All posts in “Watches”

IWC Just Brought Back a Cult Classic Watch from the 1990s

Back in 1994, black ceramic watches were still a novelty. So when IWC released a special version of their Fliegerchronograph in the stealthy material, it actually didn’t sell particularly well; in fact, it was discontinued after roughly 1,000 pieces. However, collectors soon began to take notice of this unique creation — so when you find one of the original ref. 3705 “Ceramic Fliegerchronograph” watches floating around in 2021, they trade for tens of thousands of dollars.

Since the early 1990s, however, IWC has vastly expanded its manufacturing capabilities in the realm of special materials. As a result, this year, it’s releasing a special Tribute to 3705 in black Ceratanium (ref. 387905), powered by the in-house IWC cal. 69380 movement in place of the Valjoux 7750.

Limited to 1,000 pieces, it features a replicated dial from the original watch with a triple-register layout: a 30-minute counter at 12 o’clock, a 12-hour counter at 9 o’clock, and a running seconds counter at 6 o’clock. The original 3705’s day-date display at 3 o’clock is also present on the new timepiece.

The watch’s case, chronograph pushers and the strap’s pin buckle are each made of Ceratanium, which necessitates a unique manufacturing process: the components are manufactured from a titanium alloy and then treated in a furnace, during which a special transformation takes place that gives the materials ceramic-like properties. Light and robust like titanium and highly scratch-resistant and dark like ceramic, Ceratanium is just one of several innovative new materials that have changed the face of watchmaking over the last decade.

Powering the new Tribute is the IWC in-house cal. 69380, a column-wheel design with a power reserve of 46 hours. Taken as a whole, the Ceratanium construction with the in-house movement make this a tremendously special watch. Of course, this kind of innovation and quality doesn’t come cheap: shipping on a black calfskin strap and limited to 1,000 pieces, the new 3705 is available on IWC’s website for $11,900.

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Iconic Watch Hand Designs and the Watches They Look Best On

New dial color, different case material, celebrity endorsement… This is often all it takes to create a new watch and announce it with fanfare, even when little else has changed from existing models. You never see brands get very excited about, say, a new set of hands. And yet, a watch’s hands are critical to its functionality and successful design — more so than you may realize.

Stop and recall the most iconic watches you can think of: their hands are most likely distinctive and such a cohesive part of the larger design that you could probably identify the watch based on them alone. Hands are not only integral to a watch’s design, but they are delicate, refined components that often require specialized skills to produce which even large watch companies need to outsource.

While watch hands never grab the headlines, you will hear hand designs discussed by enthusiasts, who will often refer to archetypal shapes with specific names. As these are mostly nicknames, not everyone agrees on what certain watch hands should be called, and many unique designs have no set name. Whether you’re researching your next purchase or just want to hang on the watch internet, though, it’s good to know the basics. Here’s a rundown of the most common and traditional types of watch hands and what they’re called.

Alpha

alpha watch hand on parmigiani

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“Alpha” hands are like elongated arrows with narrow stems as bases, the shape of which is versatile and can be appropriate for formal or sporty watches alike. The wide part of the arrow offers space to add luminescent paint or skeletonization. People may disagree on whether “alpha” or “lance” is correct for certain examples.

Example watch: Parmigiani Tonda GT
Price: $14,500

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Baton

baton watch hand on audemars piguet

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The term “baton hands” is sometimes used interchangeably with “stick hands” (see below). The former, however, has a looser definition, covering examples like the famous Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. Baton hands can describe generally long, straight designs which tend to be thicker than stick hands and which can accommodate lume and sportier applications.

Example watch: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding
Price: $22,900

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Breguet

breguet watch hand

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Breguet hands were invented by Abraham-Louis Breguet in the 18th century. Note that they are not merely stems with loops near the tips: the loops are thinner toward the end, forming a sort of crescent shape, and the tip’s base is wider than the stem. Many brands other than Breguet use this style today.

Example watch: Breguet Classique 5157
Price: $18,800

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Cathedral

cathedral watch hand on oris

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Probably named for the segmented sections reminiscent of churches’ stained glass windows, this stately type of watch hands was popular in the early 20th century but is still used here and there. Though elegant in nature, these hands tend to feature on vintage-styled military and pilot watches.

Example watch: Oris Big Crown Pointer Date
Price: $1,750

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Dauphine

dauphine watch hand on seiko

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One of the most natural and popular hand shapes, dauphine hands are deceptively simple-looking. Long and pointy on one end (and short and pointy on the other), they are usually faceted to catch light for better legibility, as their narrow tips leave little room for luminescent paint. Their proportions also need to be carefully designed in order to keep the hour and minute hands easily distinguishable.

Example watch: Grand Seiko Heritage Seasons SBGA427
Price: $5,000

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Leaf

leaf watch hand on montblanc

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This descriptively named shape fits well on formally or elegantly styled watches and doesn’t easily take lume. The hands often have subtly rounded edges or facets like the dauphine. The French word for “leaf,” feuille, is also used for this design.

Example watch: Montblanc Star Legacy Full Calendar
Price: $4,800

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Lollipop

lollipop watch hand on timex

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This shape usually refers to seconds hands only. Like the candy on a stick they’re named after, the design is a long stem with a round tip, usually lume-filled. They’re often found on sporty and retro-themed watches.

Example watch: Timex Mk1
Price: $185

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Mercedes

mercedes watch hand on rolex

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This handset includes an hour hand with a circular motif composed of three equal segments which, along with the stem and tip, are filled with luminescent paint — the circle being reminiscent of carmaker Mercedes-Benz’s logo. (There’s likely no credence to the speculation that this name is related to the athlete Mercedes Gleitze who swam across the English Channel in 1932 wearing one of Rolex’s early water-resistant watches.) The design is so closely associated with Rolex, however, no brand can use it without inviting comparison.

Example watch: Rolex Submariner Date
Price: $9,550

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Snowflake

snowflake watch hand on tudor

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Like the Mercedes, this distinctive design is defined by the hour hand, which in this case features a large diamond shape near the tip. Designs such as the snowflake and Mercedes make the hour hand easily distinguishable from the minute hand and often have origins in dive watches where legibility is emphasized — and that is true of the snowflake as well. Not particularly intuitive or descriptive of its shape, the origin of the “snowflake” name is unclear. Primarily associated with (Rolex-owned) Tudor watches, it’s aesthetically controversial but also instantly recognizable.

Example watch: Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight
Price: $3,375

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Stick

stick watch hand on hamilton

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Descriptively named, these are about the most simple straight line shapes you can imagine. They’re typically thin and don’t accommodate much luminescent paint, making them primarily used on minimal and dressy watches.

Example watch: Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto
Price: $845

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Syringe

syringe watch hand on sinn

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A syringe might not be the first image this shape suggests to everyone who sees it, but the name makes sense. A wide base allows for plenty of luminescent paint, while the tips extend to their markers for precise reading and setting. The needle-like ends also open up the dial and prevent thick hands from visually taking over.

Example watch: Sinn U50
Price: $2,430

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Titanium Brings This Vintage-Style Chronograph Into the Modern Era

When Longines announced it would be whipping up a remake of its “BigEye” chronograph a couple years ago, it was styled with an appropriate vintage look. But this is 2021, and the time has come for change. The new Longines Avigation BigEye (named for its extra-large subdial) has a sleek modern feel thanks to its new aesthetic — but it’s a titanium case that makes this version much more than just a new dial color.

Titanium doesn’t just give a watch a lighter wrist presence, but it can also bring a technical feel that can make it more interesting. For Longines’s BigEye, it’s both the titanium case and the faded blue dial that moves it a further step away from its pragmatic military roots. Its 41mm case isn’t overly large, and titanium should help it wear even more comfortably. (Still, it’d be cool to see it match the size of more recent vintage-themed chronographs that come in at under 40mm.)

Of course, its automatic movement is also fully modern — based on the ETA A08.L01, it offers a power reserve of 54 hours. It also boasts a feature considered premium and desirable for its smooth chronograph operation: a column wheel.

Products like the new BigEye reflect an interesting approach to the vintage re-release trend: some brands have taken the route of releasing a faithful recreation of a vintage watch but subsequently following up with creative new variations on that take the underlying design in a whole new direction. Zenith’s Chronomaster Revival is an interesting example, and Seiko has taken a similar approach.

So far, Longines has not released the titanium Avigation BigEye in the United States, but we hope to see it soon — and of course, you can order it from abroad if it’s not yet available in your country. In addition to being hard and lightweight, titanium also means a significant price premium: at well over $1,000 more than its steel version, this cool titanium chronograph will cost you around ~$4,200.

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The Best Vintage Military Watches to Collect Under $5,000

Military watches, for obvious reasons, are some of the most interesting timepieces to study and collect: they have serious history behind them, they’re robust and well made, and their utilitarian, straightforward nature ironically often leads to naturally attractive designs.

Prices on vintage, issued military watches very much runs the gamut — you can pay $200 for a WWII-era, American-made A-11, or you can pay $200,000 for a Rolex “Milsub” issued to the Royal Navy in the 1970s. Because of this, we’ve decided to focus this guide on timepieces that’ll run you less than $5,000. A further constraint, however, is that we’ve elected to focus on pieces 34mm and larger, as watches like the A-11, cool as they are, are quite small even for the small-wristed among us (think ~32mm).

Of course, keep in mind that vintage issued watches such as these are going to need service more frequently than modern watches with modern movements in them that use synthetic oils, automatic winding, etc, so factor those costs into your purchasing decision. Still, there’s nothing cooler than the knowledge that someone long ago wore your watch into a dangerous place in order to blow shit up.

(…or wore it in the mess hall while he spooned rice and beans onto plates for 12 hours a day, but the mystery is part of the attraction.)

CWC G10

cwc g10 watch

Mr Jones Watches

One of the best bargains in (fairly) modern military watches, the Cabot Watch Company G10 was produced in huge quantities for British military personnel, and is in fact still being produced today in slightly updated form. The originals were made between 1980 and the early 2000s and feature a 36mm steel case with a quartz movement, battery hatch, a matte black tritium dial, fixed spring bars, and an acrylic crystal. Though they’ve appreciated somewhat in price over the past few years, you can find them all day long for under $500.

