This Sustainable New Denim Is Made From Nettle

Pangaia

PANGAIA has pushed for foundational transformation since its inception in 2018. The material innovation company, which moonlights as a clothing brand, wants to reshape several apparel categories with an emphasis on “high-tech naturalism,” a model that calls for using materials naturally abundant instead of those we’ve over industrialized.

So, where’s the tech come in, you’re asking? PANGAIA creates all of the processes and chemistries required to transform these raw materials into functional textiles. Instead of using cotton alone for their new line of denim, for example, they sourced naturally strong Himalayan nettle instead, a material traditionally used for rugs, and blended it with cotton for the new PANGAIA jeans (and jean jacket), which are out now.

“Pangaia is a material science company, so we’re very much driven by innovation,” says Dr. Amanda Parkes, PANGAIA’s chief innovation officer and lead scientist. “We have chosen lifestyle basics for the core of the brand, and we’re motivated to move into different categories more on what innovations are ready and what categories do they belong in, and less like a top down approach.”

Dr. Parkes is talking about sweatpants, T-shirts and sweatshirts — soft, plush basics made from organic cotton primarily. But PANGAIA’s piloted plenty more new materials, too, on a plethora of products: T-shirts made from banana and pineapple waste, graphic inks made from air pollution, sneakers made from grape leather, down jackets filled with wildflowers, to name a few. The jeans, available in two styles, high-rise straight leg and mid-rise straight leg, are just another notch in the company’s metaphorical belt. But why? Aren’t there enough stabs at sustainable jeans already out there?

Fashion-forward yet free from petroleum-based materials.

“We definitely live in this realm of ‘What are the basic essentials?’ and making sustainable versions of those,” Dr. Parkes explains. “The idea of moving into denim was always part of our core brand value system.” The launch was always penciled into their calendar and could come once the innovation was cleared and tested and the design hashed out by someone with experience working in the denim world — cue ex-Levi’s SVP of design, Jonathan Cheung.

He’s an industry veteran — stints at Levi’s, Unspun, Bolt Threads, Gap and now Pangaia included — with a clear focus on designing for the future; that means creating products that are both better-wearing and better for the planet. PANGAIA’s new jeans, the denim design director explains, improve upon current options by avoiding elastane and spandex, employing nettle, a fabric roughly 10 times stronger than hemp (which is already significantly stronger than cotton), and sticking to a traditional design theory.

Both pairs of PANGAIA’s debut jeans are “straight-leg pants, basically,” as Cheung puts it. But there are finer details that reference the ins and outs of denim manufacturing. Made on a loom with a left-hand denim twill construction to counteract the rigidity of the nettle, these have a soft hand-feel and what Cheung calls a “left-hand design language.” The coin pocket’s on the left and there’s a text block tag on the left, too — two features historically saved for the right side of the pants.

Selvedge jeans made sustainably.

The nettle also forced PANGAIA to use selvedge denim. Too tough for newer machines, they went on older shuttle looms, in collaboration with Italy’s Candiani Denim. Complete with their own signature irregularities, what Cheung says experts refer to as “loom chatter,” the jeans show signs of being made slowly — and, of course, with sustainability front of mind.

The jeans are finished on Candiani’s state-of-the-art dying machines, which save both water and dye. Because the fiber’s hollow — like a squished straw, Cheung analogizes — it proves breathable in the summer and insulating in the winter, making it more wearable than most 13-ounce jeans. And that’s what’s most important: You can wear them, and for a long time. In a category rife with greenwashing, Pangaia’s made transparently sustainable and super durable denim approachable. Each pair costs $225, while the jacket costs $295. And although demand may outmatch supply at first, there’s plenty more nettle to transform into denim — and PANGAIA’s overseeing the process into the future.

“The denim jean is the most democratic, inclusive, hard-wearing, long-lasting, and culturally influential piece of clothing in all human history,” Cheung explains. “No other piece of clothing has been worn for so long, by so many people and I’d argue that a simple pair of jeans is the coolest piece of clothing you can own, too. Our work has been like farm-to-table, starting at the plant level to make even better, unique denim. This is just the beginning. We’re literally growing our future jeans right now.”

Mid-Wash Straight-Leg Nettle Denim

Rinse Wash Straight-Leg Nettle Denim

Mid Wash Nettle Denim Jacket

Rinse Wash Nettle Denim Jacket

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New Balance’s Weirdest Sneaker Ever Drops This Weekend

New Balance

“I was very familiar with how shoes made me feel from an early age, so I knew that I wanted to be a part of it,” sneaker designer Salehe Bembury recently told The New York Times. “They made me feel powerful, they made me feel like I could fly.”

The LA-based Bembury’s newest collab, the 574 YURT with New Balance, can’t make you fly. But they do come with a whistle on the heel, which can help you corral your hiking crew, scare off crazed wild animals (if you whistle hard enough) or annoy your friends in a carpool. Your call.

