All posts in “Uncategorized”

Best Made Co.’s Founder Shares the Things He Carries Every Day

In 2009, while the Great Recession was in its throes, Peter Buchanan-Smith responded by turning away from his design career — his former clients include Isaac Mizrahi, David Byrne and Brian Eno — and toward the workshop in his backyard. When he came out, he had a hand-crafted axe, the story of that tool and the makings of an American lifestyle brand.

[embedded content]

Now, nearly ten years later, that brand, Best Made Co., offers toolboxes, cast iron pans, notebooks and yes, axes. It’s an impressive collection of general store-style goods that are, in their own ways, equal parts beautiful and practical. We recently had the chance to sit down with Buchanan-Smith to discover the items that he finds a use for on a daily basis, and the stories that go along with them.

The EDC Items We Can’t Live Without

Some favor flair, others prefer practical. The collection of things that gets us through the day-to-day is a mini representation of who we are and how we move through life. Here are the everyday carry items we can’t live without. Read the Story

Kickstart Your Vintage Watch Habit With These Three Affordable Pieces

Vintage watch collecting tends to focus itself on owning the rarest, most obscure and most valuable pieces, but it’s the cheap, ubiquitous pieces that get you into the hobby in the first place: The Bulovas. The Seikos. The Timexes. They may not have much to offer in the way of rarity, but they’re still charming watches in their own right and will get you well on your way to snatching up as many old-school watches as you can. Here are three you can get right now, in great shape, available for $500 or less.

Tissot Seastar Seven

What we like: With a sleek steel case, a radiant dial and a date complication, the Seastar Seven is a simple, autoamtic watch that you can wear everyday. As an added geeky bouns, this one is branded “Türler,” which is a notable watch retailer form Switzerland. Not bad for just under $400.
From the seller: Notice the asymmetric date aperture, pencil hands and very clean original dial. The 35mm. steel case with recessed crown and down-turned lugs looks very good. The automatic winding TISSOT movement was just cleaned and is accurate.

Bulova Sea King “A”

What we like: This water-resistant, time-only watch from Bulova is about as simple as they come. We love the big, legible Arabic numerals, the off-white dial and the watch’s slim and compact stainless steel case. This one will require hand-winding on a daily basis, but that only adds to the charm.
From the seller: Fantastic original condition overall with only minor honest wear consistent with age and light use. Solid stainless steel case is razor sharp and completely unpolished with the original finishes intact. Beautiful original eggshell dial with attractive yellow patina to the Tritium luminous elements.

Seiko 6309-7049

What we like: Once a poorly-kept secret amongst watch nerds, old-school Seiko tool watches are growing in popularity and value, but you can still get them at reasonable prices for the time being. This 6309 is the original variant of the brand’s recent (and well-received) “Turtle” and has the faded rotating bezel as proof of its age and utility.
From the seller: Original black Seiko and Suwa-signed dial. This 6309 has the lesser-seen dial variant, the “Suwa” dial. Original hefty 44mm stainless steel cushion case in pre-loved condition. Matching original caseback, which has scratches on it from previous misguided attempts to open it before it arrived to us.

A Guide to Watch Case Shapes and Designs

That the case is a vital component of a watch sounds…pretty obvious, given that it protects the movement inside, but it’s also important from a design standpoint. A case, probably more than any other aspect of a watch, has the most bearing on a timepiece’s overall look, and some timepieces are instantly recognizable only because of their case shapes. But as distinctive as a watch case can look, it will almost always fall into one of a handful of categories. What follows are those categories, so when you hear someone refer to a watch as having a “tank” or “tonneau” case you can know what the hell they’re talking about.

Round

The vast majority of wristwatches out there use a type of watch case which we’ll simply refer to as “round” – no fancy names or interesting stories here. Round cases just make sense when a circular display is the clearest way to show and read time, and as such you’ll see everything from dress watches to divers to field watches to chronographs in them. Round cases generally exude a sense of minimalism, indicating that there was no unnecessary material used.

Rectangular (Tank)

The Cartier Tank, released in 1917 and with a shape inspired by the Renault tanks used in WWI, was more or less rectangular, but it proved so influential that many enthusiasts colloquially refer to similarly-shaped dress watches as “tanks.” Regardless, the Tank came about early on in the wristwatch’s existence, and many other watchmakers like Jaeger-LeCoultre, Hamilton and Gruen also produced rectangular designs, making the shape incredibly popular during the early decades of the 20th century. Rectangular watches are much less common today, and those that do exist are mostly throwbacks to those early wristwatches.

Square

Like the rectangular watch, the square watch was far more common back in the early and mid-20th century. The style was common on slim, elegant dress watches from brands like Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin, though as the ’70s came along, some watchmakers utilized the square case for sports watches – the Heuer Monaco is probably the most recognizable example. Square watches have made a small but notable resurgence as watchmakers continue to pay homage to that era in watchmaking and because today, where the round watch remains supreme, a square makes much more of a statement.

Cushion

You can think of the cushion-cased watch as a squircle, characterized by a squarish profile but with rounded edges and bowed-out sides. The style was featured prominently on the original Panerai Radiomir in the 1940s, and subsequently, it’s most commonly been seen on divers and other sports watches, though you’ll find it on dress watches from time to time. The term cushion is often used interchangeably with “tonneau,” and while there are some similarities, they are technically two different shapes.

Tonneau (Barrel)

The word tonneau is French for “barrel,” and the overall profile of a tonneau is a rectangle-shaped case with rounded corners and bowed-out edgeswhich looks, in fact, barrel-like. So the tonneau is a close relative to the cushion case, but the overall shape is taller and longer. On dress watches, this gives the timepiece some art decco vibes, though the style was exceedingly common on chronographs and dive watches from the late ’60s and early ’70s.

Asymmetrical

Most asymmetrical cases look, at first glance, like your typical round case. But look closer and you’ll see the crown-side of the case is ever-so-slightly wider than the other. The idea is to provide a little extra shrouding for the watch’s crown and stem (and pushers, if its a chronograph), much like the crown guard on a dive watch. One of the most recognizable watches of all time, the Omega Speedmaster, in fact, has an asymmetrical case, but other tool watches – the single-crown Universal Geneve Polerouter, the Benrus Type 1 and the CWC Chronograph to name a few – feature a similarly asymmetrical case design.

Avant-Garde

This is more of a “choose-your-own-adventure thing” than a category with specific parameters. While most watch cases tend to fall into one of the aforemtioned, there are some that completely throw convention out the window. The advent of the bold, avant-garde case shape might be best characterized by the Hamilton Ventura, as well as the other Richard Arbib watch designs from the ’50s. Today, avant-garde cases are most commonly seen in high-end mechanical timepieces from independent brands like MB&F and Urwerk.

Iconic Watch Bracelets

grey_placeholder

While watch collectors are truly spoiled for choice these days as far as strap and bracelet options are concerned, there are certain classic options that have stood the test of time and don’t seem to be losing popularity. Read the Story

These Three Simple Vintage Watches Work for All Occasions

Amassing a large collection is great, but there’s something to be said about simplifying things and having one timepiece that can work for all occasions. For that, seek out a simple, time-and-date only stainless steel watch designed with utility in mind. This makes for a watch great for both formal and casual situations. There are many new watches out there that fit this description, but even on the vintage market you can find some fitting timepieces.