Diameter: 36mm

Movement: Swiss-made quartz

Price: $250-$500

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MIL-W-46374 and GG-W-113

mil w 46374 and gg w 113 watch

Analog / Shift

Thin, handwound, highly legible, and largely American-made, both the MIL-W-46374 and the GG-W-113 (variations on a theme that were updated from the 1960s through the 1990s) are perfect entry-level military watches. Unfortunately, though gone are the days when you could nab one for under $200, you can still find gobs of them on eBay for about $500 — which, in the world of issued watches, is still on the inexpensive side. Just understand that some of them aren’t made to be serviced, so maybe look for a later model with a screw-back case and a more modern movement, such as the MIL-W-46374D.

Diameter: 34mm

Movement: Various hand-wound mechanical

Price Range: ~$500

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Marathon/ADANAC Navigator’s Watch

marathon adanac navigators watch

Craft + Tailored

Though Marathon still makes a super cool, composite-cased Navigator watch, back in the late 1980s and early 1990s, they manufactured one out of steel. (Cases were manufactured by Gallet, and some models were signed “ADANAC” — “CADADA” backwards — while others, which used tritium tubes on the dial, were signed “Marathon.”) These watches feature a rotating 12-hour bezel, a screw-down crown and a tough quartz movement, as well as an easy-access battery hatch. For under $1,000, it’s a hell of a cool piece.

Diameter: 43.8mm

Movement: Swiss-made quartz

Price: ~$800

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The Dirty Dozen

the dirty dozen watch

Analog / Shift

Manufactured by — you guess it — twelve brands and delivered in late 1945, the “Dirty Dozen” watches (officially designated “Watch. Wrist. Waterproof”) are some of the coolest timepieces to emerge from WWII. Though few, if any, probably saw any action, they still make for great examples of function-first engineering, and one of the most plentiful, made by Cyma, is thankfully also one of the most robust, with a stainless steel 38mm case. Handwound with black dials, the Dirty Dozen ooze military cool, especially on a green NATO strap.

Diameter: 35-38mm

Movement: Various handwound mechanical

Price Range: $1,000-$5,000

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Smiths W10

smiths w10 watch

Analog / Shift

This watch is as British as afternoon tea, but has stronger masculine overtones. Built by Smiths, the famed British clock and watchmaker of Mt. Everest fame, the W10 was produced in the 1960s and 1970s with an in-house, handwound movement made in England. Measuring 35mm in diameter and featuring an anti-magnetic dust cover, a tritium dial, fixed spring bars and the “broad arrow” signature, it was made for both the Army and the Royal Air Force, which are marked “6B” on the case back. Though you can no longer find them for under $1k (sigh), you can easily find them for about $2,500 in condition.

Diameter: 35mm

Movement: Smiths cal. 60466E handwound

Price: ~$2,500

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Monopusher Chronographs

monopusher chronographs watch

Analog / Shift

Though there are several kinds of vintage military monopusher chronographs (chronographs that utilize one pusher for start, stop and rest rather than two), we’re referring here to those first produced for the British MoD in the 1940s/1950s by Lemania, Breitling, and Rodania. Sized at a very modern 38.5mm and outfitted with Lemania handwound movements, these insanely cool chronos were issued to RAF pilots, sailors and submariners in the Royal Navy. (Just keep in mind that servicing them won’t be cheap.)

Diameter: 38.5mm

Movement: Lemania cal. 15 CHT handwound

Price Range: $3,000-$6,000 (can be found for sub-$5k)

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Angelus Cal. 215 Legi Ero Chronograph

angelus cal 215 legi ero chronograph

Analog / Shift

This is definitely a “watch guy’s watch.” Produced in the 1950s for the Hungarian Air Force, these chronographs featured Angelus’s well regarded caliber 215 handwound movement in an oversized, 38mm steel case. With their gorgeous, gilded dials in bi-compax (two sub-register) layout, military signature on the case back (“L.E.” stand for legi ero, or “air force”), in-house movement and modern proportions, these are some of the best values in midcentury military watches. While service may be costly, the fact that these can be had for under $5k, given today’s market, is remarkable.

Diameter: 38mm

Movement: Angelus cal. 215 handwound

Price: $4,000-$6,000 (can be found for sub-$5k)

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Affordable Alternatives to the Most Iconic Watches Ever

Despite the liberal use of the term in marketing, only a small number of watches qualify as genuinely “iconic.” Though many of those were born of practicality, they’re inevitably luxury items today with status and prestige linked to their price tags. They might be worth saving up for, but what if the name on the dial is less important to you than a satisfying watch-wearing experience?

The good news is that those covetable classics have had outsized influence on the industry. Many watchmakers have outright tried to cop the style of iconic watches, while others have learned from their success and integrated their lessons in subtler ways. In other words, there are some good options out there offering similar looks or features that don’t cost as much as the classics.

The Rolex Submariner, Omega Speedmaster, Cartier Tank… below you’ll find great alternatives to these and more classic watches to scratch your itch or hold you off while you fill those penny jars.

Rolex Submariner

want this get this rolex sub gear patrol lead full

Rolex

Three dive watches offer handsome, versatile and strong-value alternatives to the most iconic watch of all time.

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Omega Speedmaster

want this get this omega speedmaster gear patrol lead full

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Watches from Bulova, Farer and Bell & Ross offer a similar look and versatile appeal of the Speedy for far less money.

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Cartier Tank

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Three dress watches offer alternatives to the Cartier Tank experience, with classic looks that stand out among so many round watches.

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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

want this get this audemar piguet maurice lacroix

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Watches from Tutima, Maurice Lacroix and Dietrich offer compelling alternatives the watch that defined the integrated-bracelet, steel-luxury-watch look.

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Rolex Cosmograph Daytona

want this get this rolex daytona gear patrol lead full

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These three handsome chronograph watches offer attractive alternatives to the classic Rolex Daytona.

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Rolex GMT Master II

rolex gmt master ii with dual colored dial

Rolex

Watches from Timex, Baltic and Tudor offer the distinctive bicolor-bezel look you’re after.

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Patek Philippe Calatrava

wtgt patek

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The Calatrava is perhaps the platonic ideal of the dress watch — but they ain’t cheap. Here are a few watches with a similar look for much less scratch.

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How Does a Crooked Watch Dial Make You a Better Driver?

Behind the wheel, there are times that require intense concentration and your hands firmly at ten and two. If you’re a race car driver, you might not even want to turn your wrist to check the time. It’s this specific situation that justifies the somewhat odd-looking but very purposeful design of what’s known as a driver’s watch, and which has led to some of the funkiest watch designs ever made.

Chronographs made for motorsports timing and watches with racing themes for car enthusiasts are plentiful, but most don’t qualify as “driver’s watches” in the stricter sense. What defines this niche genre is a dial that, in some way or another, is oriented to face the wearer while his or her hands remain on the steering wheel. However, there are multiple approaches to accomplishing this:

The first is via a watch with a rotated dial orientation, so that the 12 o’clock marker is where 1:30 or 3 o’clock would normally be — resulting in a quirky asymmetric look compared to that of most watches. Taking the concept even further, however, there are driver’s watches in which, rather than being parallel to the case, the dial’s plane is actually tilted up at the 12 o’clock side for easier viewing. There are even watches with the dial situated more or less parallel to the side of the wrist.

Despite their seemingly eccentric design, these watches’ offbeat looks makes them purposeful and interesting. Driver’s watches were more common decades ago, and some were intended to be worn under the wrist (an example is the Omega Chronostop). They are rare today, but there have been reissues as part of the general trend of vintage-inspired styles, and some brands even offer a modern take on this largely forgotten concept. Take a look at some below.

Seiko x Giugiaro Speed Master

seiko x giugiaro speed master silver watch

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The Seiko x Giugiaro collab watches are all automotive-themed, and over the years many have used the driver’s watch concept. They’re some of the funkiest ever from Seiko (and that’s saying something), but somehow very cool, and this most recently reissued Speed Master model from 2018 is a good example.

Diameter: 39.4mm
Movement: Quartz
Price: ~$370
Manufacturer info: seikowatches.com

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Bolido Pure

bolido pure watch with black straps

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You probably wouldn’t know from looking at a Bolido watch head-on that its case is thicker toward 12 o’clock and that its dial tilts down toward the wearer. Bolido is a young, independent brand specializing in watches of this style, and offers one of the few such examples that are relatively affordable considering their Swiss Made designation and automatic movements.

Diameter: 43mm+
Movement: STP 1-11 automatic
Price: $745+
Manufacturer info: bolido.rocks

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The Longines Avigation Watch Type A-7 1935

the longines avigation watch type a 7 1935

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Based on a watch made for the military in the 1930s, the Longines Avigation Watch Type A-7 1935 has a tilted dial for the same reason that your standard driver’s watch has one: to make it easy to read with hands on controls. It’s meant for pilots rather than automobiles, but we’ll let it slide for our purposes cause it’s neat.

Diameter: 41mm
Movement: ETA A08.261 automatic
Price: $3,500
Manufacturer info: longines.com

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Sinn R500 Bullhead Chronograph

sinn r500 bullhead chronograph

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Like the Bolido watch above, the Sinn R500 dial slopes toward the user. As a chronograph with crown and pushers at 12 o’clock, however, it takes on an established form referred to as a “bullhead.” Bullhead chronographs were once more popular, though some brands like Omega continue to produce modern versions.

Diameter: 42mm
Movement: Valjoux 7750 automatic
Price: $4,380
Manufacturer info: sinn.de

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Azimuth Gran Turismo

azimuth gran turismo

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A modern mechanical watch with this level of avant-garde design and the engineering it entails is typically quite a high-end proposition. That’s where independent brand Azimuth stands out, however, offering funky horological concepts at relatively affordable prices. The Gran Turismo offers their own take on the driver’s watch, with a dial that faces the wearer from the side of the wrist.

