How to Make Fall’s Best Dessert, AppleJack Stack Cake

Appalachian Apple Stack Cake is communal cooking at its finest. Originally, each layer was baked at home by individual cooks, likely in cast-iron skillets, then brought together and assembled for church suppers and gatherings. Instead of the spongy cakes we’re used to today, these layers are more like cookies — firmer, so they slowly soften beneath liberal applications of apple butter and cooked apples. This recipe stays mostly true to those principles. Instead of individually baking the layers one skillet at a time, though, use a cake pan to trace a pattern on parchment paper and trim circles of rolled dough to fit. Bake two layers simultaneously (more if you have a convection oven). The edges of the cake layers won’t be as perfectly neat as if you’d baked them in skillets or cake pans, but that’s all right. This is a rustic cake.

Applejack Stack Cake

Serves 12 to 16 people

Ingredients:

For the Filling:
3 pounds assorted apples, peeled and cut into half-inch wedges
1/2 cup brown sugar
1 cup apple cider
1/4 cup applejack, apple brandy, or bourbon
1 1/2 cups apple butter
For the Cake:
5 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/3 cup buttermilk
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
3/4 cup (1½ sticks) unsalted butter
2 cups granulated sugar
1/4 cup molasses
2 large eggs
For the Glaze:
1 cup dark brown sugar
1/4 cup reserved apple cider mixture (from the filling)
1 tablespoon molasses
2 tablespoons unsalted butter

Preparation:

For the Filling:
1. Put the apples, brown sugar, cider, and applejack in a large saucepan; bring to a boil over medium-high heat.
2. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, covered, stirring occasionally, until the apples are tender, about 20 minutes.
3. Drain the apples and reserve 1/4 cup of the liquid. Set aside.

For the Cake:
1. Position the racks in the upper-middle and lower-middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.
2. Coat two baking sheets with cooking spray.
3. In a medium bowl, whisk the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt together.
4. In a large liquid measuring cup, whisk together the buttermilk and vanilla.
5. In large bowl, with an electric mixer at medium-high speed, beat the butter and granulated sugar until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Reduce the speed to medium-low and add the molasses, beating until incorporated. Add the eggs one at a time and mix until incorporated. Gradually add the buttermilk (the mixture will look curdled); add the flour mixture and mix until a soft dough forms — it should look like cookie dough.
6. Remove the dough from the bowl, pat into a round, cover in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 20 minutes.
7. Divide the dough into 6 equal portions, about 8 and 1/2 ounces each. On parchment paper, roll portions of dough into circles about 1/4 inch thick. Use an 8-inch cake pan as a guide to trim into uniform 8-inch circles.
8. Bake one circle on each prepared sheet until golden brown, 10 to 12 minutes, rotating and switching the baking sheets halfway through baking.
9. Transfer the circles to cooling racks and let cool completely. The cakes will harden and set as they cool. Repeat with remaining dough.
10. Re-roll scraps to form a seventh layer.
11. Place the first layer on a serving plate and spread with 1/4 cup of the apple butter.
12. Arrange 1/6 of the cooled cooked apples on top of apple butter and top with another layer of cake. Repeat with the remaining filling and cake layers, ending with a cake layer on top.
13. Wrap the cake tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate until the layers soften, at least 12 hours and up to 2 days.

For the Glaze:
1. In a small saucepan, combine the brown sugar, reserved apple cider mixture, and the molasses.
2. Bring to a low boil over medium/high heat and cook until the sugar is dissolved, about 2 minutes.
3. Remove from the heat and stir in the butter until smooth. Let cool for 5 minutes, then pour the glaze over the top of the cake.
4. Slice and serve, or store the cake, covered, at room temperature for up to 3 days.

Pro Tip: You only need 1/4 cup of the reserved apple cider mixture to make the glaze. That’ll leave about another cup or so of liquid left over, depending on how much water the apples released, which makes for an elegantly simple cocktail just waiting to happen. Pour some of the cooled cooked cider mixture into a highball glass with a dash of bitters, a squeeze of lemon, and a jigger of bourbon and serve over ice.

