All posts in “Watches”

3 Comedians You Didn’t Know Were Serious About Watches

35th annual people's choice awards show

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Two comedians sit down in a café. One is wearing a Breitling pilot’s watch and the other is wearing a vintage Rolex easily worth six figures. This is no joke.

They are Jerry Seinfeld and Ellen DeGeneres, and they are both serious watch collectors — but in this episode of the Netflix interview series Comedians in Cars Getting Coffee, they don’t discuss their watches. Only those with the propensity to zero in on other people’s wrist-wear would even notice.

If you believe that a person’s watch reflects something deep about their character, some of your favorite comedians just might offer a lot to analyze. Those at the top of their field can also afford to indulge their hobbies and choose some quite serious, rare or otherwise interesting timepieces. Here are three top comedians that are also quietly impressive watch collectors.

Kevin Hart

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Next time you see a photo or clip of Kevin Hart, he probably won’t be wearing the same watch as the last time you saw him. Look closer, and it’ll very likely have a prestigious name on its dial — think Patek Philippe, Richard Mille, Audemars Piguet and Rolex. Hart is serious about watches.

According to an interview with Haute Time, Hart has made something of a tradition of treating himself to a watch or car to mark milestones or achievements in his career — and he’s got a lot of those. He’s quoted saying “the passion for watches has always been there.”

Hart’s collection includes blingy examples but also those of a conservative and understated style, like Rolex Daytonas and Patek Philippe calendar watches, which sugges that his interest in horology is more than about displaying wealth. It’s worth keeping an eye on his collection as it surely will continue to grow.

Ellen DeGeneres

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The six-figure vintage Rolex mentioned above is, more specifically, none other than a “Paul Newman” Daytona (ref. 6262). Ellen DeGeneres is said to have many more Rolex Daytonas, as well as others from the brand, both vintage and modern. You may spot her with anything from a Yacht Master to a Day-Date.

It seems she doesn’t mess around with anything other than “the best”: aside from Rolex, her other predilection appears to be Patek Philippe. Watch her wrist for a sporty steel Aquanaut or an elegant Grand Complication. (The type of watch collectors who follow auctions and speak in reference numbers are quietly nodding in approval right now.)

Jerry Seinfeld

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Rolex and Patek are what you tend to expect from watch collectors, so these brands might not as readily reveal their owners’ individual tastes. That’s why Jerry Seinfeld is particularly interesting: he’s a Breitling collector. Keep a keen eye during his Comedians in Cars Getting Coffee series and you’ll spot a different Breitling for almost every episode (there’s a G-Shock in there too).

Cars, however, are his first passion, so racing or automotive-themed watches might seem the most natural. Breitling, on the other hand, focuses on aviation and most of the chronographs Seinfeld is seen wearing are pilot’s watches of some sort. It just goes to show that his tastes are truly his own and they seem rooted more in a general appreciation of gear and machines (though he’s also clearly into his sneakers). He’s also been spotted with the likes of Cartier, Heuer and Rolex.

Breitling’s typically bold and technical watches serve to add another dimension to his personality rather than simply fitting in with the character you already knew. It suits him, for sure, though it would be interesting to ask him what specifically drew him to this brand.

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Everything You Could Possibly Want to Know About Dress Watches

Yes — the handsome, classical type of design we call the “dress watch” is still relevant. You might like your casual styles and sporty tool watches, but it’s hard to deny the archetypal appeal of that which is simple and elegant. Spanning every imaginable price level and varying broadly in form and function, dress watches take many different shapes. So what makes the right dress watch for you?

There’s no simple answer. If you’re a hardcore tool watch guy, you may want something inexpensive to keep in a drawer for formal occasions — or you might relish rocking a vintage Omega DeVille with jeans and a T-shirt. There are no rules, but there’s a lot to consider, from price and complications to case material and size. And there’s a lot to discover, from prestigious brands’ dress watches to independents doing great things.

Below you’ll find the topics related to dress watches you’ll want to consider: We break down everything from Patek Philippe’s Calatrava and perpetual calendars to vintage and modern Rolex. Whether shopping or exploring, this is where you can delve in to the world of dress watches of all kinds.

The Best Dress Watches for Men

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From $1,000 to $20,000 and everything in between.

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5 Classy Dress Watches Under $1,000

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A great dress watch doesn’t have to cost as much as a car.

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5 Questions to Ask Before You Buy a Dress Watch

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A good dress watch can cost a pretty penny. We help steer you towards the right purchase by asking yourself these simple questions.

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Everything You Need to Know to Buy a Rolex Datejust

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Rolex; HQ Milton

The Rolex Datejust, in continuous production since 1945, is one of the most popular watches in the world.

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A Brief Guide to Affordable Vintage Rolex Watches

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Analog/Shift

From Air Kings to Oyster Perpetuals, these are the Rollies you can buy without taking out a HELOC.

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A Brief Guide to Vintage Omega Watches

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Those Watch Guys

From Seamasters to DeVilles and more, vintage Omega is where you’ll find some of the greatest dress watches ever.

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What Makes the Cartier Tank the Quintessential Dress Watch?

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Analog / Shift

The Tank is one of the most elegant and iconic watches ever made, but it owes its significance to more than a just great design.

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Want a Cartier Tank? Here Are Three Worthy Alternatives for Less

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These three dress watches offer attractive alternatives to the Cartier Tank experience, with classic looks that stand out among so many round watches.

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Why a $22,000 Entry-Level Dress Watch Is Worth Every Penny

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Hunter D. Kelley

The Calatrava is the quintessential Patek Philippe, and perhaps even the quintessential dress watch, period.

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Three Affordable Alternatives to the Patek Philippe Calatrava

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The Calatrava is perhaps the platonic ideal of the dress watch — but they ain’t cheap. Here are a few watches with a similar look for much less scratch.

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These Perpetual Calendars Are Some of the Best Watches from Patek Philippe

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Patek Philippe’s complicated watchmaking is famous the world over, and their mechanical perpetual calendars are the stars of their catalog.

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The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Brought Two Companies Together to Form a Juggernaut of the Watch Industry

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Brenden Clarke

One of the world’s most famous dress watches is celebrating a big anniversary with a brand new model.

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Is This the Vintage-Styled Dress Watch to Rule Them All?

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Zen Love

We review the Rado Golden Horse 1957: a near exact reproduction of a vintage watch that hits all the right modern notes.

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Five Of the Best Affordable Dress Watches Worth Investing In

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Hunter Kelley

Handsome, mechanically-powered watches from Oris, Longines, Seiko and more.

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The NOMOS Lambda Steel Makes a Strong Case to Be Your Everyday Watch

    For some, it may seem odd to be speaking about a luxury wristwatch at the moment. “What good is a watch few people will see?” They might say. Or, “Aren’t dress watches only for business meetings?” But those with similar thoughts have not met the NOMOS Glashütte Lambda Steel, the venerated watchmaker’s latest release and an ode to 175 years of watchmaking tradition in Glashütte.

    The benefits of a high-quality wristwatch reach far beyond the boardroom or a night out on the town. The right wristwatch can entirely alter the way that you feel — change your mood; bring new life to an old outfit; inspire confidence; and can especially bring you joy as your gaze inevitably falls upon its face throughout the day. The NOMOS Lambda Steel is just such a watch. We spent a week with the Lambda Steel strapped to our wrist — and we wish we had more time.

    From the Brand

    “Fine watchmaking, now presented in a stainless steel case: The special edition Lambda model combines 175 years of Glashütte tradition and high-tech precision with modern, everyday wearability. This special edition, limited to 175 pieces, is regulated according to chronometer standards. All this makes Lambda an unmistakably unique item, a watch for life.”

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    Gear Patrol Studios

    What We Like

    For our tester, right from the start there was a lot to like about the Lambda Steel. First and foremost, it offers the same high-quality, hand-wound, in-house movement as the rest of the Lambda model family that is cased in gold and rose gold, a watch that retails closer to $20,000. The DUW 1001 movement is regulated to chronometer standards which for those who aren’t familiar, means that it’s exceedingly accurate.

    But that can all be told from looking at the spec sheet. What really impressed our tester was what came upon closer inspection, and by strapping the watch to the wrist. Immediately noticeable is the watch’s near-goldilocks case size of 40mm. For most wearers, this will be right in the sweet spot — as it was for our tester. But if you often wear a smaller or larger watch, the Lambda Steel strikes a nice middle ground and can truly work for everyone (even those with smaller wrists if you swap out the Horween genuine shell cordovan strap).

    A close second in terms features immediately noticeable on the Lambda Steel is the high-gloss enamel dial. Enamel dials are somewhat of a calling card for high-end luxury watches. It’s an incredibly labor-intensive process to create one, yet nothing quite compares to the color of an enamel dial. As a result, they typically command a much higher price tag than the $7,500 that the Lambda Steel can be had for. In order to achieve the enamel finish on the Lambda Steel, NOMOS uses a high-gloss lacquer to coat the dials in several layers. After the application of each layer, the dial is polished before the next layer is applied. The result is a light transparency in the surface of the dial, which resembles enamel.

    But what really brings this wristwatch over the top is its incredible yet simple attention to detail. Our tester was immediately drawn to the typeface utilized on the dial in calling out “Gangreserve 84 Stunden” — denoting the watch’s 84-hour power reserve. It’s an unmistakably Bauhaus-inspired design, and one that lives up to the movements promise of combining aesthetics with everyday function. Most would notice this detail after a cursory inspection of the watch. But perhaps its most whimsical detail is easily missed in such an inspection.

    By taking a close look at the movement through the exhibition caseback, hand-carved on the balance cock are the words “Mit Liebe in Glashütte Gefertigt,” which translates to “Lovingly Produced in Glashütte.” That level of care and passion comes through in the entirety of watch — whether you’re the owner or simply an admirer.

    nomos lamda

    Gear Patrol Studios

    Who It’s For

    In the eyes of our tester, the Lambda Steel is for virtually everyone — so long as you aren’t often finding yourself piloting a plane or exploring the depths of the Mariana Trench. It hits all the right touch points of a high-quality watch well-worth investing in.