Longines Admiral

What we like: The Longines Admiral “Five Star” is about as simple as they come, boasting just the time and date and a sleek stainless steel case which is exactly what makes it so versatile. This example is, according to the seller, in all original condition, including the bracelet. One small styling flourish we love, though: the satin-brushed dial, which gives the timepiece just enough texture.
From the seller: Stainless steel case with original Longines crown and original gray satin dial. The Longines bracelet (by Champion) is also original, fitting up to a 6.5-inch wrist. Excellent overall condition and are without any major flaws whatsoever.

Omega Seamaster 2000

What we like: There are really two kinds of Seamaster: the chunky, 300-meter divers and the sleek, water-resistant dress watches. The Cosmic 2000 is somewhere in the middle. It doesn’t have a bezel and has an overall simple case design, but the watch was designed with larger gaskets allowing for a 60-meter water-resistance. We wouldn’t test that today, but that fact alone lends itself to the Cosmic’s casual/dressy duality.
From the seller: Dial in good condition with slight traces of use. Case is in very good condition. Fully operational and checked for performance, authenticity and functionality.

Rolex Air-King

What we like: It’s not that the Air-King is an unloved watch, it just happens to be overshadowed by the rest of the brand’s very stong lineup. Still, it’s a delightfully simple piece, with no functions other than date, and a clean dial design. Still, it boasts (well, boasted) lume, and Rolex’s lauded Oyster case design, so it still has some of the tool watch bonafides you’d expect even from the simplest Rolex.
From the seller: The watch is in excellent condition throughout, with no obvious flaws or marks; case shows signs of light wear. Matte black Rolex dial is in excellent condition with crisp printing and a lovely even patina to the luminous material. Rolex pencil hands are in excellent condition with matching patina. Rolex Crown; Rolex screw case back.

This England-Made Brass Lighter Combines Form, Function & Flame — And We Want One.

We’re firmly in the age of odd, frivolous, aesthetically-pleasing things selling for lots of money — late capitalism, as some call it, or a “product renaissance” according to others. And this pocket lighter from UK startup Knnox is absolutely a product of our time. It comes with a neat story, though — it’s the first lighter to be made entirely within the UK for more than 50 years.

So in spite of it being a seemingly-simple and stripped-down design, this isn’t the most no-nonsense lighter you could buy. In fact it’s far from it; a cheap plastic BIC, while it has a very short lifespan, only costs a couple dollars, and a Zippo that could last you decades can be had for under $20. If you’re looking purely for function, you’re not looking at the Knnox, although it does come with a lifetime warranty, and a design that allows for replacing parts if they get worn out. On top of that, because it’s solid brass, it’s sure to acquire a unique and gorgeous patina with regular use. Pretty tough to get that out of your $3 BIC.

In a world where beautiful things exist alongside the purely functional, we’re sometimes just driven to go for beauty and form — it’s part of our nature. And if you want to appease that nature, well, you’re going to get a lot further with this spirited little piece of panache than you would with something more run-of-the-mill. It’s as simple and as complicated as that.

History Buffs Are Going to Love this Stylish New Collaboration

It kinda stands to reason that a fashion designer with an advanced degree in archaeology would be interested in both ancient history and historically accurate clothing. But Jack Carlson, founder of the young brand Rowing Blazers, hadn’t really fused the two together until he launched his collaboration with British interior designer Luke Edward Hall this week.

Their partnership applies embroidered Greek urns and other results of archeological digs (the mask of Tutankhamen shows up more than once) to the brand’s painstakingly well-made preppy staples, like rugby shirts and oxford cloth button downs. It was born out of their mutual respect for ancient artifacts — and a shared love of bright, bold colors.

“I bought Jack’s book when it was released a few years ago — I was kind of captivated by the photographs of the rowing teams and their brilliant blazers,” Hall told Gear Patrol in an email. “When Jack launched Rowing Blazers as a brand, I became a real fan! We eventually spoke online and met at my studio in London in 2017. The idea of collaborating came about quite naturally and I began working on ideas for motifs. We decided to go with a Greco-Roman vibe (with a hint of Egyptomania) because we’re both very much interested in the classical world. Jack used to be an archaeologist and I often use classical imagery in my work. I’ve loved the Greek and Roman myths since childhood, I find them fascinating.”

In the collaboration, you’ll find everything from a corduroy dad cap with an embroidered bust on it, to a sweatshirt bearing time-worn ionic columns. The pieces range from $25 for a standalone patch to $185 for a heavy cotton rugby shirt whose construction mimics the original jerseys worn when the game was invented.

“My favorite pieces are the striped rugbies,” Hall wrote. “I chose the colorways with Jack and I love the bold, bright results we’ve ended up with. The yellow and white stripe with the embroidered pink classical head is I think my top pick! I love the patches too. I’ve already added them to my favorite denim jacket.”

We’ve added a few of our own favorites below, but you can take a look at the entire collection here.

Luke Edward Hall Sweatshirt with Ionic Columns by Rowing Blazers$125

Luke Edward Hall Oxford with Greek Vase by Rowing Blazers $125

Luke Edward Hall Corduroy Dad Hat with Greek Vase by Rowing Blazers $48

Luke Edward Hall Sweatshirt with Bust by Rowing Blazers $125

Luke Edward Hall Rugby Shirt with Discus Thrower by Rowing Blazers $125

The New Jaguar I-Pace Is Performance-Oriented Enough to Warrant Its Own Racing Series

T

esla’s Model X may be roaming the all-electric SUV plains unchallenged, but a predator in the form of the Jaguar I-Pace is coming to fight for territory. With Audi’s E-Tron right behind it, the I-Pace is going to need to establish some dominance, and what better way for a car to do so than in motorsport?

The Jaguar I-Pace eTrophy is a racing series that will exclusively feature the I-Pace, one that will follow Formula E and race on its same street courses. The main difference here is that this is a car you can buy for yourself. Jaguar’s Special Vehicle Operations will provide the cars to all teams, the first of which to sign on is Rahal Letterman Lanigan Racing. I spoke to former Indianapolis 500 winner and team owner Bobby Rahal about the thought process behind taking an EV people-mover and turning it into a race car.

Q:

What characteristics of the I-Pace make it viable for motorsport competition?

A:

Historically, you look at this type of vehicle and it’s not looked upon as a performance car, it’s looked upon as a people-mover, and the I-Pace is probably the first one that kind of has done both. I think it’s one of those things where people scratch their heads initially before they really have the chance to drive it or see it personally. But now that people have been able to do both, they say “oh, yeah, I get it.” We’re anxious to put the car through its paces.

Q:

How much parity does the race version of the I-Pace have with the road-going version?

A:

Well, like any car or truck or that gets turned into a race car of some type, you pretty much raise the nameplate up and throw a whole new car underneath, but that’s not the case in this situation because the race car is going to be very heavily based on the street car. Of course, there’s going to be safety modifications like a roll-bar and things like that, but I think it’s going to hold pretty true to the production version.