Hikes, particularly in LA, where Bembury moved to for a job on Kanye West’s YEEZY design team, have inspired a handful of his shoes since leaving Versace (where he was VP of Footwear Design) last December. It was when the work stopped that Bembury began appreciating the natural landscape.

“It was almost as if I looked up and noticed my surroundings. I started hiking everyday, camping often, and made nature a consistent part of my life,” Bembury told Bodega. “The drastic change in environment has affected my design work consciously and subconsciously in a very positive way. I would argue that nature and more specifically National Parks of the Southwest is the foundation of my New Balance collaboration.”

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They’re sneakers with a secret whistle.

Bembury, fresh off a successful collab with Anta, views the 574 YURT as a pivotal release — one that combines his love for sneakers and the outdoors, while showcasing his insatiable design curiosity. The latter is what lead him to the whistle idea.

Bembury would kit himself out for these hikes, which usually included friends (or interviewees, as he’d ask them questions and post the conversations on his Instagram Stories). Complete with a bluetooth speaker, weighted vest and whistle to ward off coyotes, he’d ascend LA’s local parks.

His Antas were once his go-to hiking sneaker but the new 574s might soon replace them. They feature a beefier outsole to stock 574s, a new cushioned midsole and durable suede and mesh upper overlays. (And, of course, the whistle on the heel.)

Now, wearers — Bembury included — can kill two birds with one stone: Trek a trail, reach the top, wipe off the whistle and serenade a silent trail (or scare off coyotes, of which there are several hundred thousand in California).

The 574 YURTS in both colors, Forest Green and Shark Skin, are available via Bembury’s own site, Spunge, on October 16th at 9am PST (12 PM EST). They’ll hit New Balance’s online store on October 22nd at 10 AM EST.

574 YURT – Forest Green

Salehe Bembury x New Balance

574 YURT – Shark Skin

Salehe Bembury x New Balance

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Corridor’s New Sneaker Is Perfect for Fall

Corridor

I’ll admit it, I’m not out running trails like those on Gear Patrol’s Outdoors team. Allbirds’ new running shoe made from sugar, wool and tree parts? I’ll leave testing whether or not they work on mile-long trail runs up to them. Crossing town in Corridor’s all-new City Hiker is more my speed.

If you’re like me, straightforward footwear — aka shoes not quite equipped for off-roading — works fine most days. Maybe I’m worried about rain or snow and I’ll step into something water-resistant, but rarely do I ever need to lace all-terrain vehicles to my 10 toes. Like owning an SUV with several different modes, each with functionalities I’ll never fully exert, it’s nice to wear shoes with added elements that make them compatible with mud, sludge, sleet or sawdust even if I don’t intend on going anywhere I’d run into these kinds of conditions.

The City Hiker checks all of these boxes: They’re built in Portugal with a rugged Vibram outsole and a leather body and finished with mesh and suede overlays, gunmetal D-grommets and round, yellow and brown laces. They’re as much an outdoors shoe as they are something you’d wear to the office. The design fits right in alongside down jackets, fleeces, flannels, shell jackets and sneakers with traction-focused tread patterns. The functional gear and fashion convergence continues, and Corridor’s City Hiker is right smack dab in the middle of it. Pencil me down for a pair (or two — maybe one in each color).

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City Hiker – Brown

City Hiker – Black

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The Challenges and Future of Work from Two Different Industries

The world of work, and worksites themselves, are changing at a rapid pace. With new consumers and technologies entering the space almost daily, and even the definition of a “worksite” evolving consistently, the landscape is always shifting. In fact, the workwear industry is a 28.3B market, with growth of 10 percent across the board since 2019.

And while this growth is substantial, and these new consumers reflect new directions for entire industries, what continues to remain the same is that behind every productive workspace there is a dedicated craftsperson, putting their blood, sweat and tears into projects they love.

We partnered with Cat Footwear to go behind the scenes of two modern workplaces and learn more about the craftsman behind them. At a bike shop in Bushwick, Brooklyn and a construction site in Fallbrook, San Diego, we observed what products and gear it takes to successfully work in today’s world and dove deep into the ever-changing landscape of work.

Cole Bennett, Co-Founder Weiss Manufacturing

Gear Patrol Studios

Cole Bennett is the co-founder of Weis Manufacturing, a Brooklyn-based shop producing bespoke handmade bikes unlike anything else available. Bennett and his co-founder Rob Weis started the brand after meeting in college and discovered a shared desire for physical product development. With a combined passion for engineering and art design, Weis Manufacturing was born. We caught up with Bennett at his shop in Bushwick, Brooklyn and observed how he works to make some of the most beautiful bikes available today.

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Gear Patrol Studios

Q: How did Weis Manufacturing get started?

