If You Think Your Vegan Shoes Are Saving the Planet, You’re Wrong

detail of shoes made with vegetable fibers during the vegan

Stefano GuidiGetty Images

I have beef with vegan shoes.

Let me be clear, though — I think vegans are heroes. Their personal choice not to consume animal products is literally saving the world. Veganism is hard, too. I know this because after watching the popular (though rightly criticized) documentary The Game Changers, which extols the benefits of a vegan diet for athletic performance, I gave it a shot for a few weeks. I wanted to see how a short-term switch would make me feel, and how difficult it would be (good, difficult, though not as much as I’d imagined). So no, my problem is not with vegans — it’s with vegan shoes.

How can a shoe be vegan anyway? Simply put, it has to be completely free of animal products. That includes leather, wool and fur, as well as some glues that have animal-based ingredients in them (typically, it’s collagen). Some definitions go further, insisting that any materials developed with animal testing must be excluded too.

Vegan shoes are becoming increasingly easier to find, too. The online retailer Zappos has a vegan filter that turns up hundreds of options from brands like OluKai, Saucony, Merrell, Dr. Martens and more. Adidas recently made waves when it revealed a vegan version of its popular Stan Smith shoe, the first iteration of which was a collaboration with Stella McCartney.

If lessening animal cruelty is the primary motivation behind your veganism, these shoes achieve that goal. But if general sustainability is the aim — and nearly every vegan shoe comes with a message that it’s greener and better for the environment — the situation is messier.

The problem is that faux leather and fur are often made of synthetic, petroleum-based materials like polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and polyurethane (PU). Essentially, they’re plastic. Technically, the cheap plastic-and-foam flip flops that wash up on beaches around the world are “vegan.” Plus, in pursuing a degree of similarity that’ll make people want to wear these shoes, companies often apply harmful chemicals that make them look and bend and wear just like the real deal.

OluKai is one brand that acknowledges the issue, though many don’t. In a blog post on its site explaining vegan shoes, the brand notes: “It’s important to remember that animal-free shoes are not always more ‘environmentally friendly’ by default … It is a lengthy and contentious debate as to whether leather production or synthetic production is worse for the environment.” It does note too, however, that vegan shoes are “generally considered to leave a smaller carbon footprint.” Most companies making vegan shoes are content to greenwash over such nuance.

This conundrum calls to mind the recent implementation of plastic straw bans. I watched cafes react to it in New York City, some of them opting for paper replacements though many went for sippy lids made of plastic. Some are recyclable, supposedly, though good luck finding a recycling bin in Manhattan.

Some cafes and cities were better equipped for the ban than New York, and some companies make vegan alternatives more responsibly than others. Leather provides the best examples: an Italian company called Frumat makes it partially out of apples, while Piñatex is leather made of pineapple leaves. Mushroom-based leather is also a thing (and both Adidas and Stella McCartney will be its earliest adopters). It’s promising stuff, but none of these faux leathers are being produced at a scale approaching that of the petroleum-based alternatives.

Bolt Threads’ mushroom-based “leather.”

Bolt Threads

Meanwhile, is genuine leather really so bad? Again, advocates for animal rights will answer yes. From a sustainability perspective, the issue lies in the tanning process, which produces wastewater sludge with high concentrations of harmful chemicals like chromium and glutaraldehyde. Not only is it bad for the environment, but it’s dangerous for those working with it.

But leather production is getting eco-friendlier too. It’s a byproduct of the meat industry, for starters, and beef farmers aren’t going to stop raising beef cows simply because they can’t sell their skins (unless way more people adopt vegan diets, that is). Vegetable tanning uses organic material instead of chromium to preserve the skins, and some companies like Ecco are developing dry tanning methods that eliminate water waste. There’s even a consortium of brands, retailers and producers that aims to hold the industry to a set of environmental protocols.

The best example of sustainably produced leather footwear comes, unsurprisingly, from Patagonia. In late 2020, the company released the Wild Idea Work Boot, made of bison leather with a Goodyear welt so the outsole can be replaced years into its life. The hides come from the same animals that it harvests to make its buffalo jerky — they are raised in a manner that restores the grasslands and promotes carbon sequestration. Previously unused, the hides are tanned with olive tree leaves. What’s more, Patagonia is only making as many boots as it has enough leather for (so good luck getting a pair).

Patagonia’s Wild Idea workboot.

Patagonia

It is true that Patagonia’s bison boot model doesn’t scale, but neither does the mushroom leather option (at least, not yet). Sustainability is complicated, and it can feel paralyzing when it seems like every option is bad.

There is hope, though — both vegan and non-vegan footwear is getting more sustainable. And, recently, Adidas and Allbirds announced that they are putting competition aside to create a performance shoe with the smallest carbon footprint ever. Given that the latter brand’s signature ingredient is wool, chances are it won’t be vegan.