    Verdict

    If you appreciate good design, a slim profile and a watch that will run for 84 hours on the dot without needing to wind it, the Lambda Steel makes a strong case to be your everyday watch. It will often make you smile as you steal glances at it throughout the day, whether it be the Bauhaus typeface, enamel dial or impressive power reserve sub-dial and complication that belies its horological prowess.

    BUY NOW: $7,500

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This Is the Root of All Badass Seiko Dive Watches

Welcome to Watches You Should Know, a biweekly column highlighting important or little-known watches with interesting backstories and unexpected influence. This week: the Seiko 6105.

Though once largely excluded from the discussion of fine watchmaking, Seiko now competes shoulder-to-shoulder with prestigious Swiss brands. Ironically, it’s the robust everyman watch with its reputation for value upon which the Japanese giant built its name. Early Seiko dive watches might not be the bargain they once, but one of the most iconic and influential examples remains the quirky-come-classic 6105.

Produced from 1968 to 1977, the 6105 was made in two distinctive body styles: the cushion-cased 8000/8009 and the larger, asymmetrically-cased 8110/8119, both viewed with great admiration by vintage Seiko enthusiasts. Together, they followed first true dive watch made by Seiko, the 6217 (“62MAS”).

You can see the 6105’s influence right down the line of watches that followed it: There’s the 4 o’clock crown common on many Seiko divers today, and the cushion-shaped case found its way onto the Seiko reference 6309 of 1976 — a watch that became a Seiko collector’s piece in its own right. Later watches like the SKX series and the modern “Turtle” line are directly descended from the 6105’s design heritage.

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Martin Sheen as Captain Willard in the 1979 film Apocalypse Now famously wore a Seiko 6105.

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During the Vietnam War, U.S. troops were known to buy 6105-8000/8009s at the PXs (Post Exchanges) on bases in Southeast Asia. Many soldiers wore them through the rigors of combat, as Army-issued watches were known to fail in the jungle environment. Lots of pieces made their way back to the States on the wrists of service members after their tours were done — and that’s a testament to the watch’s toughness, a heap of story and character, as well as a powerful source of nostalgia.

In the 1979 film Apocalypse Now, the character Captain Willard (played by Martin Sheen) portrays such a US soldier in Vietnam while famously wearing a 6105-8110. This combination of history and popular culture are just the sort of thing that gets watch nerds worked up into a delighted frenzy — and that’s before taking into account the 6105’s technical specs.

The 6105-8000 features an easy-wearing 41mm cushion case with a signed crown (a rarity for Seikos of the time) at the 4 o’clock position. The in-house automatic 17 jewel 21,600 bph cal. 6105A powers the watch; some were hacking, others were not, and all had quick-set dates and could not be manually wound. The rumor is that the early models with “waterproof” on the dial were non-hacking, and that the later models with “water resistant” were hacking, but there are conflicting reports. All of the watches were water-resistant to 150 meters.

Combine the 6105’s history with its quality features and you have a winning combination. If you’re looking to pick up a vintage model, be wary of watches that have been significantly overhauled with replacement dials, hands, or even new movements. As with other vintage Seiko watches, however, the 6105 has been “discovered” by the wider collector scene and no longer dirt-cheap. In response to public enthusiasm, Seiko has released modern remakes that offer a lot of attractive features — if not the genuine character of those that have traversed the decades.

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A Cool Tudor Special Edition Dive Watch Is Landing in the U.S.

Think back to 2017, and you may recall a special, limited edition Tudor Heritage Black Bay Bronze BLUE made in honor of European retailer Bucherer’s 130th birthday (which actually occurred in 2018). Otherwise a standard Tudor Heritage Black Bay Bronze (43mm bronze case, in-house Tudor movement), the watch featured a special blue dial and blue bezel insert and shipped on a matching blue and gold fabric strap. However, it was only available from Bucherer.

Now, the watch is coming Stateside, and you can buy one exclusively at Tourneau boutiques. Recalling Tudor’s blue-dialed Submariners from the 1970s (as well as the large crown of the 7924 “Big Crown” Sub), the new Black Bay Bronze Bucherer BLUE has a beautiful blue dial and matching bezel insert. Hewn out of a chunk of bronze — and water-resistant to 200m — it features a hefty 43mm case, an extra distressed brown leather strap, and the chronometer-certified, in-house Tudor cal. MT5601 movement with silicon balance spring. The movement features an impressive 70-hour power reserve and a frequency of 4Hz.

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Tudor

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Marian Gerard

The blue and gold fabric strap that accompanies the Blue references the original straps fashioned from parachute webbing used by the French Marine Nationale on their Tudor Submariners in the 1970s. The Tudor Heritage Black Bay Bronze BLUE retails for $4,150 and is available exclusively through Tourneau boutiques nationwide and on Tourneau.com.

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What’s So Mysterious About Mystery Dial Watches?

The clever engineering of a mechanical watch is typically hidden behind a dial, but it’s not particularly mysterious. That is, unless you find that the hands on your watch keep the time while appearing to float midair above the dial with no visible connection to anything else. This is the head-scratching but captivating effect of a “mystery dial,” and it’s not only fun to observe but has a fascinating story behind its invention.

The mystery dial seems like what you’d get if you combined a watchmaker’s skills with the showmanship of a professional magician. That, in fact, is exactly how it came to be: In 19th-century France, Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin performed feats of conjuring, slight-of-hand and all manner of illusion. He’s been called the “father of modern magic” and was the inspiration for the famous magician Ehrich Weiss to adopt the stage name Harry Houdini.

Before he became known for his performances, however, Robert-Houdin followed in his father’s footsteps as a watchmaker. It would seem he was seeking a bigger reaction than merely what an elegant timepiece could elicit, and this would manifest in his magic performances as well as objects he created.

Robert-Houdin was from the old-school generation of watchmakers that hand-crafted every clockwork component individually. He created automatons of singing birds, dancers and robot-like figures which would draw and write on paper. They were calculated to astound, just like his magic. In fact, the mystery clocks were themselves akin to one of his tricks, as he’d actually take them on stage as part of performances.

konstantin chaykin

Konstantin Chaykin

Not only were the hands of Robert-Houdin’s mystery clocks apparently not attached to anything at all, one could see right through the dial to the other side with no clockwork visible. In fact, [SPOILER ALERT] they were mounted on clear discs with concealed toothed edges. The clockwork was also hidden (for example, in the clock’s base), and the hands seemed to be turning entirely on their own.

Watches or clocks that produce a similar effect are now known to have “mystery dials” regardless of where the mechanics are hidden or other factors. Though Robert-Houdin is credited as the inventor, Cartier is arguably best known for the exotic mystery clocks they created starting with the Model A in 1912. Later in the 20th century, some would apply the concept to wristwatches, including Longines, LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin and Zodiac.

The history of Robert-Houdin and the mystery dial makes such watches much more than a mere gimmick, and knowing how they work doesn’t ruin the effect — it arguably makes it even more interesting. Today, this type of watch is rare, but there are some recent examples keeping the unique concept alive.

Zodiac Astrographic

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Zodiac

The Astrographic came out in 1969, and seemed to reflect the space-age mindset of the time in its design and mysterious dial — some even featured high-beat, 5Hz movements. The modern company brought it back in the 21st century, but today even the modern versions can mostly only be found second-hand. It’s about the most affordable modern example of a mystery dial watch, but vintage ones can be even more accessible.

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Konstantin Chaykin Levitas

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Konstantin Chaykin

This Russian independent watchmaker is eccentric, wildly inventive and quite brilliant — he probably would have gotten along well with Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin. His Levitas watch features a clear dial with floating hands and is meant as a tribute to Robert-Houdin.

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Rotonde de Cartier Mysterieuse

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Cartier

The Rotonde de Cartier Mysterieuse watch is cool, in part, because it references the brand’s history making mystery dial clocks. The brand also executes the concept with its typical Cartier panache and offers it in a range of variations, from some with more traditional looks to those that reveal the mechanism behind a skeletonized portion of the dial.

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Zenith Is Taking a Shot at the Rolex Daytona with Its Newest Chronograph

Zenith Chronomaster Sport, $9,500-$10,000

Key Specs:

Case Diameter: 41mm
Case Depth: 13mm
Water Resistance: 100m
Movement: El Primero cal. 3600
Price: $9,500-$10,000

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Zenith’s El Primero movement family retains its position as one of the most significant horological developments ever — full stop. Since its debut in 1969 as one of the first automatic chronograph movements in the world (hence its name), it has captured the hearts of watch lovers everywhere with its smooth, column wheel-controlled action, its high frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour, and its classic tri-compax layout. Though it went out of production for roughly a decade, the El Primero was revived in the 1980s and has since provided a platform on which Zenith has innovated continuously for nearly forty years.

Following myriad vintage reissues of the original A386 and A384 watches, Zenith reimagined the El Primero as the engine within an entirely new, forward-thinking timepiece, the Chronomaster 2. The El Primero cal. 3600, which powered the watch, featured an increased power reserve of 60 hours, a hacking function and the ability to measure 1/10ths of a second. Outfitted to a skeletonized dial, it was a striking watch upon its debut in 2019, though perhaps a bit too avant-garde for the average watch buyer.

Now, however, the Chronomaster platform is being expanded upon in the form of the Chronomaster Sport — a new timepiece that both in look and feel, is poised to take on one of the world’s most well-known watches: the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona.

Notable

Much as I love the A384 and A386, I do feel like we’ve been inundated with too many vintage reissues lately. I long for fresh designs, and not just from Zenith, but from the industry as a whole. The Chronomaster Sport is certainly that — something new (though it does derive from the Chronomaster 2, of course). However, when sized up with its (assumed) purpose of posing a threat to the Daytona (perhaps “contender” is a better word, given Rolex’s virtually unassailable position), it might be more accurate to say that the watch’s design is new to Zenith. Indeed, it takes enough cues from the Daytona — from the bezel to the bracelet — that you’d be forgiven for dubbing it the “Zaytona,” as at least one Gear Patrol employee has done.