Cole Bennett: “I started Weis MFG when I realized that bikes were my main passion. I decided to stop building frames as a hobby and to take the craft more seriously. Anything else I was doing felt like I was stealing time from developing the Weis brand.“

Gear Patrol Studios

Gear Patrol Studios

Q: How is your shop set up? How does your shop differ from other bike shops or even other general metal fabrication shops?

CB: “My shop is set up for efficiency and precision — all of my tools and machines are organized around process and the smallest number of steps between operations. My shop is different from most metal shops because it is highly specialized — over the years we’ve made custom tooling and jigs that enable us to make some of the best handmade bikes in the world.”

Gear Patrol Studios

Gear Patrol Studios

Gear Patrol Studios

Q: What’s the biggest challenge you faced as a business over the past year? What about personally?

CB: The biggest challenge we faced as a business this last year was managing a big influx of orders on top of massive parts and materials shortages due to COVID.

Q: Where do you see your industry going next? What about your brand specifically?

CB: We are working on new materials, and using new technologies in our frames. We are also working on cross-pollinating with more artists and building out the apparel side of the brand.

Q: How do you balance being an entrepreneur and growing your business while building bikes and pushing their design?

CB: Not well! I would much rather be welding and working on new designs than doing taxes. I have been working on managing my time better and designating parts of the day for running the business vs. fabrication.

Invader Hi Steel Toe Work Boot

Cat Footwear

$125.00

Gear Patrol Studios

The Mehlville

The James Brand

$60.00

Gear Patrol Studios

Pima Short Classic Tee

Buck Mason

$35.00

Gear Patrol Studios

Hammer Road SL

Weis Manufacturing

Gear Patrol Studios

Joey Penna, Principal at Penna Construction

Gear Patrol Studios

Joey Penna is a principal at Penna Construction, a family-owned and operated company working with insulated concrete forms (ICF) and on specialized concrete projects. Penna works as a next-generation leader building the industry in more efficient and innovative ways. He runs some of the most experienced crews for installing ICF in Southern California, including hillside foundation and pour-in-place. We caught up with Penna to see firsthand how he runs his workplace and pick his brain on how he sees the future of construction evolving.

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Gear Patrol Studios

Q: The Work/Occupation/Safety category is growing +51% YTD in US, and continues to grow globally. What advice would you give to someone looking to get involved in your industry?

Joey Penna: The advice I would give to future businesses looking to grow in the construction industry is to be involved with your employment. The tighter your ship is the better you will thrive through the storm. This industry is very dependent on a team effort to not only complete each project but to make sure everyone is safe and understanding of the consequences when things are done wrong.

Gear Patrol Studios

Gear Patrol Studios

Q: Can you tell us a little more about Penna Construction’s initiative to create environmental concern, economic savings and education in energy conservation?

JP: The goal was always to present innovative, tried and true ideas or “solutions” in the construction world — whether it be sustainability, energy efficiency, fire protection or just improved structural strength for any natural disaster — built at an affordable cost. We believe it’s a standard that should be offered in today’s conventional market and not be for some, but for all.

Gear Patrol Studios

Gear Patrol Studios

Gear Patrol Studios

Q: Tell us more about your work with fireproof homes. With the weather changing constantly and fires being ever-present on the west coast, how are you evolving your business to meet that challenge?

JP: How we’re effectively combating our concerns is by bringing new and innovative materials to homeowners that limit the effects of fire damage, water damage or wind damage in any sort of natural weather occurrence. The way we’re creating a solution is by fiscally making it affordable for any new homeowner to allow the option between building a stick frame home or a concrete home at a competitive cost in addition to technology to reduce our energy footprint.

Q: Where do you see your industry going next? What about Penna Construction specifically?

JP: Where I see our industry going next is automation as well as new sustainable building material products. Given the shortage of labor, building is in need of major assistance to limit the labor involved, and the only way that will happen is innovation in design and installation — possibly using 3D printing or component-based designs. Material shortage due to a lack of resources will bring the industry to alternatives pushing us into renewable and more upcycled building materials for the future.

Excavator Superlite Waterproof Nano Toe Work Boot

Cat Footwear

$160.00

Gear Patrol Studios

Ranger Solid Pocket T-Shirt

Filson

$38.00

Gear Patrol Studios

XPH10Z 18V LXT Lithium-Ion 1/2″ Cordless Hammer Driver Drill

Makita

$105.00

Gear Patrol Studios

Polarized Remmy Unisex Retro Round Sunglasses

Raen

$170.00

Gear Patrol Studios

How Cat Footwear Is Supporting Workers

In response to the changing world of work, Cat Footwear is breaking new ground and evolving with it. Two of the brand’s latest boot releases are just two recent examples. The Invader is a work boot disrupting traditional work boot design. With a steel toe built into a chunky sneaker, it’s a re-mixed version of the brand’s recent best-selling casual shoe, the Intruder, and places an emphasis on incorporating style and function for today’s worker. Its unbeatable traction and engineered comfort is something that will keep you feeling good while on the job.