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<a class="clickable-image-link clickable-image-embed-item clickable-image-product-link" href="https://go.skimresources.com?id=31959X896062&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.wayfair.com%2Foutdoor%2Fpdp%2Fworld-menagerie-tessio-4-piece-rattan-sofa-seating-group-with-cushions-w000606316.html&xcust=deal-gallery" target="_blank" data-vars-ga-product-sem3-brand="World Menagerie" data-vars-ga-product-sem3-category="" data-vars-ga-product-brand="World Menagerie" data-desturl="https://go.skimresources.com?id=31959X896062&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.wayfair.com%2Foutdoor%2Fpdp%2Fworld-menagerie-tessio-4-piece-rattan-sofa-seating-group-with-cushions-w000606316.html&xcust=deal-gallery" data-id="" data-order="15" data-vars-ga-product-price="$238.00" data-vars-ga-product-id="fafecb30-f90c-4804-93c6-32e1e5052e31" data-vars-ga-media-role="" data-vars-ga-product-sem3-id="" data-vars-ga-outbound-link="https://go.skimresources.com?id=31959X896062&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.wayfair.com%2Foutdoor%2Fpdp%2Fworld-menagerie-tessio-4-piece-rattan-sofa-seating-group-with-cushions-w000606316.html&xcust=deal-gallery" aria-label="$238 ~~$400~~ World Menagerie Tessio 4-Piece Rattan Seating Group” data-affiliate=”true”>

World Menagerie Tessio 4-Piece Rattan Seating Group

World Menagerie

$162 OFF (41%)

As we inch closer to cookout season, each day brings another opportunity to bolster your outdoor seating setup. This rattan group is affordable, has seating for four people and has a coffee table perfect for drinks and hot dogs.

READ ABOUT THE BEST PATIO FURNITURE DEALS

<a class="clickable-image-link clickable-image-embed-item clickable-image-product-link" href="https://go.skimresources.com?id=31959X896062&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.walmart.com%2Fip%2FDyson-TP02-Pure-Cool-Link-Connected-Tower-Air-Purifier-Fan-Refurbished%2F200787524&xcust=deal-gallery" target="_blank" data-vars-ga-product-sem3-brand="Dyson" data-vars-ga-product-sem3-category="" data-vars-ga-product-brand="Dyson" data-desturl="https://go.skimresources.com?id=31959X896062&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.walmart.com%2Fip%2FDyson-TP02-Pure-Cool-Link-Connected-Tower-Air-Purifier-Fan-Refurbished%2F200787524&xcust=deal-gallery" data-id="" data-order="16" data-vars-ga-product-price="$319.99" data-vars-ga-product-id="d58c23f6-79d0-4dd2-af23-a9df93de7cbb" data-vars-ga-media-role="" data-vars-ga-product-sem3-id="" data-vars-ga-outbound-link="https://go.skimresources.com?id=31959X896062&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.walmart.com%2Fip%2FDyson-TP02-Pure-Cool-Link-Connected-Tower-Air-Purifier-Fan-Refurbished%2F200787524&xcust=deal-gallery" aria-label="$200 ~~$300~~ Dyson Pure Cool Link Connected Tower Air Purifier Fan — Refurbished” data-affiliate=”true”>

Dyson Pure Cool Link Connected Tower Air Purifier Fan — Refurbished

Dyson skimresources.com

$100 OFF (33%)

Dyson makes some of the smartest home appliances around, including its exceptional fans and air purifiers. This one has both — a combo that will come in handy for allergy season and as temperatures warm this spring.

READ MORE ABOUT REFURBISHED DYSON PRODUCTS

Filson Ridgeway Fleece Jacket

Filson avantlink.com

$32 OFF (25%)

When Filson is off duty and out of the wild, it still dreams up some of the best gear for everyday wear. This fleece has a classy sweater look and is backed by Polartec Thermal Pro to wick moisture and keep you warm.