Who It’s For

Mainly two types of folks: those who want a Rolex Daytona, can’t find one, but are willing to pay for something similar from another high-end brand; and those who collect Zenith specifically. Will there will be folks out there aimlessly searching for a chronograph who stumble upon the Chronomaster Sport and go: that’s the one! Sure. But at $10,000, there probably won’t be very many of these people. For those who simply appreciate a well-made watch with excellent finishing, a serious horophile’s movement and good looks, to boot, the Chronomaster Sport also fits the bill.

Alternatives

Gee, I dunno — how about a watch that rhymes with “shmay-shmonah.” Rolex’s flagship chronograph is the obvious heavyweight champion against which the Chronomaster Sport is meant to compete. At $13,150 in steel, it’s certainly more expensive than the CS, but it’s got similar looks and features. (Ironically, what preceded the current caliber 4130 in the Daytona is the caliber 4030, a heavily modified version of, you guessed it, a Zenith El Primero movement.) It does not, however, feature a 1/10th-second chronograph and bezel.

The Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer 9900 is a Speedy with a twist that both in look and price delivers something reminiscent of the Chronomaster Sport experience — though in this case, in the form of a two-register chrono. At $8,750, it lives at a similar price point to the CS and also features an in-house chronograph movement and a steel bracelet. Its distinctive racing styling is evident in an outer tachymeter scale on the bezel and upon the inner minute track.

A third alternative — and a much cheaper one — is also a solid alternative to the Daytona itself: the Black Bay Chronograph with matching steel bracelet from Tudor. At $5,225, it includes the impressive Tudor MT5813 automatic chronometer movement, a 41mm case and a black dial with bi-compax layout and date. Not bad for half the price of the Chronomaster Sport. (Though again, you’re not getting that fun, 1/10th-second chronograph.)

Review

So what do we have here? Well, we’ve got a really damn nice watch — we can get that part out of the way. We have something that looks a fair amount like a Rolex Cosmograph Daytona — also noted. And We have a technically sophisticated, historically significant chronograph movement — all for $10k (or $9,500 on leather).

Let’s cover the “damn nice watch” part first: The Chronomaster Sport is housed in a 41mm stainless steel case with pump pushers, a signed, push-pull crown, a screw-down, sapphire case back, and a 20mm lug width. (The case back is actually held down with four screws, rather than screwed down itself.) This is a nice case — it’s brushed on the sides and the tops of the lugs, but also features a wide, polished chamfer that catches the light beautifully and adds some interest.

zenith

Henry Phillips

A black ceramic bezel features a unique scale etched in white: 1/10th of a second. This means that when you depress the top chronograph pusher to start the chronograph, it hauls ass around the watch dial in ten seconds. Upon stopping it, you can read the elapsed time on the bezel in 1/10ths of a second. Pretty neat! (Probably pretty useless in 2020, but so are all mechanical watches in the age of the iPhone, so let’s move past that, shall we.)

The ceramic bezel is shiny and reflects the light, adding more dynamism to the watch’s look. The dial, as one typically is, is the true star of the show, however (I’m going to describe the black version, but a white is available as well): beneath the sapphire crystal is a silver rehaut with minutes/seconds executed in black, which lends the design yet more depth. The glossy black dial itself is busy, but not necessarily distracting: A nice touch is that the El Primero’s classic tri-compax arrangement of three subdials in contrasting colors is maintained on the CS. These overlap each other just a touch and are executed in different shades of a cobalt-like silver tone.

Running seconds are displayed at 9 o’clock, elapsed minutes are displayed at 6 o’clock and elapsed seconds at 3 o’clock. Why the elapsed seconds display? Recall that the central chronograph seconds hand is actually displaying 1/10ths of a second (up to 10 seconds in total, as registered on the watch’s bezel), so you need a separate display for seconds.

I’m of two minds about this arrangement: On the one hand, the 1/10th-second display shows off the El Primero cal. 3600’s hi-beat prowess (36,000 vibrations per hour, in this case), and it’s fun to watch the chronograph in action. On the other hand, who is going to be measuring 1/10ths of a second of anything with a mechanical chronograph these days? Probably no one. On the other other hand, who is measuring anything with a chronograph these days? Very few people.

zenith

Henry Phillips

On the other other other hand, if I am going to use a chronograph in 2020, I probably want one in which I can easily track elapsed seconds and not have to consult a tiny subdial, given that this function is much more useful to me than tracking 1/10ths of a second. In short, while I understand the motivation for providing such a unique function on a modern chrono, I personally would’ve preferred one of the more conventional variety. (On the other other other other hand, however, giving the watch a 1/10th-second stopwatch effectively differentiates it not only from the Daytona, but, to my knowledge, from any other watch. I can’t think of another model with a 1/10th-second bezel, so, to that end, 10 points to Zenith for doing something different.)

But back to the dial: The interlocking, tri-color counters with their silver backgrounds and white printing are a nice touch. They recall classic El Primero models but work well on the dial of a more modern design, so I have to applaud Zenith on their use here. What I can’t stand is the damn date window at 4:30. Who in their right mind still believes that this is a good idea? There are so many designs out there that have moved the thing to 6 o’clock, allowed its presence there to take a chunk out of a subdial, and all was well in the world. A 4:30 date window, however, may be the largest design travesty in the past 75 years of watchmaking. I appreciate that its background is matched to the dial for unobtrusiveness, but for God’s sake, just get rid of it.

The remainder of the dial, I love. Printed on the outer edge is a 1/5th-seconds track, next to which are rectangular applied hour indices tipped with lume that catch the light beautifully. These are matched to steel, lume-tipped hands and a red-tipped seconds hand counter-balanced with the Zenith star. The subdials hands (excluding the running seconds hand) are also red-tipped for better legibility. Beyond this, the dial is badged with the Zenith star in silver, the brand wordmark, “El Primero” and “36000 VpH” (to denote the movement’s hi-beat operating frequency) and “Swiss Made” at 6 o’clock.

Overall, this is a great dial. Get rid of that f*cking date window at 4:30 and it would be even better, but what are you gonna do — the people want the date.

Now, to the part of the Chronomaster Sport that irks me the most: the bracelet. This is a Rolex Oyster bracelet with Zenith branding. It’s got the brushed outer links and polished inner links of a modern Oyster; it’s got the fold-over clasp of an Oyster. The brand says the watch “…comes on…a steel bracelet similar to those conceived by Gay Frères, who supplied many of Zenith’s metal bracelets in the past.” Fine — Gay Frères indeed made bracelets for Zenith as well as for numerous other prestigious brands, Rolex included. However, the Oyster is a Rolex design, and Rolex eventually purchased Gay Frères in 1998 and developed its own modern versions of the Oyster bracelet, of which this is simply a copy. The ladder bracelet, however, is distinctly associated with Zenith, and accompanied many of their watches beginning in 1969 with the El Primero.

zenith

Henry Phillips

So, I must ask, why on God’s green earth would you not pair your new Zenith chronograph with a bracelet that is distinctly associated with Zenith? I suspect that the answer is simple enough: this watch is meant to function first and foremost as an alternative to the Daytona, and as the Daytona ships on an Oyster bracelet, the maison felt the need to offer something as similar as possible. Though I could be off the mark, here, I can’t think of any other good reason why the manufacture would offer the CS on an Oyster copy instead of the ladder bracelet, and I have to say, I find this disappointing. A subtle tweak such as this would, to my mind, would have pushed the watch far enough into its own distinct territory as to render our “Zaytona” nickname unjustifiable. But as it is, many more people out there are going to chalk this watch up to a Daytona copy (albeit a very, very well-made one) instead of a distinct Zenith chronograph, and that’s a shame. It’s a shame because this really is a cool damn watch.

All that aside, how does it wear? It wears nicely, I must say. At 41mm wide, it’s larger than most watches I wear, but I’ll admit that the extra millimeter in diameter from my Submariner isn’t terribly noticeable. A case depth of around 13mm (measured by myself with a ruler so please forgive me if I’m off) is noticeable compared to that of a dive watch, but certainly not outrageous for a chronograph. The bracelet, despite my feelings about it, is comfortable, and because the case’s lugs angle downward to receive the bracelet, it hugs my 7″ wrist well, rather than leans off the edges uncomfortably. This is a 41mm watch that, to my mind, does not feel that large, which I appreciate. And the thing just looks good. I mean, to hell with that 4:30 date, but still — this is a handsome watch.

Verdict

zenith

Henry Phillips

I like the Chronomaster Sport a lot. In fact, I’m giving Zenith a hard time about it because I like it so much — what feel like small tweaks could, to my mind, truly transform this watch into a modern classic. Much as I love the A384 and A386 (and I really love those models), I’m tired of seeing them in eight gazillion different special editions. (This one’s black! This one’s blue! This one is a special partnership! This one changes the channel on your television!) And Zenith will have to forgive me, here, because I don’t aim this criticism solely at them — I’m sick of this as an industry trend. Who decided that already, 20 years into the 21st century, that we are clean out of ideas for new watches?

I reject this idea. (Though I can easily reject it from the comfort of my armchair, to be fair, but that’s beside the point.) Rather, I believe what the industry needs is more adventurousness, and Zenith has engaged upon a worthy endeavor, here, in striving to include an updated version of a seminal piece of technology in an entirely new design. However, just a tad too much of this design references that of the competition, to my mind. Switch out that faux-Oyster for a ladder, get rid of (or move) the date, and we’d have something truly special here. If I didn’t need that theoretical $10k for, you know, shelter, food and clothing, I would totally sign up for one.

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The Best Affordable Mechanical Watches

Mechanical watches (which include both the hand-winding and automatic variety) have seen a huge uptick in popularity in the last several years, and this considering that battery-powered quartz movements are more cheap and ubiquitous than ever, and smartwatches are seen on more and more wrists as time goes by.

While producing a mechanical wristwatch can be an expensive proposition, the proliferation of relatively inexpensive but high-quality Japanese movements has meant that smaller boutique brands finally have a way to craft affordable hand-winding and automatic timepieces, while the larger brands can make this technology affordable with large-scale production. Whether you’re looking to gift someone a diver or a dress watch, there’s an affordable mechanical watch out there for everybody.

Orient Tristar


At the very entry point into Orient’s mechanical offerings is the obscure “Tristar” line that feels in many ways like the brand’s counterpart to the Seiko 5. Hell, the movement inside (the Orient Caliber 469) is based on a 1970s Seiko caliber which itself formed the basis for the modern 7S. Tristars can be readily had on Amazon or at Long Island Watch for under $100, which is not bad considering they all come stock on stainless steel bracelets.