Then there’s the Excavator Superlite —a super-light, athletic-like work boot, designed with five-point toughness addressing workers’ complaints of heavy boots during long days on their feet. Like the Invader, it takes style into consideration but with an element of toughness.

These new products reflect Cat’s response to the change it sees in the workforce and its dedication to designing products that keep workers protected, comfortable and feeling good long after it’s time to call it a day.

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Season Three’s Popular Hiking Boots Come in Three New Colors

Courtesy

We’re big fans of Season Three’s Ultralight Hiking Boot, a design inspired by classic European heritage hiking footwear. It fuses the comfortability of a sneaker with the practicality of something far more durable while balancing both streetwear and slope aesthetics. Needless to say, it ticks all the right boxes.

And now, before even releasing a second style (yes, this boot is all they sell), they’ve released an updated version of their original boot. Addressing comfort, color and performance, Season Three added an Ortholite insole to the heel, stronger hardware and laces to the upper and a new and improved waterproof membrane to the exterior, making the boot better for long days and rough terrain alike — for longer, too.

Find The Ultralight Hiking Boot in three fall-ready hues: Burnt Orange, Forest Green and Caffé (in order how they appear below). These are available on top of the four colorways they already sell: Black, Grey, Navy and Sand.

Season Three Ultralight Hiking Boot

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Burnt Orange

The Ultralight Hiking Boot

Season Three

Forest Green

The Ultralight Hiking Boot

Season Three

Caffé

The Ultralight Hiking Boot

Season Three

These Hiking Boots Broke My Sneaker Addiction

New York-based brand Season Three may only have one shoe in its catalogue, but it’s already hitting its stride.

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Filling Holes in Your Fall Wardrobe? Adsum’s Newest Drop Has What You Need

Courtesy

“Mainers live in the heart of one of the most wild and beautiful parts of the United States. In some areas there exists the type of remoteness that makes you feel like you’re at the edge of the earth. But there are also bustling towns and cities that produce beer, writing and architecture that we have come to love,” says Pete Macnee, co-founder of Brooklyn-based — and cities in the Northeast-inspired — menswear brand, Adsum. His words read like a love letter — and they kind of are. They serve as a prelude to his brand’s newest collection, a collage of fall-colored sweaters, shirts, pants and accessories he says are all inspired by Maine.

“Our color palette this season includes burnt umbers, dark greens, and earth hues, with the occasional pop of vivid red and orange, mimicking the transition of the leaves in the Northeast,” he continues. The brand’s designs obviously emphasize a particular part of the world, but also strive to better the whole of it by lessening their total textile consumption, using recycled materials whenever possible and purchasing certified wool that promises a better livelihood for the sheep. “Along with paying homage to the natural world, we’re also trying to lessen our impact on it,” Macnee says.

The collection features a few re-releases of popular products Adsum’s long struggled to keep in stock (because they’re so popular) — the Bank Pants, Cable Knit Beanie and Cardigan Sweater — but also a bunch of new items, too, forming what I feel is the brand’s most complete collection to date. Shop our favorites from it below.

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Classic Plaid Worksheet

Rugby Shirt

Heavyweight Pique LS Polo

Merino Crewneck

Freeport Tee

Heavy Cable Beanie

Corduroy Premium BD

Nordic Crewneck Sweater

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The Coolest Jacket in the New James Bond Movie Is Surprisingly Affordable

Courtesy

Ian Fleming’s legendary James Bond character has paved the way for flashy, action-packed movies for decades. And while the world’s largest spy movie franchise has been lauded for its grail-level collection of fast cars, ostentatious watches and slick designer suits, the upcoming sequel of the 007 saga, No Time to Die, features a small-batch denim brand from Los Angeles.

Fans of Rogue Territory instantly recognized the Supply Jacket in the trailer, a best-seller for the brand. It’s a unique take on the classic trucker jacket with adroit details like a welted chest pocket and inconspicuous handwarmer pockets. The film features the jacket in 10oz waxed canvas, a material that’ll pick up plenty of patina through Bond’s many brawls. No Time to Die is out now, and you can order the jacket right now, too, in a bevy of colors and materials, for $295 from the brand or one of its several stockists.

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Featured in the movie

Supply Jacket – Waxed Tan Ridgeline

Rogue Territory

Supply Jacket – Waxed Grey Ridgeline

Rogue Territory

Supply Jacket – Waxed Olive Ridgeline

Rogue Territory

Supply Jacket – Stealth Black

Rogue Territory

Supply Jacket – Rinsed Tinted Weft

Rogue Territory

Supply Jacket – Copper Selvedge Canvas

Rogue Territory

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