Q:

Do you feel that Formula E has demonstrated an appeal for e-racing and that eTrophy will be capable of the same draw if not more?

A:

With the inclusion of teams backed by Mercedes, Audi, Porsche and Jaguar next season, that’s a heck of a recognition by the industry about the importance of electric and by extension electric racing. In the end, people want to see good racing. I think we’ve already seen it but electric racing is a draw for sure.

Q:

Do you think racing fans (or sports car fans) have room in their hearts for both EV and gas-powered performance? Or is electric on its way to win that fight?

A:

Will it replace other forms of racing? I don’t think so. People want to see electric car racing, they can, if they want to see convention car racing, they can, or they can do both. I think it’s a very important addition to the palate of opportunities for people who follow racing.

Q:

Do you think other EV manufacturers will take notice and come up with their own spec series?

A:

I wouldn’t doubt it. Other manufacturers, who are especially trying to promote their electric products — it would only make sense for them to get involved on some level.

Everything You Need to Know About the Crazy World of Fastpacking

We’re all obsessed with speed. Fast cars, fast trains, fast bikes. Even when a machine doesn’t amplify it, speed is still thrilling; it’s why we idolize Usain Bolt and why Subway hired Michael Phelps to sling sandwiches on its behalf. Those two men are unique in that they’re also the fastest in their respective sports, which is an essential distinction in the world of speed.

To be the best at anything is a remarkable claim to furnish yourself with, and one that was typically reserved for professional athletes in more mainstream sports. This is changing somewhat, thanks to apps like Strava that blend fitness and social media into a format complete with video game-like leaderboards. Acronyms like KOM (King of the Mountain, which refers to the person with the best time on a segment in Strava) and FKT (Fastest Known Time, which is a self-set record typically timed and proven with a GPS) are broadening their use beyond insider jargon.

Traditional endurance activities like running and cycling cater to this style of record-oriented fitness, but it’s leached into the outdoors too. It’s now common for ultrarunners and ultralight hikers to complete routes that could take days in unbelievably small amounts of time. Last fall François D’Haene completed California’s John Muir Trail in two days, 19 hours, and 26 minutes, and in doing so, set a new record. The trail is 210 miles long, and many hikers typically give themselves three weeks to complete it.

Making speed runs of trails doesn’t always have to involve setting an FKT though, and you don’t have to be a professional athlete to attempt to halve or quarter the time it takes to travel over a familiar distance. There’s a name for this too: it’s called fastpacking. Fastpacking, in the most general sense, is figuring out how to carry less stuff so that you can move faster through the wilderness.

To better understand what exactly fastpacking is, we spoke with Andy Anderson. In addition to being an athlete for Mammut, Anderson is a guide, climbing ranger and avalanche forecaster. “I grew up hiking, camping, backpacking, fishing, climbing and running in Tennessee,” he says. “As life has progressed, I’ve gotten more and more into combining those endeavors. I’ve also gotten to be much less of a fan of carrying heavy packs.”

In 2012, Anderson climbed Wyoming’s Grand Teton in two hours, 53 minutes and two seconds; most climbers allot two days for a summit. Anderson also does things like hike from Italy to Switzerland and back the next day; for his bachelor party, he wrangled his friends into doing New Hampshire’s seven-summit Presidential Traverse in a single day.

What Is Fastpacking?

“For me, fastpacking is moving faster through whatever kind of terrain you want to go through — desert, mountains, city trails, whatever that may be — with less stuff. You’re able to cover more distance and do more things but still be comfortable. Moving faster can be harder, but if you’re moving faster because you have less weight that means less impact on your joints.

The one trick to it is you have to have the right experience to know what you can get away with not taking. Most people would say fastpacking involves spending the night out, where trips of less than a day become ‘fast-and-light pursuits.’ Maybe that’s splitting hairs, but they both get lumped into the same category for me.”

Challenges

“The biggest challenge is that people think of these things as a set trip. Take the Presidential Traverse in the White Mountains — that’s a four-day trip, and it’s always been a four-day trip, so you have to do it in four days. With that mindset, then it takes you four days. But if you shift your mind, actually that’s a two-day trip; stay at one of the huts in the middle and take light packs and plan right for the weather. Or you do it as a day trip — that was actually my bachelor party.”

What Gear Do You Need?

“With the improvements in gear in the last decade, you can make some classic trips take a lot less time and take a lot less of a toll on your body.

You need a good pack, and that doesn’t mean your 70-liter, all the bells and whistles, internal-frame pack that’s super comfortable to carry 80 pounds in. It means something light and comfortable. For day trips or hut-supported overnight trips, you can get away with 15-liter packs. If you have to carry a sleeping bag or shelter, that becomes a 20- or 30-liter pack. Look for packs that are less than a kilogram, (one to one-and-a-half pound packs).”

Anderson’s Pick: Lithium Speed 20-Liter Pack by Mammut $100

“The right clothing is super important; things like a light set of rain gear. And then a light insulation layer as well, usually something with Polartec Alpha or something like that.”

Anderson’s Pick: Rainspeed Hardshell Jacket by Mammut $139

Anderson’s Pick: Foraker Insulated Light Jacket by Mammut $200

“And then some sort of super-light sleeping bag. For that, it depends on where you’re going. I’m a big fan of using quilts. You don’t get much insulation out of the bottom of your sleeping bag, and you get it from your pad anyway. I’m not a fan of just sleeping on the ground. Getting a good night sleep makes me able to do this stuff.”

Anderson’s Pick: Revelation Quilt by Enlightened Equipment $290+

Anderson’s Pick: Insulated AXL Air Sleeping Pad by Big Agnes $160+

“If you’re doing food and you need a stove, bring an integrated cooking system. Jetboil makes good ones.”

Anderson’s Pick: MicroMo Stove by Jetboil $130

“Then you need something to shelter under. I’m a big fan of tarps. A lot of companies make tarps with bug inserts; they’re light and strong and very configurable. With a tent you have poles, and it’s always going to be heavier than a tarp. And the lightest shelter of all is the credit card and huts.”

Anderson’s Pick: Flat Tarp by Hyperlite Mountain Gear $355

Advice on How to Start

“The hardest thing to get right is the planning and self-evaluation. I remember a relatively long and involved route on Mount Rainier that I did with a climbing partner called Ptarmigan Ridge. We decided to go fast and light, to not take a stove, to not take a tent, to just take sleeping bags and climbing gear. We didn’t take pads either. It worked, but it was remarkably uncomfortable, and we were really thirsty by the time we got back down because we were relying on warm weather to create dripping snow on a 14,000-foot high glacier. We made it work, but it was more type-two fun. And it was planning on our part — we could have thrown a stove, and sleeping pads in and we would’ve been a lot more comfortable and the trip would’ve been a lot more fun and probably would’ve taken us an extra hour or two.

The thing I learned from that is to think about what’s important to you. Some people sleep great on rocks, and some people don’t. What’s important to you that you’re not willing to compromise on? Plan appropriately around that.