Price: ~$75

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Seiko 5 SNK805


The Seiko 5 has long been a staple in the Japanese brand’s line, offering inexpensive mechanical goodness to the masses. The SNK805 features a military-inspired dial with day/date function, an automatic movement and 30m of water resistance. With its 37mm stainless steel case and matching nylon strap, the Seiko 5 is the perfect mechanical watch for the field.

Price: ~$99

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Swatch Sistem 51 Clouds


Famous for being the world’s first mechanical watch made completely via automated assembly, the Sistem 51 offers an automatic movement with date visible through a transparent case back. While there are numerous dial and strap options available, this black variant with matching textured strap and case is neutral enough to pair with most casualwear.

Price: $150

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Citizen NH Series


The NH series comes in a few flavors, though mostly in a simple dress watch — as well as a 100-meter dive watch — design. Another option for fans of the obscure is Citizen’s similar NJ series that uses the same Miyota movement but comes in titanium, as opposed to the NH’s stainless steel. With the premium material does come an increase in price, but some NJ references can still be had under $300.

Price: $157

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MVMT Arc Automatic


MVMT may have made a name for itself as a maker of fashion watches, but their most recent offering is a handsome 41mm mechanical timepiece available in several dial colors that utilizes an automatic date movement. A simple design that ships on a leather strap, the Arc is a lot of watch for under $300, and the perfect entry into the world of mechanical timepieces.

Price: $246+

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Timex Marlin California


The newest version of Timex’s popular Marlin line is equipped with a feature beloved by vintage watch enthusiasts: namely, the so-called “California” dial, which features half-Roman and half-Arabic numerals. Beyond this interesting dial, the watch comes packing the basic Miyota 8215 automatic movement which is visible through a display case back.

Price: $249

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Orient Sun & Moon V.3


Finding an affordable complicated watch based upon a mechanical movement is significantly easier said than done, but the Sun & Moon V.3 from Orient manages to integrate a day, date and day/night indicator into a 42.5mm case along with the time. Available in several dial colors, it’s an entry into complicated watchmaking that won’t break the bank.

Price: $270

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Dan Henry 1970


Dan’s Henry’s 1970, available in both 40mm and 44mm sizes and two dial colors, is a tribute to the compressor-cased dive watches of the late 1960s/early 1970s. Featuring an automatic movement and inner rotating bezel as well as a vintage Tropic-style dive strap, the 1970 is a modern homage to a classic case style from the height of scuba diving’s popularity.

Price: $290

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Bulova American Clipper



Bulova’s elegant American Clipper is a simple design that’s perfectly suited to dress watch duty. With its simple dial, day/date function, automatic movement and black leather strap, this is an affordable mechanical piece that’ll go well with any look.

Price: $280

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Spinnaker Cahill

Available in several dial colors with steel bracelets, the Spinnaker Cahill is an affordable choice that offers a lot of value and a cool look. An automatic Miyota 8125 movement with date, sapphire crystal, nicely textured dial and glass bezel make for a timepiece that looks great with casual wear. A water-resistance of 150m also makes the Cahill a watch you can beat up and not worry about.

Price: $350+

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Nodus Sector Pilot

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If you’re on the lookout for a mechanical pilot’s watch but want something contemporary, then the new Sector Pilot Blackbird from Nodus is for you. With its oversize crown, sector dial and count-up bezel, this watch is clearly made for the sky — but a clever day-date display means that it’s perfectly useful on the ground, as well.

Price: $425

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Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical


A reimagining of Hamilton’s military watches crafted for the U.S. Army, the Khaki Field Mechanical is a modern field watch built with classic mil-spec design cues. A hand-winding movement from ETA and a 24-hour dial help to retain the vintage design influence, while a 38mm case brings the watch firmly into the 21st century.

Price: $495

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Junghans Max Bill Hand-Winding


Max Bill was an iconic designer whose Bauhaus-influenced designs live on in the Junghans watches that bear his name. The hand-winding variant features a glossy dial with Arabic numerals, ETA 2801 hand-winding movement, 34mm stainless steel case and a black leather strap. Whether paired with a suit or with jeans and a t-shirt, this is a watch that never looks out of place.

Price: $690

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Watches Our Staff Want to See Made in 2021

Covering the watch market is largely reactionary, of course — watch companies make stuff, and then we write about it.

But not today. Today we’re going to imagine the watches we want to see, from thinner GMTs to chronograph versions of time-only watches we love and more. We fully realize that most of these watches will never see the light of day….and we don’t care! So here goes nothin:

The Unimatic U2-C Chronograph

watches we want to see in 2021
A photoshop mockup of what could be.

Gear Patrol

All day I dream, but today specifically I am dreaming big. I’m imagining a Unimatic U2 series field watch turned into a two-register chronograph, maybe even with a mechanical movement (remember: I am dreaming). The 38.5mm case is the perfect size and the unique UFO shape of the U2 would make it quite out of this world. –Hunter Kelley, Associate Designer

A 39mm x 12.5mm Tudor Black Bay GMT

watches we want to see in 2021

Tudor

(I know. I know.) But really: why not? They can do it. They have the technology. Why this obnoxiously thick, oversized case for such a cool watch? Why not just make it, you know — wearable. Everything else about it is perfect. Just shrink it. Put it in the Watch Shrinking Machine that I just know Rolex has in some dark Geneva vault beneath the Jet D’eau. -Oren Hartov, Associate Editor

A New Rolex Explorer

watches we want to see in 2021

Rolex

Not the Explorer II, but the Explorer. Rolex typically focuses on one line for its major releases each year, and the humble Explorer is due for an upgrade. It’s a chance not only to give it a more modern movement as other functionally identical watches have received, but some thoughtful tweaks would help it emerge from the shadows of its limelight-stealing siblings. I suggest a honeycomb dial like the first Explorer model had back in 1953. And keep the size exactly where it is at 39mm. It’s kind of a waste to have a great Rolex sport watch with a compelling story just sitting on the back shelf. -Zen Love, Staff Writer

A Full-Metal Casio A700W-1A

watches we want to see in 2021

Casio

Casio has a whole host of fun digital watches that are metal and another that merely look like it, but I’m still waiting — hoping, praying — for the true sweet spot to arrive. I dabbled with the World Time and its subpar spray-paint-silver resin before upgrading to the A700W-1A, which hides its resin behind a more convincing mirror finish and has some actual stainless steel….on the back. But resin is resin, and it dents and scratches no matter how nice it looks. Unfortunately, Casio’s main metal-case offerings like the A1000 and various all-metal G-Shocks don’t sport the same simple retro style I’m looking for. Please, just give me an all metal A700W-1A! I’ll pay handsomely! -Eric Limer, Editor

Iron Man Gauntlet Watch

watches we want to see in 2021

Marvel

I want Tony Stark’s nanotech watch seen in Captain America: Civil War. I’m not sure if it can tell time, but considering it’s bulletproof and can fire sonic bolts and blinding bursts of light to incapacitate super-soldiers…that seems like a sacrifice I can live with. -Will Sabel Courtney, Editor

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These Independent Craftsmen Represent the Pinnacle of Modern Watchmaking

We love our rugged dive watches and whatnot, but there’s more to watchmaking than handsome, everyday wrist gear: there’s also a world of incredible artistry. It’s worth paying attention to the top independent watchmakers, not necessarily from a consumer’s perspective (as these can get very expensive), but because they offer a way to appreciate the craftsmanship and intricate mechanics of watches more deeply.

If you have a mechanical watch that features a view of the movement through a case back window, take a second to look closely at the metal’s finishing and edges. Even the vast majority of mass-produced mechanical watch movements feature some type of aesthetic treatment like brushing, polishing or little overlapping circles called perlage. The more expensive your watch is, the more likely it’ll feature a higher level of decoration and a finer level of finishing — but there’s almost always going to be some compromise at some point.

Keep climbing in price and skill, however, and you’ll arrive at the realm of high-end watchmaking, tourbillons, exotic complications and skeletonized movements. At this level you’ll often find that every single component (even those inside the watch that you can’t see) has been individually hand-finished, requiring hundreds of hours of work by highly skilled hands. Major brands produce this kind of work as well, but independent watchmakers hold a special place in fans’ imaginations: they represent creative freedom and uncompromising visions that can be manifested both technically and artistically and result in anything from the traditional to the highly avant-garde.

There are, in fact, many fascinating individuals and small teams doing captivating work in watches, but the few below are some of the most notable names you’ll want to know if you’re new to high-end independent watchmaking. If watches intrigue you in this way, they’re well worth following.

F.P. Journe

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Mention independent watchmakers, and François-Paul Journe is one of the first names that many people will think of. In fact, this celebrated watchmaker has been successful enough to grow his brand, team and facilities (including a case maker and a dial maker), open boutiques and produce more watches. Chanel even bought a 20% stake in his company in 2018, but he remains representative of the high-end, independent watchmaking scene.

Journe stands out for his originality both technically and aesthetically. He’s known for esoteric and highly complicated watches that nonetheless also maintain a focus on precision. He’s surprised fans by introducing a sport watch line and a quartz watch, but he’s best known for applying unusual technical concepts (like the principle of natural resonance), complex features and movements that are hand-finished down to the last component.

Instagram: @fpjourneofficial

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Roger Smith

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Based on the English Isle of Man, Roger Smith produces about 12 watches per year. That’s because he’s trained in “The Daniels Method” of watchmaking in which one person conceives and crafts a single watch from start to finish — without the use of modern tech used by most watchmakers such as CNC machines. (He is the protege of the legendary horologist George Daniels who devised the Method.)

Needless to say, this type of watchmaking is extremely rare and captures the imagination of watchmaking fans as the ultimate expression of horological craftsmanship. Roger Smith now works with a small team, but his timepieces represent a certain ideal for fans of watchmaking. Though traditional, Smith (like Daniels) is also innovative and his works are incredible to behold.

