Rolex made headlines in 2023 when the brand acquired Bucherer, which at the time was the world’s largest retailer of Rolex watches. The move, coupled with the subsequent launch of Rolex’s certified pre-owned program, signaled that the brand was looking to exert more control and influence over its market.
But there was another aspect of Rolex’s Bucherer acquisition that was a bit more mysterious: luxury watch brand Carl F. Bucherer was included in the sale.
It was initially unclear what plans Rolex had for CFB, though the Crown claimed at the time of the sale that its new sub-brand would continue to operate independently. Still, the idea of Rolex building a portfolio of brands with CFB alongside Tudor was tantalizing. I even predicted that Rolex’s ownership would lead to widespread renewed interest in the 137-year-old brand.
But it looks like I was (very) wrong, as new reporting indicates that Rolex has decided to shut down Carl F. Bucherer entirely.
So long, Carl?
Carl F. Bucherer was founded in 1888. That means the brand is not only older than Tudor but also Rolex, which has only been around since 1905. As such, CFB was easily the oldest brand under The Crown’s corporate umbrella.
The brand manufactures its own movements and uses some unique proprietary technologies. Most notable is its peripheral rotor system which rotates around the perimeter of the movement on a ball bearing, thus eliminating the need for the rotor to attach to a bridge or mainplate.