My biggest advice would be to start small and work your way up. Plan on the route that’s appropriate for you and your fitness, as well as your partner’s fitness.”

Resources

“There are tons of internet forums and there’s definitely a culture around it. Do a little searching on the internet and you’ll find lots of opinions and lots of ideas for gear and routes.”

Here are some of the resources that Anderson recommends:
Backpacking Light
Fastest Known Time
Rocky Mountain Ultra

Note: Purchasing products through our links may earn us a portion of the sale, which supports our editorial team’s mission. Learn more here.

Are Electric Mountain Bikes Ruining Trail Systems?

There was a time when mountain bikers were the “drunk uncle” at the outdoor buffet: socially awkward, irreverent, “too noisy, too fast,” outcasts on the dusty lam. Hikers called them out for harshing the trail’s mellow. Conservationists pegged bikes as trail wreckers. Decades later, the once rogue group of trail punks have grown up, are wiser, savvy, and organized. The International Mountain Biking Association (IMBA) has emptied countless tubs of elbow grease advocating for social and physical space on the trails to ensure we have places to ride.

But here we are again. Same story, new bikes. This time weighing the validity of electric-assist bikes on the very same trail systems. The most hesitant to accept electric-assist mountain bikes? Their own breed, mountain bikers.

If electric-assist mountain bikes (e-MTB’s) are new to you, at face value, they’re pretty much what you’d think. A mountain bike pimped with a battery pack and motor, boosting one’s pedal stroke up to 750 watts (capped by a governor). In the States, there are three classifications of e-bikes. (A fourth class exists, but e-bikes capable of speeds above 28 mph pushing out over 750 watts of power are considered a moped/motorcycle).

Class 1: Pedal-assist motor that boosts your pedal speed, but caps at 20 mph.
Class 2: Throttle-assist that can accelerate the bike up to 20 mph without pedaling.
Class 3: Pedal-assist bike that caps your throttle speed at 28 mph.

The parsing of power aside, e-bikes have a motor, and indisputably put e-MTBs in the motorized space — a space mountain bikers lobbied hard to distance themselves from some 30 years ago when they successfully splintered mechanized from motorized transportation on managed land.

And it all harkens back to legislation passed in 1964.

The original draft of the Wilderness Act was passed by President Lyndon B. Johnson to preserve wild land as untrammeled by man and “motorized transport.” Mind you, this was ten years before the Marin County crew squeezed ballooning tires under their klunkers — fat tires were nowhere near the map. But once they were, riders were pedaling off into miles of wild terrain, out onto wilderness trails, and into confrontations with, well, everyone else. Congress banned bikes in wilderness areas in 1977. But 1984 marked the boiling point on managed land when the travel classification was revisited and “motorized” was rolled back to include all “mechanized” transportation. For the first time, mountain bikes were legally tagged as outliers. The change in stature drew a line in the dirt, and local land managers followed suit, lumping bikes with motorized vehicles on non-wilderness trails. It took heaps of advocacy and stacks of environmental studies, but the IMBA steadily wrestled mountain bikes back onto many of our local trails.

But now comes along a motor. Neither a bike nor a motorcycle. For some, the two-wheeled electric assist mountain bikes fall in that head-scratching space reserved for the duck-billed platypus. Naysayers denounce the Johnny-come-lately, waxing on about cheating, Strava doping, trail destruction and reckless riding. If this resonates, you’re not the target audience. “You gotta remember how happy you were when you were introduced to mountain biking for the first time,” shared Sam Benedict, Marketing Leader at Specialized, “but let’s not be ‘that sport.’ Getting people out on the trails is a good thing!”

The industry sees e-MTBs as a leveler, enabling disparate abilities to ride together. The assist lures otherwise wary riders into a sport perceived as “too hard.” The biggest proponents of e-MTBs? Resorts. A pedal full of watts lets flatlanders level up quickly at altitude. No surprise, the e-MTB offers the potential for more summer visitors and an increased bottom line during the resort off-season.

And e-bikes are the fastest growing sector in the bike market — an industry that was valued at over $800 million in 2017, and has a predicted 6% growth each year through at least 2025. With Specialized, Trek and BMC clearly in the game, a flood of e-bikes is being released into the market. Riders are looking for paydirt. So you might think all these new riders would equate to more power through voices in trail advocacy and be welcomed with open arms by IMBA, who’ve tirelessly worked to educate the public about mountain bikes and preserve trail space. But you’d be wrong.

“First and foremost, we advocate for access for traditional, non-motorized mountain bikes. IMBA does not advocate for access for e-MTBs,” stated IMBA Executive Director, Dave Wien’s, in the IMBA’s position statement. While the IMBA has warmed up to the idea of Class 1, pedal assisted e-MTBs on non-motorized trails, by and large, they’ve stayed out of the fray and left the access discussion to local land managers and bike clubs. The IMBA’s primary concern? Protecting their hard-fought trails from being taken away and preventing the slippery slope of motorcycles getting back onto the quiet trail system.

The federal government has deemed Class 1 e-bikes as exempt from motorized vehicle classification, but they’ve also left the decision to local land managers. The US land management agencies (namely the National Park Service, BLM and US Forest Service) consider any e-MTB as motorized, banning e-MTBs on non-motorized trails on public lands. Which leaves us with local jurisdictions. Pedaling in Delaware, an e-MTB is considered a bike. In Alabama? It’s a motorized bike. Want to bring that same bike to New York? Last year it was illegal (going so far as to confiscate any e-bike and/or fine riders upwards of $3,000). This year, the laws were changed to allow pedal-assist bikes on city streets. To say the least, riding an e-bike is … messy.

So what’s it going to take to enter the circle of trust? For Larry Pizzi, president of Raleigh Electric and chairman of the e-bike committee at People for Bikes, an industry coalition of bicycle suppliers and retailers, it’s going to take small wins. “It starts with classification, otherwise people will default to the worse case,” Pizzi says. The acceptance of distinct classes (armed with data) helped the IMBA have a change of heart, and accept Class 1 e-MTBs on trails.

“Next, we need to demystify the e-bike and get demo’s in the hands of the land managers,” says Pizzi. “Armed with the right information, they’ll make informed decisions.” Most importantly, land managers need to see for themselves the environmental and social impact of e-MTBs.

Pizzi’s last point — and it’s a big one — is to lobby for a change in the classification of motorized to self-propelled. It’s an “if you can’t join them, reinvent yourself” approach that would pull e-MTBs away from the legal definition that’s currently keeping extra watts off managed land.

People are tribal creatures. We gravitate towards like-minded cliques that ferociously embrace imbued values. And nowhere in the outdoor world is this truer than in cycling. Perhaps no amount of physical data will sway the minds of the purist cyclists. Because in the end, it’s a social science, not a hard science.

And hey, I get it. I live in Boise — the new darling of outdoor towns, identified as the “fastest growing town in America.” My once abandoned morning trails now have (gasp!), people! People on foot, people on horses, people on bikes, people on motorcycles. And technology isn’t slowing up, it’s only gaining momentum. Technology has made stravassholes, introduced drones and now put a bit of torque in a bike. “We need to educate, and identify,” shared Benedict. “By working with the government and local land managers, we can classify bikes and instill trail etiquette and stewardship. Together we can draw up sustainable plans and then encourage positive behavior — and change the social perception.” You know, teach us how to share.

