 40mm case with its highly domed acrylic crystal and 50m of water resistance. They’re powered by the basic Miyota 8215 automatic movement which is visible through a display case back.

    Available now through the Timex store online, each comes with a leather strap and has a price of $249. They’d make a great gift for the budding watch enthusiast in your life and two-day shipping will have them there in time for the holidays if you order today.

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    This Is Possibly the Most Underrated Rolex Watch

    Welcome to Watches You Should Know, a biweekly column highlighting important or little-known watches with interesting backstories and unexpected influence. This week: the Rolex Explorer.


    The Explorer is a Rolex sport watch in its purest form. It’s unflashy but recognizable, and it presents the features, design language and history that underpins multiple icons of the brand. Most of all, however, it’s known as the watch that accompanied the first humans confirmed to summit Mount Everest. (Sort of.)

    sir edmund hillary everest

    Getty

    The story of Everest and the Explorer is important and exciting, but it requires some unpacking and qualification right up front: Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay reached the summit of the world’s tallest mountain in 1953, and Rolex had sponsored the expedition and provided a watch. Just like when Rolex placed its waterproof Oyster watch on the wrist of Mercedes Gleitze for her 1923 swim across the English Channel, it was a brilliant marketing and publicity coup.

    The Explorer’s role in the 1953 expedition has been so mythologized, however, it’s also been closely scrutinized, as nerdy watch collectors are want to do. Some have questioned what watch Hillary was actually wearing the moment he stepped foot on the peak, as he also had his own Smiths De Luxe watch with him — but there’s no way to confirm one way or the other. Both watches made the trip and both companies prominently advertised it. (Interestingly, it would seem that Norgay chose to take his own gold Rolex Datejust on the British 1953 expedition — one that he received as a gift from the company following an expedition in 1952). Which watches actually summited the mountain is still cause for fierce debate.

    rolex oyster perpetual
    The actual Oyster Perpetual watch Rolex lent for the Everest expedition.

    Beyer Watch and Clock Museum, Zurich

    It’s also noteworthy that the watch Rolex provided was an Oyster Perpetual made in 1950 before there was such thing as an Explorer collection. Just as Hillary would later be knighted and have Sir tacked onto his name for the achievement, the Oyster Perpetual would only later be branded with “Explorer” on its dial. The Oyster Perpetual that went to Everest had a white dial, dagger indices, leaf hands, and lacked most of the design cues associated with the Explorer today.

    Many of those traits, along with the “Explorer” designation, would be introduced the very same year as the Everest expedition. The 1953 reference 6350 had the proven-rugged Oyster case, automatic winding, the 3-6-9 Arabic numerals, triangular 12 o’clock marker and Rolex’s iconic Mercedes handset — all features that existed on previous Rolex watches, but which coalesced to celebrate the occasion. It also had a delectably cool dial texture which collectors have come to refer to as “honeycomb” due to its pattern.

    vintage rolex ad

    Rolex

    vintage rolex ad

    Rolex

    So, if you buy a 2020 Rolex Explorer today, will it look at all like what was on Edmund Hillary’s wrist in 1953? Nope. But all the little details of the Explorer’s story serve to fill out its character and only make it more interesting. Between 1953 and the present, the Explorer has evolved but largely stayed true to the first model.

    rolex explorer vintage

    Analog/Shift

    The biggest change came in 1971 when the collection was expanded to include the Explorer II, a watch with very different looks and functions but connected to the original in its stated purpose. The Explorer II has a larger case with crown guards, a fixed steel bezel with 24-hour markings and a GMT complication expressed as a big, bright orange arrow on the dial. With its own tales of adventure, it’s sporty and cool, and one of the most popular Rolex models today. (Why the fixed, 24-hour bezel and GMT function? It was made for spelunkers, so that they could tell whether it was AM or PM in the darkness of a cave.)

    rolex explorer modern

    Rolex

    The poor Explorer, with its smaller case, plain black dial and simple functionality lacking even a date display, is largely overshadowed by the Explorer II and other more exciting Rolex sport watches. In 2010, the 36mm case established in 1953 was updated to a more modern 39mm, but because it’s somewhat overlooked, it happens to be one of the most accessible Rolex watches available today ($5,900) and makes for an excellent everyday watch.