Instagram: @rogerwsmithltd

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Laurent Ferrier

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After first glance at a watch made by Laurent Ferrier, you might say, “Yeah, that’s a really elegant dress watch.” It might not be apparent until you look more closely that his conservative designs and traditionalist approach hide craftsmanship comparable with that of the many showier watchmakers at this level. In terms of style, it’s unsurprising to learn that Ferrier worked for 30 years at the staunchly traditional and highly celebrated company Patek Philippe before founding his own brand, where he now works with his son.

What is somewhat unexpected, however, is to learn that Ferrier was a semi-professional race car driver in his youth — finishing third at the Le Mans race in 1979 (behind Paul Newman). This just gives the quiet watchmaker an extra shot of character, but the real interest lies in his watches, of course.

Instagram: @laurent_ferrier

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Konstantin Chaykin

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Even among the sometimes outrageous designs found among independent watchmakers, Konstantin Chaykin’s stand out. Based in St. Petersburg, the Russian watchmaker/inventor executes concepts that are wildly original, unexpected and sometimes downright bizarre. One example is a watch made to tell the time on Mars — where the length of days are slightly different to those on Earth (it also simultaneously shows two Earth time zones as well as the positioning of the two planets in relation to each other).

Chaykin seems motivated to produce an incredible variety of highly creative mechanical concepts. His already mind-blowing creations usually incorporate a further twist when you look more closely or learn how to use them. Chaykin’s most celebrated and recognized watch is one of his simplest: The Joker, in which two subdials form eyes, with hours and minutes respectively indicated by dots representing eyeballs, and a moon phase display forms the shape of a mouth with the moon in red made to look like a tongue.

Instagram: @k_chaykin

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Greubel Forsey

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The duo Robert Greubel and Steven Forsey have been called watchmakers’ watchmakers. This is meant to express that the brand’s level of finishing and technical sophistication can perhaps only be fully appreciated by fellow watchmakers, but it hasn’t stopped the brand from amassing many fans and collectors. The design and aesthetics of Greubel Forsey watches seem driven by technical features — a signature element being a case (and/or crystal) that looks like it’s been adapted to the movement, rather than the other way around as would be expected.

In actuality, these features function to highlight those technical elements. Greubel Forsey watches can be expected to incorporate a range of features and at least a prominent tourbillon — but these already complex mechanisms are made further complicated, for example, by producing them at tilted angles. The brand also recently announced a complicated watch that was notable for having been completely made by hand. The brand’s watches are also known for being stratospherically expensive and are produced in very limited quantities.

Instagram: @greubel.forsey

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Don’t Buy a Watch Without Considering This Important Factor

A watch’s focal point is its dial — you don’t want to worry about the glass you’ve got to peer through. And yet, the pros and cons of different varieties of watch crystals are endlessly debated by enthusiasts. More than just a practical concern, a good crystal can significantly impact the design, user experience and even of a watch in several ways.

You’d be forgiven for being confused by some of the technical details found in watches’ product descriptions regarding crystals. Is sapphire better because it’s more expensive than acrylic? What the hell is a “box” crystal, anyway? And should you care about any of that? If you’re buying a watch, the answer to the latter question is certainly a “yes.” The various materials, shapes and other aspects of watch crystals, however, require a bit more breakdown:

What Do You Need to Know About Watch Crystal Materials?

The most common types of watch crystal materials are acrylic, mineral and sapphire, and each has its benefits and tradeoffs. While their physical properties are undisputed, preferences can vary between sapphire and acrylic in particular.

Acrylic: Acrylic is a kind of plastic, also called Plexiglass, Hesalite and other names, and it’s the crystal material you’ll find on the majority of vintage watches. It scratches easily, but tends to crack rather than shatter, and this has led to some instances where it’s been preferred over sapphire: the logic is that a watch can remain functional with a cracked crystal but would be totally destroyed if the crystal were shattered. This is a reason you’ll find it used on some watches meant for rugged use, such as dive watches or, notably, the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch (Hesalite version).

Some collectors also prefer the look of acrylic for aesthetic reasons, citing its “luster” or “warmth” and the particular way it distorts around the edges. The other benefit of acrylic is that it’s inexpensive and can be easily shaped. While it indeed scratches easily, light scratches can be easily buffed out at home.

Mineral: Mineral crystal is formed from glass and hardening minerals, and it’s most common among the affordable end of watches, particularly those from the big Japanese companies. It’ll chip rather than shatter, and while mineral is more scratch-resistant than acrylic, it does scratch and the scratches can’t be easily buffed out. Seiko’s own version of mineral crystal called Hardlex is further hardened to improve scratch-resistance.

watch jargon crystal gear patrol

Rolex

Sapphire: The overwhelming choice for luxury and high-end watches, sapphire as used in watch crystals is a synthetic material (as opposed to the natural gemstone). One of the hardest materials on earth, it’s virtually impossible to scratch — an illustration of its scratch-resistance are the many flawless crystals which can be found on watches whose cases have been visibly beat up over the years. It also has impressive clarity, which can make the dial elements appear sharper and generally results in a clean, high-end feel.

When untreated with anti-reflective coating, however (more on that below), sapphire crystal can also be highly reflective, which is detrimental to legibility. Also, while other materials might crack or chip, sapphire can shatter — though it takes an extremely hard impact and is an uncommon occurrence.

The primary drawback of sapphire crystal is that it tends to be more expensive. It requires high-tech production, and its hardness makes it difficult to work with, especially in complicated shapes. With improved technology and growing sourcing options, however, more entry-level brands have begun to offer it and high-end brands have been able to do more with it, such as producing entire watch cases in sapphire.

What Are the Pros and Cons of Different Watch Crystal Shapes?

It’s not just the materials you want to consider: a crystal’s shape can make a big difference both for legibility as well as overall watch design and aesthetics. Domed and flat are the most common types you will find, but not all are created equal. Some models are more domed than others, and flat crystals can also feature a raised edge that makes them more visually interesting.

One of the most concrete examples of how a crystals shape can affect your experience is on dive watches: a domed crystal can make a dial go completely blank underwater when viewed at an angle, whereas flat crystals remain more legible. Flat crystals might offer better legibility in some situations, but they don’t offer the depth and elegance of curved ones.

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Henry Phillips

When evaluating a watch, you should always look for the ability to read the time easily from any angle in any situation. When a watch features, for example, a domed outer surface and flat inner surface, extreme visual distortions can occur. That’s why watch brands proudly advertise “double-domed” crystals, meaning both outer and inner surfaces are curved and will offer a clear view of the dial, even from angles.

An interesting type of crystal is what’s referred to as “box-shaped.” These are crystals which are prominently raised a couple millimeters above the bezel so its edges are easily visible. This is common among vintage watches that use acrylic crystals, but advancing technology has allowed more watchmakers to offer the shape executed in sapphire — negating the obvious problem that the protruding shape is an absolute scratch-magnet for acrylic crystals. A box crystal can add visual interest with its three-dimensional look as well as give modern watches a more vintage feel.

Watch Out for Reflections

Like every aspect of watches, you will find forum nerds debating the merits of something called anti-reflective (or “AR”) coating. Also used for things like eyeglasses, telescopes and other lenses, AR coating is most important in watches for glare-prone sapphire crystal. These coatings can reduce reflections as well as improve contrast, so what could possibly be wrong with that?

Coatings on sapphire crystals are mostly not very noticeable, but can become more apparent when scratched. There are different types of AR coatings used by different companies, and some are more easily scratched than others. To avoid unsightly scratches, some watchmakers only coat the underside of the crystal (which if left uncoated can reflect dial elements), but this is a compromise and can result in a noticeably reflective crystal. Some enthusiast also complain about the tint sometimes visible around the crystal’s edges or in reflections.

Whatever its materials, shape or other factors, a well made and nicely shaped crystal can be a pleasure in and of itself and elevate a watch. If all the above seems like a lot to consider when watch shopping, at the very least keep in mind to evaluate a crystal’s legibility when watch shopping.

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The Ultimate Guide to Military Watches

Your watch is cool, but how well will it serve you in a firefight or a sandstorm? Has it been to Helmand province in Afghanistan, the WWII battlefields or Viet Cong-controlled jungles of 1970s Vietnam? Would it withstand the rigors of an army base mess hall?

Military watches can be many things and have a wide-ranging history — far too varied and complex to easily fit a single definition or be sufficiently treated in a few paragraphs. That’s why we’ve gathered coverage of some of the best examples here, and you’ll find that what they tend to have in common are impressive specs and compelling stories.

From the vintage field watches of the 20th century’s big wars to today’s tactical watches, from dive watches for naval frogmen to pilot’s watches made for freezing cockpits, the watches below are each worthy of your attention.

21 of the Best Military Watches and Their Histories

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Analog / Shift

We examine some of world’s most famous military watches and delve into their origins, from the Fifty Fathoms to the MilSub and more.

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Out of Iraq: The Story of an Issued Military Watch

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A former Marine speaks about the Marathon TSAR he was issued while in the service and how he used it downrange.

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The 10 Best Field Watches

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Field watches should be reliable, legible and simple.

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We Field-Tested Two Military Watches in the Army and This is What We Found

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Hunter D. Kelley

Two field watches accompanied us into the actual field for some serious testing.

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What’s the Most Legit Modern Military Watch You Can Buy?

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Watches with serious specs and mean looks are plentiful, but modern military watches are quite different than issued ones of the past.

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These Are 10 of the Best Tactical Watches

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Chandler Bondurant

We explore what makes a watch “tactical” and pick out some of our favorites for actual use in the field.

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10 Important Military Watches from World War II

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Fellows Auctioneers

From the A-11 to the Panerai Radiomir to the little-known A.T.P, we explore the Second World War’s horological gems.

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Joys of the Cheap American Military Watch

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Hunter D. Kelley

They’re cheap, they’re plentiful, they were issued to genuine badasses — what’s not to like here?

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Elite Naval Commandos Wore This Vintage Military Watch in the 1970s

elite naval commandos wore this vintage military watch gear patrol lead full

Eterna

When the IDF’s Shayetet 13 needed a badass dive watch for special ops, it was the Eterna Super Kon-Tiki that delivered.

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The Fascinating and Humble History of the NATO Watch Strap

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Worn & wound

From military roots to modern style.