Three Vintage Dress Watches That Won’t Cost You a Small Fortune

Vintage tool watches: they’re fun to collect, look cool as hell and they’re all the rage right now. That also means they’re growing in price, making fewer and fewer models truly accessible to would-be collectors. The problem, too, is that most tool watches have long retired from the kinds of wear that would make them practical (I implore you to think twice about swimming with that vintage diver). Vinate dress watches, however, tend to fall on the more affordable end of the spectrum, even if they’re in great shape and are made by respected manufacturers. Here are three you can pick up right now for under $2,000.

Revue Automatic

What we like: Stylistically, this timpiece doesn’t look far off from something you’d see made today — it’s got a sleek silver dial, gold indicies and even a fairly modern-looking logo. But Revue is an obscure watchmaker from the 20th century and this watch is decades old. It may not have a recognizable name (even to watch enthusiasts), but for $750 you’re getting an exceptionally handsome mechanical watch for not a ton of money.
From the seller: Case is in very good overall condition with some signs of age and use. Dial is in very good condition with some signs of age, including patina.

Eterna-Matic KonTiki

What we like: The Eterna-Matic was one of the most advanced watches of its time – it utilized an automatic winding rotor with five ball bearings that cut down on friction, aiding in longevity and accuracy. In addition to the sweet movement, this watch rocks a clean, date-free sunburst dial and an original Gay Frères stainless steel bracelet.
From the seller: Very nice original condition overall with honest wear consistent with age and light use; sharp stainless steel case appears to be unpolished with sharp edges and bevels throughout. Gorgeous original silver sunburst dial with all lume plots present and aged to an attractive yellow hue; original hands with all luminous material intact and matching. Original domed acrylic crystal with Eterna logo etched in the center.

Universal Genève Polerouter

What we like: The Polerouter was an early Gerald Genta design and one of the first watches to rock an automatic movement with a micro-rotor, making it incredibly thin. Yet despite this, you can regularly find them for under $2,000. This one appears to be in excellent condtion, and like the Eterna-Matic you see above, still comes affixed to its original Gay Frères bracelet.
From the seller: This is a used watch so assume that it may have few scratches and light dents. Functions all running well. No box or papers.

Three Oddball Vintage Watches From Big Names In Watchmaking

Integrated bracelets: the concept of combining a watch bracelet and case into one cohesive design. The practice was made famous by Gerald Genta and the iconic AP Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus, but today we rarely see this design practice (apart from a few super-high end offerings). Back in the ’70s, though, this was a far more common practice, embraced by other big names in watchmaking (we’re talking Heuer, Omega and Rolex to name a few). To them, the style never really spread beyond that decade, and today the watches remain oft-forgotten oddballs on the vintage market.

Omega Seamaster Cosmic 2000

What we like: The Seamaster name graced a variety of watches back in the day, but this Seamaster Cosmic 2000 variant might be the most peculiar. The watch features a sleek integrated design and is adorned with a rotating dive bezel (this despite the fact that the Cosmic 2000 was only ever given a 60-meter depth rating). Still, given this piece has aged well past the point of being a useful underwater time-teller, thus making it a rare wrist accoutrement that doesn’t cost all that much.
From the seller: Movement is fully functional, tested for originality and function.

Heuer Daytona

What we like: You know the Carrera. The Autavia. Probably even the Monza and Camaro, too. But did you know that Heuer also made a Daytona? Yes, and Heuer went out of its way to make it as different as possible from that other Daytona. Thus, it has a brushed, rounded case and an integrated bracelet design, considerably different from Rolex’s offering. The black-to-blue gradient dial is another standout feature that’s relatively rare to find on watches from this era.
From the seller: Case is in very good condition overall with moderate signs of use and wear in keeping with age. Dial is in very good condition with crisp printing and signs of age, including patina to the luminescent elements. Signed crown. Case back has some signs of use and wear in keeping with age.

Rolex Datejust 1530

What we like: Most folks know that Rolex made the OysterQuartz back in the day, and packed up its qurtz effort in a stylish, edgy case design; what few know is that Rolex also used this sexy case design for an automatic, and the reference 1530 Datejust was born. Not many examples were made, and this being a rare vinatge Rolex, they’re highly collectible, anc command “rare vintage Rolex” prices (in this case, around ten grand).
From the seller: This Rolex Date comes w/ Bob’s presentation box, 3-day satisfaction guarantee and one-year warranty.

The Most Iconic Watch Bracelets of All Time


Some watch bracelets are instantly recognizable, even outside the diehard collector’s community. Here’s a look at seven of the most popular. Read the Story

You Probably Have Supercar Tech On Your Family Sedan and Don’t Even Know It

“Aerodynamics are for people who can’t build engines.” It’s hard to imagine that this is the opinion of the legendary Enzo Ferrari, seeing as how cars that bear his name are some of the most aerodynamically complex creations on the road today. But then it’s also easy to understand how Mr. Ferrari couldn’t wrap his head around how far aerodynamic science would progress after his lifetime. The dark arts of downforce and aerodynamics were created for the world of motorsport, but have since made their way into the mass market, where they do more than simply push cars into the ground, amplifying grip like an invisible hand. No longer do aerodynamics consist of just rudimentary spoilers and splitters bolted on the front and back of the car, either. Today, active aerodynamics — moveable wings, ducts and vents controlled by sensors and computers — have made their way from the high-speed test ground of race tracks to extraordinarily advanced and expensive supercars to almost every segment of the consumer car mass-market.

In the mid-60s, wings were added to race cars — first in the American Can-Am series and then, more famously, on the global Formula 1 stage. Initially, aerofoils were simple and mounted directly to the body, chassis or suspension, often with one or two at the front and one large one at the back. Then, Jim Hall, Can-Am racing legend and one of the most innovative race car designers of the 20th century took it a step further with his now infamous Chaparral 2J “sucker car.” The car was powered by a monster 650 horsepower 427 cubic-inch Chevrolet engine, but sticking out of the back of the car were two fans powered by an auxiliary snowmobile engine, which together worked to suck more than 9,600 cubic-feet of air per minute out from under the boxy 2J. Combined with the effect of plastic side skirts connected to the suspension through a complex cable and pulley system, those fans helped the car generate 2,200 lbs of downforce, enabling it to take corners at a then-incredible 1.5g.

A sketch of the Chaparral “sucker car” with its two fans out back.

Despite the obvious potential of these advances, and to the frustration of the designers and engineers in motorsport, time and time again the sport’s sanctioning bodies implemented rules and regulations that killed the use of aerodynamic tricks in the name of keeping a fair and level playing field. Conversely, off the track and on public roads, while there are regulations governing how high your headlights have to be and even how big the gap has to be between the top of the engine and the hood, aerodynamics are fair game.