Diameter: 50mm
Movement: ETA 2671 automatic
Price: ~$5,000
Manufacturer info: azimuthwatch.com

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Cartier Tank Asymétrique

cartier tank asymetrique

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The Cartier Asymmetrique probably wasn’t designed for driving, and was more likely intended as a playfully quirky take on the Tank’s conservative elegance. But its dial rotated 30 degrees perhaps qualifies it as a driver’s watch, and the Arabic numerals replacing the Parisian brand’s signature Roman numerals might even be interpreted as (relatively) sporty.

Diameter: 26.22mm
Movement: Cartier MC 1917 manual
Price: $27,500+
Manufacturer info: cartier.com

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Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921

vacheron constantin historiques american 1921

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The prestigious watchmaker Vacheron Constantin reinterpreted a driving watch it made back in 1921 — back when many cars themselves still looked like buggies without horses. (Checking your watch while driving might have been as dangerous as texting is now.) Its simple elegance contrasts interestingly with its cockeyed orientation, and inside it’s powered by a highly refined and extensively hand-finished in-house movement.

Diameter: 40mm
Movement: Vacheron Constantin 4400 AS
Price: $35,900
Manufacturer info: vacheron-constantin.com

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MB&F HM5

mbf hm5 automatic watch

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The independent Swiss company MB&F is known for totally off-the-wall designs that often don’t even look like wristwatches — indeed, they are better understood as mechanical art. Among most modern watches, the wedge-shaped HM5 might fit that description, but in fact it has precedents among vintage watches. Many brands, including prominent Swiss names, made this type of driver’s watch in the 1960s and ’70s. A good number had LED displays, but some were even mechanical like the HM5 with its specially developed, high-end movement.

Diameter: 49mm
Movement: MB&F automatic
Price: $63,000
Manufacturer info: mbandf.com

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You’ll Never Guess the Origin of This Unique Watch Design

Watches should be accurate and legible. These principles underpin the most successful and familiar watch designs in history, but a purer expression exists in a type of watch known as a regulator. Today, regulator watches are uncommon but offer a unique alternative to standard time-telling that’s simultaneously highly functional and rooted in horological history.

Before the availability of hyper-accurate timekeeping, watchmakers set and tested their watches against a regulator clock. Workshops would have a regulator positioned where all the watchmakers could easily reference it from their desks, and these were some of the most accurate clocks of their time — as specialized watchmaker tools, they even look a bit special compared to traditional clocks.

Regulator clocks (and watches) are immediately identifiable by their unique layout: One large hand in the center indicates the minutes, while the hours and seconds are measured on smaller subdials of their own. Separating the displays makes for quick and precise reading, and emphasizing the minutes was particularly important for watchmakers regulating their watches and clocks.

This design has been reinterpreted on modern wristwatches, and although uncommon, they remain easy to use and represent a link to the history of horology. They also offer a look and experience that stands apart from that of standard dial layouts without feeling eccentric. Below are some notable modern examples.

Xeric Regulator Automatic Silver Bullet

xeric regulator automatic silver bullet watch

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As a brand focused on retro-themed designs and alternative concepts, it’s no surprise that Xeric would have its own interpretation of the regulator watch. It has the separated displays of a traditional regulator, but is characteristic for the brand’s typically funky design style and also its affordable price point.

Diameter: 42mm
Movement: Miyota 82S7 automatic
Price: $499
Manufacturer info: xeric.com

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Hamilton Jazzmaster Regulator Auto

hamilton jazzmaster regulator auto

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Hamilton is great at offering classic styles with its own American-informed personality and reasonable pricing. Designed with generally traditional styling, the Regulator Auto doesn’t look too conservative with its separated time displays featuring the hour and seconds hands positioned asymmetrically.

Diameter: 42mm
Movement: ETA 2825-2
Price: $1,275
Manufacturer info: hamiltonwatch.com

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Louis Erard Excellence Régulateur

louis erard excellence regulateur watch

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Louis Erard is one of very few brands that has made the regulator a central part of its identity. One of the most striking watches in recent memory was the brand’s collaboration with designer Alain Silberstein on an exceptionally compelling and colorful regulator-style watch (now sold out), but the brand’s wider collection and other collabs are some of the most interesting out there.

Diameter:
Movement:
Price: ~$2,500
Manufacturer info: louiserard.com

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Chronoswiss Regulator Classic

chronoswiss regulator classic watch

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Chronoswiss is credited with pioneering the regulator as a wristwatch, starting back in 1988. Today, the majority of their collections remain focused on the concept, and most of them lean toward technical, modern, bold and sporty styling. The Classic is a conservative exception to its many colorful and skeletonized models, but it remains representative of Chronoswiss as one of the few watchmakers that has built a brand around the regulator concept.

Diameter: 37mm
Movement: Chronoswiss C. 295 automatic
Price: $4,700
Manufacturer info: chronoswiss.com

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Sinn 6100 Classic B

sinn 6100 classic b watch

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A elegantly styled regulator seems unusual for Sinn, best known for its tough tool watches — but the German watchmaker can also offer a striking take on traditional designs. The simply named 6100 Classic B uses a modified pocket watch movement fitted into a 44mm case.

Diameter: 44mm
Movement: Unitas 6498 (base) manual
Price: ~$3,000
Manufacturer info: sinn.de

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Glashütte Original Senator Regulator

glashutte original senator regulator watcg

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Anything you get from Glashütte Original is going to offer high-end watchmaking with a refined in-house movement, and a G.O. regulator is no exception. In addition to the separate displays of the hours, minutes and seconds, the brand offers a power reserve display as well as its signature “big date” complication.

Diameter: 42mm
Movement: Glashütte Original 58-04 manual
Price: $26,600
Manufacturer info: glashuette-original.com

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Patek Philippe 5235

patek philippe 5235 watch

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At first glance, the Patek Philippe 5235 looks somewhat like a traditional regulator watch, but the brand simply doesn’t make typical anything. In addition to its industry-topping level of refinement and finishing (the movement is visible through a case back window), annual calendar complications have been tastefully integrated with the day, date and month in subtle apertures.

Diameter: 40.5mm
Movement: Patek Philippe 31‑260 REG QA automatic
Price: $55,590
Manufacturer info: patek.com

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The Best Men’s Watches Under $2,000

As we’ve said before, $2,000 is a sweet spot in the watch buying world. At $1,000 and under, though you can nab yourself a perfectly good timepiece, you’re largely swimming in the “budget” pond. Double your money, however, and you can easily purchase something that will serve you well forever. What’s more, you can buy such a watch from a large, reputable brand with an extensive service network and a guarantee that you can believe in.

There are also plenty of deals to be had on circa-$2k watches from mircobrands. No matter what you’re looking for — a dive watch, a dress watch, a pilot’s watch, or even a GMT, these days — there’s a watch out there at this price range that’ll make for a great daily wearer, or an awesome gift. Here are some of our favorites.

Diver

Benrus Type 1 Limited Edition

benrus type 1 limited edition

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If you appreciate military watches, horological history and something that flies under the radar, then this is the watch for you. A note-for-note remake (or nearly so) of a watch was only ever issued to the spooky set, the new Benrus Type 1 Limited Edition will give you that military feel without actually having to go through Basic. Equipped with 300m of water resistance and a sterile dial, this is the modern mil-watch we’ve all been waiting for.

Diameter: 42.5mm

Movement: ETA 2681 automatic

Water Resistance: 300m

Price: $1,695

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Doxa Sub 300T

doxa sub 300t

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Available in six colors, the Sub 300T offers a wildly good value from a storied Swiss company whose history in the diving space extends back to the early days of the sport. For under $2,000 you get an incredible (and highly visible) dial, Doxa’s famous decompression bezel, a cool cushion case, and one of the best beads-of-rice bracelets on the market. Hell, at this price, you may as well buy a few of ’em.

Diameter: 42.5mm

Movement: ETA 2824-2 automatic

Water Resistance: 1,200m

Price: $1,890

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Oris Divers Sixty-Five 40mm

oris divers sixty five 40mm

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So good it’s almost outrageous that it can be had for $2k, the Oris Divers Sixty-Five is a modern — and vintage — classic. Handsome, nostalgia-inducing, well finished and well proportioned, it features all the charm of a vintage watch and all the modern tech expected of a contemporary masterpiece. (What’s more, for just $200 extra, you can nab one on a vintage, rivet-style bracelet.)

Diameter: 40mm

Movement: Sellita SW 200-1 automatic

Water Resistance: 100m

Price: $2,000

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Dress

Junghans Max Bill Automatic

junghans max bill automatic

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Though we love the thin, handwound version of the Junghans Max Bill, some folks just prefer the convenience of an automatic movement, which we totally get. Thankfully, the auto version is just as handsome as the hand-cranker. Modern but not overwhelmingly large at 38mm, the MBA is available in several dial and strap variations, and even with a date. Influenced by the Bauhaus, it has a look that’ll never go out of style.

Diameter: 38mm

Movement: ETA 2824-1 automatic

Water Resistance: Splash resistant

Price: $1,045+ (depending on configuration)

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anOrdain Model 1

anordain model 1

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There are simply very few “microbrand” watches that can match the anOrdain offerings for value. Enamel dials are incredibly difficult to manufacture, with an absurdly high rejection rate, but this Scottish brand’s entire aesthetic is entirely based around this centuries-old art. When married to modern automatic movements and steel cases, they make for some of the most beautiful watches you can wear today at this price range.

Diameter: 38mm

Movement: ETA 2824-2 automatic

Water Resistance: 50m

Price: ~$1,640+

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Longines Flagship Heritage

longines flagship heritage

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Having seen this watch from afar — or perhaps even from up close, too — you’d be hard pressed to know it wasn’t a vintage midcentury piece. And that’s a good thing. With the exception of its slightly upsized 38.5mm case, modern automatic movement from ETA and sapphire crystal, this stunner retains all the things that made 20th century watches so desirable: beauty, consideration, proportion and utility.