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The History of the Rolex Military Submariner

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HQ Milton

If the Rolex Submariner is the most famous dive watch, then the Rolex Military Submariner, or MilSub, is the most famous military-issued dive watch.

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This Is the Seiko Watch Made for Japanese Pilots During WWII

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Menta Watches

Known as the Seikosha Kamikaze, this obscure pilot’s watch has an incredible story to tell that forms a little-known facet of Seiko history.

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This Vintage Longines Is the Essence of the Purpose-Built, Time-Only Watch

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Theo & Harris

First released in the 1940s, the Longines “sei tacche” and “tre tacche” models epitomized functional design.

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This Serious Tool Watch Was Designed for a Special Tactical Unit

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Analog/Shift

The EZM 1 is emblematic of the function-first approach that’s won German brand Sinn its dedicated fans.

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This Watch Was Exactly What Pilots Needed in 1953

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Analog / Shift

The Glycine Airman was an initially made for commercial pilots but later became popular with US military pilots in the Vietnam and Korean wars.

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One of the Very Best Military Watches Is Back

hodinkee benerus

Hodinkee

The Benrus Type 1 was only ever available to military divers, commandos and spooks. Not anymore.

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These Are the Watches We’re Obsessing Over in January 2021

As watch lovers, we spend our afternoons poring over watches both new and vintage. When a new timepiece comes across our radar, one that particularly resonates with our tastes, we can’t help but obsess over it. So, here’s a taste of that process — four timepieces that our watch-loving staff are obsessing over right at this very moment.

Excelsior Park Oversized Chronograph

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If you’re familiar with Excelsior Park, it’s likely because you’ve seen examples of vintage chronographs (such as Zeniths) that used their movements. Well, occasionally you’ll find watches signed by EP itself, such as this stunner from the 1950s. Everything about this watch — from the case proportions, to the ultra-cool typeface to the clean look of the dial and the funky 45-minute counter — is just perfect to me. If I were in the mood for a chronograph that flew under the radar, I would spring for this thing. -Oren Hartov, Associate Editor

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Nivada Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver

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Since relaunching in 2020, Nivada has teased the rerelease of its vintage Chronomaster the whole time, but only actually announced it for sale recently. From what I can tell based on their newsletter and Instagram (which I’ve followed every step of the way), they’ve executed it really nicely. The details and features appear thoughtful, and the specs and sizing are just right — chronographs tend to be thick and chunky, but the Chronomaster’s 38.3mm diameter sounds delectable. I was surprised to learn that it’s priced under $2,000 and am pretty sure I’ll be smitten when I finally get to try one on. -Zen Love, Staff Writer

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Unimatic U4-A

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I blame our resident designer Hunter Kelley for introducing me to Unimatic, the boutique watch brand from Italy. The U4-A was released in December, but I missed scooping up one of the 500 that went on sale. However, for what I believe is the first time ever, Unimatic opened up a waitlist for the watch. The dial eschews numerals for dots and dashes that maintain a legibility that you don’t usually get from such a minimal timepiece. The oversized crown looks like it should have been a bezel, but it gives it the look of a GMT with a popped-off bezel (here’s to you, Brando), and it sure as hell lives up to its military inspiration. -Tyler Chin, Associate Staff Writer

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Baltic Aquascaphe GMT

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There is a direct correlation with me diving deep into watch-shopping mode and the general state of the world. Pandemic hits? Watch scrolling time. Police brutality? Check out that chronograph. Hometown threatened by a deadly wildfire? Let’s read more about some indie watch brands. Violent mob attacks the Capitol? The double-tap goes wild on Instagram watch accounts. The watch I’ve been ogling most while down here, head in the sand, has been this Aquascaphe GMT with the navy and orange bezel. My God, what a handsome watch. And given that I’ll likely never spend enough to get a new Rolex or any other high-end Swiss watch — the price on this feels pitch perfect. Maybe I’ll even get it after the Tsunami hits. -J.D. DiGiovanni, Associate Editor, Editorial Operations

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Omega Speedmaster 3861 Hesalite

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I’ve been pretty convinced for the last six or so years that it is a matter of time before I plunk down for a Speedmaster. Because I read every moon book, watched every moon documentary and even bought the Saturn V lego set, the watch will necessarily be as close to Armstrong Spec as possible with the constraint that I do not have 105.012 money (or the patience to find one that isn’t at least partially fake). The new Hesalite 3861, with its tastefully revised bracelet, solid case back and subtle dial changes over the outgoing 1861 should do just fine…at least until a solid case back 321 comes out. -Henry Phillips, Deputy Photo Editor

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The Ultimate Guide to Watches and Travel

There are plenty of good reasons to consider the watch you take traveling: the right timepiece offers a sense of preparedness in a relatively unfamiliar environment; it can become part of lasting memories; and, of course, you want to catch planes, make meetings on time and beat jet lag.

Since travel forces you to select only the few items you’ll be spending time with, you want to choose carefully. The right travel watch might be a dedicated tool with features specifically meant for tracking different time zones, one that’s rugged and ready for adventure, or just one that you love and want as a travel companion. In the coverage below, we’ve got all you need to know about the watches that are best for day trips or globetrotting, as well as the tips, tricks, gear and solutions that’ll enhance your excursions.

Travel is largely curtailed for many people around the world at the moment, of course, but we’re optimistically looking forward to the chance to get away again. The following articles and the cool watches featured will get you ready and inspired to get back out there as soon as it’s safe and responsible to do so.

These Are Our Favorite Adventure Watches of 2020

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From rugged dive watches to world timers, these are some of the timepieces we want to take adventuring in 2021.

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How to Pack and Travel with Your Watches

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Hunter D. Kelley

Let the watches you travel with enhance your memory-making and selfie-taking adventures.

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The Best Cases, Rolls and Pouches for Traveling With Your Watches

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Keep your beloved timepieces safe and orderly.

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One Simple Feature Makes These 3 Watches Perfect for Traveling

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A 12-hour rotating bezel is a handy way to track another time zone without the added cost of a GMT complication.

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The 11 Best Mechanical Watches to Wear When Traveling

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Farer

Whether you’re driving coast to coast or flying from JFK to Narita, here are the watches that will keep you on time.

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These Are Seven of the Most Affordable GMT Watches

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GMT watches needn’t be bank-breaking. From big Swiss companies and upstart microbrands, here are 7 affordable GMTs.

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Travel in Style with These Seven Incredible World Time Watches

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World time watches allow you to see the current time in any place in the world with just a quick glance at your wrist.

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What Makes Rolex’s GMT-Master The Best Travel Watch Ever?

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Rolex

This two-timer from the jet age is technically and aesthetically the mother of all GMT watches.

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What’s the Most Legit Modern Military Watch You Can Buy?

On a military base anywhere in the world, you’ll find a variety of watches on the wrists of personnel. What you probably won’t find is a watch that the government supplied to service people en masse, as was common in decades past. The compelling history of “issued” military watches is echoed in modern watches and marketing, but those worn by soldiers today have a very different story.

At one time, the military treated watches as any other necessary equipment and contracted out their production. Adhering to very exact specifications, many of the watches produced for military use in the 20th century have a special place in the imagination of collectors — after all, they had to be very well built, durable, accurate and practical. Soldiers were issued their kit, which included a wristwatch.

That situation makes the idea of a “military watch” easy to understand, but times have changed. While there are endless examples of watches with rugged specs and serious looks available today, soldiers mostly have to purchase their own. So if you want a modern watch with the same kind of official military links as the issued watches of old, what are the options?

Military regulations related to watches appear mostly concerned with how they fit into dress standards: they are tolerated, so long as they conform. For the US Marines, for example, “inconspicuous watches are authorized for wear in uniform,” while the US Navy Uniform Regulations flatly state, “While in uniform, wristwatches shall be conservative and in good taste. Eccentric or faddish watches are not authorized.”

Eccentric or faddish watches are not authorized.

While people often speak of “the military,” of course, there are many militaries in the world and many services, units, etc. in each, with their own rules and regulations. There are many different situations, and certainly some in which a watch might be required for some activities or prohibited for others.

When a brand claims that its watches are “used by” some elite tactical unit or another, this may very well be the case. Those soldiers can probably wear whatever watch they want, and they may have chosen one that’s particularly well suited to their work. Vague marketing, however, can lead consumers to imagine the kind of relationship that watch companies had decades ago with militaries. Those days are largely gone, but the “issued” watch remains a potent image in consumers’ minds.

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Omega

One way watch brands can show military affiliation is with official markings like the famous British “broad arrow” symbol, which was historically used to mark government property. Some examples of modern watches with the British broad arrow are the James Bond watch from Omega, homages of the Dirty Dozen field watches (the originals of which had the symbol) by the likes of Timor and Smiths, as well as even a Timex collab.

It’s illegal in the UK to sell goods with the broad arrow without specific authorization, but a brand can apply for permission to use government symbols through the UK Ministry of Defence Merchandising Programme — and it doesn’t seem too tightly restricted, as a number of modern watches available to the public feature it on their dials. However, these days, this doesn’t necessarily mean said watch is utilized in a military context.

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Going a step further, British brand Bremont has obtained permission to use the “signs, symbols and Heraldic Badges of all three services” of Her Majesty’s Armed Forces (army, navy and air force) and released a whole collection of military-themed watches featuring them engraved on the case backs. Bremont is also an example of a company that works with the military or military-related organizations and makes exclusive, bespoke watches for individual units, squadrons, etc. Other brands that make watches for military organizations include Luminox with its Navy SEALs Foundation collection or Nixon with its Regulus.

Companies that actually make watches under government contract are indeed rare, but there are some examples: CWC supplies the British Ministry of Defense, and specifically, “the CWC SBS watch is currently issued to Royal Marines, Royal Navy incl Sub crew.” French watchmaker Yema is said to be an official partner of the French Air Force.

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Another such company is Canada-based Marathon, which is an official United States General Services Administration contractor. Many Marathon watches have available dial options that include “US Government,” the Canadian maple leaf symbol, U.S. Marine Corps logo and the logo of the Israeli military’s Duvdevan and YAMAM units. The brand says that these watches are built to various militaries’ specifications and “issued” to personnel, but you can buy them, too. (Here’s a soldier’s testimony of using a Marathon TSAR on active duty.)