Outside of racing, active aerodynamics on production cars have enjoyed sporadic appearances in the mainstream market, initially appearing on what many people consider the first modern supercar, the 1986 Porsche 959. The 959 featured a speed-activated aerodynamics system that automatically lowered the car a little over two-inches at 95 mph to increase fuel efficiency and stability. For the most part, the art of channeling airflow for downforce and stability was kept to the upper echelon of performance cars.

Top-tech remains more common on cars like the Lamborghini Huracán Performante and Pagani Huayra, which sport incredibly complex active aerodynamics. Those systems consist of individual wings and flaps that raise and lower to add or remove air pressure on one side of the rear wing, tailoring downforce at each corner of the car. Though it’s been a rare sight to see active aero systems on cars the general population could actually contemplate owning, it continued for decades to happen occasionally. Both the 1988 Volkswagen Corrado and the 1990 Mitsubishi 3000GT had automatically adjusting rear spoilers, for example.

These days, you’re just as likely to see active aero as fuel saving tech on cars like the Toyota Prius.

But today active aerodynamics actually are more common than ever on more attainable cars: the Alfa Romeo Giulia Quadrifoglio and BMW 3 Series Gran Turismo utilize active rear spoilers, and companies like Mazda are currently looking into new technologies, all in the name of performance. More practical applications are widespread as well. The active grille shutters on the Toyota Prius, Chevy Cruze and a hand full of Cadillacs lower aerodynamic drag and thus improve fuel efficiency.

The Porsche 959’s simple active aerodynamics system made its way to the masses after decades, but in the automotive world, the time delta between technology development and widespread adoption is decreasing. It’s only a matter of time before the ultra-aggressive components Lamborghini and Pagani have put on the road trickle down to every family crossover. If Enzo Ferrari were alive today to see where science has steered his industry, he might revise his original quote. Aerodynamics aren’t for people who can’t build engines — they’re for people who can’t see any other way forward.

Before You Buy Running Shoes, Consider the Foam

From Issue Six of Gear Patrol Magazine.
Discounted domestic shipping + 15% off in the GP store for new subscribers.

Foam has become the single most important aspect of a running shoe, for both performance and marketing. Every sneaker superpower has its own premium version, and all claim to have the best available. Brands continue to push the needle toward softer yet more durable foams that will give you the most comfortable run possible, while also offering the most energy returned over the course of the 300 to 500 miles that make up the life of a sneaker.

Some companies are pushing the boundaries by creating proprietary foams backed with their own athlete-driven data; others simply license out foams developed by large chemical engineering companies. Regardless of the methods of innovation, the race for the “best” foam is driving advancements left and right, giving you, the runner, more options than ever before.

To get a better understanding of what’s actually going on inside these shoes — and to see if there are apparent differences — we decided to gather a bunch of ‘em and, well, chop them in half. And then we asked product people from each brand to tell us what exactly we were looking at. Remember, though: there’s no better way to figure out what shoe will work best for you than getting out there and trying them on yourself.

Adidas Boost

“The TPU foam is both compressible and springy, [and] provides energy return, durability and temperature resistance. The EVA provides comfort, weight and smooth transition, to help you run longer more comfortably,” Matthias Amm, Product Category Director for Adidas Running says.

New Balance Fresh Foam

“We actually have soft and smooth Fresh Foam and then an even softer and smoother Fresh Foam. The 1080 is our premium cushioned shoe with informed data around higher mileage, plush cushioning and a wider base for inherent stability,” Claire Wood, Strategic Business Unit Manager for New Balance Performance.

Nike Epic React

“This is the softest, most responsive foam we’ve created to date. It’s a synthetic rubber-based foam. We created [the compound] with our team of chemists back in Oregon, and with data from elites, output an algorithm of design you see [in the shoes]. It took 400 iterations over 17,000 miles.” Ernest Kim, Director of Advanced Footwear for Nike Running.

Reebok Floatride

“You impart such forces on foam, it’s a balance between cushion and give back material. And elastic properties of materials really help,” Matt Montross, Director of Development of Advanced Concepts at Reebok.

Saucony Everun

“Everun as a material is a two-step process. We start with a TPU, [it’s] solid, we heat it up and inject gas into it, extrude it into a pencil size shape and slice it into little pieces to form foam beads like tic tacs. We pour those into the mold that we want the final midsole to be and run steam through it so all the beads melt together,” Spencer White, Vice President of Human Performance and Innovation Lab at Saucony.

Brooks Glycerin 16

“How do we create the most runnable cushion experience? DNA Loft is a blend of proprietary EVA compound in the ultimate runnable soft experience,” Bennett Grimes, Product Line Manager for Brooks.

Porsche’s New Drop-Top Is an Ode to Some of the Prettiest Roadsters Ever Made

Back in 1948, Porsche built the 356 Nr. 1, its first prototype. And it was good. Then, in 1952, Porsche built the 356 1500 America Roadster. It, too, was good. Then came the 356 Speedster. Then in 1988, the Porsche 911 Speedster. In 2010, Porsche made yet another 911 Speedster. These were all good, as fast, drop-top Porsches tend to be. Seeing this trend of Good Cars, Porsche has now added the new Porsche 911 Speedster Concept to the lineage, celebrating the 70 years that have passed since the 356 Nr. 1.

In keeping with that lineage, the new concept is a drop-top with sleeker styling. The windshield, for instance, is much more aggressively raked than a standard 911 convertible. The rear “double bubble” decklid is made from carbon fiber and stretches from the rear light to the back headrests of the seats and conceals the car’s roll bars. There’s no convertible top here, just a removable tonneau roof only meant to be used when the car is stationary.

As an homage to the pure, lightweight Speedsters of Porsche’s past, the concept’s innards are simple compared to most modern 911s you see on the road. The engine, for example, is the 500 horsepower, naturally-aspirated 4.0-liter flat six from the 911 GT3; that’s connected to a six-speed manual gearbox. The interior actually doesn’t have any infotainment system, radio or air conditioning, leaving a gaping hole in the dash. Good.

Right now the car is just a concept, but it’s a driveable one at that and one that doesn’t look terribly far off from production reality. So while right now there are no explicit plans to bring the car into production there’s a faint glimmer of hope that it possibly could if there’s enough interest from the individuals well-heeled enough to actually afford one.

Today in Gear

The best way to catch up on the day’s most important product releases and stories. Read the Story

Found: Three Iconic Vintage Divers You Can Actually Afford

Though the pursuit of creating water-proof watches started decades before, true divers didn’t show up until 1953. The Blancpain Fifty-Fathoms, Rolex Submariner and Zodiac Sea Wolf were all precursors to the divers we have today, both in engineering and design. Today, most dive watches ape the basic look of these early watches, but vintage divers — with their smaller case sizes and imperfect and aged dials — wear the look best. Dive watches from this era today have mostly outlived their lives as actual divers, their gaskets and seals worn and degraded, but they still make a hell of a style statement.

LeGran Nautoscaph

What we like: This is, according to Analog/Shift, an offshoot of the Alsta Nautoscaph made (sorta) famous by the film Jaws. The angular case has a very scant but of-the-era 36mm diameter, and the black dial is adorned with thick plots of luminescent paint. The bezel is adorned with faded numerals on a stainless steel background that are a little hard to read but are cool as hell, regardless.
From the seller: Case is in very good condition overall with moderate signs of use and wear. Dial is in very good condition with patina to the luminescent elements of the hour markers. Unsigned crown. Screw case back shows light tool marks and bears the Nautoscaph hallmark.