Diameter: 38.5mm

Movement: ETA 2895 automatic

Water Resistance: 30m

Price: $1,675

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Pilot’s

Laco Paderborn

laco paderborn

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Oh, so you wanted a pilot’s watch pilot’s watch? Well, it doesn’t get much more iconic than this. The Paderborn is one of many Laco timepieces based on the brand’s original beobachteruhren, or pilot’s watch of the World War II era (also called flieger watches). This version features the so-called “B” dial arrangement, with an inner 12-hour track and an outer 60-minute track graduated in 5-minute intervals. Just watch out for that enormous onion crown.

Diameter: 42mm

Movement: ETA 2824-2 automatic

Water Resistance: 50m

Price: $1,190

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Ollech and Wajs OW P-104 S

ollech and wajs ow p 104 s

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This might seem like a simple time-only watch, but not all pilot’s watches are chronographs — in fact, perhaps most aren’t. Also, look at that bezel: it’s for on-the-fly calculations for airspeed, wind, navigation etc. Ollech and Wajs made some of the coolest, under-the-radar midcentury pilot and tool watches back in the day, and their P-104S recreates the look and feel of the best of them. (Maybe save the airspeed calculations for digital gauges and computers, however.)

Diameter: 39.56mm

Movement: ETA 2824-2 automatic

Water Resistance: 300m

Price: $1,344

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Damasko DC 56

damasko dc 56

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Damasko has been quietly making some of the best tool watches in the world — and especially pilot’s watches — since 1994. The German brand’s technical prowess is especially visible in the DC 56, a contemporary pilot’s watch with vintage design inspiration (sword hands, highly legible dial, useful chronograph) and modern technology (a specially hardened case.) If you’ve never explored their offerings before, take it from us: this is one of the best values in watches today.

Diameter: 40mm

Movement: Valjoux 7750 automatic (modified)

Water Resistance: 100m

Price: $1,860

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GMT

Farer Lander III

farer lander iii

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Though Farer has several GMT watches in its lineup, we find the Lander III the most compelling. Similar to the Monta Atlas (see below), it’s a dressier model, and super thin at just 10mm in depth. Available on a variety of straps, its features a fixed bezel with an inner 24-hour ring and a stunning blue dial that’s rare amongst GMT offerings. Aesthetically unique and interesting, it’s a standout in a sea of otherwise similar watches.

Diameter: 39.5mm

Movement: Sellita SW330 automatic

Water Resistance: 100m

Price: $1,445+

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Zodiac Super Sea Wolf GMT

zodiac super sea wolf gmt

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The Super Sea Wolf GMT recalls a line of similar watches from Zodiac that were highly popular in the 1960s, and provided a less expensive alternative to watches such as the Rolex GMT Master. For less than $2,000 you’re still getting a quality Swiss movement, however, plus a matching steel Oyster-style bracelet, a rotating steel bezel and 200m of water resistance. Not bad at all.

Diameter: 40mm

Movement: ETA 2893-2 automatic

Water Resistance: 200m

Price: $1,795

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Monta Atlas

monta atlas

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Monta actually has two badass GMT watches in its catalog, but for the purposes of keeping the offerings in this guide to below $2,000, let’s check out the Atlas: Released in 2019, this is one of the rare “dressier” GMTs on the market, similar in feel to certain Grand Seiko offerings, but powered by a third-party Swiss automatic movement rather than something in-house. That’s perfectly fine, however, because this thin GMT is ultra comfortable, handsome and versatile.

Diameter: 38.5mm

Movement: Sellita SW330 automatic

Water Resistance: 150m

Price: $1,950

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Field

Timor Heritage Field

timor heritage field

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Available in both handwound or automatic variants, the Timor Heritage Field is a reproduction of the brand’s “Dirty Dozen” field watch delivered to the military in 1945. Though Timor is among the less well known brands that produced the W.W.W. watch (“Watch. Wrist. Waterproof.”), the resuscitated firm seems to have hit the nail on the head with its 36mm tribute. Wear it in the field, wear it into combat, or maybe just wear it around the office.

Diameter: 36mm

Movement: Sellita SW260 automatic or SW216 manual

Water Resistance: 50m

Price: $1,243

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Weiss 38mm Standard Issue Field Watch

weiss 38mm standard issue field watch

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Weiss’s products are based on classic American field watches from the mid-20th century, so it’s no surprise that his Standard Issue Field Watch looks so familiar. A hand-polished case and hand-finished mechanical movement, however, differentiate this solid timepiece from the pack, lending a serious degree of refinement to what is otherwise a strictly utilitarian design. If you’re looking for the essence of the field watch without any frills, this is the watch to buy.

Diameter:
38mm

Movement:
Weiss cal. 1005 hand-wound (ETA 7001 base)

Water Resistance:
100m

Price:
$1,450

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Sinn 856

sinn 856

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Sinn, much like fellow German brand Damasko, doesn’t mess around when it comes to crafting technically superior watches that pack more value than similar wares from bigger-name brands. The steel on this 856, for instance, undergoes a special hardening process, while a special copper-sulfate capsule absorbs and diffuses any internal moisture that enters the watch, thereby preventing any fogging in the crystal. Pretty crazy for under $2k, eh?

Diameter: 40mm

Movement: Sellita SW300-1 movement

Water Resistance: 200m

Price: $1,870

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Chronograph

Yema Speedgraf

yema speedgraf

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Even if the Speedgraf wasn’t an incredibly well executed homage to one of the brand’s 1960s chronographs, the fact that it uses a rather uncommon automatic chronograph movement from Seiko — complete with column wheel and vertical clutch — would be enough to hold watch guys’ and gals’ interest. Interesting movement aside, the Speedgraf’s well sized 39mm case, box-style domed crystal and applied indices give it the look of a vintage piece and the feel of a modern watch.

Diameter: 39mm

Movement: Seiko NE86 automatic

Water Resistance: 100m

Price: $1,499

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Junghans Max Bill Chronoscope

junghans max bill chronoscope

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Amazingly, the Chronoscope manages to retain the Max Bill collection’s minimalist, Bauhaus character while adding a dual-register chronograph. Perhaps the use of the up-down configuration for the sub-registers, rather than the more convention side-by-side, as well as a thin bezel and top-hat chronograph pushers, helps to keep the watch’s added functionality from feeling overwhelming. However you look at it, this is the perfect chronograph for the design set.

Diameter: 40mm

Movement: Junghans J880.2 automatic (Valjoux 7750 base)

Water Resistance: Splash-resistant

Price: $1,549

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Farer Chronograph Sport

farer chronograph sport

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Available in three different colorways, the Chronograph Sport is the perfect chrono for those who prefer a bit of playfulness in their watches: Even the black-dial variant features a fun splash of teal in the handset. Powered by manually wound Swiss movements, these otherwise colorful chronos feature touches that the die-hard watch enthusiast set will appreciate. Choose one of Farer’s luxurious St. Venere leather straps to pair one with, and you’re off to the races.

Diameter: 41mm

Movement: Sellita SW510 BH Elaboré hand-wound

Water Resistance: 100m

Price: $1,955

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If You Can Only Buy One Field Watch, Buy This One

Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical, $525+

Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical, (Pre-owned)

Skip the heavy lifting and go straight to what’s best. Just Get This is our no-nonsense guide to the gear you need, now.

While you can certainly drop a huge pile o’ money on a field watch from a top-tier brand (the Rolex Explorer comes to mind), the great thing about this particular genre of timepieces is that, for the most part, they’re often relatively inexpensive. After all, that was sort of the original point.

The field watch, perhaps more than any other type of watch, is made to be abused — it’s made for the field. If many field watches conjure up military imagery in your mind, that’s because this is where the origins of this type of watch lie: on the wrists of soldiers going off to battle. The field watch is meant to be legible, robust, unobtrusive, and often, affordable. (It wouldn’t be much good as a field watch if it were prohibitively inexpensive for governments or individuals to equip themselves with it.)

American military watches were made by now legendary (once-American owned) brands such a Hamilton, Bulova, Waltham, and others. Nowadays, though Hamilton is part of the Swatch Group, the company founded in Lancaster, PA still offers a watch, the Khaki Field Mechanical, based upon its classic military models — and it might just be the only field watch you’ll ever need. Here’s why.

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It’s Based on Tried and True Designs

You see that dial with the dart indices, the lume-filled hands, the inner 24-hour scale, the highly legible minute scale, and not much else? You see that matte, stainless steel case meant to prevent reflections, and the hand-wound movement? All that stuff is there because it works vintage Hamilton field watches that were actually issued to American soldiers had these traits. This is a no-frills watch meant to be abused in the sun, the rain, and whatever else nature throws at it.

It’s Hand-Wound

So why would a hand-wound watch trump a quartz version in the 21st century? While you can certainly make arguments in favor for quartz’s accuracy and affordability, the thing about a hand-wound movement is that you never have to worry about a battery running out — you just get up in the morning, give it a good wind, and it’s good to go….forever. Sure, it’ll probably need a service at some point, but so does your car. And best of all, the movement Hamilton’s using has an impressive 80-hour power reserve.

hamilton
The Khaki Field on a bracelet ($575)

Hamilton

It’s Available in Multiple Configurations

When the Khaki Field Mechanical came out, it was only available in a classic black dial with matte steel case. Not so anymore: you can get one with a white dial, or with an “earth”-colored PVD case, or a black PVD case. You can even get one with a steel bracelet, which, while less true to the watch’s origins, serves the folks who like the feel of steel rather than nylon or leather. All of which brings me to my last point:

It’s Not Precious

These watches are under $600 — closer to $500, even. That’s a wild bargain for something this good, this useful, this handsome. Shit, you could buy one in four different colors and still not get to half the MSRP of a field watch from certain blue chip brands. Does that mean the KFM is the best field watch in the world? Perhaps not — that’s a matter of opinion. But it might be the only one you really need.

