Among all the high-end fare released for the Geneva Watch Days trade show, it’s refreshing to see a rugged, vibrantly blue dive watch from one of our favorite tool watch makers, Doxa. The new Sub 600T Pacific even feels fresh among the brand’s own lineup, as it’s a marked departure from Doxa’s established and recognized modern watches in multiple ways. TL;DR? It looks dope, especially if you like an ’80s dive watch, and one can only hope that it’s the beginning of a full collection.
For now, this first version is being produced as a limited edition in partnership with the Australian watch media site Time+Tide. If you know Doxa, you know the brand’s basic look: it was established in the 1960s and ’70s with a Turtle-like tonneau case shape and a distinctive no-decompression limit bezel featuring two rings — one for depth and one for minutes. The familiar bezel design, produced with a ceramic insert, maintains Doxa DNA in the new Sub 600T Pacific, but the angular case and 4 o’clock crown result in a very different look than what modern brand fans expect.
This type of case seems to be making a minor comeback as watchmakers search for new sources of vintage inspiration — and land on the ’80s. Note the sharp lines, particularly around the lugs, shared by the likes of the Rolex Oysterquartz and Tissot’s also recently revived PRX, for example. For the Sub 600T, the case’s somewhat chunky angles and 14.15mm thickness (necessitated by its 600m water resistance) are offset by a reasonable 40mm width and lightweight titanium construction (as denoted by the “T” in its name).
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The 1980s saw Doxa under new management, and watches from the era don’t have the direct connection to the history-making Doxas, the Jaques Cousteau association or claim to being the first professional-level diving watch generally available to the public. They do, however, have a more general connection to that history, a genuinely rugged and functional build — and a unique look. Inside, they’re powered by the popular and reliable Sellita SW200 automatic Swiss movement.
Another notable departure for the brand is introducing a new color, as the brand has a very specific and consistent pallet. The new shade of blue is called Pacific, as each of the brand’s established colors has a name, and it hints at future products in two ways: First is a non-limited collection of Sub 600T watches in other colors, and second is the possibility of other existing Doxa models in Pacific.
The Doxa Sub 600T Pacific is limited to only 200 examples and is available to order now directly from Doxa with delivery expected in mid-October 2021. Other colors might be coming, but you’ll want to act fast for this cool Pacific version on its matching rubber strap for $1,990.
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