26 Terms Every Knife-Lover Should Know

Blade, handle — the vocabulary that describes the different parts of a pocket knife are simple… right? The sharp tools may not be as complicated as mechanical watches or automobiles, but there’s more to knives, both folding and fixed, than that. Aficionados will bandy around terms like action and slipjoint, but these aren’t even the most complex or specific words that can be used to describe every part of a pocket knife. For those new to the world of blades, this guide will act as your shortcut from novice to pro.

Action: Refers to how a folding knife opens. A knife’s action can be described in many ways, but it will be either manual or automatic.

Belly: The curved part of the blade used for slicing.

Bevel: The tapered part of the blade that extends from the spine down to the cutting edge.

Butt: The end of a knife’s handle.

Choil: The unsharpened portion of a knife’s cutting edge that’s close to the handle. Some choils are notched.

Clip Point: A common blade shape, the clip point is characterized by a spine with a front section that appears to be clipped off. This seemingly cut-out area can either be straight or concave and results in a fine point.

Drop Point: One of the most common blade shapes, the drop-point is characterized by a convex spine that curves down from the handle to the point. This creates an easily-controlled point and a bigger belly for slicing. Ideal for hunters.

Flipper: A folding knife that features a tab that juts out from the back when closed to allow a user to deploy the blade quickly and easily with the pointer finger.

Framelock or frame lock: A locking mechanism in which a piece of the handle falls into place behind the butt of the blade to hold it open. To close the knife, push the handle out while simultaneously folding down the blade. The frame lock was invented by Chris Reeve and is also known as the Reeve Integral Lock.

Front Flipper: A type of flipper (see above). In this construction, the contact point is situated on the blade’s spine and is more of an exposed corner of tang than a tab.

Guard: Part of the handle designed to prevent the hand from slipping onto the blade. This can be integrated into the handle or a separate component.

Gut hook: A sharpened hook on the spine of a hunting knife designed for field dressing.

Jimping: A notched portion of the spine close to the handle, designed for extra grip.

Linerlock or liner lock: Similar to the frame lock (see above), the liner lock is a common locking mechanism in which a handle insert falls into place behind the butt of a blade to hold it open. To close the knife, push the liner out while simultaneously folding down the blade. The liner lock was invented by Michael Walker, the founder of Spyderco.

Lockback or lock back: A type of folding knife in which the spine acts as a locking mechanism to keep the blade open. When unfolding the knife, the spine clicks into a hidden notch on the tang of the blade. Pressure applied to an exposed piece of the spine disengages the lock, allowing you to close the knife. Lockback constructions are common to classic American pocket knives, like Buck’s 110 Hunter.

Quillon: The part of the guard or handle that extends beyond the tang of the blade to provide additional protection to the hand.

Ricasso: The flat and unsharpened portion of a blade between the handle and the bevel. Not to be confused with choil, ricasso refers to the flat side of a knife, not its edges.

Sheepsfoot: A blade shape characterized by a straight edge and a spine that curves down to meet it at the point. Sheepsfoot blades are designed for slicing while minimizing the potential for accidental piercing with the point. Originally made to trim the hooves of sheep.

Slipjoint: A common type of folding pocket knife that uses a spring to keep the blade in either a closed or open position.

Spear Point: A symmetrical blade shape with a point that’s in-line with the center of the knife. Commonly used for throwing knives.

Spine: The unsharpened “back” or “top” of a knife. The spine is the side opposite the sharp edge. Double-edged knives do not have spines.

Swedge: Also known as a “false edge,” this is a portion of the knife’s spine that is unsharpened but has been ground to give the appearance that it is.

Sweep: See “belly”.

Tang: The portion of the blade that extends into, and is held by, the handle.

Tanto: Inspired by the short swords that were worn by Samurai in feudal Japan, this blade shape replaces a curved belly for an angular edge transition that makes for a much stronger and prominent point.

Wharncliffe: Like a sheepsfoot blade, this shape has a straight edge and a curved spine, but the curve extends gradually from the handle to the tip. The shape is similarly ideal for slicing while minimizing the possibility for an accidental puncture with the tip.