Zodiac Sea Wolf

What we like: Released alongside the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms and Rolex Submariner in the early 1950s, the Zodiac Se Wolf was one of the first dive watches ever made. This ’60s version comes with a black dial and beautiful light gray “Bakelite” bezel insert, a relatively hard-to-find feature. At 35mm it’s incredibly compact, but back in the day, it was one of the most dependable divers on the market, making it a favorite in the US military.
From the seller: This is a very nice condition example, featuring a 35mm diameter case, gray bakelite elapsed time bezel, and very nice condition original glossy black dial with raised indexes. Fully serviced and detailed.

Omega Seamaster 300

What we like: Though the Seamaster name had been used years before, in 1957 Omega introduced the brand’s first true dive watch, the Seamaster 300. It’s a handsome design, boasting “twisted” lugs and a matte black dial and bezel, which have faded with tome along with the light beige lume.
From the seller: Case shows light wear from use. Hands have aged shades lighter and appear to be newer service units. The watch is running at COSC spec.

The LEGO Bugatti Chiron Is Nearly as Complex as the Real Thing

Last week, Bugatti delivered the 100th Chiron to a customer in Middle East. The hyper-insane hypercar company will build only 500 Chirons total, and each costs several million dollars. But, if you build a Chiron yourself it’ll only cost you 350 bucks, thanks to the wizards at LEGO Technic. Technic is a series of more complex — or, you know, technical — sets from the building-block manufacturer; its previous automotive models include a Porsche GT2 RS ($300). But what’s most impressive is that these are in many ways actual, working models.

The LEGO Technic Chiron’s W16 engine features pistons that move; inside the cockpit are paddle shifters that click and clack; the rear wing is adjustable, as in the actual car; in the storage compartment, you can place custom Bugatti luggage. At 22 inches long, the 5,599-piece model is certainly not a build to be taken lightly. And, truthfully, I wager you’ll actually have more fun owning this one than the real thing. (Though if you do own one, please email me.)

Read our review of the Chiron here — “it spins the world beneath its tires.”

Today in Gear

The best way to catch up on the day’s most important product releases and stories. Read the Story

The Best Modern Automotive Designs in the World Come from Sweden and Japan

It’s certainly a bold statement to make, but it’s fairly easy to back up: the best current car and motorcycle design in the world is coming from Sweden and Japan. More specifically, Volvo and Mazda are holding things down in the four-wheeled industry, while Husqvarna is a major player from the two-wheeled side of things. The Sweden-based startup Cake, making electric motorcycles reinforces the argument.

Ever since Volvo introduced its current design language back in 2013-2014 and brought it to production on the current generation XC90 and S90 in 2015, I’ve been adamant in saying they’re the best-looking cars on the road, by far. And it’s not just me, the Swedish brand won won multiple awards since. What makes Volvo’s design language stand out, though, is its adaptability. Whether it’s applied to a sedan, wagon, coupe, crossover or three-row SUV, it sits on the road with a subtle elegance and puts the golden ratio and the rule of thirds to work incredibly well. Mind you, Volvo’s design doesn’t shout at you and broadcast this elegance and the luxury behind it — the design aims for a more classy approach, something which can’t be said for its German counterparts.

Mazda follows a similar essentialism approach, but where Volvo’s current lineup relates more to modern architecture in its lines, Mazda’s is more freeform. It might be that hand-formed look that also lets Mazda easily transplant its design language to sedans, coupes and SUVs. You can instantly recognize Mazda’s Kodo design (whether you know it was even named Kodo, or not) the same way Volvo has crafted itself a signature look. Almost every vehicle in Ford or Chevy’s lineup looks nothing like the next model — aside from a similar grille shape, there’s little to no brand cohesion. Mazda deserves recognition because it’s set itself apart in a segment filled with cars overdesigned in an attempt to punch above their weight in the market or grab attention for the brand as if it has something to prove.

In the two-wheeled industry, Husqvarna and Stockholm-based upstart Cake flex Scandinavian design muscle. Yes, Husqvarna motorcycles are owned by the Austrian manufacturer KTM and built in Austria, but the design is pure Sweden. Cake, founded by Stefan Ytterborn (who was a designer at Ikea at one point) and Husqvarna’s new road bike design follow the same essentialist philosophy as Volvo and Mazda — everything you need to get the job done and nothing you don’t.

Where Cake knocks the design of the Kalk all-electric bike out of the park is that its simple, straightforward design matches how the rider interacts with it and how it handles on the road an on the trail. The Kalk’s form and function have an almost symbiotic relationship, working together to make it easier for the bike to achieve its goal of being an easy-to-use, accessible, yet incredibly capable and amusing motorcycle.

It would have been incredibly easy for Husqvarna designers to follow the crowd and drop two vintage-style cafe racers or sport standard bikes. Instead, the Svartpilen and Vitpilen 401 move the genres forward — their modernity is inarguable while still being clear interpretations of the classic and insanely popular cafe racer. Yamaha’s MT line is the clearest example of going in the opposite direction. That doesn’t mean it’s a terrible bike, but it might be the closest thing to an over-designed Honda Civic Type-R on two wheels.

In a landscape where unnecessary character lines are added to the sides of cars to build definition, and either outdated styling or an overabundance of plastic pieces thrown at motorcycles, the level-headed, humble approach to design is what is truly moving the industry forward. The idea of essentialism seems like a vacation in a world of excess and information overload. And if you’re one of the people who look to hit the road as an escape, the Swedes and Japanese are making the best-looking outlets for you.

Mazda Has the Best Looking Car on Display at NYIAS 2018

The best way to catch up on the day’s most important product releases and stories. Read the Story

The SP38 Is an Homage to the Most Legendary Ferrari of All-Time

When the designers at Ferrari don’t have to worry about aerodynamics, they end up creating the most beautiful works of art. It’s a pity then that the cars the designers at Marinello come up with are merely on-off, custom commissions. The latest one-off Ferrari is the SP38. It might be a 488 GTB underneath, but it references the most legendary Ferrari of the last thirty years with subtle nods to another turbo-charged prancing horse icon.

Aside from the more entry-level models, modern Ferraris are designed with aerodynamics as a top priority. The cars that come out of the Marinello factory these days are head-turners for sure, but they’re not nearly as elegant as the Pininfarina-designed models before drag, and low-pressure air pockets became an eyesore for designers. The SP38 on the other hand benefits from the wants and needs of a respected Ferrari customer who wanted to use the turbo-charged 488 GTB to pay homage to two other iconic Ferraris with forced induction: the F40 and 308 GTB.

Gone are the 488 GTB’s massive side scoops and in their place are sleeker more subtle intakes, reminiscent of the F40’s C-pillar vents. Another callback to the F40 is the way the designers deliberately framed the rear end with a rectangle of negative space. What the SP38 pulls from the 308 GTB is the incredibly slim front end, tapered nose and the single wide hood vent — a much more subtle and pretty alternative to the 488 GTB’s nostrils.