Hamilton

Khaki Field Mechanical

Hamilton hodinkee.com

$525.00

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It’s Time to Protect Your Watch

Talking Points:

HODINKEE Insurance

Whether you have one watch or a collection of 100, protecting it with insurance will keep you from staring into the mirror and questioning your life decisions should something go haywire — at least when it comes to your watches. Nothing hurts like having your prized GMT Master or Moonwatch stolen, but HODINKEE Insurance can help take the sting out of the experience. HODINKEE partnered with Chubb to offer policies on watches at virtually every price tier, and you can update your collection on the fly from anywhere in the world if you happen to buy a new piece or sell an old one. To learn more about why you should insure your watches with HODINKEE Insurance, read on below.


hand holding phone looking at watch collection

Hodinkee Insurance


You’re Covered

HODINKEE Insurance makes it easy to keep all of your watches covered — even if they are in transit to a new buyer, worn by your spouse or end up missing sometime throughout your day.

Reimbursement Paid Directly to You

In the event that you have to claim a loss, payment is issued directly to you — so you can stop sulking and start sourcing your replacement. Plus, with HODINKEE Insurance’s market value protection, you can be sure that your watch’s replacement value is covered up to 150 percent of your listed price (on the flip side, it’s also protected against depreciation).

Easy to Insure Regardless of Price

Even if you have high-value timepieces, it’s still easy to get a quote and get them insured. Watches that hit the $100k+ threshold require an appraisal, but HODINKEE’s in-house modern and vintage watch dealers are happy to help you there as well.


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To read more in the Talking Points series, click here.

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There Are Some Surprisingly Cool Watches Made for Chinese New Year

There have been watches made by Swiss and other European brands especially for the Chinese market going back much further than the country’s modern economic resurgence, but nowadays there are more than ever — and many are cool creations that anyone can enjoy.

You don’t have to be Chinese to be aware of the Chinese New Year — watch brands are certainly aware of it and the nation’s power both as a producer and consumer of watches. It’s no wonder that each year there are a number of watch companies that take the opportunity to do something special for one of their most important markets.

According to the traditional Chinese lunisolar calendar, 2021 begins the Year of the Ox or Bull — and some watchmakers choose to reference this year’s zodiac sign specifically while others more generally celebrate the occasion or Chinese cultural themes. Depending on the contents of your “red envelopes” (红包) you just might be in the spirit to spring for one.

Swatch Ox Rocks 2021 Watch

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Many of the watches made for the Chinese New Year are decidedly upscale, but Swatch characteristically offers a fun and affordable option. In the brand’s appropriately named Big Bold collection with 47mm-wide cases, the Ox Rocks 2021 watch features an ox motif that forms a yin yang shape in red and gold.

Price: $125

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Casio G-Shock Year of the Ox Edition

watches

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G-Shock’s most iconic models, the squarish 5600 and roundish 6900 series, are here rendered with gold-coated steel bezels and matched to bright red dials and straps. They’d be perfectly appropriate for any zodiac year, but the case backs are engraved with an ox motif by Chinese artist Shan Jiang especially for 2021.

Price: ~$295-$310

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Konstantin Chaykin Wristmon Minotaur

watch

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Independent Russian watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin’s best-known creations are his series using separate hour and minute dials to form the eyes of a face — in this case, the face of a bull. Always wildly creative and never satisfied with mere aesthetic updates, the bull’s nostrils display the day of the week via two separate discs that each shows a single letter to form FR for Friday, SA for Saturday, etc. (see it work here). The bull’s eyes look bloodshot with a red Chinese-style lattice motif, and the specially made case has lugs that form horns. Only eight will be made.

Price: ~$22,400

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Chopard L.U.C Urushi Spirit of Shi Chen

watch

Chopard

Various cycles can be represented by the 12 Chinese zodiac signs, and for 2021 Chopard uses the concept in an unusual complication: The 12 animals symbolize the hours, and they rotate in tandem with traditional hour hand on the dial. Chopard’s L.U.C line is its platform for high-end watchmaking, so alongside a dial is executed in Japanese urushi lacquer you can expect to find a refined in-house movement visible through the case back.

Price: $38,000

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Blancpain Villeret Chinese Traditional Calendar

watches

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Blancpain could have simply used an ox motif or Chinese numerals on its existing calendar watch and called it a day, but they didn’t: they created a complex mechanism that tracks lunisolar data alongside Gregorian calendar data — which is quite relevant for many Chinese citizens. An aperture at around 12 o’clock even displays a silhouette of the current zodiac animal that’ll change each year.

Price: $87,800

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Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Legend of the Chinese Zodiac Year of the Ox Watch

watches

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A number of high-end watchmakers have released watches with artistic interpretations of Chinese zodiac animals, which often feature precious metals, lacquer painting and engravings. The ox at the center of this Vacheron Constantin example is hand engraved and set against a grand feu enamel background. The hours, minutes, date and day of the week are all displayed in peripheral windows so the art remains the focus.

Price: $107,000+

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All The Watch Details You Never Noticed, and Why They’re There

It’s worth looking closely at watches: you might discover gobsmackingly minute mechanics or handy features and functions hiding in plain sight. Because watches were developed over centuries for a range of purposes, many also have vestiges of traits that offer fascinating links to the past — but it’s possible to go though life never knowing the reasons behind what’s on your wrist.

That would be a shame, though, because these details can deepen your watch-wearing experience and appreciation, and sometimes even prove useful. Why do some watches have a seconds hand that ticks and others have one that sweeps? What does that odd little fifth pocket in your bluejeans have to do with watches? Did you ever notice that some chronograph watches only count up to 45 minutes? Did you ever wonder why?

These questions, mysteries and more are the focus of our series Further Details, which examines overlooked product elements of all kinds. Here we’ve collected all such content related to watches, so you can dig in to the stories that show how timepieces are so much more than mere time-tellers or fashion accessories.

How to Spot a Mechanical Watch from Across a Room

baltic

Baltic

It’s all in the seconds hand.

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Does Your Chronograph Watch Have This Mysterious Feature?

tudor

Tudor

And what on earth is a 45-minute counter used for?

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A Word to the Wise Before Posting Your Watch Pictures Online

hide watch serial number

Hunter D. Kelley

Keeping your watch’s serial number private is probably a good idea. Here’s why.

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Why Your Watch’s Seconds Hand Is More Important Than You Thought

men of a us troop carrier group, 1st allied airborne army, synchronize their watches during a briefing preceeding the droping of paratroopers and gliders troops east of the rhine river

Photo 12Getty Images

The ability to stop the seconds hand of a watch has a critical purpose.

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Get More from Your Watch When Traveling with This Special Kind of Bezel

ollech wajs watch

Zen Love

The 12-hour bezel provides a stupidly simple way to track a second time zone without shelling out for a dedicated travel watch.

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Why Does the Popular NATO Watch Strap Have This Mysterious Feature?

fd nato gear patrol lead full

Hunter D. Kelley

We took a deeper look at NATO straps to find out exactly why these fun and affordable watch accessories are designed the way they are.

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Think You Know What That Small Pocket on Your Jeans Is For? You’re Probably Wrong

further details

Henry Phillips

The jeans you’re wearing right now have a curious feature you might have wondered about.

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Why Does Your Rolex Dive Watch Have a Hole in Its Side? We Found Out

fd helium escape valve gear patrol lead full

Zen Love

Like a screen door on a submarine, you wouldn’t think a hole in the side of your dive watch would be a good idea.

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The Best Watches to Buy from Huckberry

An excellently curated selection of gear, EDC and apparel puts online retailer Huckberry very much on the Gear Patrol wavelength. And that curation includes a tasteful range of tool watches, from fun and affordable Timex to some serious, Swiss-made automatic divers. Huckberry has even been known to partner with brands on its own special editions. It’s worth browsing all the options in the Huckberry Watch Shop, but here’s a taste of what’s on offer.

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Casio G-Shock GM5600-1 Watch

The utterly classic G-Shock form based on the 1983 original, but looking more refined with a metal bezel. Still tough and eminently affordable.

Price: $180

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Zodiac Super Sea Wolf GMT Limited Edition Watch

Zodiac offers some real dive watch heritage and solid build at affordable prices. This one’s got a handy GMT function, to boot.

Price: $1,795

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Shinola Runwell

Shinola’s flagship everyday watch, the Runwell, has a quartz movement and a boatload of style.

Price: $550

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Huckberry x Timex “Cola” Sport Watch

An exclusive limited edition for Huckberry, this dive-style watch took the Timex Q concept and gave it a “cola” treatment in red and black.

Price: $189

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Seiko Prospex “Arnie” Watch

Watches don’t get much more badass than this crazy-tough, military-style watch nicknamed “Arnie” after the one worn by one Arnold Schwarzenegger in ’80s action movies.

Price: $550

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Luminox Navy Seal Foundation Series Watch

Luminox’s no-nonsense attitude and military cred come through in this dive watch made for the toughest use possible.

Price: $395

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Unimatic U1-FDN

The U1-FDN from Italian brand Unimatic in all black has a striking presence on its matching NATO strap.

Price: $775

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Alsta Nautoscaph Superautomatic

The aquatic watch worn in the movie Jaws. What more do you want?

Price: $1,005

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The Best Dive Watches Under $5,000

$5,000. A lotta money. For $5k, your watch better tell the time real good.

Well, the good news is that it almost certainly will. $5,000 is well into entry-level luxury territory — and by that admittedly arbitrary term, we mean that you can absolutely buy a great watch from a blue chip Swiss, German, Japanese or American brand that will last you a lifetime. In fact, it’ll probably last well beyond your lifetime, and your kids and grandkids will be enjoying it many decades hence.

Though you’re not quite in Rolex Submariner or Omega Seamaster Diver 300 territory yet (at least on a bracelet — you can get the latter on rubber for under $5k!), there are plenty of other options from big names that come in below the $5,000 mark that deserve your attention. All these watches have premium and necessary features such as screw-down crowns, sapphire crystals, unidirectional rotating dive bezels and powerful lume. Better yet, each comes with a great warranty.

So without further ado, here are some of the best divers under $5k. Happy diving!