How to Clean All of Your Outdoor Gear

Durability is almost always a trait that outdoor companies use to highlight why their products are more favorable than others. Some go a step further and back them up with lifetime guarantees against defects and abuse. It makes perfect sense; after all, if you spend hundreds of dollars on a pair of hiking boots, a sleeping bag or a jacket, you expect it to handle more than a few trips to the mountains before a stitch comes loose or a seam begins to tear.

Sometimes gear failure is unavoidable. An outer layer may snag on a rock or thorn, a spark from a campfire may land on a nearby tent. These are unfortunate, happenstance situations. Laziness and neglect are not, and they shouldn’t be the reason why a piece of expensive outdoor gear doesn’t last its entire intended lifespan.

We often think of outdoor gear as different from regular clothing; it is, and it isn’t. Certain technical fabrics require special attention in maintenance while others can be treated just like an everyday t-shirt (durable water-repellent coatings, for instance, lose their hydrophobic qualities when covered in dirt and body oils and will revitalize after a quick wash and dry cycle).

Cleaning and repairing outdoor gear can seem intimidating, but it shouldn’t be. In almost every case you can simply follow the instructions on the garment tag. For all the others, you can see our step-by-step guides.

How to Clean and Maintain Your Leather Hiking Boots

With the right care and attention, a pair of well-built leather hiking boots will last for years. Here are the steps to make your current pair your last pair.

How to Wash a Down Sleeping Bag

Washing a down sleeping bag (or a down jacket) is simpler than you might think.

How to Re-Waterproof Your Jacket

Waterproof garments can lose their resilience over time, but that doesn’t mean your rain jacket belongs in the trash. Save yourself a few dollars by learning how to revitalize it with the right tools and…

Need to Re-Wax Your Canvas Jacket? Here’s How to Do It Right

If you’re lucky enough to own one, you need to know how to re-wax it properly — instead of just buying a new one.

How to Repair a Ripped Tent

Breathe new life into your old tent with a few easy steps.

How to Repair a Ripped Rain Jacket

From hole to whole. It’s shockingly easy.

The Ultimate Outdoor Gear Repair Kit

Next time something snaps, rips or leaks, reach not for your credit card, but for a quality gear repair kit.

How to Carve a Turkey Like a Pro Chef

The first mistake you can make when carving a turkey is to attempt the whole ordeal table-side. Bad idea. “Most people don’t have a giant cutting board that they’re going to put on their table,” says Harry Rosenblum, cofounder of The Brooklyn Kitchen. “They have a platter, and that’s a horrible surface to cut on. The thing slides around. You don’t have control. Also, nobody wants to see you stick your hands on the turkey.”

Even in the comfort of the kitchen, however, carving a bird can induce varying levels of performance anxiety among turkey novices — especially if that’s where the crowd has gathered. Just remember now: you’re feeding friends and family, not competing on Chopped.

“Ultimately, as long as the turkey is cooked correctly, it’s not going to taste bad,” Rosenblum says. “There’s very little about carving turkey that could cause you to screw up Thanksgiving. If you got here, you’re basically all set.” So this year, get in the driver’s seat and carve that goddamn turkey. Just don’t do it at the table. Real Thanksgivings don’t need to look like Norman Rockwell paintings.

Step 1: Let Your turkey rest

Like with steak or pork, let your roasted turkey rest at room temperature for 15 to 30 minutes before carving. Use that time to check your potatoes, make gravy, drink more wine — but most of all, to make sure your chef’s knife is sharp and honed. That’s crucial if you want skin on every piece, Rosenblum says.

Step 2: Remove legs and thighs.

“The end goal is to take everything off the carcass,” Rosenblum says. “I like to start with the leg and thigh, following the natural seams of the animal.” To completely sever the thigh from the breast, you’ll need to cut through a knuckle on either side.

Step 3: Sever the leg from the thigh.

Flip the leg and thigh skin-side-down so you can locate the knuckle. Cut straight through it with your knife. “If the bird is fully cooked, the joint will just pop out,” Rosenblum says.

Step 4: Debone the thigh.

Locate the thigh bone and use the tip of your knife to cut around it. “There will be a little bit of meat on the bone,” Rosenblum says. “Save them. They’re great for soup.”

Step 5: Slice the thigh into individual pieces.