It’s a big wonder then that Ferrari doesn’t go back to this simplified, easier on the eyes design. Why not let the designers own the visible space up top and hide the ungainly work of the aerodynamicists underneath the car? With the advances in active aerodynamics and considering how much downforce Ferrari can generate from the bottom of the car alone, it wouldn’t be out of the realm of possibility.

The Car the SP38 Is Based On

Some race tracks are easy to learn, get a hold of. Then there are tracks that take every bit of your concentration just to get around in one piece. Read the Story

The 7 Best Wristwatches for New Graduates

When finding your first gig out of school, there will be a few things on your shopping list. The right garb to master the ever-elusive “business casual.” A good pair of dress shoes. Pens. A padfolio. Those sort of things. But somewhere on that list should be a quality watch.

It may seem unnecessary when you can have an accurate time-telling device in the form of your phone, but there are a couple of good reasons to go with a classic analog timepiece. Wearing a watch conveys a certain sense of punctuality and professionalism when interviewing or while in a meeting. And while you certainly could look at your phone instead, it might see like you’re checking your notifications instead of the time, which comes off as inattentive or rude. A subtle glance at the wrist is just a safer way to go.

In buying your first professional watch (or gifting one to your graduate), strive for something subtle with a hint of personality that reflects both yourself and the atmosphere in which you’ll be working. It doesn’t have to cost a semester’s tuition, too. There are some great pieces with far more attainable price tags — ranging from just over $100 to just under $1,500 — that look at home in the workplace while conveying just the right amount of humility.

Orient Bambino

The Orient Bambino is the perfect example of a watch that looks like a million bucks but costs barely anything (at least as far as mechanical watches go). This “version 3” variant comes with a brilliant metallic gray dial with sunray finishing, a retro-inspired domed crystal and a Japanese-made automatic movement inside.

Movement: Orient F6724 automatic
Case diameter: 40.5mm
Water resistance: 30m

Merci Merci LMM-01

Parisian concept store Merci Merci took its first crack at designing a watch and the LMM-01 is the wonderful result. It feels like a cohesive cross between a classic field watch and a minimalist dress watch, which seems like the perfect kind of timepiece to wear in a younger-skewing, casual office. And at well under $500 and packing a Swiss-made hand-winding movement its one of the best values for money on this list.

Movement: ETA 2801-2 hand-winding
Case diameter: 37.5mm
Water resistance: 50m

Tissot Visodate

Based on an old Tissot design from the 1950s, the Visodate has plenty of mid-century charm without screaming “I want to look like Don Draper!” The 40mm case diameter is relatively reserved in an era of mostly-oversized dress watches and would do well as a wardrobe accent in offices that require business casual attire.

Movement: ETA 2836-2 automatic
Case diameter: 40mm
Water resistance: 30m

Christopher Ward C65 Diver

So many modern divers are difficult to wear professionally since they’re so big, but vintage or modern vintage-inspired divers with smaller proportions work with everything from a t-shirt to a suit. Christopher Ward’s homage to dive watches from the 1960s is an especially good choice; at 41mm around it’s not too big, and thanks to a hand-winding movement it’ll easily slide under a shirt cuff.

Movement: Sellita 210-1 hand-winding
Case diameter: 41mm
Water resistance: 100m

Junghans Max Bill Automatic

If you’re heading into a creative field, there’s a good chance your cohorts will recognize the Junghans Max Bill at first sight. After all, the dial design was penned by one of the greatest designers of the 20th century and has been around, unchanged, since the ’50s. If they don’t, they’ll at least appreciate the Max Bill for what it is: an enduring, minimalist design.

Movement: ETA 2824-2 automatic
Case diameter: 38mm
Water resistance: “splash resistant”

Seiko Presage SPB047

Seiko’s reputation in the US is that of a humble (usually quartz) and well-thought choice of timepiece, but this Presage model comes touting an excellent automatic movement and a dial crafted from enamel, a material usually only found on five-figure Swiss watches. Despite this, the Seiko sports a decidedly under-the-radar design that dresses up well and conveys the aforementioned humility.

Movement: Seiko 6R15 automatic
Case diameter: 40.5mm
Water resistance: 100m

Farer Lander GMT

Lucky enough to score a gig where you get to travel? A GMT is a great timepiece for keeping track of time at home base while at work abroad. While mechanical GMTs usually command a hefty sum (such is the price of a mechanical complication), Farer’s series of automatic GMTs is a much more stomachable $1,425.

Movement: ETA 2893-2 automatic
Case diameter: 39.5mm
Water resistance: 100m
The 30 Best Affordable Watches Under $1,000

Need more inspiration? From $80 to a cool grand, these are the best watches to get when you don’t want to spend a fortune. Read the Story

These 3 Vintage Watches Are the Best Way to Get Into Chronographs on the Cheap

Chronographs are one of our favorite kinds of watches because they’re one of the only complications that feel active. You get to push buttons to activate the thing, and the function was a useful one in motor racing and aviation back when wristwatches were essential pieces of kit. Today you have a plethora of chronographs to choose from but almost all of them, even the cheapest ones, will set you back a couple grand, at least. But turn to the vintage market and you’ll find there are a plethora of them out there for under $1,500. Some can even be found well below a grand.

Seiko 6139-8020

What we like: Despite being one of the first automatic chronographs out there, the 6139 can still be picked up for a song and the movement is also known to be very robust. This 6139-8020 reference appears to be in great condition, and we love the contrasting blue sub-dial and yellow hands on the black dial.
From the seller: Original black dial, with a quite faint hint of patina, and original minute and hour hands, its lume shines. Original 40mm x 42mm stainless steel case. Chronograph pushers depress with a satisfying click, no stick, and reset as designed to zero with no issue.

Atlantic Timeroy

What we like: This bold, ’70s diver doesn’t come from a recognaizable name in watchmaking but it does have all the hallmarks of a solid ’70s sports watch. A two-tone blue-and-silver dial with orange accents. A big, cushion-shaped case. A solid, hand-winding chronograph movement from Valjoux. The addition of the world cities bezel is an interesting touch, allowing the wearer to calculate times for every world time zone.
From the seller: All functions work perfectly and watch has been keeping excellent time. All chrono functions work crisply. This watch was serviced approximately one year ago and is running well.

Luvinos Cal 7733

What we like: A classically-styled chronograph from another lost name in watchmaking. The round case and flat pushers give the watch a clean silhouette and the silver dial is beaitufully accented by a blue five-minute scale in the minutes sub-dial. The watch is powered by a Vlajoux 7733 manual-wind movement which, according to 10:25 vintage, dates the watch to the 1970s.
From the seller: Case is in very good condition overall with moderate signs of use and wear. Dial is in very good condition with crisp printing and some signs of age, including a light stippling of patina throughout. Unsigned crown. Case back is in very good condition.

The 25 Best Chrongoraphs You Can Buy in 2018

grey_placeholder

This comprehensive guide to chronographs the covers history, important terms to know, and the 25 best chronographs you can buy in 2018. Read the Story