READ ABOUT THE BEST SWEATERS

<a class="clickable-image-link clickable-image-embed-item clickable-image-product-link" href="https://go.skimresources.com?id=31959X896062&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fshop.lululemon.com%2Fp%2Fmens-polos%2FEvolution-Polo%2F_%2Fprod8270012%3FCID%3DPHG_con%26clickref%3D1100leYJ7uu6%26color%3D26950&xcust=deal-gallery" target="_blank" data-vars-ga-product-sem3-brand="lululemon" data-vars-ga-product-sem3-category="" data-vars-ga-product-brand="lululemon" data-desturl="https://go.skimresources.com?id=31959X896062&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fshop.lululemon.com%2Fp%2Fmens-polos%2FEvolution-Polo%2F_%2Fprod8270012%3FCID%3DPHG_con%26clickref%3D1100leYJ7uu6%26color%3D26950&xcust=deal-gallery" data-id="" data-order="18" data-vars-ga-product-price="$39.00" data-vars-ga-product-id="abfc41a3-d3d7-41d2-ba52-dd4c1a7a042c" data-vars-ga-media-role="" data-vars-ga-product-sem3-id="" data-vars-ga-outbound-link="https://go.skimresources.com?id=31959X896062&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fshop.lululemon.com%2Fp%2Fmens-polos%2FEvolution-Polo%2F_%2Fprod8270012%3FCID%3DPHG_con%26clickref%3D1100leYJ7uu6%26color%3D26950&xcust=deal-gallery" aria-label="$59 ~~$88~~ Lululemon Evolution Polo” data-affiliate=”true”>

Lululemon Evolution Polo

lululemon skimresources.com

$29 OFF (33%)

We just found your new favorite golf and tennis polo. Lululemon makes some of the comfiest sweat-wicking, technical clothing around — and it looks darn good too.

READ ABOUT LULULEMON MASKS

<a class="clickable-image-link clickable-image-embed-item clickable-image-product-link" href="https://go.skimresources.com?id=31959X896062&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.nordstromrack.com%2Fs%2Fadidas-stan-smith-sneaker%2Fn3340991%3Fcolor%3DFTWWHT%252FFTW&xcust=deal-gallery" target="_blank" data-vars-ga-product-sem3-brand="adidas" data-vars-ga-product-sem3-category="" data-vars-ga-product-brand="adidas" data-desturl="https://go.skimresources.com?id=31959X896062&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.nordstromrack.com%2Fs%2Fadidas-stan-smith-sneaker%2Fn3340991%3Fcolor%3DFTWWHT%252FFTW&xcust=deal-gallery" data-id="" data-order="19" data-vars-ga-product-price="$54.97" data-vars-ga-product-id="1b2611ff-f375-4141-a857-89c1d47de270" data-vars-ga-media-role="" data-vars-ga-product-sem3-id="" data-vars-ga-outbound-link="https://go.skimresources.com?id=31959X896062&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.nordstromrack.com%2Fs%2Fadidas-stan-smith-sneaker%2Fn3340991%3Fcolor%3DFTWWHT%252FFTW&xcust=deal-gallery" aria-label="$55 ~~$80~~ Adidas Stan Smith Sneaker” data-affiliate=”true”>

Adidas Stan Smith Sneaker

adidas skimresources.com

$25 OFF (31%)

Loved by sneakerheads and the wider population for its simple, straightforward look and ubiquity to complement any fit. You can never go wrong with a pair of Stan Smiths.

READ ABOUT THE LATEST STYLE RELEASES WE LOVE

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Apple AirPods Pro

Apple amazon.com

$50 OFF (20%)

Apple’s premium AirPods have been hovering around $200 for a while now, which is a great deal. Competition is now fierce in this headphone category, but the quick pairing and native integration with Apple devices still makes the AirPods Pro tough to beat.

READ OUR REVIEW OF AIRPODS PRO

<a class="clickable-image-link clickable-image-embed-item clickable-image-product-link" href="https://go.skimresources.com?id=31959X896062&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fhuckberry.com%2Fstore%2Fjaybird%2Fcategory%2Fp%2F60006-vista-earthproof-wireless-headphones&xcust=deal-gallery" target="_blank" data-vars-ga-product-sem3-brand="Jaybird" data-vars-ga-product-sem3-category="" data-vars-ga-product-brand="Jaybird" data-desturl="https://go.skimresources.com?id=31959X896062&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fhuckberry.com%2Fstore%2Fjaybird%2Fcategory%2Fp%2F60006-vista-earthproof-wireless-headphones&xcust=deal-gallery" data-id="" data-order="21" data-vars-ga-product-price="$0.00" data-vars-ga-product-id="60fd1d81-39b4-47c1-bb7c-97b632e4c995" data-vars-ga-media-role="" data-vars-ga-product-sem3-id="" data-vars-ga-outbound-link="https://go.skimresources.com?id=31959X896062&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fhuckberry.com%2Fstore%2Fjaybird%2Fcategory%2Fp%2F60006-vista-earthproof-wireless-headphones&xcust=deal-gallery" aria-label="$150 ~~$180~~ Jaybird Vista Earthproof Wireless Headphones” data-affiliate=”true”>

Jaybird Vista Earthproof Wireless Headphones

Jaybird skimresources.com

$30 OFF (17%)

These water- and sweat-proof earbuds are our pick for the best workout earbuds. They have 6-hour battery life and are MIL-STD 810G certified, which means they have passed repeated shock, vibrations, drop, and crush tests.

READ ABOUT THE BEST WIRELESS EARBUDS

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