There are, however, plenty of other watches available with genuinely tough specs and also that mean military look. It’s well-known that many soldiers (as well as police and personnel in other such professions) choose the eminently durable, reliable and affordable G-Shock watches, particularly the 6900 series. Various brands also build modern watches to military specifications of the past, including companies that made issued watches historically. These and many others offer an experience that’s more than tough enough and certainly cool enough for civilian use.

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Seiko Partnered with Tokyo-Based Neighborhood on This New Automatic Dive Watch

There’s an easy and expected way to do a collab watch: take an off-the-shelf model and give it some fresh dial highlights and slap on the partnering brand’s name. But Seiko isn’t known for being lazy. The new Seiko x Neighborhood Prospex SBDY077 watch offers a novel combination of familiar elements from the Japanese brand’s famous dive watches for a fresh look incorporating an automatic movement, all at under $700.

Based on the case style referred to by fans as “tuna can” for its stout shape, Seiko has mixed in blocky hands and indices for a more vintage-oriented feel. This refresh is similar to how Seiko has treated other dive watch models recently, but the brand currently doesn’t offer another diver with quite this combination of features. The look is similar to certain recent Seiko Solar quartz dive watches, but the SBDY077 is powered by Seiko’s in-house 4R35 automatic movement.

Underneath the typical dial text indicating 200m of water resistance is the Japanese streetwear brand Neighborhood’s wordmark providing a splash of red. With a 43.2mm-wide, black-coated case, the Seiko Prospex SBDY077 is limited to 1,000 examples and will be available from the Neighborhood website from January 15, 2021, for the equivalent of around $660.

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Your Favorite Independent Watch Brands, in Their Own Words

Some of our favorite watchmakers are little more than one-man operations. Others might be a small team, but what they have in common is that many have built companies from scratch around their unique visions. They have freedom to think outside the box and make their ideas real, and their influence on the watch industry is more significant than many perhaps realize.

Independent watchmakers, startups, microbrands or whatever you’d like to call them have proliferated over the last decade. The convenience of sourcing parts and labor as well as the chance to connect directly with watch enthusiasts thanks to the internet has created new opportunities for ambitious entrepreneurs. Part of what characterizes many of these brands is their ability to avoid many costs that bigger, older brands often face and offer previously unheard-of values.

These indie brands are far from uniform, however: they range from one-man shops that make their own parts like Schon or Pelton to bigger/older companies with their own movements like Yema and Damasko. The people behind these companies have often incredible stories and insight.

Below, you can hear directly from the creators and designers at these brands. Whether you’re interested in understanding your favorite watchmaker’s background or getting some entrepreneurial wisdom, they’re all inspirational and well worth a read.

Schon Horology’s Ian Schon

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Schon Horology

We interview Ian Schon about what it means to maintain an artistic vision while single-handedly running a complex pen and watch manufacturing business.

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Yema’s Christopher Bôle

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Yema

French watchmaker Yema’s Managing Director discusses growing up with horology, in-house movements and more.

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Pelton’s Deni Mesanovic

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PELTON USA

Deni Mesanovic studied audio engineering, but his widespread interests lead to his designing watches, sunglasses, microphones and more.

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Eone’s Hyungsoo Kim

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Zen Love

Creator of a unique watch for the blind, Eone CEO Hyungsoo Kim discusses designing products for the disabled and how he built his company.

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Damasko’s Konrad Damasko

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Damasko

The founder of Damasko Watches discusses his approach to engineering, design and what makes a solid German tool watch.

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Monta’s Justin Kraudel

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We sat down with Justin Kraudel (right) to discuss Monta, the state of American watchmaking, and what’s next for the brand.

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MkII’s Bill Yao

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Mk. II makes modern versions of classic military watches long since unavailable.

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Unimatic’s Giovanni Moro

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UNIMATIC

Unimatic co-founder Giovanni Moro discusses his brand’s design philosophy, minimalism, and a certain pineapple-dwelling sea creature.

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Autodromo’s Bradley Price

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Andrew Connor

How a passion for cars fuels a beloved watch brand.

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Brew Watches’ Jonathan Ferrer

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We sat down with Jonathan Ferrer to discuss his roots, his design influences and why making an affordable watch is important.

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Ikepod’s Emmanuel Gueit

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Watch designer Emmanuel Gueit discusses his plans for the Ikepod watch revival.

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Halios’ Jason Lim

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We speak to the founder of Halios about his love of watches and why he isn’t necessarily trying to revolutionize timekeeping.

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Orion’s Nick Harris

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We speak with Nick Harris about his origins as a watchmaker, the state of his company, Orion, and taking on the big boy boutique brands.

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Oak & Oscar’s Chase Fancher

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Chicago-based Oak & Oscar is constantly innovating, delivering some of the finest watches to come from the microbrand movement.

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Nodus’ Wesley Kwok and Cullen Chen

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We sit down with Nodus Watches you two co-founders to get the inside scoop on their affordable wares.

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Lorier’s Lauren and Lorenzo Ortega

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Lauren and Lorenzo Ortega’s Lorier Watches is crafting some of the best values in mechanical tool watches in the U.S.

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Bravur’s Magnus Äppelryd

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Bravur

Swedish microbrand Bravur Watches’ co-founder Magnus Äppelryd talks about his design background, how Scandinavian design affects his watches, and more.

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Does Your Chronograph Watch Have This Mysterious Feature?

Welcome to Further Details, a recurring column where we investigate what purpose an oft-overlooked product element actually serves. This week: a chronograph watch’s 45-minute counter.

Once you learn to use a chronograph watch, its busy mix of dials, subdials, scales, hands and buttons provides genuine utility and makes perfect sense.

But not always: a certain breed of these stopwatch-equipped wristwatches have a feature that’s downright puzzling. Look closely at their subdials, and you’ll find that some chronographs offer the ability to time up to a very specific number: 45 minutes. Why?

Chronographs with 30 and 60-minute timers are intuitive and plentiful, so one would assume that the use of a 45-minute counter serves a particular function. Far from a rarity or anomaly, these 45-minute chronographs were, further, relatively common for many decades — and watchmakers don’t develop and mass-produce features without good reason. Despite proliferation, however, their purpose remains the subject of speculation.

Most hypotheses focus on practical applications rather than technical benefits. A prevalent theory is that it was meant for timing soccer halves, and the once-chairman of Audemars Piguet is said to have preferred the feature for this reason. (Though in Piguet’s case, he simply demarcated a 30-minute counter with a 45-minute mark.) That would be a reasonable use of the 45-minute counter, but developing special gearing for that purpose seems inefficient when chronographs accomplish the same thing simply by adding special dial markings to 30- or 60-minute counters, as in the AP example noted above. (That said, watchmakers have done crazier things.)

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There are also many examples of watches with 45-minute counters that don’t seem to have anything to do with soccer going back many decades from a range of brands — Breitling’s landmark No. 100 Chronographe-Compteur or the Universal Geneve Compur among them. Another possibility is that watchmakers simply wanted to offer more than 30 minutes while retaining decent legibility — as 60-minute counters with all those hashmarks crammed into a subdial can be hard to read. In the end, it’s likely a combination of factors.

Watch expert Eric Wind of Wind Vintage notes that while the purpose of 45-minute chronograph counters isn’t established, “part of the design of the counter demarcation may have had to do with the movement design and part of it may have had to do with the aesthetics of the register.” He also notes that watchmakers were known to modify movements to offer 45-minute rather than 30-minute counters, and this is often one of the best ways to determine the age of certain watches at a glance (for those with that level of deep knowledge).

Whatever the original purpose of the feature, some modern brands continue to go out of their way to offer it (though it’s uncommon today). For example, when Tudor used Breitling’s in-house B01 movement in its Black Bay Chrono, it modified it in several ways, including swapping a 30-minute counter for a 45-minute one and rechristening the movement the MT5813 (they also removed the hour totalizer, as multiples of 45 minutes just wouldn’t add up, of course). Other examples include modification of ETA’s popular 7750 by brands like Ball.

Chalk the mysterious 45-minute chronograph counter up to yet another quirky detail that makes watches fascinating and fun. You can happily time events and enjoy your chronograph without giving it a thought or even noticing — and most people probably do — but if your watch has this feature, timing a soccer half or other 45-minute activity just feels like you’re getting the most from it.

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Who Owns Your Favorite Watch Brand?

Family-owned watch companies run by successive generations of artisan watchmakers are rare today. There are exceptions, but most historic watch brands you can probably think of belong to one of a few big corporate groups. Understanding how watch companies are related and the resources they share will help put your favorite brand into perspective next time you buy a watch.

What does it mean when you buy a Hamilton Khaki Field or an Omega Speedmaster — are you buying something from that brand itself, or from a faceless conglomerate? Though there are complicated business relationships involved, it’s possible to understand a large chunk of the watch industry by looking at its major groups: The Swatch Group, Richemont and LVMH.

Is Being Part of a Group Good or Bad?

Some watch fans worry that when previously independent brands are acquired it’ll mean a top-down, profit-driven new approach — and the end of the brand’s individual vision and creativity. The company might be restricted to the particular market segment that benefits the parent company’s strategy. This can happen and is sometimes felt in marketing and product development, but each situation is unique: the degree to which a brand retains its independence depends upon a number of factors.

If a watchmaker is in financial trouble due to ineffective management, a big group stepping in with capital and new management can save it from disappearing completely. Many of the brands that belong to groups today could be considered lucky for having survived the Quartz Crisis, as many others didn’t. At the same time, there are major benefits to joining a group, including shared resources.

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An ETA 2824-2 automatic movement — an industry workhorse.

Time Connection Inc.

For example, while ETA movements (like the common 2824-2) are used across the watch industry, it’s mostly been Swatch Group companies that have benefited from a new generation that’s been improved in various ways, including by the addition of extended power reserves. R&D into materials like ceramic might also be shared, and brands that are good at making watches but less talented at marketing, e-commerce and web design can also get the expertise they need.