Sinn EZM3 3

sinn ezm3 3 dive watch

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You’re getting so much watch when you buy a Sinn that it makes you look around, wondering if you’re doing something illegal. The EZM 3 is perhaps the German company’s most badass watch: a specialized diver configured with the crown on the left so as not to dig into the wrist or foul equipment, it features an antimagnetic case, an inert gas-filled cavity with a dehumidifier capsule to prevent fogging and “special micro-lubricating techniques allows for operation down to -45 degrees centigrade.” Oh, and it also tells the time.

Diameter: 41mm

Movement: ETA 2824-2 automatic

Water Resistance: 500m

Price: $2,280

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TAG Heuer Aquaracer

tag heuer aquaracer dive watch

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If you’re looking for something that’s gonna catch people’s eye, look no further — the oversized case (43mm) and striking blue sunray dial on this Aquaracer should do the trick nicely. Outfitted with TAG’s Sellita/ETA-based Calibre 5 movement with 38 hours of power reserve, it features genuine good looks and a wildly cool matching bezel with “tortoise shell” effect. And with 300m of water resistance, it’s more than adequate for all your diving needs.

Diameter: 43mm

Movement: TAG Heuer Calibre 5 automatic

Water Resistance: 300m

Price: $2,700

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Longines Legend Diver Bronze

tag heuer aquaracer dive watch

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Longines sells a hell of a watch for the money. In this case, you’re getting a bronze-cased version of their famous vintage reissue, which they’ve dubbed the Legend Diver. This 42mm watch encompasses a dual-crown design (one to set the time, the other to control the inner bezel), a funky green dial, an automatic Swiss movement and two straps (one leather, and one NATO). If you like your dive watches full-retro, then it pays to look into the Longines catalog.

Diameter: 42mm

Movement: Longines L888 automatic (ETA base)

Water Resistance: 300m

Price: $3,000

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Breitling Superocean Automatic 42

breitling superocean automatic 42 dive watch

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If classic dive watch styling is more your thing, than you could do much worse than the Breitling Superocean Series. This 42mm version is kitted out with an automatic, chronometer-certified movement, an impressive 500m of water resistance, and matching steel bracelet. Its oversized Arabic indices doused in Super-LumiNova should be hard to miss underwater, and you also get a handy date complication at 3 o’clock. In short, if you’re a fan of the Submariner but don’t want to spend that kind of money, you should definitely look here.

Diameter: 42mm

Movement: Breitling cal. 17 automatic

Water Resistance: 500m

Price: $3,950

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Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Black Matte

bell ross br 03 92 diver black matte watch

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If you dig Bell & Ross’s aviation-themed, instrument panel aesthetic but want it in a diver package, well, you’re in luck — it certainly exists, and in multiple iterations. One of the coolest of these is the Black Matte model, which makes use of a ceramic case, black dial and matching black bezel for a cool, tactical effect that wouldn’t look out of place on an aircraft carrier. 42mm in diameter and outfitted with a Swiss automatic movement, this is the perfect diver for someone interested in a military vibe.

Diameter: 42mm

Movement: Bell & Ross BR-CAL.302 automatic (Sellita base)

Water Resistance: 300m

Price: $3,990

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Oris Carl Brashear Caliber 401 Limited Edition

oris carl brashear caliber 401 limited edition dive watch

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This special limited edition is part of a collection honoring diving legend Carl Brashear, the first African American man to graduate from the U.S. Navy Diving & Salvage School in 1954. It features a 40mm bronze case and is the first Oris diver to house an in-house movement, the Caliber 401, which has an impressive 5-day power reserve, antimagnetic properties and and a small seconds display at six o’clock. Shipping on a strap from Erika’s Originals that mimics old Marine Nationale fabric models, it’s a striking, value-packed watch that honors the legacy of a trailblazer.

Diameter: 40mm

Movement: Oris Caliber 401 automatic

Water Resistance: 100m

Price: $4,200

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Tudor Pelagos

tudor pelagos watch

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Few modern watches exhibit more serious diver cred than Tudor’s Pelagos. Though it makes use of the brand’s famous “snowflake” handset, this thing is otherwise fully in the 21st century: it’s got a titanium/steel case, one of the best dive bracelets on the market, an in-house, chronometer-certified Tudor movement with 70 hours of power reserve, 500m of water resistance, a helium escape valve…need we go on? Oh, and it also comes in black, and even a lefty configuration.

Diameter: 42mm

Movement: Tudor cal. MT5612 automatic

Water Resistance: 500m

Price: $4,575

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Doxa Sub 300 Carbon Aqua Lung US Divers Sharkhunter

doxa sub 300 carbon aqua lung us divers sharkhunter dive watch

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A special edition, all-black Sub 300 made in partnership with Aqualung, this is easily one of the coolest dive watches on the market right now, full stop. It features a 42.5mm carbon case, a COSC-certified version of the Swiss automatic ETA 2824-2 movement, a matching black rubber strap and Doxa’s famous decompression bezel in black, white and yellow. And 300m of water resistance ensures you can go as deep as you like.

Diameter: 42.5mm

Movement: ETA 2824-2 automatic (COSC-certified)

Water Resistance: 300m

Price: $4,790

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Omega Seamaster Diver 300

omega seamaster diver 300 watch

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I mean, what else could you possibly want for under $5,000? You’re getting an in-house, co-axial, master chronometer-certified movement from one of the best watchmakers in the world, plus a helium escape valve, a domed, sapphire crystal with antireflective treatment on both sides, a gorgeous wave dial with date complication at six o’clock, and a comfortable rubber strap. So long as you can pull off a 42mm case, this is an easy recommendation.

Diameter: 42mm

Movement: Omega cal. 8800 automatic

Water Resistance: 300m

Price: $4,900

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Bremont S501/BR

bremont s501 br dive watch

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Named in honor of the iconic British aircraft manufacturer of the WWII-era Spitfire, the Supermarine is Bremont’s first and most well known diver. With its offset crown, Swiss automatic movement and matching bracelet, it’s certainly a handsome, useful watch, but the true interest lies in its construction: the 43mm Trip-Tick, three-part case is designed by Bremont and makes for easier service in the event that only one part of the case needs attention or replacing.

Diameter: 43mm

Movement: Bremont cal. BE-92AE automatic (ETA base)

Water Resistance: 300m

Price: $4,995

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Celebrate Tampa Bay’s Win with This Super Bowl LV Timex Watch

With congratulations to Tampa, Mr. Tom Brady with his seventh Super Bowl win and all their fans: we hope you’re celebrating safely, and recommend this timely new Timex Super Bowl LV Champions Tampa Bay Buccaneers Gamer watch as a fun way to do so. You know you’re going to be wearing your jersey and basking in pride for some time, so why not get a watch to match?

Timex marks the historic moment with a dial prominently branded with the Super Bowl LV logo alongside that of the Buccaneers. With an appropriately sporty style, including a dive-watch-style bezel and 42mm steel case, it’s powered by a reliable quartz movement. Timex makes the proposition of this unique bit of merchandise fun and affordable at only $70 directly from the brand.

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There’s a Great Seiko Dive Watch for Every Budget

When you think of Seiko, there’s a good chance it’s one of their iconic dive watches that comes to mind — which one, however, is anybody’s guess. From vintage and out-of-production models to new releases at every price point, the Japanese juggernaut makes compelling dive watches for every type of buyer. If you want the Seiko diver experience, you simply need to ask yourself: how much am I looking to spend?

At almost every hundred-dollar increment, there’s going to be something cool — whether you want your first mechanical watch or weekend beater for a couple hundred dollars, or a truly high-end luxury diver with bells, whistles and zaratsu polishing. Among Seiko dive watches at all levels, you’l find some common traits and design features as well as the brand’s famous bang-for-buck value.

What Seiko offers at different price points can also help clarify the brand’s positioning (though some no-longer produced watches like the SKX series can complicate the picture). Even at the entry point of around $300, Seiko’s automatic watches offer robust in-house movements with hacking and hand-winding capabilities (unlike many older models), and at just about every level, you can expect impressive quality for the price and serious diving specs.

The following selection doesn’t include every dive watch family or collection Seiko makes, but it illustrates the range and features you can typically expect — and shows how many of ’em are just so damn good.

Seiko 5 Sports SRPD51

seiko 5 blue dial sports watch

Seiko

The modern Seiko 5 Sports collection has impressive quality and comfort for its price — and a staggering number of available variations. It offers a solid automatic movement (visible through the case back) and features Hardlex crystal and 100m of water resistance.

Diameter: 42.5mm
Water Resistance: 100mm
Price: $295

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Seiko Prospex “Samurai” SRPB53

seiko prospex samurai watch with black strap

Seiko

The “Samurai” is one of Seiko’s famous nicknamed models. In its current form it represents the entry level tier of Seiko Prospex dive watches well: at this price point one can expect things like Hardlex crystal, 200m of water resistance and some quirky but characterful designs. (This price range is also where you’ll also find icons like the “Turtle” and “Monster.”)

Diameter: 44mm
Water Resistance: 200m
Price: $495

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Seiko Prospex “King Turtle” SRPE05

seiko prospex king turtle green watch

Seiko

The “King” nicknames have been applied to Turtle and Samurai dive watches that are fitted with premium features. In addition to the sapphire crystal with a cyclops — a magnifier over the day and date windows — it features a ceramic bezel and waffle-textured dial that together make its price premium over the “regular” Turtle seem more than reasonable. This right here might be the sweet spot and the strongest value you’ll find in modern Seiko divers.

Diameter: 45mm
Water Resistance: 200m
Price: $595

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Seiko SPB053

seiko blue dial watch with black strap

Seiko

This is just one way in which Seiko’s first dive watch, known as the “62MAS,” has been reinterpreted in recent years. It was announced alongside a more faithful but high-end version, but the relatively affordable SPB053 (and similar models) offers a clear link to the past while being sized up (to 42.6mm) and tweaked with contemporary cues. It’s also got familiar Prospex features and a unique, rugged look.