    To help the Explorer stand out in the catalog, Rolex might consider bringing back the “honeycomb” dial texture with a modern execution. It would excite brand fans and capitalize on all the current vintage watch enthusiasm. Add an updated movement like other watches have recently received with (the caliber 3230), and voila: another Rolex hit — no need for a 41mm case, thanks.

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    Longines Makes a Watch for Everyone on Your Gift List

    Since 1832, Longines has been making meticulously crafted timepieces for everyone from horse race officiators to airline pilots. The brand known for its steadfast commitment to excellence, precision and elegance has come to epitomize the pioneer spirit, making a Longines watch the perfect choice for the tasteful and adventurous. If you have a few people left on your shopping list that fit that description, or fall into those categories yourself, we’ve picked out a few of Longines’ best timepieces worth adding to your cart.

    Longines Men’s Watches

    Longines’ diverse lineup of men’s watches has something for everyone, whether you’re looking for a classic dress watch that won’t break the bank or something a bit more unique — like the Longines Master Collection with its moon phase complication and column wheel chronograph. From the sea to the sky, these timepieces will get you where you need to go on time.

    Longines Women’s Watches

    Made with the brand’s signature commitment to excellence and elegance, any of these women’s watches would make for a perfect holiday gift for someone special. From the refinement of La Grande Classique de Longines to the more design-oriented Longines Heritage Classic, there’s something everyone can enjoy for a long time to come.

    This Longines Spirit Makes the Perfect Everyday Watch

    Creating a watch that’s wearable across your entire wardrobe is a challenge, but it’s something that Swiss brand Longines knows well. The Chronometer-certified Longines Spirit is not just accurate, but its 40mm stainless steel case, black dial and scratch-resistant sapphire crystal make it infinitely stylish and wearable. If you’re in search of a watch you can wear every day, look no further. For more on what makes the Spirit so versatile, read on below.


    longines spirit mens watch

    Longines


    1.

    Classic, Timeless Design: If you’re going to invest in a watch with the aim of wearing it daily, it’s best to look for something with a refined and elegant design. The Spirit fits the bill with a classic dial layout and black colorway. Plus, it adds a healthy dose of functionality by hitting the hands, Arabic numerals and indices with Swiss Super-LumiNova.

    2.

    Durable, Wearable Case: At the near-goldilocks size of 40mm, the Spirit’s stainless steel case works on a wide variety of wrists — which, coincidentally, also makes it a great gift this holiday season. But beyond just the sizing, the Spirit’s stainless steel case makes it ultra-durable and able to withstand daily wear for years to come.

    3.

    Matches Everything from Jeans to a Suit: The final test — can it pair with everything in your closet? In the case of the Longines Spirit, the answer is yes. It looks great paired with raw denim, a navy suit, even a pair of cords. And while we think you would be doing the watch a disservice, it’ll even pair with your sweatpants and loungewear, too.


    Price: $2,150

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    Glashütte Original’s Take on a Dive Watch Is Ultra Premium

    It has long been accepted in the watch community that dive watches make excellent everyday watches. They are rugged, highly legible and supremely waterproof. The downside however is that most dive watches lack a certain, style. Good thing the Glashütte Original SeaQ Panorama Date is not most dive watches. It features an automatic 36-13 movement, a red gold case with a rotating red gold bezel with ceramic inlay, a centrally screwed sapphire glass case back and a galvanic black dial with sunray finish and Super-LumiNova appliques. To top it off, the SeaQ Panorama Date comes on an ultra classic black rubber dive strap. Call it the ultimate watch for everyday wear.

    Price: $24,900 USD

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