Flip the boneless thigh back skin-side-up, and slice into individual half-inch pieces. “Always slice against the grain of the muscle,” Rosenblum says.

Step 6: Cut down the center of the breast.

“The body comes up into a point,” says Rosenblum. That’s the breastbone. “Once you cut down either side, you’ll see the meat will start to come away from the carcass.” Cut through the ball joint that connects the breast and wing to the carcass.

Step 7: Remove the wing.

Before you slice the breast meat, remove the wing by locating the connective ball joint and removing it from the breast. You want a boneless piece of breast meat.

Step 8: lice the breast meat.

Follow the same rule of thumb applied to the thigh: with the skin-side-up, and going against the grain, slice the breast meat into half-inch pieces.

Step 9: Plate the turkey.

“You can go as rustic or refined as you want,” Rosenblum says. “I always try to put the turkey back together on the plate, just without the bones.” This makes it easy for people to identify and choose the kind of meat they want.

23 Terms Every Knife-Lover Should Know

Blade, handle — the vocabulary that describes the different parts of a pocket knife are simple… right? The sharp tools may not be as complicated as mechanical watches or automobiles, but there’s more to knives, both folding and fixed, than that. Aficionados will bandy around terms like action and slipjoint, but these aren’t even the most complex or specific words that can be used to describe every part of a pocket knife. For those new to the world of blades, this guide will act as your shortcut from novice to pro.

Action: Refers to how a folding knife opens. A knife’s action can be described in many ways, but it will be either manual or automatic.

Belly: The curved part of the blade used for slicing.

Bevel: The tapered part of the blade that extends from the spine down to the cutting edge.

Butt: The end of a knife’s handle.

Choil: The unsharpened portion of a knife’s cutting edge that’s close to the handle. Some choils are notched.

Clip Point: A common blade shape, the clip point is characterized by a spine with a front section that appears to be clipped off. This seemingly cut-out area can either be straight or concave and results in a fine point.

Drop Point: One of the most common blade shapes, the drop-point is characterized by a convex spine that curves down from the handle to the point. This creates an easily-controlled point and a bigger belly for slicing. Ideal for hunters.

Flipper: A folding knife that features a tab that juts out from the back when closed to allow a user to deploy the blade quickly and easily with the pointer finger.

Front Flipper: A type of flipper (see above). In this construction, the contact point is situated on the blade’s spine and is more of an exposed corner of tang than a tab.

Guard: Part of the handle designed to prevent the hand from slipping onto the blade. This can be integrated into the handle or a separate component.

Gut hook: A sharpened hook on the spine of a hunting knife designed for field dressing.

Jimping: A notched portion of the spine close to the handle, designed for extra grip.

Quillon: The part of the guard or handle that extends beyond the tang of the blade to provide additional protection to the hand.

Ricasso: The flat and unsharpened portion of a blade between the handle and the bevel. Not to be confused with choil, ricasso refers to the flat side of a knife, not its edges.

Sheepsfoot: A blade shape characterized by a straight edge and a spine that curves down to meet it at the point. Sheepsfoot blades are designed for slicing while minimizing the potential for accidental piercing with the point. Originally made to trim the hooves of sheep.

Slipjoint: A common type of folding pocket knife that uses a spring to keep the blade in either a closed or open position.

Spear Point: A symmetrical blade shape with a point that’s in-line with the center of the knife. Commonly used for throwing knives.

Spine: The unsharpened “back” or “top” of a knife. The spine is the side opposite the sharp edge. Double-edged knives do not have spines.

Swedge: Also known as a “false edge,” this is a portion of the knife’s spine that is unsharpened but has been ground to give the appearance that it is.

Sweep: See “belly”.

Tang: The portion of the blade that extends into, and is held by, the handle.

Tanto: Inspired by the short swords that were worn by Samurai in feudal Japan, this blade shape replaces a curved belly for an angular edge transition that makes for a much stronger and prominent point.

Wharncliffe: Like a sheepsfoot blade, this shape has a straight edge and a curved spine, but the curve extends gradually from the handle to the tip. The shape is similarly ideal for slicing while minimizing the possibility for an accidental puncture with the tip.