Diameter: 42.6mm
Water Resistance: 200m
Price: $800

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Seiko Prospex Sumo SPB177

seiko prospex sumo watch with green dial

Seiko

The Seiko “Sumo” truly feels like a serious dive watch and a big brother to the Turtle and Samurai. It’s also got a more mature, conservative look, with only a date display (no day of the week), a cyclops, refined finishing, solid construction and sapphire crystal. The recently announced “Ice Diver” U.S. exclusive editions include pale colors and textured dials — however, the included bracelet still features the old-style clasp and not the upgraded one available on watches very close to this price point.

Diameter: 45mm
Water Resistance: 200m
Price: $900

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Seiko Prospex SPB077

seiko prospex watch with black dial

Seiko

A modern reinterpretation of a Seiko dive watch from 1968 (ref. 6159), the SPB077 is just another great example of what Seiko does well. It also represents the brand’s ascent into more competitive territory, but the details and finishing are commensurate. Its value might not be the bargain of, say, the King Turtle, but it’s another demonstration of Seiko’s expertise in case design and ergonomics, as its large-sounding 44mm case is, in fact, more wearable than might be expected even for slimmer wrists. You’ll find the bracelet has a nicer, more substantial-feeling clasp than most models around $1k.

Diameter: 44mm
Water Resistance: 200m
Price: $1,050

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Seiko Prospex SPB143

seiko prospex watch with black dial

Seiko

After a couple shots at reinterpreting the hugely popular “62MAS” dive watch of 1965, many agree that this is the one Seiko really got right. It nails the proportions (40.5mm case) and luxury features you’d expect (sapphire crystal, etc.) but mixes it with a contemporary feel that still seems satisfyingly consistent with the classic design of the 62MAS.

Diameter: 40.5mm
Water Resistance: 200m
Price: $1,200

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Seiko Prospex “Willard” SPB151

seiko prospex willard watch

Seiko

The 6105 is one of Seiko’s most iconic dive watches and has influenced the brand’s design DNA in a number of ways, visible not least in the famous Turtle. The 6105 has a quirky protruding case shape that functions as a crown protector but also lends it distinctive and utilitarian look. (It got its nickname, “the Willard,” when Martin Sheen’s character Captain Willard wore it in the 1979 film Apocalypse Now.) For the modern rerelease, Seiko introduced a high-end version with a larger case size, but many Seiko fans will be quite satisfied with the 40.5mm proportions of this relatively affordable variation.

Diameter: 40.5mm
Water Resistance
: 200m
Price: $1,300

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Seiko Prospex “Shogun” SPB189

seiko prospex shogun watch with brown dial

Seiko

The “Shogun,” as this particular design has been nicknamed, has been around for a while. Though its design isn’t as distinctive as some Seiko divers, it’s long existed as a more upscale option that still feels very Seiko. With a lot of the higher-end features expected from the brand at over $1k, a fully titanium case, bezel and bracelet elevates this watch to another level.

Diameter: 43.5
Water Resistance: 200m
Price: $1,550

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Seiko Prospex SLA042

seiko prospex watch

Seiko

No treatment of Seiko dive watches would be complete without an example of the utterly funky but famous “Tuna”-style case, so called due to its stout shape and proportions that are reminiscent of a store-bought can of tunafish. The strap attaches directly under the case (without protruding lugs) and there’s a protective outer shroud that makes it appear utterly unconcerned with aesthetics — and yet it’s somehow cool-looking. The original 1975 design is said to be the response to a request from a professional diver, and many such uncompromisingly serious watches have followed.

Diameter: 52.4mm
Water Resistance: 1,000m
Price: $3,900

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Seiko Prospex LX SNR031

seiko prospex lx black watch

Seiko

What you have here is a dive watch that couldn’t be more illustrative of the term “overbuilt.” Despite being built from lightweight titanium, the large 44.8mm case is a beast on the wrist, but its refinement shows through at the same time. Yes, it’s got the brand’s famous zaratsu polishing and the innovative Spring Drive movement tech, as well as luxury fit and finish, but it still feels like it’s meant to be used as a genuine tool.

Diameter: 44.8mm
Water Resistance: 300m
Price: $6,000

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BONUS: Grand Seiko Sport Diver SBGA231

grand seiko sport diver watch

Seiko

Though the Grand Seiko dive watches are most certainly tough and capable, they seem to emphasize the versatile, luxury diver experience over the pure tool persona found in Prospex. Here, again, you’ll find features like titanium and a Spring Drive movement, but the Grand Seiko difference shows in the details and finishing. This is true even of the movement, but it’s unfortunately hidden from view behind a solid case back.

Diameter: 44.2mm
Water Resistance: 200m
Price: $7,100

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The Ultimate Guide to Pilot’s Watches

Pilot’s watches can take many forms: big, small, military or civilian in origin, a bold and spartan dial or a captivatingly busy chronograph… But what they share in common is a focused purpose and a connection to the endlessly compelling idea of flight.

As design and functionality of pilot’s watches have changed over the decades, this broad genre can include anything from a simple WWII-style flieger to a hyper-modern Breitling or a G-Shock with bluetooth connection and digital displays. Which one is right for you? What’s the story behind their differences and functions?

We’ve collected our extensive pilot’s watch coverage from over the years together in one place: Below you’ll find guidance on buying your first (or second, or third) pilot’s watch as well as in-depth stories behind some of the most iconic models, and much more. Enjoy!

The Best Pilot’s Watches Available Right Now

navitimer

Breitling

Whether a classic flieger or an automatic GMT, there’s a pilot’s watch out there for the fighter jock in everyone.

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5 Questions to Ask Before You Buy a Pilot’s Watch

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Flieger, time-only, chronograph, digital…there are more types of pilot’s watches than there are pilots! Use this guide to help you buy the right one.

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Do Today’s Pilots Really Use Pilots Watches?

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Allen Farmelo

Once essential kit, mechanical pilots watches today have largely been made obsolete.

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What Are Flieger Watches, and Which Should I Buy?

damasko da 46

WIndup Watch Shop

What started as a small batch of watches made in 1941 has since become one of the most iconic designs in history.

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Everything You Need to Know About Some of the Most Iconic Pilots Watches Ever Made

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Photo Illustrations by Gear Patrol | PPR Media Relations AG

In this retrospective, we dive into the fabled world of pilot’s watches and the best from the fabled brand, Breitling.

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The Type 20 Military Pilot’s Chronograph Watch

dodane type 20 gear patrol lead full

Analog / Shift

Some of the coolest military chronograph watches ever were made for the French air force after WWII, and some are still being produced today.

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This Affordable New Military Watch Is Even Better Than the Vintage Original

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Zen Love

Hamilton has hit a home run with the new Khaki Pilot Pioneer Mechanical, a killer recreation of the military W10 watch produced in the 1970s.

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What Makes Rolex’s GMT-Master The Best Travel Watch Ever?

rolex gmt master ii

Rolex

This two-timer from the jet age is technically and aesthetically the mother of all GMT watches.

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The History of the World’s Most Famous Pilot’s Watch

breitling navitimer icon gear patrol lead full

Breitling

There is perhaps no wristwatch still in production that’s more associated with flight and pilots than the Breitling Navitimer.

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This Pilot’s Watch Was a Critical Tool at the Dawn of Commercial Aviation

pilot watch benrus sky chief gear patrol lead slide 1

Analog/Shift

The Benrus Sky Chief was used by pilots for navigation in the 1940s, when commercial aviation was young and cockpits were a lot more analog.

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This Is the Seiko Watch Made for Japanese Pilots During WWII

seikosha tensoku kamikaze gear patrol lead full

Menta Watches

Known as the Seikosha Kamikaze, this obscure pilot’s watch has an incredible story to tell that forms a little-known facet of Seiko history.

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This Watch Was Exactly What Pilots Needed in 1953

watches you should know glycine airman gear patrol lead full

Analog / Shift

The Glycine Airman was an innovative watch when it launched in response to a simple conversation with a commercial pilot.

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The First Pilot’s Watch Ever Is Also One of the Best Dress Watches Ever

cartier santos gear patrol lead full

Cartier

The Cartier Santos probably isn’t what you think of when you think “pilot’s watch.”

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This Pilot’s Watch Is Like a Flight Instrument on Your Wrist

bell ross br

Bell & Ross

Bell & Ross’s square-cased BR 01 may not be for everyone, but it’s become a modern classic. Here’s its story.

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Go Read This Story About How Iconic Watches Influenced Apple Watch Faces

While unquestionably innovative, Apple stands on the shoulders of giants both in technology and design. Take its watch faces: many are based on elements of centuries-old traditional horology, as is expounded upon in this in-depth article over at Arun.is, the blog of designer and engineer Arun Venkatesan.

Many people assume that the Apple Watch is simply a shrunken phone or tablet — they couldn’t be more wrong. Apple studied the traditional watch industry intensely in developing the first Apple Watch, and the subtle details and resulting user experience feels familiar to dedicated wristwatch enthusiasts in a multitude of ways. It’s no coincidence that one of the original Apple Watch developers was designer Marc Newson, who had relevant experience from working with major watch companies and creating his own brand, Ikepod.

The Apple Watch faces feature are often taken directly from chronograph watches, GMT watches, dive watches and even offer a somewhat obscure feature known as the “California dial.” Each has deep history that Venkatesan treats individually. (He also keeps terminology well defined for those unfamiliar with specialized watch jargon.) Give it a read, and you’ll surely appreciate the universe of technology and design inside that gadget on your wrist just a little more.

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The Best Dress Watches for Men

Unlike a chronograph or a dive watch, the parameters of what make a good dress watch aren’t so easily defined. Truthfully, you can wear pretty much any watch you want with a suit (you can thank James Bond, with his propensity to wear a diver with a tux, for that), but to really elevate your black-tie look, what you want is something thin enough to fit under a sleeve cuff, minimal enough to complement your wardrobe (rather than overpower it) and classic enough to weather finicky changes in style trends.