The image of an old watchmaker patiently assembling watches by hand with a snowy Alpine backdrop is only partially accurate. It’s part of a larger picture in which watch companies need to survive and compete, in some cases leading to products you like and in other cases, perhaps not. In the end, the group structures are a major (perhaps necessary) force in the ever-evolving watch industry, and understanding their influence might help you appreciate your favorite brand more.

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Gear Patrol

Brands

First, don’t be confused, as the maker of affordable plastic watches called Swatch is but one brand under the umbrella of the larger Swatch Group. The Swatch Group consists of many entities, from its consumer-facing watch brands to the companies that support them in various ways. As of 2020, there are about 17 (active) brands under the Swatch Group producing watches and jewelry, and they span everything from affordable fashion accessories to esoteric, high-end horology. Unlike Richemont and LVMH, the Swatch Group’s products are primarily watches.

At the upper tiers are Breguet, Harry Winston, Blancpain, Jaquet Droz, Glashütte Original and Omega. These companies develop and build many of their own components, including movements. Their products range from luxury tool watches like Omega’s Speedmaster to complicated and expensive artistic creations with the likes of tourbillons from Breguet.

The mid-tier brands, Longines, Rado and Union Glashütte, use sourced movements from sister company ETA but sometimes develop their own technology and offer a high level of fit and finish with refined details. Entry-level luxury is represented by Hamilton, Tissot, Mido and Certina, using ETA movements, luxury materials like sapphire crystal and solid construction, all while staying reasonably affordable. Finally, the brands Swatch, Flik Flak and Calvin Klein can be considered makers of inexpensive “fashion watches.”

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The Sistem51 HODINKEE Generation 1990 — an automatic watch from Swatch.

HODINKEE

In addition to the names above which you will find proudly emblazoned on watch dials, there are even more companies involved in various aspects of production behind the scenes. The most recognizable (for watch nerds, at least) are ETA, the prolific maker of movements found in watches from the Swatch Group brands and many more, and Nivarox, a company that specializes in producing escapement parts including hairsprings.

There are then many more companies that even hardcore watch enthusiasts haven’t heard of producing the likes of cases, dials and hands, as well as companies that specialize in materials or specific parts such as crowns and pushers. Finally, there are segments for corporate management, distribution companies and even museums — it’s a massive organization.

Background

The first quartz watch was introduced in 1969, and by the 1980s competition from the likes of Seiko with accurate, affordable, mass-produced, often plastic-cased quartz watches was set to kill the Swiss watch industry. Some call this the Quartz Revolution, but in Switzerland it’s known as the Quartz Crisis.

The solution was two-pronged: first, Switzerland’s entire watch industry needed to be restructured for efficiency; and second, the Swiss needed to compete at the lower end of the price spectrum with an answer to cheap quartz watches “for the masses.” To execute this latter strategy, Swatch was created in 1983, and it continues to make playful, often plastic, design-driven watches today.

The watch industry in Switzerland at that time consisted of hundreds of companies, but there were two groups that owned many of the prominent brands and the movement maker ETA. Merging these groups in 1983 would create the conglomerate that was eventually (in 1998) renamed the Swatch Group. It worked: this plan is often credited with “saving” the Swiss watch industry. Nicholas Hayek was the man largely responsible for it, and his son Nick Hayek Jr. is the Swatch Group’s CEO today.

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Gear Patrol

Brands

Richemont’s wares are more diverse than just watches and include a range of other luxury goods. With prestigious and important names in horology, however, they are a major watch industry force, and the 11 Richemont watch brands are overall weighted toward the higher-end. A. Lange & Söhne and Vacheron Constantin, for example, are two of the most prestigious watchmakers in the world, and Roger Dubuis focuses on bold, technical watches starting well into five figure prices.

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An iconic pilot’s watch design from IWC.

IWC

Panerai, Jaeger-LeCoultre, IWC and Cartier are historic watchmakers that offer robust collections for each important watch genre in the mid-range luxury segment. Montblanc and Baume & Mercier begin with price points above entry-level luxury but offer the most accessible watches from the Richemont Group. Each of these brands has in-house movements and also dabbles in more technical or artistic watchmaking, which is the primary focus of watches from Piaget and jeweler Van Cleef & Arpels.

Background

The Richemont company was founded in 1988 as a spinoff from diverse holdings owned by South African billionaire Anton Rupert. The real story of the Richemont group’s watch brands, however, starts with Cartier. Investors in Cartier had begun consolidating its businesses and then buying up other watchmakers and luxury brands, eventually forming the Vendôme Luxury Group. Richemont bought out other stakeholders, acquiring complete control and dissolving Vendôme in 1998. Then, in 2000, the conglomerate acquired Les Manufactures Horologes, adding A. Lange & Söhne, IWC and Jaeger-LeCoultre to its stable.

The Rupert family still controls Richemont with Anton’s son Johann as the current chairman. The company’s role in the watch industry has grown since major watch trade show Baselworld declined and Richemont’s own event called Watches & Wonders (formerly SIHH) expanded significantly.

big watch group brands

Gear Patrol

Brands

Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy, more commonly known as LVMH, is the top luxury goods company in the world in terms of sales, according to Deloitte. There are around 75 brands under its diverse umbrella producing everything from whisky to leather shoes and bags to yachts (and much more), and only a handful of watchmakers — but they are important, highly visible watchmakers.

Watches at LVMH can be best understood in terms of two groups: there are companies that are primarily watchmakers, and companies that are mostly known for other luxury goods but which are also important players in the watch industry. Those specializing in watches are Hublot, Zenith and TAG Heuer, each of which is positioned at a different price point but which together reflect direction from the corporate parent with similar approaches (more on that below). Broadly speaking, Hublot is focused more on the higher-end; Zenith competes strongly in the mid-range luxury segment; and TAG Heuer’s average price point tends to be lower than Zenith’s but above “entry-level luxury.”

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The wildly futuristic Octo Finissimo Chronograph Skeleton Automatic from Bulgari.

Bulgari

Bulgari and LVMH’s namesake Louis Vuitton are commonly associated with jewelry or leather goods and other products, but both are also serious watchmakers. Both make watches that range from relatively accessible and design/fashion oriented to high-end, innovative and often esoteric horology. Bulgari also benefits from owning the rights to prestigious watchmaking brands Gerald Genta and Daniel Roth.

Background

LVMH was founded in 1987, but the story of its modern watches largely revolves around one man: Jean-Claude Biver. Responsible for successful business turnarounds at Blancpain and Omega through marketing initiatives such as product placement and celebrity endorsements, Biver took his approach to Hublot in 2004. The brand became synonymous with partnerships, glitzy brand ambassadors, material innovation and sporty, ultra-aggressive styles. It also sold a lot of watches.

Biver became president of LVMH’s watchmaking division in 2014 (and interim CEO of TAG Heuer). His touch is evident in certain collections of Zenith and TAG Heuer in which one finds hyper-modern, often skeletonized sport watches. TAG Heuer’s aggressive marketing and product development mirror’s Hublot’s in this way, but balances its edgy, youth-oriented watches with vintage-inspired models in a similar manner to Zenith.

While Louis Vuitton and Bulgari mostly don’t fit into the same patterns as those above — in part because they are in LVMH’s fashion and leather goods division — Louis Vuitton offers a smartwatch using Google’s Wear OS, just as Hublot and TAG Heuer do.

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Just When You Thought the Omega Speedmaster Couldn’t Get Better, It Did

You don’t want to mess too much with something as iconic as the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch. And yet, it was inevitable: just announced, the watch’s movement is getting its first major upgrade in decades. Is this still the same Moonwatch everybody knows and loves, only better? In many ways, yes — but it also comes with a price hike.

Perhaps even more than most watches, the movement inside the Speedmaster is an important part of its appeal. That’s because Omega offers more than just the looks of the watch worn by the astronauts, but the technical features that helped pass NASA’s stringent tests. The movement now powering the Moonwatch is called the 3861 and it looks nearly identical to the 1861 it replaces, but includes some notable upgrades.

First introduced in 2019 in a solid gold Speedmaster, watch fans expected that the 3861 would eventually trickle down to the standard production models as it’s now done. It’s still a hand-wound movement with a similar power reserve (now 50 hours rather than 48) as the 1861 —it even looks nearly identical, for those who look closely at such things — but with some important upgrades.

The improvements are summarized in the movement’s designation as “Co-Axial Master Chronometer.” What is that? The Co-Axial escapement is Omega’s celebrated movement technology that features in its best watches (more on that in our complete buying guide to Omega watches), and Master Chronometer means it’s passed the brand’s own, very stringent tests. In other words, it’s some of the best movement technology Omega offers.

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Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 3861 manually wound movement.

Omega

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The “step dial” is a tribute to early versions.

Omega

The improvements further include a silicon hairspring, which helps achieve resistance to magnetic fields to around 15,000 gauss (useful in a spaceship, for sure). What fans intimately familiar with the Moonwatch will notice in their daily lives is that the new movement offers a “hacking” feature to help set the time more precisely, which the outgoing 1861 lacked.

These are certainly nerdy, technical details, but they’re important to the enthusiast community that the Moonwatch is largely geared toward. For the new watch models that include the 3861 movement, Omega also included certain subtle details to please that crowd and differentiate the new models from the last generation. They include indented “step” subdials and design touches that refer to early “space era” Speedmaster watches like the placement of dots on the bezel in relation to their numbers (70 and 90, specifically). The steel bracelet option has also been given a design refresh, and now features five links per row for a more comfortable wearing experience. (The version that comes with the Hesalite crystal model features matte-finished center links, while these are polished on the sapphire crystal model.)

One of the biggest changes in the new Moonwatch, however, isn’t technical or aesthetic — rather, it’s in its price. Part of the Speedmaster’s appeal has long been that its cost seems very reasonable for all that it offers. It’s expected that improvements would entail a premium, but the outgoing watches were easy to mentally round down to around $5k in their most basic configuration — whereas the new versions with Hesalite (plastic) crystals start at $5,950 on a strap and cost $6,300 for the bracelet version.

Other versions will cost more with a sapphire crystal and exhibition case back to view the movement. There are even 18k (Canopus and Sedna) gold versions for significantly more (read: $35,000+ more). Any way you look at it, the steel version is still a hell of a watch for the money.

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