Again, it’s not so clearly defined. But if you want an idea of what to look for, these 12 watches — spanning in price from under $1,000 to well into five figures — are emblematic of the perfect fancy dress timepiece.

Max Bill Hand-Winding


Celebrated industrial designer Max Bill’s work lives on in the form of this beautiful Bauhaus watch. Handwound and outfitted with a simple leather strap, it’s it’s one of the best values in dress watches under $1,000 and will easily pair with anything from jeans to a suit and tie. Available in several dial colors, it’s like a more refined version of the Timex Marlin (see below) — in this case, however, equipped with a Swiss movement and a luminous dial.

Diameter: 34mm

Movement: ETA 2801 hand-wound

Price: $675

Shop Pre-Owned: ebay.com

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Timex Marlin Hand-Wound


If you’ve never experienced the charm of a thin, handwound watch, rejoice — you’re young and have your whole life ahead of you. Also, however, if you’re on a budget, you should buy one of these. The Timex Marlin Hand-Wound is a precise recreation of a dress watch from the 1960s, complete with a 34mm case, a simple dial with a funky, midcentury typeface, and a leather strap. Everything you need, nothing you don’t — all for under $200.

Diameter: 34mm

Movement: Hand-wound

Price: $199

Shop Pre-Owned: ebay.com

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Cartier Tank Solo XL


One of the most iconic watches of all time, the Cartier Tank is almost like a tuxedo for the wrist. While it comes in a number of versions, the Tank Solo XL is a particularly classic look, has an automatic Cartier 1847 MC movement inside, and is the brand’s most affordable mechanical watch for men. Don’t be confused by the “XL” moniker — this is still a modest-wearing watch at 31mm wide, about 41mm in length, and under 8mm thick.

Diameter: 31mm

Movement: Cartier 1847 MC automatic

Price: $3,550

Shop Pre-Owned: ebay.com

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Hamilton Intra-Matic


The Intra-Matic is consistently one of our favorite dress watches under $1,000. Essentially a reissue of a Hamilton watch from the ’60s, the it delivers retro-inspired looks by way of a radiant sunburst dial, a thin bezel and case, and a Hamilton’s vintage “H” logo. The Intra-Matic was recently updated with more dial options, which include this fumé style. Inside beats an ETA 2892-2 automatic movement, and two cases diameters — 38mm and 42mm — are available.

Diameter: 38mm; 42mm

Movement: ETA 2892-2 automatic

Price: $895

Shop Pre-Owned: ebay.com

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Longines Flagship Heritage


Longines is quietly making beautiful, refined watches that truly deserve to be seen in person. This new Flagship Heritage has a conservative but warm vibe with a that hearkens back to decades past. It’s powered by an ETA 2895 automatic movement and has a classic appeal, with a thin 38.5mm case that’ll slide right under a cuff.

Diameter: 38.5mm

Movement: ETA 2895 automatic

Price: $1,675

Shop Pre-Owned: ebay.com

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Nomos Orion 38 White


The Orion is one of the watches that helped put Nomos on the map back in the ’90s, and it’s as handsome today as it was when it first debuted. What has changed in this version is a bump in size to 38mm from the original’s 35mm, giving it a bit more appeal to men with larger wrists. Driving the watch is Nomos’s Alpha caliber, the company’s first in-house effort and a manually wound movement.

Diameter: 38mm

Movement: Nomos Alpha hand-wound

Price: ~$2,371

Shop Pre-Owned: ebay.com

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Citizen Eco Drive One


The Citizen Eco Drive One is an outlier among the mechanical watches on this list, an unexpectedly high-end product from the famed Japanese brand. At an incredible 2.98mm, it’s the world’s thinnest light-powered watch and features Citizen’s own metal and ceramic composite called cermet for the bezel. It’s not only dressy and hassle-free, but also technically and visually interesting.

Diameter: 38.25mm

Movement: Solar-powered quartz

Price: $2,600+

Shop Pre-Owned: ebay.com

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Ophion 786 Vélos


The classic design of the 39mm-wide Ophion 786 is based on early Breguet pocket watches from the late 1700s but features the brand’s own twist. In its newest version, the watch is available with Arabic numerals, striking handsets and beautiful dial executions available in different colors and textures, including guilloché. Even the Technotime movement inside, with an exclusive Ophion bridge design and hand-hammered finish, is intended to reference the Breguet era. These are features often associated with high-end horology, making the Ophion 786 Vélos easy to recommend.

Diameter: 39mm

Movement: Soprod/MHVJ hand-wound

Price: ~$3,310

Shop Pre-Owned: ebay.com

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Grand Seiko Seasons Soko


Grand Seiko has become more than the cult favorite of watch collectors it once was and now enjoys great mainstream enthusiasm. Adored for high levels of finishing and refinement, their watches offer remarkable value, even at luxury prices. The beautiful new Grand Seiko Seasons Soko is a US-exclusive model with a gorgeous dial inspired by bamboo and the brand’s innovative Spring Drive movement, representing Grand Seiko’s typical approach of high refinement and strong value.

Diameter: 39mm

Movement: Grand Seiko Spring Drive 9R65

Price: $5,000

Shop Pre-Owned: ebay.com; thewatchbox.com

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date


The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master debuted over 25 years ago, and with it came the brand’s “1,000 Hour Control” test, where each watch was tested for 1,000 hours for accuracy and durability before being delivered to customers. It’s just one reason why Jaeger-LeCoultre stealthily offers such a great watch; the rest comes down to details like the slim 40mm case, the expert finishing on the JLC Caliber 899AC inside and the refined dial of this Master Control Date model.

Diameter: 40mm

Movement: Jaeger-LeCoultre cal. 899AC automatic

Price: $6,700

Shop Pre-Owned: ebay.com

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Slim d’Hermés


The Slim d’Hermés features elegant numerals in the place of more traditional hour markers, which are the work of French graphic designer Philippe Apeloig, done exclusively for Hermés. Apart from being elegant and unique, the watch features an in-house ultra-thin movement from Hermés and comes in a sleek 39.5mm case.

Diameter: 39.5mm

Movement: Hermès H1950 hand-wound

Price: $7,650

Shop Pre-Owned: ebay.com

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Parmigiani Fluerier Tonda 1950


Though not so well-known outside watch circles, Parmigiani Fleurier makes some incredible high-end watches. The Tonda 1950 is one of the brand’s simpler designs, featuring a 40mm stainless steel case and an opaline-finished dial, with an in-house automatic movement that’s just 2.6mm thick.

Diameter: 40mm

Movement: Parmigiani Fleurier PF701 hand-wound

Price: $9,800

Shop Pre-Owned: ebay.com

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A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin


German watchmaker A. Lange & Söhne is likely on many a watch fanatic’s bucket list of brands to own, due to the fantastic fit and finish of its watches. When in 2016 it announced its most affordable piece to date, the Saxonia Thin 37mm, the barrier to entry got a little easier to clear. The watch case itself is incredibly thin (and comes in either pink or white gold) and features a minimal dial, three hands and an exhibition case back to show off the incredible movement finishing inside.

Diameter: 37mm

Movement: Lange & Söhne cal. L941.1 hand-wound

Price: ~$18,394

Shop Pre-Owned: thewatchbox.com, ebay.com

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Green Dive Watches and More Are Seiko’s First Releases of 2021

No fewer than five watches kick off a year that will likely see plenty more releases marking Seiko’s 140th anniversary. The smattering of new models come from the Prospex, Presage and Astron collections, featuring variations on existing watches but tied together by a common theme of showing different “faces of Japan.” Each represents a cool new variant with striking use of color and limited production.

Prospex SPB207

seiko

Seiko

Most exciting for many Seiko fans will be the two automatic dive watches hailing from the Prospex collection. They follow a Seiko convention of releasing a premium model alongside a more accessible one and are both modern reinterpretations of a vintage watch from 1968, but the SLA047 is well under half the price of its sibling.

The SPB207 has features familiar common to mid-tier Prospex watches like sapphire crystal, the in-house automatic 6R35 movement (3Hz, 70-hour power reserve), 200m of water resistance and a case diameter of 42mm. Like the other Prospex models in this release, its green and black colorway is said to take inspiration from Iriomote island in Okinawa. It’s limited to 6,000 examples and will be available in the US alongside the other Prospex and Presage watches in this release starting April 1, 2021.

Price: $1,350

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Prospex SLA047

seiko

Seiko

The above diver’s big brother in every way, the SLA047 is significantly more premium, pricey and boldly sized. Though its design looks very similar to the SPB207, it’ll have a different presence in person with its large case measuring 44.3mm wide. It’s water-resistant to 300m and houses a higher-end movement developed especially for dive watches that offers a a 50-hour power reserve. It’s limited to 3,000 examples.

Price: $3,200

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Prospex Solar SSC807

seiko

Seiko

A relatively inexpensive option in the lineup is a quartz chronograph featuring Seiko’s solar charging tech and a power reserve indicator. Its color scheme is further highlighted by the contrast of black subdials against its green dial, and it measures a prominent 44.5mm. With a water resistance of 200m and a sapphire crystal, the SSC807 is limited to 4,000 examples.

Price: $750

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Presage SPB205

seiko

Seiko

Here’s something quite different: the SPB205 has a distinctly urban feel. The Presage line’s Sharp Edge series feature dials with interesting, angled textures. With a 39.3mm black coated steel case contrasting with a copper-like tone to its dial, the brand says the look is based on the Tokyo skyline at dawn. It’s powered by the same 6R35 automatic movement as mentioned above and is limited to 4,000 examples.

Price: $1,150

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Astron GPS Solar SSH083

seiko

Seiko

With the latest GPS and solar-charging, the new Astron has a black-coated steel case and purple dial with a sparkling effect. The inspiration is said to be cherry blossom viewing at night, but the night sky effect also seems to reference Seiko’s use of satellites with its highly practical GPS technology. It features the newest such tech with the brand’s 5X53 movement in a reasonably wearable 42.7mm case (considering all that’s going on inside). Limited to 1,500 examples, the SSH083 will be available February 1, 2021.

Price: ~$3,000

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